Improved Shoelace Ferrule Aglets

After considerable evaluation, the Customer decided the shoelaces were still too long and said the hex-crimped ferrules were entirely too rough and tended to snag on things. This time, I prepared the ferrules by chucking them in the lathe:

Ferrule - original flange
Ferrule – original flange

The steel rod inside the ferrule encourages it to remain round and not collapse while I’m filing off the flange that normally holds the plastic strain-relief doodad:

Ferrule - reshaped flange
Ferrule – reshaped flange

I snipped another half inch off each end of the laces and crimped on the prepared ferrules:

Shoelace ferrule aglets
Shoelace ferrule aglets

Which were definitely too jaggy, so they now sport an epoxy coat:

Ferrule aglets - epoxy coat
Ferrule aglets – epoxy coat

Alas, JB Kwik epoxy has a pot life measured in minutes, so the last ferrule looks a bit lumpy. They seem to work fine and the Customer is happy with the results.

Memo to Self: Next time, dunk the ferrules in a pot of slow-curing JB Weld and let them drain overnight.

9 thoughts on “Improved Shoelace Ferrule Aglets

  1. I faced the same issue with overlong laces (catching in the chain-ring makes a casual ride suddenly exciting) I left the original aglets and removed a length from the middle of the lace.

    1. For one pair of shoes with absurdly long laces, I threaded the middle of the laces up, through the loop on the tongue, and back down again. Looked and worked much better than the additional bow tie knot on the bottom I tried at first … [grin]

  2. Lathe-worked metal plus JB Weld might be overkill. If the need arises again try heat-shrink tubing. It is available at low cost in 2mm diameter. If desired, use a double thickness. Estimated work time: 15 minutes, start-to-finish.

    1. Been there, done that: heatstink lacks traction and slides right off. I thought of shrink tubing around epoxy, but decided to try ferrules. Obviously, things are completely out of hand …

  3. My weapon of choice is to wind clear Scotch tape around the end to get the wanted round shape (medium tight, don’t squeeze all the way), trim the tape to coincide with the end of the shoelace (Dyneema downhaul sheet in my case, but principle is the same) and add five drops or so of liquid CA glue. When glue sets, you can remove the tape or leave it be. Glue will prevent any fraying and as a bonus you get a rigid end to facilitate threading the lace through the grommets. Total time 2 minutes, no lathe or special tooling required… but no quality shop time either.

    1. Perhaps I could slide a brass tubing snippet over the end, add cyanoacrylate, and be done with it. It’d certainly look better than epoxy blobs …

      1. Extra points for steampunk look :)
        But CA alone is enough though.. from 5 feet away it looks shiny just as the OEM plastic ferulle

    1. Last time I tried that, it released The Big Stink and didn’t get all melty. Either it was a really fancy lace or a really cheap one, but … phew!

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