The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Sears Kenmore HE3 Washer Teardown: Shock Absorbers

    HE3 Washer Shock Absorber
    HE3 Washer Shock Absorber

    The instructions you’ll find elsewhere tell you to just twist the head of the shock absorber a quarter-turn to release it. That’ll probably work, although I think you’ll break the two locking clips that hold the head in place, after which you’re depending on friction to prevent the whole affair from shaking loose.

    The head is the small bump visible inside the white bracket on the tub. The locking clips are the tabs inside the square shape just under the bracket. It’s obvious when you see it, if you know what you’re looking for.

    The trick is to use a small screwdriver to pry the locking clips downward while twisting the head. This is impossibly awkward, but you can get one started, lever the other one out, and then both will suddenly slide free as the head turns.

    If you’ve removed the three concrete tub weights, the tub will rise up as you release each shock absorber. Mind your fingers!

  • Sears Kenmore HE3 Washer Teardown: Control Panel

    In order to get the drum out, you must remove the Control Panel and Top Front Brace

    Start by unplugging the ribbon cable from the side of the Machine Control Microcomputer. Note the cute little latch holding the connector plug in place. Things will not go well with you if you break that latch off; the plug will vibrate loose.

    Control Panel plug at Machine Control unit
    Control Panel plug at Machine Control unit

    Unthread the ribbon cable from the clips all the way around the rear and right side of the washer body.

    The Control Panel has three mechanical attachments:

    Remove the screw behind detergent drawer on far left. Put the drawer in a tray so it doesn’t drool all over the place.

    Control Panel - left screw
    Control Panel – left screw

    Unsnap latch inside the washer body on far right. By now you’ve removed the top, so just reach inside and shove the tab over a bit to the right to release the latch.

    Control Panel - right-side latch
    Control Panel – right-side latch

    Unsnap latch in the middle. This one baffled me, but all you must do is push upward with a screwdriver (or maybe a dowel) inside the notch on the bottom of the Control Panel Cover directly above the middle of the door opening.

    Control Panel - center latch
    Control Panel – center latch

    Then feed the ribbon cable through the opening.

    Now you can get to the screws that hold the Front Panel in place. Don’t remove those until you disconnect the Bellow that seals the Tub to the Panel and unhook the Door Lock assembly.

  • Sears Kenmore HE3 Washer Teardown: Toe Panel

    It turns out you can get access to the extractor pump from the front of the washer, without having to take the back off and reach all the way through. If any of the problems we’ve ever had with the washer could have been fixed just by reaching into the pump, that’d be nice to know.

    Remove three Torx T-20 screws at the very bottom of the lower front panel, known as the Toe Panel, and it drops right out.

    If you have something jammed in the pump, you can put a tray underneath, unscrew the obvious plug, and bloosh water all over the place. I don’t know how you’d know you had something in jammed in the pump, but that’s how you get to it.

    Pump access from Toe Panel
    Pump access from Toe Panel

    In our case, the junk was spread all through the washer

  • Sears Kenmore HE3 Washer Drum: The Rot

    Corroded Aluminum Spider - Overview
    Corroded Aluminum Spider – Overview

    Our Kenmore HE3 washer emitted a dramatic KLONK that had all hands racing for the Cancel button. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing, some Web searching, and a few hours of teardown, I determined that the washer had failed in the usual HE3 way: the cast aluminum spider connecting the back of the lah-dee-dah stainless steel drum to the shaft had corroded and fractured.

    Now, class, let’s review our chemistry. What do we call a pair of dissimilar metals in an ionic solution?

    Very good. Can you spell “battery”?

    Bonus points: what happens to the battery electrodes as the current flows?

    Excellent! I’m sure you can spell “corrosion”, too.

    The stuff that looks (and feels!) like cheese is aluminum corrosion filling every nook & cranny in the back of the spider. The fact that the drum spins at 900 rpm tells you it’s rather tenacious gunk, but evidently we’ve been washing our clothes in corrosion products for several years.

    If you have a Sears or Whirlpool HE washer, so are you.

    Mary noticed the washer made a strange noise during the spin parts of the cycle, starting a few weeks ago, but it wasn’t anything you’d tear down the washer to diagnose. I’ll have more to say about that in a bit.

    The KLONK happened when a third fracture finally disconnected the drum from the shaft and it started whacking against the outer tub. All that’s holding the shaft in place is the remaining thickness of the spider casting and the interlocking fracture pattern; I can move the shaft, but not easily.

    Here are closeups of the three sections near the hub between the arms. Anything that looks like a crack really is one…

    Corroded Spider - Fracture 1
    Corroded Spider – Fracture 1

    The next section has a nice crack running along the circumference, too…

    Corroded Spider - Fracture 2
    Corroded Spider – Fracture 2

    And the third section…

    Corroded Spider - Fracture 3
    Corroded Spider – Fracture 3

    I hauled it to the driveway and hosed off the corrosion. There isn’t supposed to be that little hole where the sun shines through…

    Corroded Spider - After Rinsing
    Corroded Spider – After Rinsing

    The washer is six years old and cost $1100 new.

    Needless to say, We Are Not Amused.

    More on this as I sort things out. Search for HE3 and you’ll find more than you want to know (at least after I’ve gotten it posted).

  • Aztek Brake Pad Inserts: Glazing Thereof

    Went on a ride around the block and after about 4 miles discovered I had no rear brakes. Well, the brakes were there and doing the right mechanical things, but without much friction.

    Did an expedient repair by squeezing strips of paper between the pads and the rim, then rolling the wheel. Came out black and graphite-looking, not oily, but didn’t improve the braking.

    Rolled the bike into the shop after the ride; 23 miles without a rear brake gets my immediate attention. Wiped a lot of black graphite-looking schmutz off the rim using denatured alcohol, filed the well-glazed pads to a nice finish, and reinstalled.

    These are Aztek pad inserts, which I’m trying out to see how they work. So far, not much; they seem less grippy than the ordinary Aztek pads (on the front and previously on the back) and certainly much more prone to glazing.

    Memo to Self: 7792 on the odometer.

  • Water Bottle Spring Cap Repair

    One of our nice aluminum water bottles hit the floor and, of course, the tiny little hinge shattered. It’s some wonderful engineering plastic, but just look at the leverage you can apply to those few millimeters of material. This is the sort of repair that can’t possibly be economically justified, but it pisses me right off when something that should be rugged turns out to be this fragile.

    The 2 mm steel hinge pin snapped the molded plastic center post of the hinge off the cap; we found the larger fragment, but the smaller one may lurk under the refrigerator for quite some time. Nothing bonds to this plastic and, if the post broke in the first place, adhesive isn’t going to help.

    Broken hinge
    Broken hinge

    Some doodling showed that a replacement hinge post should be machineable. The general idea was to square up the remaining chunk of the post, then attach a replacement hinge pivot with a screw. The post is almost exactly 1/4-inch thick, call it 6.2 mm, which means the right-angle feature under the pivot ought to keep the whole affair from twisting.

    Water Bottle Hinge
    Water Bottle Hinge

    I planned to leave the left side unmachined and cut it to fit by hand, but then figured, eh, just make it happen. I also expected to leave the area around the screw a lot thicker, with a neat counterbore around the head.

    This being a bash-to-fit, file-to-hide kind of project, I wrote a snippet of G-Code (at the bottom of the post) to chew out the part from a sheet of Lexan, then did the perpendicular hole & countersinking with manual CNC.

    No pix of that; I was working in a white-hot fury. Basically, I double-sticky-taped a slab of Lexan to a sacrificial sheet, clamped it to the tooling plate, and had at it with a 2 mm end mill. Cutting a 6.4 mm sheet with a 2 mm end mill is a bit iffy, as the flutes are just barely that long; the mill was armpit-deep in swarf and I was dribbling water into the cut to keep it cool.

    By the time I stopped for a picture, the situation looked like this.

    Replacement hinge part
    Replacement hinge part

    For what it’s worth, that’s the second part. I had to lower the screw head below the top of the half-round feature on the left end in order to clear the cap. That’s what CNC is really good for in my shop: make another one, just like the other one, only different exactly like that.

    I drilled a #50 (2-56 tap) hole in the cap pretty much by eye, using laser targeting to touch off.

    Laser aligning to hinge stub
    Laser aligning to hinge stub

    The hole wound up minutely too far inboard, but some filing cleaned up the stub edge and it was all good. I started the tap in the mill, held loosely in the chuck and turning it with my fingers, then finished up on the bench.

    The screw hole goes all the way through the cap. I filed the screw down so the end sits flush at the bottom of the cap, where the silicone rubber gasket should seal firmly against it.

    Here’s what the hinge looks like with all the bits assembled. The spring bears on the screw head, which makes the cap open with more snap than before. I put a little counterbore under the screw head, even after lowering it, to reduce the spring tension.

    Rebuilt hinge
    Rebuilt hinge

    The cap has a spring-loaded latch that never worked very well in the first place and this repair didn’t improve it. As nearly as I can tell, the molded ledge on the cap has a rounded edge that the latch simply cannot engage. This is beyond even my level of interest; Mary was accustomed to using the wire snap to hold the cap closed and that practice will continue.

    Works well enough for us and I got some Quality Shop Time on a rainy afternoon.

    The G-Code uses a slightly modified & simplified version of the tool length probe routines. I’m not convinced that using the G59.3 coordinate system is the right way to go, but everything else seems worse.

    
    (Water bottle hinge repair)
    (Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - June 2010)
    (Rough-cut 1/4-inch plate with clamp at +Y)
    (Sacrificial plate below, double-stick tape to secure)
    (Tool change @ G30 position above length probe)
    
    (-- Global dimensions & locations)
    
    #<_Stock_Thick> =        6.5                    (overall thickness)
    
    #<_Traverse_Z> =        1.0
    #<_Safe_Z> =            30.0                (clamp clearance)
    
    (-- Section controls)
    
    #<_Do_Outline> =    1
    #<_Do_Drill> =        1
    
    (-------------------)
    (-- Initialize new tool length at probe switch)
    (    Assumes G59.3 is still in machine units, returns in G54)
    
    #<_Probe_Speed> =        250            (set for something sensible in mm or inch)
    #<_Probe_Retract> =        1            (ditto)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> SUB
    
    G49                    (clear tool length compensation)
    G30                    (to probe switch)
    G59.3                (coord system 9)
    
    G38.2 Z0 F#<_Probe_Speed>        (trip switch on the way down)
    
    G91
    G0 Z#<_Probe_Retract>            (back off the switch)
    G90
    
    G38.2 Z0 F[#<_Probe_Speed> / 10]    (trip switch slowly)
    
    #<_ToolZ> = #5063                    (save new tool length)
    
    G43.1 Z[#<_ToolZ> - #<_ToolRefZ>]    (set new length)
    
    G54
    G30                    (return to safe level)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> ENDSUB
    
    (-------------------)
    (-- Initialize first tool length at probe switch)
    
    O<Probe_Init> SUB
    
    #<_ToolRefZ> = 0.0        (set up for first call)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    #<_ToolRefZ> = #5063    (save trip point)
    
    G43.1 Z0                (tool entered at Z=0, so set it there)
    
    O<Probe_Init> ENDSUB
    
    (-------------------)
    
    (-- Get started ...)
    
    G40 G49 G54 G80 G90 G92.1 G94 G97 G98        (reset many things)
    
    M5
    
    (msg,Verify clamp to +Y, stock taped down)
    M0
    
    (msg,Verify X=0 at left edge, Y=0 on finished centerline)
    M0
    
    (msg,Verify tool touched off at Z=0 on surface)
    M0
    
    O<Probe_Init> CALL
    
    T0 M6                            (ensure first tool change pauses)
    
    (-- Drill the hinge pin hole)
    
    #<Pin_X> =                7.0
    #<Pin_Y> =                0.0
    
    #<Drill_Dia> =            2.06    (Drill diameter)
    #<Drill_Num> =            46        (Drill number)
    #<Tool_Num> =            146        (Tool number)
    #<Drill_Radius> =        [#<Drill_Dia> / 2]
    #<Drill_RPM> =            3000
    #<Drill_Feed> =         [#<Drill_Dia> * 100]
    
    #<Drill_Depth> =        [#<_Stock_Thick> + 2 * #<Drill_Dia>]
    
    O<Doing_Drill> IF [#<_Do_Drill>]
    
    (debug,Insert Num #<Drill_Num> drill)
    T#<Tool_Num> M6
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    (debug,Set spindle to #<Drill_RPM>)
    M0
    
    F#<Drill_Feed>
    
    G0 Z#<_Traverse_Z>
    
    G83 X#<Pin_X> Y#<Pin_Y> Z[0 - #<Drill_Depth>] R#<_Traverse_Z> Q[2 * #<Drill_Dia>]
    
    O<Doing_Drill> ENDIF
    
    (-- Mill outline)
    
    #<Hinge_Radius> =        3.75                        (half-width of hinge body)
    #<Cutout_Base> =        2.75
    
    #<Cutout_Screw> =        1.50
    #<Cutout_Screw_Y> =        [#<Hinge_Radius> - #<Cutout_Screw>]
    #<Cutout_Screw_A> =        ASIN [#<Cutout_Screw_Y> / #<Hinge_Radius>]
    #<Cutout_Screw_X> =        [#<Hinge_Radius> * COS [#<Cutout_Screw_A>]]
    
    #<Passes> =                3
    
    #<Mill_Dia> =            1.98            (end mill diameter)
    #<Tool_Num> =            20
    #<Mill_Radius> =        [#<Mill_Dia> / 2]
    #<Mill_RPM> =            3000
    #<Mill_Feed> =            100
    
    #<Entry_XL> =            [0 - #<Mill_Dia>]
    #<Entry_YL> =            [0 - 2 * #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    O<Doing_Outline> IF [#<_Do_Outline>]
    
    (debug,Insert #<Mill_Dia> mm end mill)
    T#<Tool_Num> M6
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    
    (debug,Set spindle to #<Mill_RPM>)
    M0
    
    F#<Mill_Feed>
    
    G0 X0 Y[0 - 2 * #<Hinge_Radius>]    (get to comp entry point)
    G0 Z#<_Traverse_Z>
    
    G42.1 D#<Mill_Dia>                                    (cutter comp right)
    G1 X#<Pin_X> Y[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    #<Step_Z> = [#<_Stock_Thick> / #<Passes>]
    #<Current_Z> = [0 - #<Step_Z>]
    
    O<Outline_Passes> REPEAT [#<Passes>]
    
    G2 J[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>] Z#<Current_Z>                (ramp down to cutting level)
    
    G3 Y#<Hinge_Radius> J#<Hinge_Radius>
    G3 X[#<Pin_X> - #<Cutout_Screw_X>] Y#<Cutout_Screw_Y> J[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    G1 X0
    G1 Y[0 - [#<Hinge_Radius> - #<Cutout_Base>]]
    G1 X#<Pin_X>
    G1 Y[0 - #<Hinge_Radius>]
    
    #<Current_Z> = [#<Current_Z> - #<Step_Z>]
    
    O<Outline_Passes> ENDREPEAT
    
    G0 Z#<_Safe_Z>
    
    G40
    
    O<Doing_Outline> ENDIF
    
    G30                    (back to tool change position)
    
    (msg,Done!)
    
    M2
    
  • CycleAware Mirror Repair

    Original CycleAware Attachment
    Original CycleAware Attachment

    While installing the audio gear on our bike helmets, I found a defunct CycleAware Reflex helmet mirror in the big box o’ bike stuff.

    This pic shows that the mirror attaches to the boom through a clever ball joint that allows both rotation around the mirror’s long axis and a slight amount of tilt. Unfortunately, after a few years, the ball stem breaks and at least one of the socket petals snaps. It’s a nice  plastic design that’s totally unsuited to a few years of more-or-less daily bicycle travel.

    The repair was easy enough, particularly because I think the boom has enough adjustment range to handle the job on its own (and I don’t care about how it looks). I filed off the stem stub and milled a slot for a 2-56 machine screw along the back edge.

    Milling slot for screw
    Milling slot for screw

    Then you just slide a brass tube from the cutoff box over the end of the boom around some JB Weld epoxy, shove the screw into the blob, align the mirror with the boom, and let it cure.

    Reinforced attachment
    Reinforced attachment

    Although it’s not shown here, the helmet attachment is aligned with the mirror at right angles to the helmet bracket. That puts it in roughly the proper position with the boom bent as usual.

    I don’t actually plan to use this one for anything, but if I need a somewhat scuffed mirror in a pinch, well, it’s in the box!