The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Silicone Caulk + Desiccant = Win!

    After doing the second batch of quilting pin caps, I dropped the newly opened silicone caulk tube into a jar with some desiccant, which worked wonderfully well. Unlike the usual situation where the caulk under the cap hardens into a plug after a few weeks, the tube emerged in perfect condition. In fact, even the caulk in the middle of the conical nozzle was in good shape, with just a small cured plug on either end; it had been sitting inside a cloth wrap with no sealing at all.

    Here’s what it looked like after finishing the last of the most recent caps:

    Silicone caulk tube with silica gel
    Silicone caulk tube with silica gel

    The indicator card says the humidity remains under 10%, low enough to keep the caulk happy and uncured. Well worth the nuisance of having a big jar on the top shelf instead of a little tube next to the epoxy.

    Although I thought the desiccant was silica gel, it’s most likely one of the clay or calcium desiccants.

  • Kenmore 158: AC Motor Running on DC!

    The sewing machine had a three-contact plug / terminal block that joins all the wiring:

    Kenmore 158 - terminal block
    Kenmore 158 – terminal block

    For completeness, the matching socket (not shown) joins two cords:

    • AC line cord (two wire, not polarized, no ground)
    • Foot pedal

    Extract the motor wiring from that block and connect it to a 50 V / 3 A bench supply, with the positive lead to the marked wire conductor:

    Kenmore 158 AC motor - DC power
    Kenmore 158 AC motor – DC power

    Cranking the voltage upward from zero:

    Kenmore Model 158 AC Motor on DC - RPM vs V
    Kenmore Model 158 AC Motor on DC – RPM vs V

    So that’s about 200 RPM/V, offset by 2800 RPM. Totally unloaded, of course.

    The original data:

    DC V DC A RPM Notes
    15 0.29 690 Barely turning
    20 0.28 1380 Finger-stoppable
    25 0.29 2350
    30 0.29 3450
    35 0.30 4450
    40 0.29 5740
    45 0.29 6780 Still finger-holdable at start
    50 0.29 8000

    I can hold the shaft stopped between my fingers up through 45 V, with 0.54 A locked-rotor current at 25 V. The motor doesn’t have a lot of torque, although it’s operating at less than half the normal RMS voltage.

    I should take those numbers with the motor driving the sewing machine to get an idea of the actual current under a more-or-less normal load.

    Reversing the power supply leads shows that the motor rotates only counterclockwise, which is exactly what you’d expect: both polarities of the normal AC sine wave must turn the motor in the same direction.

  • Kenmore 158: Needle Position Sensing

    Fancy new sewing machines can stop with the needle either up (so you can remove the fabric) or down (to nail it in place while you rotate it). This requires sensing the needle position, which prompted me to spend far too long contemplating all the mechanical gadgetry driven by the motor.

    As nearly as I can tell, the crank counterweight behind the handwheel produces the most unambiguous position reports. Here’s what it looks like with the needle down:

    Kenmore 158 - main shaft counterweight
    Kenmore 158 – main shaft counterweight

    As you’d expect, with the shaft rotated exactly 180° from that point, the needle is up.

    The inviting space just above the shaft provides room for the bobbin winder that engages a knurled ring on the back of the handwheel, but the lower space seems to be available. The counterweight sits about halfway into the back of the handwheel, so the sensors must look at the frame side of the counterweight.

    Two adjacent sensors could detect the edge of the counterweight, which would be enough to uniquely identify both positions. If they were spaced across the lower-left edge in that picture:

    • 01 = trailing edge = bottom dead center = needle down (as shown)
    • 00 = open air = needle rising
    • 10 = leading edge = top dead center = needle up
    • 11 = solid steel = needle falling

    Either sensor gives you one pulse per handwheel revolution and the combination gives you a quadrature output of both position and direction. The top speed of 1000 RPM produces 17 Hz square waves.

    An additional pulse/rev sensor on the motor shaft would give better control over the motor speed, as the handwheel runs at 1/10 the motor speed with belt slip built right in. Figure 10 kRPM → 170 Hz pulses.

    From a cold start, you know the shaft angle to within a bit under 180°. If the motor can turn in both directions (as would a stepper or DC motor), you can always move the needle upward. If it turns only forward (as does the AC motor) and the needle is falling, then you probably don’t want to move the motor until you get a button push indicating that all fingers are clear.

    A pair of Hall effect sensors might suffice to detect that big hunk of steel, perhaps with a pair of teeny magnets glued to the face or a magnetic circuit closed by the counterweight.

    More pondering is in order.

  • Kenmore 158: NEMA 23 Motor Adapter

    After removing the AC motor from the sewing machine, I wondered if a NEMA 23 stepper motor would fit:

    Kenmore 158 - NEMA 23 stepper - trial fit
    Kenmore 158 – NEMA 23 stepper – trial fit

    Huh. Who’d’a thunk it? That’s just too good to pass up…

    Although you wouldn’t use PLA for the real motor mount, this was easy:

    Drive Motor Mount - solid model
    Drive Motor Mount – solid model

    And the whole affair fits pretty much like you’d expect:

    Kenmore 158 - NEMA 23 stepper - on adapter
    Kenmore 158 – NEMA 23 stepper – on adapter

    The NEMA 23 motor doesn’t have the same end profile as the AC motor and the adapter plate gets in the way of the pulley, but flipping the pulley end-for-end perfectly aligned the belt.

    For whatever it’s worth, here’s how I removed the pressed-on gear from the shaft:

    NEMA 23 Stepper - removing gear
    NEMA 23 Stepper – removing gear

    I’m pretty sure I have a little gear puller somewhere, but it’s not where I expected to find it, which means it could be anywhere.

    Much to my astonishment, the shafts on both motors are exactly 1/4″ inch. I filed a flat on the shaft to avoid having the setscrew goober the poor thing.

    A stepper isn’t the right hammer for this job, because it can’t possibly reach 8000 rpm, but it’ll be good enough to explore the parameter space and weed out the truly stupid mistakes. A brushless DC motor from halfway around the planet would fit in the same spot.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // NEMA 23 Stepper Mounting Plate
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2014
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Build Show 
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 4 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.70;			// assembly alignment pins: filament dia
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    // Origin at bottom front corner of plate as mounted on machine
    //	motor mounted on rear surface, so recess is on that side
    
    PlateThick = 4.0;				// overall plate thickness
    
    SlotOffset = [10.0,13.0,0];		// center nearest origin, motor in X+,Y+ direction
    SlotSize = [8.0,25.0];			// diameter of mounting screw , overall end-to-end length
    
    CutoutOffset = [0.0,40.0,0];	// cutout around machine casting
    CutoutSize = [18.0,18.0];
    
    MotorBase = 58.0;				// square base plate side
    MotorHoleOC = 47.2;				// hole center-to-center spacing
    MotorHoleOffset = MotorHoleOC/2;
    MotorHoleDia = 5.0;
    MotorBaseCornerRadius = (MotorBase - MotorHoleOC)/2;
    
    FlangeWidth = 20.0;				// mounting flange
    
    MotorCenter = [(FlangeWidth + MotorBase/2),(MotorBase/2),0];		// XY of shaft centerline
    
    MotorShaftDia = 7.0;			// allow some clearance
    
    HubDia = 38.5;					// allow some clearance
    HubHeight = 1.8;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it!
    
    module BasePlate() {
    
    	difference() {
    //		cube([(MotorCenter[0] + MotorBase/2),MotorBase,PlateThick],center=false);
    		linear_extrude(height = PlateThick) {
    			hull() {
    				translate([MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([FlangeWidth + MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([FlangeWidth + MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    			}
    		}
    
    		translate(MotorCenter - [0,0,Protrusion]) {
    			rotate(180/8)
    				PolyCyl(MotorShaftDia,(PlateThick + 2*Protrusion),8);		// shaft hole
    			PolyCyl(HubDia,(HubHeight + Protrusion));						// hub recess
    			for (x=[-1,1] , y=[-1,1]) {
    				translate([x*MotorHoleOffset,y*MotorHoleOffset,0])
    					rotate(180/8)
    						PolyCyl(MotorHoleDia,(PlateThick + 2*Protrusion),8);
    			}
    		}
    
    		translate(SlotOffset - [0,0,Protrusion]) {							// adjustment slot
    			linear_extrude(height = (PlateThick + 2*Protrusion))
    				hull() {
    					circle(d=SlotSize[0]);
    					translate([0,(SlotSize[1] - SlotSize[0])])
    						circle(d=SlotSize[0]);
    
    				}
    		}
    
    		translate(CutoutOffset - [Protrusion,0,Protrusion])
    			linear_extrude(height = (PlateThick + 2*Protrusion))
    				square(CutoutSize + [Protrusion,Protrusion]);
    	}
    }
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	BasePlate();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([-(SlotOffset[0] + MotorBase/2),MotorBase/2,PlateThick])
    		rotate([180,0,0])
    			BasePlate();
    }
    
    
  • Kenmore 158: Motor, Belts, and Pulleys

    The Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine contains a 120 VAC / 1 A motor that powers all the moving parts through a V belt:

    Kenmore 158 - AC drive motor - overview
    Kenmore 158 – AC drive motor – overview

    Looking up through the body:

    Kenmore 158 - AC motor and belt - bottom
    Kenmore 158 – AC motor and belt – bottom

    A double pulley on a jackshaft reduces the motor speed on the way to the handwheel:

    Kenmore 158 - handwheel - jackshaft pulley
    Kenmore 158 – handwheel – jackshaft pulley

    The motor and handwheel turn counterclockwise in normal operation, but can be turned clockwise by hand as needed. The belt tension isn’t very high and the jackshaft pulleys can slip, but I’m not sure if that’s intentional or the result of several decades of runtime.

    Despite the cogged belt, the pulleys are smooth; it’s not a positive-drive transmission with timing-belt pulleys.

    The belts:

    • Sears part numbers: top 30083, bottom 28908 / 50013
    • 6 mm at the top of the pulley
    • 4 mm at the base of the V
    • 3.5 mm thick

    You could, if you had to, run a belt from the handwheel directly to the motor, although the pulley would ride about 7 mm further out on the shaft. I have no way to measure the lengths with any confidence in the results; one could calculate the lengths based on pulley diameters and center spacing.

    Sticking retroreflective tape on the pulleys and handwheel, then deploying the laser tachometer, provides some minimum and maximum speeds:

    • Motor: 2100 – 8500 rpm
    • Jackshaft: 800 – 3200 rpm
    • Handwheel: 200 – 930 rpm

    Those aren’t entirely consistent, because I’m using the old foot pedal speed control with its defunct carbon disks; the low end, in particular, isn’t as slow as it can go.

    In any event, there’s about a 10:1 speed reduction from motor to handwheel.

    The motor label clearly states that it’s 100-120 V AC, but it has brushes, so it’s actually a universal-wound motor that should run happily on DC.

     

  • Kenmore 158: Foot Pedal Foot Bushings

    As you’d expect, the soft feet on the bottom of the Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine’s foot pedal control turn into hard buttons after a few decades. The OEM feet have mushroom tops that push through holes in the case and latch in place; of course, none of the rubber feet in my collection match the hole diameter or case thickness.

    No problem! Design a bushing that fits the case hole and passes a 4-40 screw:

    Speed Control Foot Bushing
    Speed Control Foot Bushing

    Then print up a handful, add screws to fit the rubber feet, and top off with nuts:

    Kenmore 158 - pedal foot bushing - detail
    Kenmore 158 – pedal foot bushing – detail

    Installed, with the screws cropped to a suitable length, they look about like you’d expect:

    Kenmore 158 - pedal foot bushing - interior
    Kenmore 158 – pedal foot bushing – interior

    Turns out that the springs supporting the foot pedal rest in those pockets, so the bushing reduces the spring travel by a few millimeters. The springs aren’t completely compressed with the pedal fully depressed, so it’s all good.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine Foot Control Bushings
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2014
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    Stem = [2.5,5.7];			// through the case hole
    Cap = [3.0,10.0];			// inside the case
    
    LEN = 0;
    DIA = 1;
    
    OAL = Stem[LEN] + Cap[LEN];
    
    ScrewDia = 2.8;				// 4-40 generous clearance
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    difference() {
    	union() {
    		cylinder(d=Stem[DIA],h=OAL,$fn=16);
    		cylinder(d=Cap[DIA],h=Cap[LEN],$fm=16);
    	}
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    		PolyCyl(ScrewDia,OAL + 2*Protrusion,6);
    }
    
  • Installing a Smooth-head Screw

    A screw (*) fastens the capacity reduction block to the magazine’s interior floor plate:

    Browning Hi-Power magazine - block detail
    Browning Hi-Power magazine – block detail

    It started as a normal M3x0.5 socket-head cap, but I reduced the diameter and turned off the socket to fit the existing hole in the exterior floor plate:

    BHP floor plate screw - disk head
    BHP floor plate screw – disk head

    The head was just barely too large for the largest of my pin vises. Drat!

    The easiest way (for me, anyhow) to install that screw into the epoxy-loaded block started by dropping it into what seems to be a shim-punching tool:

    Base screw in alignment block
    Base screw in alignment block

    It’s in the left hole of the top front row: talk about protective coloration, eh?

    Then capture it in one of the Sherline’s drill chucks:

    Base screw in Jacobs chuck
    Base screw in Jacobs chuck

    Which makes it trivially easy to turn right into the nut brazed to the floor plate and the epoxy inside the block. When the epoxy cures, the screw, nut, floor plate, spring, and block become one solid unit.

    That punch block came with the lathe tooling, made for some special purpose long lost in history. It comes in handy all the time for other jobs, though, so I think it’s still happy.

    (*) The pictures are staged recreations; I was cleaning off the bench and unearthed the spare screws.