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Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Sherline: Diamond Drag Engraving Tool Holder

Although I shouldn’t have used a hardened shaft for the case, the rest of the diamond drag tool holder worked out well enough:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - assembled
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – assembled

The dimension doodle shows what’s inside and gives some idea of the sizes:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - dimension doodles
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – dimension doodles

From left to right, it’s an M6×1.0 setscrew to adjust the spring preload, a spring harvested from a cheap clicky ballpoint pen, a machined cap, a 3 mm rod (which should be a hardened & ground shaft, but isn’t) surrounded by a pair of LM3UU linear bearings, a machined coupler, and the stub of a diamond engraving tool’s shank.

Tapping 15 mm of M6×1.0 thread inside of the case took an unreasonable amount of grunt. Next time, brass.

The setscrew gets a little boss to hold the spring away from the adjacent threads in the case:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - setscrew spring boss
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – setscrew spring boss

The little machined cap has a somewhat longer spring guide to prevent buckling:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - shank cap spring guide
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – shank cap spring guide

The spring fits snugly on the slightly enlarged section inside the last few coils, with the rest being a loose fit around the guide. When the spring is fully compressed, it’s just slightly longer than the guide and can’t buckle to either side.

The cap gets epoxied onto the 3 mm rod with some attention to proper alignment:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - shank cap alignment
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – shank cap alignment

The other end of the rod has a 3 mm thread, which would be a serious non-starter on a hardened rod.

The shortened diamond tool shank gets epoxied into the gizmo connecting it to the now-threaded rod, again with some attention paid to having it come out nicely coaxial:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - diamond tool alignment
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – diamond tool alignment

The LM3UU bearings got epoxied into the case, because I don’t have a deep emotional attachment to them.

Unscrew diamond tool, push spring onto cap, drop rod through bearings, crank setscrew more-or-less flush with the end of the case, screw diamond in place with some weak threadlock, add oil to rod, work it a few times to settle the bearings, and it’s all good.

A quick spring rate measurement setup, with a brass tube holding the diamond point off the scale pan:

Sherline Diamond Drag Holder - installed
Sherline Diamond Drag Holder – installed

The spring rate works out to 230 g + 33 g/mm for deflections between 1.0 mm (263 g) and 3.5 mm (346 g), so it’s in the same ballpark as the diamond tools on the MPCNC and CNC 3018.

Note: WordPress just “improved” their post editor, which has totally wrecked the image alignment. They’re all set to “centered” and the editor says they are, but they’re not. It’s a free blog and I’m using one of their ancient / obsolete / unsupported themes, so I must update the theme. Bleh.

Comments

10 responses to “Sherline: Diamond Drag Engraving Tool Holder”

  1. RCPete Avatar
    RCPete

    WordPress Delenda Est

    -RCP

    1. Ed Avatar

      I must devote a few days to screwing with themes / layouts / administrivia.

  2. Jason Doege Avatar
    Jason Doege

    Too late now, but for the future, could you have heated the shaft with a torch to get it softer?

    1. Ed Avatar

      Beats me. I think it starts out induction-heated through the outer few millimeters, then ground to make it into a nice cylinder, which means my ham-fisted annealing would probably produce a pretzel or peppermint stick …

    2. RCPete Avatar
      RCPete

      Sounds like a job for a programmable kiln. The O1 anneal cycle is straight-forward, but keeping the stock from rusting at temp would be a challenge*. Looks like the shafting would take about 10 hours of heating time in the kiln; not terribly high temperatures for the ceramics people, but the 25C/hour cool off cycle is a killer for manual methods.

      (*) I think this is where stainless tool wrap and a bit of paper to get the oxygen comes to play, but buying pre-annealed steel is going to be cheaper. I thought about it once, then priced the stainless. Nope. (Wonders if the small kiln is still working. Hasn’t been turned on in several years.)

      1. Ed Avatar

        Thanks for the analysis: now I know what I’m missing!

        Next time around, that brass rod’s definitely getting shortened.

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