Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Draw a 42 mm circle, set the layer to cut corrugated cardboard, turn the circle into suitable arrays, flatten some boxes from the heap, and Fire the Laser:
Seedling starter pot bottoms
Collect the fallen disks from the chip tray and jam one in place as a serving suggestion, where it fits like it was custom-made:
TP roll seedling starter pot bottom
You’d still want to fold some flaps over the disk to keep it in place, but now your pot has a real bottom.
I have no idea if 42 mm is a Galactic Constant, but it worked for the pile of tubes we had on hand.
An unfortunate confluence of weather, schedule, and enthusiasm led to mowing all the yard in one session:
Mowing pattern – 2023-05-27
I managed to remember to pause the tracker during a break in the middle, so it’s really just shy of three wall-clock hours from start to finish. It’s amazing how much work you (well, I) can get out of 100 mg of caffeine.
Despite what you see here, the path on what’s euphemistically called “our lawn” show a much more organized solution to the problem of covering our property with non-overlapping foot-and-a-half stripes. As with my leaf-shredding track, I neither venture into the road nor mow the neighboring yards.
Spotted in a soon-to-be-rebuilt rest area on I-87 north of Kingston NY, a chandelier stuffed with old-school CFL bulbs of various vintages:
NYS I-87 Rest Area – CFL chandelier
The yellowish dome on the far right might still house an incandescent bulb, but I can’t tell from here.
Judging from the high color temperature and even illumination, the chandelier next to it has 16 newish LED bulbs:
NYS I-87 Rest Area – LED chandelier
What’s of interest: both chandeliers have two dead bulbs and, perhaps, the center floodlight of the LED fixture had died, too. We don’t know how long they’ve been in place, other than that the LEDs are certainly more recent, but a 6% failure rate is nothing to brag about.
From what I’ve seen, the reliability of both CFL and LED bulbs is greatly overstated and certainly do not justify preemptive replacement of a working bulb of any vintage.
Because the lamp has a big nut apparently holding the pole socket to the base, I figured a dab of threadlock on the pole or the base would solve the problem: lock the pole to the socket, then remove the nut to disassemble when needed. That turned out to be a Bad Idea™.
The socket is a plastic part separate from the base cover plate:
Miroco floor lamp base – socket
A pair of keys prevent the socket from rotating in the hole:
Miroco floor lamp base – socket in place
Four threaded bosses (two visible there) hold the rim of the cover to the weight, with the socket doing the hard work.
A fender washer atop the weight distributes stress from the pole:
Miroco floor lamp base – weight top washer
Another fender washer on the bottom of the weight lets the nut jam against steel, rather than soft plastic:
Miroco floor lamp base – weight bottom washer
FWIW, the nut is either a perfect 15/16 inch or, more likely, a sloppy 24 mm.
In any event, permanently locking the pole to that socket will also lock the pole to the base, with no way to dismantle the lamp when I must once again repair it.
Perhaps a wrap of PTFE tape on the threads will stiffen it enough?
The bathroom ceiling fixture has a nightlight position that we use occasionally, but eventually the little 7 W Christmas Tree bulb failed and I installed this hulk from a box of CFL bulbs a friend scrapped out after switching to LED bulbs:
MaxLite CFL – overview
I never tested whether it actually drew 3 W, but, hey I could feel good. Right? Right?
Anyhow, this one failed after a few years, too. The “bulb” envelope looked like it might make an attractive blinkie or glowie, so I decided to harvest it.
The candelabra screw base felt loose and popped off with a push:
MaxLite CFL – overflow cap
Perhaps they chose the envelope before finalizing the circuitry?
This is why you need a lathe in your shop:
MaxLite CFL – lathe cutting
It wasn’t particularly well centered, so that was done dead slow and finished with a few hand turns of the chuck. Obviously, I need a crank for the spindle.
The rest of the circuitry is pretty well packed under that tall cap:
MaxLite CFL – circuitry
Pulling the PCB out revealed the tube wiring:
MaxLite CFL – tube wires
Cut the wires and chuck it up again:
MaxLite CFL – envelope turning setup
Turn dead slow again until it breaks through:
MaxLite CFL – envelope breakthrough
Then finish by hand:
MaxLite CFL – tube and envelope
It’s too cute to throw out, but … sheesh you can see why recycling this stuff is so difficult.
For whatever it’s worth, I replaced it with a 3 W LED candelabra bulb that is way too bright.
Our Young Engineer knits during rare moments of downtime and sketched an idea for stitch counters to mark progress between those moments. There being nothing like a new project to take one’s mind off all of one’s previous projects:
Stitch Counters – overview
These are more along the lines of feasibility / material tests than finished products, so you’ll see plenty of rough edges.
Prior to doing this, we agreed that 3 mm material was probably too thick, particularly given the small scale: the hexagons are 10 mm edge-to-edge with a 1.5 mm hole for the jump ring.
The jump rings are (mostly) 8 mm OD, which may or may not be the right diameter for all possible knitting needles.
The count sequence goes 10 20 10 40 50 10 with alternating colors:
Stitch Counters – red and blue
Those came from 3 mm red and blue transparent acrylic, looking entirely too much like candy. Cutting two identical layouts from two different materials, then swapping a few counters, gives me two related-but-different sets. This idea is also subject to revision.
I like the set of 3 mm acrylic mirror counters colored with Sharpie:
Stitch Counters – mirror
Alas, the unprotected mirror backing won’t survive long in the real world and Sharpie ink tends to stress-crack the acrylic. Bonding a thin colored sheet / gel filter to the back with an adhesive sheet in between would work, although I don’t look forward to the fiddly alignment. Bonus: sticky edges are a nonstarter in this application.
A setup error produced a set of unmarked counters that might still come in handy for something:
PXL_20230507_150124595 – Stitch Counters – blue blank
Trolase acrylic 1/16 inch = 1.5 mm sheets produce the most visible legends, in a relentlessly industrial sort of way:
Stitch Counters – Trolase
Those have a single thin layer atop a white or black base sheet, but three-layer 1.5 mm Trolase sheets with matching top and bottom colors (cladding on a white core) would look better.
If you can’t decide on a color, go clear:
Stitch Counters – clear
All of those appear on a background of some thin DIY plywood:
Stitch Counters – veneer plywood sheets
The bottom sheet is very pale veneer that came with a layer of genuine 3M 468 transfer tape with 200MP adhesive. I stuck three different veneers on three 100×50 mm rectangles of the stuff to make 1.5 mm thick “plywood”. The adhesive sheet provides lateral strength, not the wood fibers, so it’s not quite as easy to tear as the broken fragment would suggest.
The results look passable, although there’s room for improvement:
Stitch Counters – veneer plywood
After engraving & cutting, I slathered them with clear polyurethane finish and hung them up to dry:
Stitch Counters – wood finish curing
I like the effect, but using the pale veneer for the bottom layer made them look identical from that side. Worse, two of the three top layer veneers had nearly identical colors (one has more grain) after the finish cured.
More thought seems in order, but at least I’ve explored some of the solution space.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 