The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Makergear M2: Heated Build Platform Insulation

    Although I don’t have any data to support the idea, it seems that there’s far too much heat loss from the bottom of the HBP. Admittedly, air is a great insulator, so most of the energy should go into the aluminum plate, but having air blow over the bottom can’t be a Good Thing. There’s a very thin space between the bottom of the silicone heater element and the black aluminum spider supporting the corners, so I added a thin cardboard sheet:

    HBP insulation - cardboard base
    HBP insulation – cardboard base

    The curiously shaped cutout clears the heater power wires, the thermistor in its lug, and the thermistor wires.

    Atop that goes a pair of very thin cotton cloth sheets (again, not much to focus on, so it’s a bit blurry):

    HBP insulation - cotton sheet
    HBP insulation – cotton sheet

    And then the plate fits atop the corner support pads as usual. I suppose the heater duty cycle should be lower at any given temperature, but I don’t have any records to compare against.

  • Makergear M2: HBP Connector Stabilization

    Given my experience with the TOM’s platform heater connector, I was bothered by having the M2’s heated build platform connection flex as the Y stage travels back and forth. After replacing the Z axis motor, I added a strut to the Y axis stage to stabilize the HBP connector.

    This overview shows the aluminum strut sticking out to the rear (Y+) end of the platform support spider:

    HBP connector support strut - overview
    HBP connector support strut – overview

    A closeup shows a quartet of 4-40 holes drilled and tapped along the strut’s midline:

    HBP connector support strut - mounting detail
    HBP connector support strut – mounting detail

    Admittedly, that’s a bit of a kludge, but I didn’t want to drill holes in that nice steel bracket… particularly since I’d have to dismantle the whole stage to get to it. The four screws wedge the strut firmly in position and have jam nuts on the bottom so they don’t loosen.

    I extracted more wire from the braided sheath and moved the cable a bit further out at the cable tie holding it to the Y axis stage, then cable-tied the HBP connector to the strut.

    With the stage all the way to the rear:

    HBP connector support strut - at Y min
    HBP connector support strut – at Y min

    And to the front:

    HBP connector support strut - at Y max
    HBP connector support strut – at Y max

    The wires may break, but now the HBP connector and heating pad joints should survive!

  • Makergear M2: Grippier Z-min Switch Mount

    The printed bracket for the M2’s Z axis home switch doesn’t get a good grip on the oiled steel rod, so it can slide around just a little bit when nudged. That doesn’t happen often, but when it does, all your careful alignment Goes Away.

    A single wrap of silicone tape solves that problem:

    Z min switch on silicone tape
    Z min switch on silicone tape

    While I was in there, I replaced the socket-head cap screw I’d been using with a longer hex bolt and swapped the nylock nut for a plain nut that’s easier to adjust. I should file the raised markings off the top of the bolt head so it presents a smooth surface to the switch.

    That was easy…

  • HP ScanJet 3970 Lid Hinge Re-Repair

    As expected, that repair didn’t last very long at all; one hinge fractured along the same line as before. This time, however, we had a visit already in-plan, so I brought along my solvents and clamps.

    Perhaps you wondered how I could have been so remiss as to not brace those thin white flanges. One picture of the unbroken hinge in the “lid down” position is worth a thousand words:

    HP 3970 Scanjet - intact hinge
    HP 3970 Scanjet – intact hinge

    Need more? Here’s another thousand words from the other side:

    HP 3970 Scanjet - intact hinge pivot
    HP 3970 Scanjet – intact hinge pivot

    As the lid opens, the gray tab pivots toward the edge of the lid until it’s nearly parallel, at which point all of the force tries to yank those two flanges apart and then crack the tiny solid part at the pivot pin.

    Eventually, it succeeds. This is a view of the scanner base with the gray tab inserted in its slot, with the broken hinge in the “lid up” position:

    HP 3970 Scanjet - broken hinge pivot
    HP 3970 Scanjet – broken hinge pivot

    Clever design, no?

    I was unable to extract the broken fragment from the gray tab (actually, unwilling to apply more force, as I cracked part of the gray ring around the hinge pin), so this became an in situ repair. Once again, I applied solvent glue and squished the pieces together:

    HP 3970 Scanjet - glued hinge
    HP 3970 Scanjet – glued hinge

    And clamped it while we ate lunch:

    HP 3970 Scanjet - hinge clamping
    HP 3970 Scanjet – hinge clamping

    The brass rod applies the clamping force to the fractured part of the hinge through the pivot point. This isn’t the most stable clamp arrangement you’ve ever seen, but it worked well enough.

    I pushed the scanner back half a foot, so the lid now clunks against the wall just before the hinges reach their limit. Maybe they’ll survive until the next visit…

  • Makergear M2: Better Z Axis Motor Calculations

    The original M2 Z axis motor required extremely low acceleration and speed settings, because it produced barely enough torque to lift the weight of the Z stage + HBP + glass platform. The new motor can produce about twice as much torque, so it should perform much better: all of the additional torque can go to accelerating that weight.

    I weighed all the bits and pieces while I had the M2 apart, although I forgot to weigh the motor + leadscrew separately:

    • 2.2 kg – Z stage including Z motor
    • 290 g – old Z motor + leadscrew + nut
    • 220 g – motor similar to new motor minus leadscrew
    • 963 g – HBP + glass + clips

    So, in round numbers, the whole assembly weighs about 3 kg = 29 N = 6.6 pounds. That’s surprisingly close to my original guesstimate of 3 kg = 7 pounds; I round in the worse direction when there’s only one significant figure.

    With the new motor in place, the rods & leadscrew lubed up, and the platform in place, it’s not quite heavy enough to fall under its own weight; it would just barely fall with the old motor. The slightest touch moves it along, though, which means that the angle of friction is just over the lead angle.

    The thread form is 30° trapezoidal, so the pitch diameter for an 8 mm OD thread is about PD = 7.2 mm. For an 8 mm lead thread, the lead angle is 19.5° = arctan(8 mm / π · 7.2 mm). Wikipedia’s entry on leadscrews reports the coefficient of friction for oily steel on bronze is between 0.1 and 0.16 for a buttress thread. This thread is trapezoidal, the nut isn’t worn in, the alignment’s probably off a bit, and so forth and so on; so let’s say the angle of friction is 20° and the coefficient of friction is 0.35.

    If the new motor can produce, let’s suppose, 500 mN·m of torque, then the upward force on the stage will be:

    (2 T) / (PD tan(lead angle + friction angle)) = 1 N·m / (7.2 mm x 0.84) = 165 N

    In the ideal world of physics, applying 165 N to a 3 kg stage should accelerate it at 55 m/s2 = 55000 mm/s2 = 5 G.I don’t believe that for a moment, either, particularly because stepper motor torque drops off dramatically at higher speeds.

    However, that suggests that, at a rational acceleration, the maximum stepper motor speed could very well be limited by the Marlin 40 kHz step frequency limit to 100 mm/s = (40000 step/s) / (400 step/mm) = 6000 mm/min.

    Given that I’m running the XY motors at 5000 mm/s2, I set the Z acceleration to 5000 mm/s2 and discovered that it would stall on the way to 100 mm/s. Backing off to 2000 mm/s2 worked better, so I tweaked the Marlin configuration thusly:

    #define HOMING_FEEDRATE {75*60, 75*60, 30*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)
    
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {450, 450, 100, 94}    // (mm/sec)
    #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {5000,5000,2000,10000}
    

    Now that’s more like it…

  • Monthly Science: New Silica Gel

    The last two months of temperature and humidity data from inside the basement safe indicate that Spring is becoming Summer down there:

    Basement Safe - Temp Humid - 2013-06-30
    Basement Safe – Temp Humid – 2013-06-30

    The new bag of new silica gel beads once again dropped the humidity below the Hobo datalogger’s 15% threshold, so I don’t know the actual humidity. The indicator cards packed inside the silica gel buckets report they’re below 10%; that’s dry enough for me.

    However, the bag now weighs 539 g, so it’s pulled 31 g of water out of the air over the last month. The old gel accumulated 63 g over five winter months, so there’s much more water in the air these days! The safe still has a tape seal around the door gap; perhaps a better gasket is in order.

    The glitch at the end of May shows the datalogger coming upstairs on a hot, humid day, going back into the safe with the old silica gel tray, then, after a short pause for some Quality Shop Time, snuggling up next to the new bag. The mid-month glitch shows a peek inside the safe…

  • Coaxial Power Plug Tip: Extraction Thereof

    Another coaxial power plug lost its tip inside a lithium ion battery pack used with the APRS + Voice circuitry on our bikes, as I could barely see at the bottom of the socket:

    LiIon Pack - output socket
    LiIon Pack – output socket

    Rather than cutting the pack apart, I buttered up the end of an intact plug with some ABS solvent glue (a hellish homebrew mixture of acetone and MEK), rammed it into the socket, and held it in place for a minute:

    LiIon Pack - undamaged plug insertion
    LiIon Pack – undamaged plug insertion

    The tip emerged on the first try:

    LiIon Pack - rescued plug tip joined
    LiIon Pack – rescued plug tip joined

    Even better, it cracked off the plug without too much effort:

    LiIon Pack - rescued plug tip separated
    LiIon Pack – rescued plug tip separated

    More solvent glue and a few hours of clamping worked fine:

    LiIon Pack - clamped plug tip
    LiIon Pack – clamped plug tip

    That cable is now back in service.