The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

  • House Flipping

    Sometimes I get text messages:

    House Hunting Chat
    House Hunting Chat

    BzzzzclickNO CARRIER

    I’m reasonably sure “Caroline” is really a property flipper, so we’re not in “her” target market.

    Should you be interested in moving into the Hudson Valley, we can probably make a mutually beneficial deal. Protip: use email.

    If only Android allowed whitelisting SMS message sources.

  • Nuheara IQbuds² MAX vs. Bose Hearphones

    Nuheara IQbuds² MAX vs. Bose Hearphones

    [Update: I pointed to this post in a comment on the Bose Community forum, wherein I mentioned the lack of Bluetooth in their Sound Control hearing aids. It seems “Posts on any board, including Hearphones, on the Bose Community regarding the Bose SoundControl Hearing Aids will be removed by our moderators”, so they edited out those paragraphs. Fair enough: it’s their playground, so they set the rules’]

    Having recently bought a set of Nuheara IQbuds² MAX hearing assistance buds, I get “So, what do you think?” invitations to leave a review. As expected, the third-party company handling the reviews will strip-mine my personal bits for their own ends; I see plenty of upside for them and none for me.

    So these brief notes, compiled before I read the Okendo TOS, should serve the same purpose as an actual review, minus the nonsense of providing even more of my sensitive bits.

    Bose discontinued their Hearphones last year. While I’m reasonably happy with how mine work, they seem to last about a year before something fails. Bose replaced the first unit after its covering delaminated, replaced the second unit when a wire failed in the left microphone, and the third unit is now approaching one year of steady use.

    The Hearphone necklace curled around the IQbuds charging case:

    Bose Hearphones - Nuheara IQbuds2 MAX
    Bose Hearphones – Nuheara IQbuds2 MAX

    Comparing the IQBuds² MAX to the Bose Hearphones:

    • Heavier in the ears, but without the necklace
    • Poor battery runtime, both have non-replaceable batteries
    • Poor ear seal with silicone tips, OK with Nuheara’s foam tips
    • Immediate access to “World off” mode!
    • “World off” mode seems noisier, even with ANC on
    • Better dynamic noise control / filtering

    The tradeoff for not having the Bose necklace is, of course, carrying a smaller battery in each ear. Everybody’s claimed run times are optimistic, but after a year the Hearphones still last the better part of a day, while new IQbuds generate range anxiety after a morning and must then spend a while recharging in their case.

    The stock IQbud silicone tips exert entirely too much pressure on my ear canals. The foam tips produce a much better seal and were easier to wear for more than a few hours. The Bose “Stayhear” shaped silicone tips fit much better and suppress external sound just as well as the IQbud foam tips.

    Replacing the stock IQbuds foam tips (described as “Comply memory foam”) with actual Comply memory foam tips directly from Comply was a definite step up that should not be necessary; they are similar, but visibly different. According to Comply’s online fit selector, you need their Isolation T-167 Sennheiser-specific tips, even though Nuheara hardware appears in Comply’s selector.

    The IQbuds tap controls, except for the simplest single tap, barely work. I cannot perform a double-tap, because the bud registers the first tap as a single tap and either discards the second tap or registers it as another single tap. Long taps generally work, except when they don’t, having nothing to do with tap duration or force. Tech support tells me the buds use the audio signal to determine when a finger taps the bud, but AFAICT tap sensitivity is much too high and the discrimination entirely too unfussy.

    Amusingly, nibbling dark chocolate can produce exactly the correct audio signal to trigger the “World off” tap in the right bud and, occasionally, the “Play / Pause” tap in the left bud. I rest my case.

    For someone requiring far more audio gain than a typical hipster, firmly tapping an ear bud is an … uncomfortable … user interface.

    Fortunately, a single correctly executed tap on the right bud mutes the microphones and turns on Active Noise Cancellation; the Hearphones bury that vital function on a tiny icon inside the Bose app, requiring many seconds to start and activate.

    The IQbuds app (and, presumably, the bud firmware) does not allow assigning any tap function to any bud + tap pattern. For example, there’s no way to access both “change location” and “change focus” by tapping, because both those functions can be activated only by the right bud’s long tap: you may select one or the other. Weirdly, volume and media controls appear nearly everywhere and, if double taps worked, they’d be useful.

    The Hearphones are much better at muting relatively quiet ambient sound, to the extent that I thought the IQbud “World off” function didn’t work. It does, even though it seems tuned to suppress much higher noise levels. Both do a surprisingly good job suppressing loud yard tools, perhaps due to my inability to hear frequencies over a few kHz.

    The IQbud noise suppression exhibits horrible gain pumping in noisy environments and windy conditions. It rolls off the overall gain and filters the higher frequencies as the ambient noise increases, then restores them in a rush as the noise subsides: repeating the cycle as the noise level changes. This is very unpleasant and, AFAICT, there is no way to forcibly set a specific gain / bandwidth other than turning the suppression completely off, which misses the point.

    Bottom line: I use the IQbuds and they definitely help my hearing, but I don’t particularly like them.

    To be fair, I don’t like the Hearphones necklace very much, either, even though, overall, Bose did a better job with the actual earpieces.

  • Sticky Trap Screen Frames

    Sticky Trap Screen Frames

    The objective being to reduce the number of onion maggots in Mary’s Vassar Farm plot without chemical agents, I conjured sticky trap screen frames from the vasty digital deep:

    Sticky Trap - first production run
    Sticky Trap – first production run

    Each one contains half a sheet of yellow sticky plastic, which is easy enough to cut before peeling off the protective covering sheets. The cage is half-inch galvanized hardware cloth snipped with hardened diagonal cutters. A bead of acrylic adhesive around the base holds the cage in place

    Although you can deploy sticky sheets without cages, they tend to attract and affix beneficial critters: butterflies, small birds, furry critters, toads, gardeners, and the like. We don’t know how effective the cages will be, but they seemed better than nothing.

    They mount on ski poles cut in half:

    Sticky Trap - ski pole installed
    Sticky Trap – ski pole installed

    And on fence posts around the perimeter:

    Sticky Trap - angle bracket installed
    Sticky Trap – angle bracket installed

    To my untrained eye, some of those doomed critters are, indeed, onion maggot flies. The rest seem to be gnats and other nuisances, so IMO we’re applying population pressure in the right direction.

    Each base-and-cap frame takes about three hours to print, so I did them one at a time over the course of a few days while applying continuous product improvement.

    The sheets rest on small V blocks intended to keep them centered within the cage:

    Sticky Sheet Cage - angle bracket - solid model
    Sticky Sheet Cage – angle bracket – solid model

    The ski pole attachment must build with the cap on top, but it bridges well enough for the purpose:

    Sticky Sheet Cage - ski pole - solid model
    Sticky Sheet Cage – ski pole – solid model

    The overhanging hooks on the blocks (just barely) engage the grid to keep the lid in place, while remaining short enough to not droop too badly. You could probably delete the hooks from the bottom plate, but they align the cage while the adhesive cures.

    The sheets tend to bend in the middle, so I’ll stick a thin slat or two vertically to keep them straight.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Sticky Sheet Cage
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU May 2021
    Layout = "Build"; // [Build, Show, Cap, Attachment]
    Bracket = "Ski"; // [Angle, Ski, Post]
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    Sheet = [1,100,150]; // sticky sheet
    Grid = 0.5*inch;
    Cage = [2*Grid + 5.0, 8*Grid + 5.0, 12*Grid + 2.0]; // grid wire cage bent around sheet
    CageRad = 2.5; // wire bending radius
    CageThick = 2.0; // grid thickness
    WallThick = 3.0; // min wall and bottom thickness
    Recess = 5.0; // inset to capture cage edge
    Plate = [Cage.x,Cage.y,Recess] + [2*WallThick,2*WallThick,WallThick];
    PlateRad = 5.0;
    SkiPole = [20.0,20.0 + 2*WallThick,50];
    AnglePlate = [30,30,50];
    ScrewClear = 5.0;
    BuildGap = 5.0;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Pieces
    module Cap() {
    union() {
    difference() {
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*(Plate.x/2 – PlateRad),j*(Plate.y/2 – PlateRad),0])
    cylinder(r=PlateRad,h=Plate.z,$fn=12);
    translate([0,0,Plate.z – Recess])
    hull()
    for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
    translate([i*(Cage.x/2 – CageRad),j*(Cage.y/2 – CageRad),0])
    cylinder(r=CageRad,h=Plate.z,$fn=12);
    }
    difference() {
    Strut = Cage.x – 2*CageThick;
    Latch = [Cage.x,WallThick,0.75*Plate.z];
    union() {
    for (j=[-1,1])
    translate([0,j*2.5*Grid,Plate.z])
    cube([Strut,WallThick,2*Plate.z],center=true);
    for (j=[-1,1])
    translate([0,j*2.5*Grid,2*Plate.z – Latch.z/2])
    cube(Latch,center=true);
    }
    translate([0,0,2*Plate.z + (Cage.z – Sheet.z)/4])
    rotate([0,45,0])
    cube([Strut/sqrt(2),Plate.y,Strut/sqrt(2)],center=true);
    }
    }
    }
    module Attachment() {
    if (Bracket == "Angle") {
    translate([0,Plate.y/2,0])
    rotate(45)
    difference() {
    union() {
    cube(AnglePlate,center=false);
    rotate(-45)
    translate([0,WallThick,Plate.z/2])
    cube([Plate.x – 2*PlateRad,4*WallThick,Plate.z],center=true);
    }
    translate([WallThick,WallThick,-Protrusion])
    cube(AnglePlate + [0,0,2*Protrusion],center=false);
    translate([AnglePlate.x/2,-Protrusion,2*AnglePlate.z/3])
    rotate([-90,0,0])
    PolyCyl(ScrewClear,2*AnglePlate.x,6);
    translate([-Protrusion,AnglePlate.x/2,1*AnglePlate.z/3])
    rotate([90,0,90])
    PolyCyl(ScrewClear,2*AnglePlate.x,6);
    }
    }
    else if (Bracket == "Ski") {
    translate([0,Plate.y/2 + SkiPole[OD]/2,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    PolyCyl(SkiPole[OD],SkiPole[LENGTH],24);
    translate([0,-3*WallThick,Plate.z/2])
    cube([Plate.x – 2*PlateRad,4*WallThick,Plate.z],center=true);
    }
    translate([0,0,-2*WallThick])
    PolyCyl(SkiPole[ID],SkiPole[LENGTH],24);
    }
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    if (Layout == "Cap")
    Cap();
    if (Layout == "Attachment") {
    Attachment();
    }
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    translate([0,0,Sheet.z/2 + Plate.z])
    color("Yellow")
    cube(Sheet,center=true);
    Cap();
    Attachment();
    translate([0,0,Sheet.z + 2*Plate.z])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    Cap();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    translate([-(Plate.x/2 + BuildGap),0,0]) {
    Cap();
    Attachment();
    }
    translate([(Plate.x/2 + BuildGap),0,0])
    Cap();
    }

  • Deer Fence Hangers

    Deer Fence Hangers

    For what should be obvious reasons, we armored Mary’s “kitchen garden” with buried concrete blocks and deer fence. I secured the fence to 7 foot plastic-coated steel-core posts strapped to shorter stakes supporting the lower wire fence, using cable ties we both knew wouldn’t survive exposure to the sun.

    As part of the spring garden prep, I summoned proper supports from the vasty digital deep:

    Deer Fence Hanger - Build view
    Deer Fence Hanger – Build view

    The general idea is to plunk one atop each post and tangle wrap the netting through the hooks, thusly:

    Deer Fence Hanger - installed
    Deer Fence Hanger – installed

    The garden looks like we killed an entire chess set and impaled their carcasses as a warning to others of their kind, but the fence now hangs neatly from the top of the posts rather than drooping sadly.

    Each one of those things takes nigh onto two hours to emerge from the M2, so I printed them one by one over the course of a few days while making continuous product improvements.

    The “natural” PETG isn’t UV stabilized, either, but it ought to last longer than those little bitty nylon cable ties. We shall see.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Deer Fence Hangers
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU May 2021
    Layout = "Show"; // [Build, Show, Cap, Hook]
    // net grid spacing
    NetOC = 55.0; // [40.0:5.0:70.0]
    // stake OD
    PoleDia = 23.0; // [20.0:30.0]
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    /* [Hidden] */
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    Notch = 5.0; // hook engagement
    WallThick = 3.0; // min wall and end thickness
    Shell = [PoleDia,PoleDia + 2*WallThick,NetOC + 2*Notch];
    HookBlock = [10.0,Shell.y/4,2*Notch]; // hanger inside length
    LegendBlock = [0.7*Shell.z,Shell.y/2,2*ThreadThick]; // legend size
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Pieces
    module Hook() {
    //%Cap();
    translate([Shell[OD]/2 – Protrusion,HookBlock.y/2,0])
    rotate([90,0,0])
    linear_extrude(height=HookBlock.y)
    difference() {
    scale([1,2])
    intersection() {
    circle(r=HookBlock.x);
    square(HookBlock.x,center=false);
    }
    square(Notch,center=false);
    }
    }
    module Cap() {
    difference() {
    rotate(180/6)
    PolyCyl(Shell[OD],Shell[LENGTH],6);
    translate([0,0,-WallThick])
    rotate(180/24)
    PolyCyl(Shell[ID],Shell[LENGTH],24);
    translate([-Shell[OD]/2,0,Shell[LENGTH]/2])
    rotate([0,90,0])
    cube(LegendBlock,center=true);
    }
    translate([-(Shell[OD]/2 – LegendBlock.z/2),0,Shell[LENGTH]/2])
    rotate([0,-90,0])
    resize(0.8*LegendBlock,auto=[true,true,false])
    linear_extrude(height=LegendBlock.z)
    text(text=str(NetOC," ",PoleDia),
    size=6,spacing=1.00,font="Bitstream Vera Sans:style=Bold",
    halign="center",valign="center");
    }
    module Hanger() {
    Cap();
    for (k=[0,1])
    translate([0,0,k*Shell.z])
    for (a=[-1:1])
    rotate([k*180,0,a*60])
    Hook();
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    if (Layout == "Cap")
    Cap();
    if (Layout == "Hook")
    Hook();
    if (Layout == "Show")
    Hanger();
    if (Layout == "Build")
    translate([0,0,Shell[LENGTH]])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    Hanger();

  • Satco PAR30 LED Spotlight Teardown

    Satco PAR30 LED Spotlight Teardown

    One of those LED spotlights may have barely outlasted its worthless warranty, but not by much, and has been languishing on the back of the bench with “Flickers hot” scrawled on its side.

    The metal base didn’t respond to twisting, so I slit the threads with a cutoff wheel:

    Satco PAR30 - thread slit
    Satco PAR30 – thread slit

    Applying the screwdriver removed the base to reveal a silicone rubber casting:

    Satco PAR30 - thread silicone
    Satco PAR30 – thread silicone

    The small wire emerging near the edge of the plastic case seems to be the neutral contact to the shell, with a poor enough joint to suggest it might have been why the lamp flickered when it got hot.

    Some brute force snapped the silicone off at the bottom of the plastic case and broke the two wires bringing AC to the PCB:

    Satco PAR30 - thread silicone base
    Satco PAR30 – thread silicone base

    Digging around inside produced a debris field of silicone crumbs, broken resistors, torn caps, and various other components, with zero progress toward removing the shell:

    Satco PAR30 - silicone extraction
    Satco PAR30 – silicone extraction

    A little lathe work converted a chunk of PVC pipe into a crude mandrel supporting the mangled case:

    Satco PAR30 - base cutting setup
    Satco PAR30 – base cutting setup

    A few millimeters of sissy cuts released a silicone O-ring sealing the shell against the reflector:

    Satco PAR30 - O-ring seal
    Satco PAR30 – O-ring seal

    Continuing the cuts eventually revealed the three screws holding the shell to the reflector and the two wires powering the LED:

    Satco PAR30 - reflector separated
    Satco PAR30 – reflector separated

    Chopping off the screws with a diagonal cutter freed the shell and revealed the top of the PCB:

    Satco PAR30 - electronics top
    Satco PAR30 – electronics top

    It really does have a surprising number of components!

    Those three screws connected the LED panel / heatsink to the shell through the back of the double-walled reflector. More brute force peeled the outer shell away and released the panel:

    Satco PAR30 - lens assembly
    Satco PAR30 – lens assembly

    Each of the 5050 packages contains a pair of white LEDs with 5.2 V forward drop for the pair, at the very low test current. They’re all in series, so you’re looking at well over 60 V total forward drop:

    Satco PAR30 - LED panel detail
    Satco PAR30 – LED panel detail

    Note that the wiring, which nobody will ever see, follows the electrical color code of white = common and gray = hot.

    Perhaps I should turn the lens into an interesting art object

  • Pixel 3a Boot Failure

    Pixel 3a Boot Failure

    Attempting to rub a smudge off the phone’s screen while it was booting causes problems:

    Pixel 3a boot fail
    Pixel 3a boot fail

    Rebooting that sucker cleared the problem, so it wasn’t permanently fatal.

    Whew!

  • Miniblind Mounting Brackets: Version 4

    Miniblind Mounting Brackets: Version 4

    Miniblinds don’t last forever:

    Miniblind failure
    Miniblind failure

    The plastic frame failed at the pull cord opening, obviously a weak and, alas, non-repairable point.

    A quick trip to Lowe’s produced a new miniblind with mounting hardware completely different from the old one. This came as no surprise, as every new miniblind differs from all previous ones; miniblind mounting hardware is not strongly conserved.

    The broken frame fit into the plastic end caps mounted just beyond the scarred paint marking the bracket location required for the previous miniblind:

    Miniblind bracket - V3
    Miniblind bracket – V3

    Note that the caps mount with a single screw in the homebrew bracket’s face, which has two holes to match the previous-previous cap.

    Also note how the curved moulding strips around the 1955-era windows in this house do not fit any contemporary miniblind hardware, thus requiring Quality Shop Time with every installation.

    Although the shiny new hardware had two slots, they neither lined up with the existing bracket holes nor extended quite far enough vertically. I lined things up, marked and drilled a single midline hole in both the new hardware and the old bracket, and reused the old screw and nut:

    Miniblind bracket - V4 side
    Miniblind bracket – V4 side

    Moving the bracket back to its previous-previous location exposed the scarred paint under the previous position:

    Miniblind bracket - V4 front
    Miniblind bracket – V4 front

    Fortunately, it’s hidden by the installed miniblind.

    That was, all things considered, easy …