On the drive side, of course:
I’d noticed some brake drag on our last few rides, but forgot to check until I saw the rim wobble while extracting images from the rear camera.
It’s a lot easier to fix in the Basement Shop than on the road. After nigh onto a decade since replacing the last broken spoke, perhaps this is a harbinger of doom to come.
Memo to Self: spoke tension is now 20-ish on the drive side, 15-ish on the left.
4 thoughts on “Broken Spoke”
Is the M20 your current preferred rear-facing camera (after the M20 vs Fly6 comparison)?
Yes, although the battery runtime is marginal and the UX terrible; losing the time-of-day while swapping batteries shows how badly they lost sight of the goal. The M20 is slightly better at capturing license plates, which is all I care about.
A year later, they’re obsolete and unobtainable, so I’d have to start all over again with a newer camera.
20-ish? 15-ish? What are the units? How is this measured?
The Park TM-1 Spoke Tension Meter has a 0 to 50 scale corresponding to spoke deflection under a known spring load. They include a chart to convert the deflection to tension in kgf, but I use the deflection to evenly tighten all the spokes or, in this case, match a replacement spoke with its neighbors.
One of those low duty cycle tools that’s invaluable when you (well, I) need it!
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