The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Kenmore 158: NEMA 23 Motor Adapter

    After removing the AC motor from the sewing machine, I wondered if a NEMA 23 stepper motor would fit:

    Kenmore 158 - NEMA 23 stepper - trial fit
    Kenmore 158 – NEMA 23 stepper – trial fit

    Huh. Who’d’a thunk it? That’s just too good to pass up…

    Although you wouldn’t use PLA for the real motor mount, this was easy:

    Drive Motor Mount - solid model
    Drive Motor Mount – solid model

    And the whole affair fits pretty much like you’d expect:

    Kenmore 158 - NEMA 23 stepper - on adapter
    Kenmore 158 – NEMA 23 stepper – on adapter

    The NEMA 23 motor doesn’t have the same end profile as the AC motor and the adapter plate gets in the way of the pulley, but flipping the pulley end-for-end perfectly aligned the belt.

    For whatever it’s worth, here’s how I removed the pressed-on gear from the shaft:

    NEMA 23 Stepper - removing gear
    NEMA 23 Stepper – removing gear

    I’m pretty sure I have a little gear puller somewhere, but it’s not where I expected to find it, which means it could be anywhere.

    Much to my astonishment, the shafts on both motors are exactly 1/4″ inch. I filed a flat on the shaft to avoid having the setscrew goober the poor thing.

    A stepper isn’t the right hammer for this job, because it can’t possibly reach 8000 rpm, but it’ll be good enough to explore the parameter space and weed out the truly stupid mistakes. A brushless DC motor from halfway around the planet would fit in the same spot.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // NEMA 23 Stepper Mounting Plate
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2014
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Build Show 
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 4 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    AlignPinOD = 1.70;			// assembly alignment pins: filament dia
    
    inch = 25.4;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    // Origin at bottom front corner of plate as mounted on machine
    //	motor mounted on rear surface, so recess is on that side
    
    PlateThick = 4.0;				// overall plate thickness
    
    SlotOffset = [10.0,13.0,0];		// center nearest origin, motor in X+,Y+ direction
    SlotSize = [8.0,25.0];			// diameter of mounting screw , overall end-to-end length
    
    CutoutOffset = [0.0,40.0,0];	// cutout around machine casting
    CutoutSize = [18.0,18.0];
    
    MotorBase = 58.0;				// square base plate side
    MotorHoleOC = 47.2;				// hole center-to-center spacing
    MotorHoleOffset = MotorHoleOC/2;
    MotorHoleDia = 5.0;
    MotorBaseCornerRadius = (MotorBase - MotorHoleOC)/2;
    
    FlangeWidth = 20.0;				// mounting flange
    
    MotorCenter = [(FlangeWidth + MotorBase/2),(MotorBase/2),0];		// XY of shaft centerline
    
    MotorShaftDia = 7.0;			// allow some clearance
    
    HubDia = 38.5;					// allow some clearance
    HubHeight = 1.8;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it!
    
    module BasePlate() {
    
    	difference() {
    //		cube([(MotorCenter[0] + MotorBase/2),MotorBase,PlateThick],center=false);
    		linear_extrude(height = PlateThick) {
    			hull() {
    				translate([MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([FlangeWidth + MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    				translate([FlangeWidth + MotorBase - MotorBaseCornerRadius,MotorBaseCornerRadius])
    					circle(r=MotorBaseCornerRadius);
    			}
    		}
    
    		translate(MotorCenter - [0,0,Protrusion]) {
    			rotate(180/8)
    				PolyCyl(MotorShaftDia,(PlateThick + 2*Protrusion),8);		// shaft hole
    			PolyCyl(HubDia,(HubHeight + Protrusion));						// hub recess
    			for (x=[-1,1] , y=[-1,1]) {
    				translate([x*MotorHoleOffset,y*MotorHoleOffset,0])
    					rotate(180/8)
    						PolyCyl(MotorHoleDia,(PlateThick + 2*Protrusion),8);
    			}
    		}
    
    		translate(SlotOffset - [0,0,Protrusion]) {							// adjustment slot
    			linear_extrude(height = (PlateThick + 2*Protrusion))
    				hull() {
    					circle(d=SlotSize[0]);
    					translate([0,(SlotSize[1] - SlotSize[0])])
    						circle(d=SlotSize[0]);
    
    				}
    		}
    
    		translate(CutoutOffset - [Protrusion,0,Protrusion])
    			linear_extrude(height = (PlateThick + 2*Protrusion))
    				square(CutoutSize + [Protrusion,Protrusion]);
    	}
    }
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    	BasePlate();
    }
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([-(SlotOffset[0] + MotorBase/2),MotorBase/2,PlateThick])
    		rotate([180,0,0])
    			BasePlate();
    }
    
    
  • Kenmore 158: Motor, Belts, and Pulleys

    The Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine contains a 120 VAC / 1 A motor that powers all the moving parts through a V belt:

    Kenmore 158 - AC drive motor - overview
    Kenmore 158 – AC drive motor – overview

    Looking up through the body:

    Kenmore 158 - AC motor and belt - bottom
    Kenmore 158 – AC motor and belt – bottom

    A double pulley on a jackshaft reduces the motor speed on the way to the handwheel:

    Kenmore 158 - handwheel - jackshaft pulley
    Kenmore 158 – handwheel – jackshaft pulley

    The motor and handwheel turn counterclockwise in normal operation, but can be turned clockwise by hand as needed. The belt tension isn’t very high and the jackshaft pulleys can slip, but I’m not sure if that’s intentional or the result of several decades of runtime.

    Despite the cogged belt, the pulleys are smooth; it’s not a positive-drive transmission with timing-belt pulleys.

    The belts:

    • Sears part numbers: top 30083, bottom 28908 / 50013
    • 6 mm at the top of the pulley
    • 4 mm at the base of the V
    • 3.5 mm thick

    You could, if you had to, run a belt from the handwheel directly to the motor, although the pulley would ride about 7 mm further out on the shaft. I have no way to measure the lengths with any confidence in the results; one could calculate the lengths based on pulley diameters and center spacing.

    Sticking retroreflective tape on the pulleys and handwheel, then deploying the laser tachometer, provides some minimum and maximum speeds:

    • Motor: 2100 – 8500 rpm
    • Jackshaft: 800 – 3200 rpm
    • Handwheel: 200 – 930 rpm

    Those aren’t entirely consistent, because I’m using the old foot pedal speed control with its defunct carbon disks; the low end, in particular, isn’t as slow as it can go.

    In any event, there’s about a 10:1 speed reduction from motor to handwheel.

    The motor label clearly states that it’s 100-120 V AC, but it has brushes, so it’s actually a universal-wound motor that should run happily on DC.

     

  • Kenmore 158: Foot Pedal Foot Bushings

    As you’d expect, the soft feet on the bottom of the Kenmore Model 158 sewing machine’s foot pedal control turn into hard buttons after a few decades. The OEM feet have mushroom tops that push through holes in the case and latch in place; of course, none of the rubber feet in my collection match the hole diameter or case thickness.

    No problem! Design a bushing that fits the case hole and passes a 4-40 screw:

    Speed Control Foot Bushing
    Speed Control Foot Bushing

    Then print up a handful, add screws to fit the rubber feet, and top off with nuts:

    Kenmore 158 - pedal foot bushing - detail
    Kenmore 158 – pedal foot bushing – detail

    Installed, with the screws cropped to a suitable length, they look about like you’d expect:

    Kenmore 158 - pedal foot bushing - interior
    Kenmore 158 – pedal foot bushing – interior

    Turns out that the springs supporting the foot pedal rest in those pockets, so the bushing reduces the spring travel by a few millimeters. The springs aren’t completely compressed with the pedal fully depressed, so it’s all good.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Kenmore Model 158 Sewing Machine Foot Control Bushings
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2014
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;			// extra clearance
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    Stem = [2.5,5.7];			// through the case hole
    Cap = [3.0,10.0];			// inside the case
    
    LEN = 0;
    DIA = 1;
    
    OAL = Stem[LEN] + Cap[LEN];
    
    ScrewDia = 2.8;				// 4-40 generous clearance
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
               $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      RangeX = floor(100 / Space);
      RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
    	  for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    difference() {
    	union() {
    		cylinder(d=Stem[DIA],h=OAL,$fn=16);
    		cylinder(d=Cap[DIA],h=Cap[LEN],$fm=16);
    	}
    	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    		PolyCyl(ScrewDia,OAL + 2*Protrusion,6);
    }
    
  • Installing a Smooth-head Screw

    A screw (*) fastens the capacity reduction block to the magazine’s interior floor plate:

    Browning Hi-Power magazine - block detail
    Browning Hi-Power magazine – block detail

    It started as a normal M3x0.5 socket-head cap, but I reduced the diameter and turned off the socket to fit the existing hole in the exterior floor plate:

    BHP floor plate screw - disk head
    BHP floor plate screw – disk head

    The head was just barely too large for the largest of my pin vises. Drat!

    The easiest way (for me, anyhow) to install that screw into the epoxy-loaded block started by dropping it into what seems to be a shim-punching tool:

    Base screw in alignment block
    Base screw in alignment block

    It’s in the left hole of the top front row: talk about protective coloration, eh?

    Then capture it in one of the Sherline’s drill chucks:

    Base screw in Jacobs chuck
    Base screw in Jacobs chuck

    Which makes it trivially easy to turn right into the nut brazed to the floor plate and the epoxy inside the block. When the epoxy cures, the screw, nut, floor plate, spring, and block become one solid unit.

    That punch block came with the lathe tooling, made for some special purpose long lost in history. It comes in handy all the time for other jobs, though, so I think it’s still happy.

    (*) The pictures are staged recreations; I was cleaning off the bench and unearthed the spare screws.

  • More Quilting Pin Caps

    Pinning the top of Mary’s latest quilt used more than 1600 pins: three boxes of specialized quilting safety pins, plus straight quilting pins tucked into all the 3D printed / silicone filled caps. Less than a quarter of the quilt top fits on the table:

    Quilt top with pins
    Quilt top with pins

    Although Mary doesn’t need them right now, I made another batch of 100 caps for her next project:

    Quilting pin caps - 4 x 25 - on platform
    Quilting pin caps – 4 x 25 – on platform

    I tweaked the OpenSCAD source to build a 10×10 array:

    Quilting Pin Cap - 10x10 array
    Quilting Pin Cap – 10×10 array

    But it turns out that a 5×5 array of caps, duplicated four times, works out better:

    Quilting Pin Cap - 5x5 array
    Quilting Pin Cap – 5×5 array

    Slic3r takes far longer to process the larger array than to make four copies of the smaller array.

    Half an hour later, they’re ready for silicone fill. In retrospect, natural PLA wasn’t a good choice for this job: there’s no way (for me) to take a picture of translucent silicone in crystalline PLA atop waxed paper on a white cutting board under fluorescent light…

    On the upside, however, you can see exactly how far the pin goes into the cap:

    Quilting pin in translucent cap
    Quilting pin in translucent cap
  • Makergear M2: Heating Times

    With the platform and extruder starting at the 19.5 °C = 67 °F Basement Laboratory ambient …

    The extruder takes 1 minute to reach 175 °C, overshoots to about 180 °C, crosses 175 °C going downward at 1:30, then gets up to 174 °C again at 3:15. I ran a PID tuning session quite a while ago with inconclusive results. Reducing the initial overshoot would probably increase the time-to-get-ready, with no net improvement.

    The platform, which isn’t the stock Makergear hardware, requires 3:30 to reach 69 °C, just under the 70 °C target, at which point it’s ready to start. There’s no insulation under the PCB-trace heater, but some previous tinkering implies that running bare doesn’t make much difference, particularly with a fan blowing on the top surface of the glass.

    M2 - Improved HBP - bottom view
    M2 – Improved HBP – bottom view

    The modified platform runs from a 40 V supply with an initial power of 250-ish W at ambient. A quick measurement at 75 °C during a print:

    • 40 V @ 5.8 A = 230 W peak
    • 10 s on / 30 s off = 25% duty cycle
    • 230 W × 0.25 = 58 W average

    Remember that’s with an outboard SSR to unload the RAMBo’s MOSFET.

    By and large, the M2 is ready to print in under 5 minutes from a standing start, which is just about enough time to spritz hair spray on the platform, load the G-Code into Pronterface, and so forth and so on.

  • Samsung Vacuum Cleaner Floor Brush: Wheel Retainers

    We still haven’t exhausted the never-sufficiently-to-be-damned Samsung Quiet Jet vacuum’s bag supply, so when a wheel fell off the floor brush again, I had to come up with a better fix than a twist of wire. Obviously, those delicate little retaining latches need more persuasion.

    Capture the wheel in the Sherline’s 4-jaw chuck on the rotary table and drill four holes just below the end of the latches:

    Samsung wheel - drilling
    Samsung wheel – drilling

    The wheel is 20 mm thick. The holes lie 9 mm back from the open end of the wheel or 11 mm from the closed end at the chuck face. Drill maybe 6 mm down; I did it by eye, jogging slowly downward until the tip of the drill touched the latch.

    Tap the holes and install four 8-32 setscrews:

    Samsung wheel - setscrews installed
    Samsung wheel – setscrews installed

    I don’t have a bottoming tap, but an ordinary plug tap was Good Enough; the incomplete threads should hold the setscrews in place.

    Reinstall the wheel, tighten the setscrews, and wrap festive silicone tape around the whole affair:

    Samsung floor brush - wheel installed
    Samsung floor brush – wheel installed

    I heroically resisted the temptation to pry the other wheel off for a preemptive repair …