Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
They’re hanging from the gutters over the patio. The house has six-foot soffits back there and nearly three feet elsewhere, plus the roofers installed rubber sheets along the walls, so we’re not worried about leaks…
Having repaired these once before, I wasn’t too surprised when this happened:
Eyeglasses – broken nose bridge wire
Evidently the “titanium” has fatigued, because the repair lasted barely nine months.
Rather than try to fix them again, I sent my new prescriptions halfway around the planet and, a bit under two weeks later, had three glasses: normal, computer, and sun. This time, I went with 38 mm tall lenses, a heavier nose bridge, and traditional aviator sunglasses.
For the record, the regular prescription was:
Tweaking that by +0.75 diopter on the sphere puts my far point focus on the monitors across the desk and backing -0.75 diopter from the adder keeps the same near-point reading correction:
Computer prescription – 2014-12
They’re all no-line progressive bifocals made from 1.57 high-index plastic with anti-reflection coating, for a grand total of $135 delivered.
Our Larval Engineer volunteered to convert the lens from a defunct magnifying desk lamp into a hand-held magnifier; there’s more to that story than is relevant here. I bulldozed her into making a solid model of the lens before starting on the hand-holdable design, thus providing a Thing to contemplate while working out the holder details.
That justified excavating a spherometer from the heap to determine the radius of curvature for the lens:
Student Sphereometer on lens
You must know either the average radius / diameter of the pins or the average pin-to-pin distance. We used a quick-and-dirty measurement for the radius, but after things settled down, I used a slightly more rigorous approach. Spotting the pins on carbon paper (!) produced these numbers:
Sphereometer Pin Radii
The vertical scale has hard-metric divisions: 1 mm on the post and 0.01 on the dial. You’d therefore expect the pins to be a hard metric distance apart, but the 25.28 mm average radius suggests a crappy hard-inch layout. It was, of course, a long-ago surplus find without provenance.
The 43.91 mm average pin-to-pin distance works out to a 50.7 mm bolt circle diameter = 25.35 mm radius, which is kinda-sorta close to the 25.28 mm average radius. I suppose averaging the averages would slightly improve things, but …
The vertical distance for the lens in question was 0.90 mm, at least for our purposes. That’s the sagitta, which sounds cool enough to justify this whole exercise right there. It’s 100 mm in diameter and the ground edge is 2.8 mm thick, although the latter is subject to some debate.
Using the BCD, the chord equation applies:
Height m = 0.90 mm
Base c = 50.7 mm
Lens radius r = (m2 + c2/4) / 2m = 357.46 mm
Using the pin-to-pin distance, the spherometer equation applies:
Pin-to-pin a = 43.91 mm
Sagitta h = 0.90 mm
Lens radius R = (h/2) + (a2 / 6h) = 357.50 mm
Close enough, methinks.
Solving the chord equation for the total height of each convex side above the edge:
Base c = 100 mm
Lens radius r = 357.5 mm
Height m = r – sqrt(r2 -c2/4) = 3.5 mm
So the whole lens should be 2 · 3.5 + 2.8 = 9.8 mm thick. It’s actually 10.15 mm, which says they were probably trying for 10.0 mm and I’m measuring the edge thickness wrong.
She submitted to all this nonsense with good grace and cooked up an OpenSCAD model that prints the “lens” in two halves:
Printed Lens – halves on platform
Alas, those thin flanges have too little area on the platform to resist the contraction of the plastic above, so they didn’t fit together very well at all:
Printed Lens – base distortion
We figured a large brim would solve that problem, but then it was time for her to return to the hot, fast core of college life…
So we took an out-and-back walk across the Walkway Over the Hudson, after which I spotted this amusing sight:
Parking Meter – empty battery box
The horrible color balance comes from using a preset tuned for the M2’s new LED lights, rather than letting the camera figure things out on its own, then fighting it down after cropping.
Anyhow, we did a bit over two miles of walking with outdoor temperature just over freezing. The camera lives in the left cargo pocket of my pants and the spare NB-5L battery in the camera case faces outward. Neither battery would power the camera at ambient temperature; evidently, being that cold reduced their output voltage below the level that the camera would accept.
With a cold battery, the camera grunted, displayed a message about replacing the battery, and promptly shut itself off. Warming one of the batteries boosted its terminal voltage enough to take the picture, which accounts for not getting the proper color balance: I was fully occupied just getting the camera working.
Back home and warmed up, the camera said both batteries were fully charged. They came from the BNF27 lot that produced low terminal voltages, so I’ll reserve them for warmer weather and use the BNI13 lot during the next few months.