Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

Tube Turning Adapters

Finishing the PVC tubes reinforcing the vacuum cleaner adapters required fixtures on each end:

Dirt Devil adapter – pipe turning

Because the tubes get epoxied into the adapters, there’s no particular need for a smooth surface finish and, in fact, some surface roughness makes for a good epoxy bond. The interior of a 3D printed adapter is nothing if not rough; the epoxy in between will be perfectly happy.

Turning the tubes started by just grabbing the conduit in the chuck and peeling the end that stuck out down to the finished diameter, because the conduit was thick-walled enough to let that work.

The remaining wall was so thin that the chuck would crunch it into a three-lobed shape, so the white ring in the chuck is a scrap of PVC pipe turned to fit the tube ID and provide enough reinforcement to keep the tube round.

The conduit ID isn’t a controlled dimension and was, in point of fact, not particularly round. It was, however, smooth, which counts for more than anything inside a tube carrying airborne fuzzy debris; polishing the interior of a lathe-bored pipe simply wasn’t going to happen.

The fixture on the other end started as a scrap of polycarbonate bandsawed into a disk with a hole center-drilled in the middle:

Pipe end lathe fixture – center drilling

Stick it onto a disk turning fixture and sissy-cut the OD down a little smaller than the eventual tube OD:

Pipe end lathe fixture – turning OD

Turn the end down to fit the tube ID, flip it around to center-drill the other side, stick it into the tube, and finally finish the job:

Dirt Devil adapter – pipe fixture

The nice layering effect along the tube probably comes from molding the conduit from recycled PVC with no particular concern for color matching.

A family portrait of the fixtures with a finished adapter:

Dirt Devil adapter – fixtures

A fine chunk of Quality Shop Time: solid modeling, 3D printing, mini-lathe turning, and even some coordinate drilling on the Sherline.

2021-10-07

Dirt Devil Vacuum Tool Adapters

Being the domain expert for adapters between a new vacuum cleaner and old tools, this made sense (even though it’s not our vacuum):

Dirt Devil Nozzle Bushing - solid model — Dirt Devil Nozzle Bushing – solid model

The notch snaps into a Dirt Devil Power Stick vacuum cleaner and the tapered end fits a variety of old tools for other vacuum cleaners:

Dirt Devil Nozzle Bushing top view - solid model — Dirt Devil Nozzle Bushing top view – solid model

Having some experience breaking thin-walled adapters, these have reinforcement from a PVC tube:

Dirt Devil adapter - parts — Dirt Devil adapter – parts

A smear of epoxy around the interior holds the tube in place:

Dirt Devil adapters - assembled — Dirt Devil adapters – assembled

Building the critical dimensions with a 3D printed part simplified the project, because I could (and did!) tweak the OpenSCAD code to match the tapers to the tools. Turning four of those tubes from a chunk of PVC conduit, however, makes a story for another day.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Dirt Devil nozzle adapter
	// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU 2021-10

	// Tool taper shift
	Finesse = –0.1; // [-0.5:0.1:0.5]

	// PVC pipe liner
	PipeOD = 28.5;

	/* [Hidden] */

	//– Extrusion parameters

	ThreadThick = 0.25;
	ThreadWidth = 0.40;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly

	//———————-
	// Dimensions

	TAPER_MIN = 0;
	TAPER_MAX = 1;
	TAPER_LENGTH = 2;

	Socket = [36.0,37.0,40.0];

	LockringDia = 33.5;
	LockringWidth = 4.5;
	LockringOffset = 2.5;

	Tool = [Finesse,Finesse,0] + [30.0,31.1,30.0];

	AdapterOAL = Socket[TAPER_LENGTH] + Tool[TAPER_LENGTH];

	NumSides = 36;
	$fn = NumSides;

	//———————-
	// Useful routines

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes

	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);

	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);

	cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);

	}


	//——————-
	// Define it!

	module Adapter() {

	difference() {
	union() {
	difference() {
	cylinder(d1=Socket[TAPER_MIN],d2=Socket[TAPER_MAX],h=Socket[TAPER_LENGTH]);
	translate([0,0,LockringOffset])
	cylinder(d=2*Socket[TAPER_MAX],h=LockringWidth);
	}

	cylinder(d=LockringDia,h=Socket[TAPER_LENGTH]);
	translate([0,0,LockringOffset + 0.75*LockringWidth])
	cylinder(d1=LockringDia,d2=Socket[TAPER_MIN],h=0.25*LockringWidth);

	translate([0,0,Socket[TAPER_LENGTH]])
	cylinder(d1=Tool[TAPER_MAX],d2=Tool[TAPER_MIN],h=Tool[TAPER_LENGTH]);
	}
	translate([0,0,–Protrusion])
	PolyCyl(PipeOD,AdapterOAL + 2*Protrusion,NumSides);
	}

	}

	//———————-
	// Build it!

	Adapter();

view raw Dirt Devil Nozzle Bushing.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

The taper in the code almost certainly won’t fit whatever tool you have: measure thrice, print twice, and maybe fit once …

2021-10-06

Bondhus Wrench Replacement

The Bondhus Lifetime Guarantee works, as a replacement wrench just arrived:

Bondhus hex wrenches – 7-64 ball end – replacement

A close look at the aligned tips suggests the defective wrench blank was mis-chucked in the machine cutting the ball end:

Bondhus hex wrenches – 7-64 ball end – replacement – detail

All’s well that ends well: thank you, Bondhus!

2021-09-30
Micro-Mark Bandsaw: Acetal Upper Blade Guide

There being nothing like a good new problem to take one’s mind off all one’s old problems:

Micro-Mark Bandsaw – acetal upper blade guide installed

It’s basically the same as the lower blade guide, except coming from a stick of 5/8 inch acetal. A scant 6 mm stem goes into the vertical square rod, with a flat matching the setscrew coming up from the bottom to hold it in proper alignment.

I came within a heartbeat of cutting the slot parallel to the flat.

It worked OK while cutting a chunk of stout aluminum tube: so far, so good!

The impressive chunk of hardware is the OEM blade guide, with the brass tube for coolant flow all over the bearings. It’s mostly intended for use with the diamond blade, so I’ll swap it back in when I finally get around to cutting some slate for base plates.

2021-09-29
Tour Easy Rear Running Light: First Light!
The rear running light definitely has an industrial look:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – installed

The front of the light has plenty of clearance from the seat mesh:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – installed side view

Out on the road, the 1 W LED appears about as bright as automotive running lights:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – tunnel

The blink pattern makes it perfectly visible in sunlight, although I’d prefer somewhat larger optics:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – sunlight

In shaded conditions, it’s downright conspicuous:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – shade

At any reasonable distance, the 10° beam covers much of the road behind the bike:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – distant

You may not know what the occulting red light represents, but something ahead is worthy of your attention.

The Arduino source code producing the two dits:
```
// Tour Easy Running Light
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
// September 2021

#include <morse.h>

#define PIN_OUTPUT  13

// second param: true = active low output
LEDMorseSender Morser(PIN_OUTPUT,true,(float)10.0);

void setup()
{
    Morser.setup();

    Morser.setMessage(String("qst de ke4znu "));
    Morser.sendBlocking();

//    Morser.setWPM((float)3.0);
    Morser.setSpeed(75);
    Morser.setMessage(String("i   "));
}

void loop()
{
    if (!Morser.continueSending())
        Morser.startSending();

}
```
Looks good to me, anyhow.
2021-09-27

Tour Easy Rear Running Light: Circuit Support Plate

Building the circuit support plate for the amber front running light was entirely too fiddly:

1 W LED Running Light - baseplate dry assembly — 1 W LED Running Light – baseplate dry assembly

This was definitely easier:

Running Light Circuit Plate - solid model — Running Light Circuit Plate – solid model

Two pins fit in the small holes to align it with the LED heatsink, with an M3 stud and brass insert holding it in place:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light - circuit plate attachment — Tour Easy Rear Running Light – circuit plate attachment

The rectangular hole around the insert let me glop urethane adhesive over it to lock it into the plate, with more goop on the screw and pins to unify heatsink and plate.

The LED wires now emerge from the heatsink on the same side of the plate, simplifying the connections to the MP1584 regulator and current-sense resistor:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light - regulator wiring — Tour Easy Rear Running Light – regulator wiring

The paralleled 5.1 Ω and 3.3 Ω resistors form a 2.0 Ω resistor setting the LED current to 400 mA = 1 W at 2.6 V forward drop. They’re 1 W resistors dissipating a total of 320 mW and get barely warm.

The resistors and wires are stuck in place with clear adhesive, so things shouldn’t rattle around too much.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Circuit plate for Tour Easy running lights
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU – 2021-09

	/* [Hidden] */

	ThreadThick = 0.25;
	ThreadWidth = 0.40;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	inch = 25.4;

	//———————-
	// Dimensions
	// Light case along X axis

	LightID = 23.0;

	WallThick = 2.0;

	Screw = [3.0,6.8,4.0]; // M3 OD=washer, length=nut + washers
	Insert = [3.0,4.2,8.0]; // splined brass insert, minus splines

	InsertOffset = 10.0; // insert from heatsink end

	PinOD = 1.6; // alignment pins
	PinOC = 14.0;
	PinDepth = 5.0;

	Plate = [50.0,LightID,Insert[OD] + 4*ThreadThick]; // overall plate size

	WirePort = [10.0,3.0,2*Plate.z];

	NumSides = 234;

	//———————-
	// Useful routines

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes

	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
	cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
	h=Height,
	$fn=Sides);
	}

	// Circuit plate

	module Plate() {

	difference() {
	intersection() {
	cube(Plate,center=true);
	rotate([0,90,0])
	cylinder(d=LightID,h=2*Plate.x,$fn=NumSides,center=true);
	}

	rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
	translate([0,0,-Plate.x])
	PolyCyl(Screw[ID],2*Plate.x,6);

	rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
	translate([0,0,-Plate.x/2 – Protrusion])
	PolyCyl(Insert[OD],Insert[LENGTH] + InsertOffset + Protrusion,6);

	translate([-Plate.x/2 + InsertOffset + Insert[LENGTH]/2,0,Plate.z/2])
	cube([Insert[LENGTH],Insert[OD],Plate.z],center=true);

	for (j=[-1,1])
	translate([-Plate.x/2,j*PinOC/2,0])
	rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
	translate([0,0,-PinDepth])
	PolyCyl(PinOD,2*PinDepth,6);

	for (j=[-1,1])
	translate([0,j*(Plate.y/2 – WirePort.y/2),0])
	cube(WirePort,center=true);


	}

	}

	//- Build it

	Plate();

view raw Running Light Circuit Plate.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2021-09-24

Tour Easy Rear Running Light: LED Lens Assembly

Having discovered the need for careful alignment of the LED PCB with the lens, I paid more attention to detail this time around.

The LEDs arrive soldered to PCBs atop aluminum star heat spreaders, but the one I picked out of the bag looked slightly misaligned. Unsoldering it showed a smear of solder paste had melted across the central pad:

1 W LED PCB – errant solder

The LED has a die contact slug on the bottom which, I suppose, could be directly soldered to the spreader. For my simple needs, removing the errant solder, plunking the LED atop a layer of heatsink compound, and resoldering the leads should suffice:

1 W LED PCB – wire layout

The LED holder has a pair of slots aligning it with the LED leads on the PCB. The base of the holder sits flush against the PCB, so the wires must attach directly to the LED pads.

I ran the wires for the amber light through holes close to the pads:

1 W LED Running Light – heatsink fit

Which required chewing two passages in the base of the holder:

1 W LED Running Light – wiring

It turns out the 5° and 10° lenses are strongly conical and leave plenty of room around the LED to run a wire around the inside of the holder, so I drilled a pair of holes to put both wires on the same side of the circuit plate:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – circuit plate attachment

The holder required minor surgery to let the wire double back on itself over the LED pad:

1 W LED Holder – wire passage

The wires thread through two holes drilled in the plastic holder:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – clamped LED assembly

More urethane adhesive glues the PCB to the LED holder, with the clamp applying pressure to the lens to ensure the lens seats properly around the LED. It turned out that worked well and the light has a nicely rounded beam.

With the optics bonded together, metal-filled JB Weld epoxy attaches the heat spreader to the heatsink with good thermal conductivity:

Tour Easy Rear Running Light – clamped LED heatsink

The LED holder is a slide fit in the heatsink, so the clamps can keep the PCB flat on the bottom of the recess while the epoxy gets a good grip on all parts.

Now it’s just a matter of wiring everything up!

2021-09-23