Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

Machine Shop

Please Close The Gate Signs: Paint Masking FAIL

A warm day let me shoot the engraved signs for the Vassar Community Garden gates with rattlecan black:

Please Close The Gate - masking tape peeled
Please Close The Gate – masking tape peeled

The full sheet of orange acrylic arrived with plastic protective film on both sides, which I planned to use for paint masking. Alas, one side also had a wrinkle running its length that ended up on two signs, so I replaced that film with blue masking tape.

As fate would have it, the first side of the first sign I peeled had masking tape and produced what you see above.

Things went bad in a hurry. The paint had no adhesion whatsoever to the plastic film and fell off in flakes as I peeled the film away:

Please Close The Gate - plastic peeled
Please Close The Gate – plastic peeled

I assumed the flakes would just fall off the signs, perhaps with a little persuasion, so I peeled and weeded all the signs before cleaning them up.

Although the paint was fully dry, when the molecularly smooth surface of each paint flake touched the molecularly smooth surface of the newly exposed acrylic, the two instantly and permanently fused together.

There were a lot of flakes:

Please Close The Gate - plastic peeled - detail
Please Close The Gate – plastic peeled – detail

Removal techniques that did not work:

  • Vacuuming with a brush
  • Gentle rubbing with a soft cloth
  • Firm rubbing after spraying with acrylic cleaner
  • Scraping with a plastic razor blade

So I deployed a P220 grit sanding block and wrecked the glossy surface of both sides of all six signs. I briefly considered trying to recover the finish by sanding them all up through about 2000 grit, then came to my senses: my sanding arm is weak.

Careful examination of the last picture shows several places around edges of the circle where the plastic film melted into a blob that blocked the paint, rather than vaporizing. I used enough power to engrave only about 0.3 mm deep (because they’re engraved on both sides), but the transition wasn’t fast enough for a clean edge.

They don’t look as nice as I’d like, but they’re good enough for the purpose:

Please Close The Gate - installed
Please Close The Gate – installed

The acrylic sheet is more see-through than I expected, at least when backlit by bright sunlight.

Please Close The Gate - seethrough
Please Close The Gate – seethrough

Next: we discover what happens to UV-stabilized orange acrylic and black outdoor paint over the course of a year in garden sunshine.

Machine Shop, Recumbent Bicycling

Bafang Triangle Plate Rework

The time has come to add a Bafang mid-drive motor to my Tour Easy recumbent, much like the one Mary has been using for the last two years. When I got to the point of installing the motor in the bottom bracket shell, this happened:

Bafang Triangle Plate - jammed screw
Bafang Triangle Plate – jammed screw

It turns out the triangle plate has slightly misplaced bolt holes:

Bafang Triangle Plate - misplaced bolt holes
Bafang Triangle Plate – misplaced bolt holes

If you look very carefully, you’ll see the holes sit just slightly above the midline of those ears. The additional fractional millimeter below the holes touches the motor end bell and prevents them from lining up with the tapped holes.

Normally, you’d just hit the plate with a file and be done with it, but it’s ferociously hardened steel: a file bounces right off.

I deployed a Dremel sanding drum above the ShopVac’s snout to catch the abrasive dust, eroded just enough steel to line up the holes, and everything now fits the way it should.

Done!

Home Ec, Machine Shop, Software

Refresh Tears Eye Lube Storage Boxes

A recent Squidwrench meeting provided the opportunity to make a couple of racks for an assortment of Refresh Tears / Liquigel bottles:

Refresh eye lube - storage cases
Refresh eye lube – storage cases

I used chipboard to find out if the cross plates would stiffen the floppy 1.1 mm sheets enough for this light duty. Indeed, the overall structure becomes a nice rigid box, even though the feet and corners can’t withstand much abuse.

The finger joints use the default settings, which produce a lot of fingers along the edges. This turns out to be a Good Thing, as it gave the yellow wood glue plenty of opportunities to bond the sheets together.

Combining the default 5° slope with nine bottles along each level wastes a tremendous amount of vertical space. The adjacent racks hold three much larger cans per level, so roughly the same space doesn’t look like much. In retrospect, a 3° slope should work for smaller bottles.

And, yes, the squash on the lower shelf store nicely and become yummy meals all winter long.

The overstuffed URL generating the patterns:

http://festi.info/boxes.py/CanStorage?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=0.0&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=1.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=2.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&Stackable_angle=60&Stackable_bottom_stabilizers=0.0&Stackable_height=2.0&Stackable_holedistance=1.0&Stackable_width=4.0&fillHoles_bar_length=50&fillHoles_fill_pattern=no+fill&fillHoles_hole_max_radius=3.0&fillHoles_hole_min_radius=0.5&fillHoles_hole_style=round&fillHoles_max_random=1000&fillHoles_space_between_holes=4.0&fillHoles_space_to_border=4.0&top_edge=%C5%A0&bottom_edge=%C5%A1&canDiameter=30&canHeight=75&canNum=18&chuteAngle=5.0&thickness=1.15&format=lbrn2&tabs=0.0&qr_code=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=0&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04&language=en

And the eyeburning QR code:

Refresh Eye Lube - chipboard QR code
Refresh Eye Lube – chipboard QR code
Home Ec, Machine Shop, Software

Bobbin Storage Trays

Long ago, I gave Mary a box of 100 empty bobbins for her Kenmore 158 sewing machine, with the intent she would never again have to unwind a bobbin to put new thread on it. This worked so well I did the same thing for her Juki, with the result she needed somewhere to store all those filled bobbins.

Her work table has a shallow drawer, so we tried this out:

Bobbin Storage Case - installed
Bobbin Storage Case – installed

They’re a matched set cut from 1.5 mm TroCraft Eco:

Bobbin Storage Case - cutting overview
Bobbin Storage Case – cutting overview

Watching all those little rectangles fall out just never gets old:

Bobbin Storage Case - cutting detail
Bobbin Storage Case – cutting detail

I ran off a test tray in ordinary chipboard that works just as well, but lacks the pleasant appearance and feel of the TroCraft. Clear 1.5 mm acrylic would probably work, at the cost of requring a much neater glue job where the dividers meet the walls.

The spacing is a bit tight to pluck a bobbin from its slot between two others, but now she has enough space to arrange them as needed, with empty spaces around the most-used colors. I offered to carpet the drawer with bobbin trays, but she suggested waiting until these fill up.

The well-stuffed URL specifying the tray:

http://festi.info/boxes.py/TypeTray?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=0.5&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=1.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=2.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&Stackable_angle=60&Stackable_bottom_stabilizers=0.0&Stackable_height=2.0&Stackable_holedistance=2.0&Stackable_width=4.0&Hinge_grip_percentage=0&Hinge_outset=0&Hinge_pinwidth=0.5&Hinge_style=outset&Hinge_axle=2.0&Hinge_grip_length=0&Hinge_hingestrength=1&CabinetHinge_bore=3.2&CabinetHinge_eyes_per_hinge=5&CabinetHinge_hinges=2&CabinetHinge_style=inside&CabinetHinge_eye=1.5&CabinetHinge_play=0.05&CabinetHinge_spacing=2.0&Lid_angle=90.0&Lid_hole_width=0&Lid_second_pin=0&Lid_second_pin=1&Lid_spring=both&Lid_style=rectangular&Lid_surroundingspaces=2.0&Lid_bottom_lip=0.0&Lid_edge_width=1.0&Lid_extra_length=0.0&Lid_finger=3.0&Lid_play=0.05&Lid_space=2.0&Lid_width=1.0&Click_angle=5.0&Click_bottom_radius=0.1&Click_depth=3.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_height=50.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_r_hole=2.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_radius=30.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_outset=1.0&Mounting_d_head=6.5&Mounting_d_shaft=3.0&Mounting_margin=0.125&Mounting_num=2&Mounting_side=back&Mounting_style=straight+edge%2C+within&HandleEdge_height=20.0&HandleEdge_hole_height=75.0&HandleEdge_hole_width=40%3A40&HandleEdge_on_sides=0&HandleEdge_on_sides=1&HandleEdge_radius=10.0&HandleEdge_outset=1.0&sx=21*7&sy=12*7&h=20.0&hi=10.0&outside=0&bottom_edge=s&top_edge=S&back_height=0.0&radius=0.0&gripheight=30&gripwidth=00&handle=0&thickness=1.65&format=lbrn2&tabs=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=00&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04

Which can now be specified as the biggest QR code I’ve ever seen:

Bobbin Tray - TroCraft Eco QR code
Bobbin Tray – TroCraft Eco QR code

That makes my eyes hurt …

Home Ec, Machine Shop, Software

Laser-Cut Envelope Opener

As practice in using the laser to engrave a figure to a known depth, this seemed appropriate:

Envelope Opener - original
Envelope Opener – original

The black envelope opener on the right came in a long-ago surplus deal and worked really well, which I cannot say for the retail replacements I got a few years back.

The tan envelope opener on the left is an obvious case of IP theft, copying the size and shape using a scanned image:

Classic opener - knife blades - scan
Classic opener – knife blades – scan

The two blades seemed like good candidates, with the lower one winning the contest:

Kobalt 78010 Mini Utility Knife Blade mask
Kobalt 78010 Mini Utility Knife Blade mask

Although the pack of “mini utility knife blades” sports a Lowe’s Kobalt part number, they no longer carry that item. You can find plenty of identical blades elsewhere, so they’re not a rare collectible and I have plenty of backup.

Put the outline of the opener on a cut layer, put the blade on an engraving layer, orient appropriately, and make a mirror-image duplicate:

Envelope Opener - LB Layout
Envelope Opener – LB Layout

The original opener is a touch over 3 mm thick, so the settings engrave 0.25 mm into the surface to make a blade pocket, then cut the shapes from 1.5 mm TroCraft Eco:

Envelope Opener - cutting
Envelope Opener – cutting

After all the cutting was done, it looks about as you’d expect:

Envelope Opener - interior layout
Envelope Opener – interior layout

Slather with yellow PVA wood glue and apply too many clamps:

Envelope Opener - clamping
Envelope Opener – clamping

Next time around, I’ll round off the edges before assembly, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning:

Envelope Opener - detail
Envelope Opener – detail

The TroCraft sheet engraves so cleanly that, were I to go into mass production, I’d set up a fixture for grayscale engraving shaping the perimeters.

Obviously, this makes no economic sense, but it does produce a considerable amount of satisfaction, which is pretty much all that matters for such things.

Machine Shop, Oddities, Science

Tree vs. Guide Rail: Sheared Bolt

Spotted on a walk along the Mighty Wappingers Creek after a storm with plenty of gusty winds:

Tree-smashed guide rail
Tree-smashed guide rail

The tangle of branches and logs came from a tree that fell across the road from the far right side and put that crease into the guide rail. The vertical stump seems unrelated to that incident.

A bit of rummaging at the base of one post produced a victim:

Tree-smashed guide rail - sheared bolt - side
Tree-smashed guide rail – sheared bolt – side

The impact produced enough force to turn the rail brackets into guillotine metal shears against the posts:

Tree-smashed guide rail - sheared bolt - end
Tree-smashed guide rail – sheared bolt – end

It’s not a clean shear cut, which isn’t surprising under the circumstances.

An ordinary ½-13 Grade 8 bolt has a 17 k pound proof load: popping that bolt required a mighty oomf.

Memo to Self: stay indoors during windy storms!

Home Ec, Machine Shop

DIY CPAP Mask Liner

Mary cut out a simple cloth liner for her ResMed F20 CPAP mask (a.k.a. “cushion”) and snipped away at the fabric until it felt about right. I scanned the result and turned it into a bitmap mask (which is entirely different from a CPAP mask):

Mask liner - scanned
Mask liner – scanned

Given that as a start:

  • Import the scanned image into LightBurn
  • Fair a few curves around the perimeters by hand, rather than attempting to trace the thing
  • Rationalize the sizes
  • Make it symmetric
  • Cut a few prototypes while tweaking the fit

Which leads to a pattern like this:

CPAP Mask Liner - F20 knit - spline fit
CPAP Mask Liner – F20 knit – spline fit

The rectangular upper part forms a simple eyeshade that also keeps minor leaks from disturbing her sleep. Your mileage may vary, depending on how much you toss and turn during the night.

We found the fit depends on the fabric, with woven fabric requiring a taller opening:

CPAP Mask Liner - F20 knit woven - LB layout
CPAP Mask Liner – F20 knit woven – LB layout

The engraved legend verifies I used the proper design for the fabric:

Laser cut CPAP Mask Liner - F20 - knit fabric
Laser cut CPAP Mask Liner – F20 – knit fabric

The opening has tabs holding it in place while cutting, at least until we get this down to a routine.

Then make enough for a while:

Laser cut CPAP Mask Liner - F20 - production
Laser cut CPAP Mask Liner – F20 – production

The usual woodstove odor vanishes after half a day sitting atop the clothes washer. Putting them in a mesh bag and tossing them into the regular wash refreshes them after use.

The LightBurn SVG layouts as a GitHub Gist:

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view raw CPAP Mask Liner - F20 knit woven - LB layout.svg hosted with ❤ by GitHub