The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Leach Field Pipe Plug

    A bit of laparoscopic surgery on the front yard unearthed the drain line from the septic tank to the leach field. Drilling a 1-1/2 inch hole in the top of the pipe revealed that it’s 3/4 full of sludge, which is a Bad Thing: the leach field should get only liquid from the middle of the septic tank.

    On the other paw, the house was built a bit over half a century ago and the records that came with it showed the tank was pumped two decades before we arrived. So it goes.

    Rather than leave the hole in the pipe open until we get a new drain field, I built a plug that fit the 5 inch OD drain pipe and the 1-1/2 inch drilled hole.

    Plug on aluminum plate
    Plug on aluminum plate

    The aluminum build plate produces a smooth surface that’s entirely irrelevant on this part. The ABS film covers the blind hole in the middle that will serve as a drill guide in the unlikely event I must remove the plug.

    Pipe plug - bottom view
    Pipe plug – bottom view

    I’ll admit it looks a bit out of place down there, though. I slobbered urethane adhesive around the central pillar and across the saddle, plugged it in, put a rock on top, and the adhesive foamed into a sludge-tight seal. At least I hope that’s how it worked out; I’m not going to pop it off just to find out.

    Pipe plug in position
    Pipe plug in position

    The solid model looks about like you’d expect:

    Leach Pipe Plug Solid model
    Leach Pipe Plug Solid model

    Never let it be said that a Thing-O-Matic lacks practical applications…

    The OpenSCAD source:

    // Plug for septic drain field pipe hole
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - Mar 2011
    
    include </home/ed/Thing-O-Matic/lib/MCAD/units.scad>
    
    // Extrusion values
    
    ThreadThickness = 0.33;
    ThreadWT = 1.75;
    ThreadWidth = ThreadThickness * ThreadWT;
    
    HoleWindage = ThreadWidth;			// enlarge hole dia by extrusion width
    
    // Pipe dimensions
    
    PipeOD = 5 * inch;					// which is *4* inch cast iron pipe
    PipeWall = (3/8) * inch;
    PipeID = PipeOD - 2*PipeWall;
    
    PipeLength = 2*PipeOD;				// for ease of viewing
    
    HoleDia = (1 + 1/2) * inch;			// from a 1-1/2 inch hole saw
    
    PatchOD = 2*HoleDia;
    PatchThick = 10.0;					// a burly patch for a big old pipe
    
    DrillDia = (1/4) * inch;			// pilot hole for removal, just in case
    
    // Convenience settings
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;					// extend holes beyond surfaces for visibility
    
    // The central plug
    
    module PlugBody() {
      difference() {
    	cylinder(r=HoleDia/2,h=(PipeOD/2 + PatchThick));
    	rotate([90,90,0])
    	  cylinder(r=PipeID/2,h=PipeLength,center=true);
      }
    }
    
    // The shell on the pipe
    
    module PlugShell() {
      difference() {
    	cylinder(r=PatchOD/2,h=(PipeOD/2 + PatchThick));
    	rotate([90,90,0])
    	  cylinder(r=PipeOD/2,h=PipeLength,center=true);
      }
    }
    
    // Build it, with rotate/translate to put it flat on its back
    
    rotate([0,180,0])
      translate([0,0,-(PipeOD/2 + PatchThick)])
    	difference() {
    	  union() {
    		PlugBody();
    		PlugShell();
    	  }
    	  translate([0,0,PipeOD/2])
    		cylinder(r=DrillDia/2,h=(PatchThick + Protrusion));
    	}
    
  • ABP Connector Chafing

    At one point along the way, the Control Panel reported the ABP temperature as 1024 °C, which seemed excessive. A bit of poking around revealed this situation on the ABP connector:

    Overheated and chafed ABP connector
    Overheated and chafed ABP connector

    The connector just barely clears the top of the X axis homing switch board and the loose wires tended to rub on the top of the cable connector. I’d been meaning to fix that for a while, but now I had a real reason.

    A bit of soldering and some self-vulcanizing tape later:

    Strain relief on ABP connector
    Strain relief on ABP connector

    Also: notice the discoloration on the connector shell surrounding the Black wire? That’s the contact leading back to the MOSFET from the platform heater: a single pin carrying far more than its rated current. The shell around the contact on the Red wire (which carries the same current) isn’t discolored, which suggests the Black connector is a bit loose / poorly crimped / whatever. It looked OK to me, so I left it alone.

    While I had the cable on the bench, I added a set of those right-angle pins to eliminate the risk of loose wire ends getting into the wrong places.

    Terminated ABP cable
    Terminated ABP cable
  • Vacuum Cleaner Hose Disintegration

    The hose on our aging Samsung Quiet Jet (used to be a Quiet Storm, but I suspect they lost a trademark fight) vacuum cleaner has been a constant nuisance. Most recently, the end toward the handle began splitting:

    Splitting vacuum hose
    Splitting vacuum hose

    The fix consisted of a tight duct tape wrap, which has absolutely nothing to recommend it other than expediency.

    When the same thing happened on the other end, I sealed it up and added a length of husky heatshrink tubing.

    Strain relief on vacuum hose
    Strain relief on vacuum hose

    The flared end isn’t particularly decorative, but it serves to reduce the strain on the hose. Alas, there’s no practical way to do the same thing on the handle end.

    The replacement cost for the hose roughly equals a new vacuum, so when we run out of bags, this one gets harvested for the shop’s Parts Heap.

  • Monthly Aphorism: On Improvements

    • You can rub and you can rub, but you can’t shine shit.

    Eks tells me that was one of his grandmother’s favorite sayings.

    He introduced me to the concept of a “used-car polish”: high shine over deep scratches. Sometimes, that’s exactly what the job requires.

    There’s also the notion of making a silk purse from a sow’s ear (attributed variously to Jonathan Swift and Anon), which someone actually did: render the ear down to a gel, extrude thread, loom cloth, and sew up a purse. Yes, it can be done, but there’s a practical limit in there somewhere.

    Contrary to what you might think, this has nothing to do with a certain Thing-O-Matic. A bit of laparoscopic surgery on our front yard just revealed that our septic leach field has filled with gunk; it’s 56 years old and hadn’t been pumped for two decades before we bought the place. The next week or two should be interesting: I can do the diagnosis, but I can’t handle this repair.

  • More Alkaline Battery Corrosion

    The X10 RF Remote Control in the kitchen stopped working, which could mean only one thing: a set of dead AAA cells.

    A negative terminal in the battery compartment showed the expected corrosion:

    X10 Remote battery terminals
    X10 Remote battery terminals

    The corrosion evidently pushed the cell away from the terminal just enough to starve the remote.

    The cells, on the other paw, looked just fine:

    Battery negative terminals
    Battery negative terminals

    They’d been in there a year, sported a date code that’s still a few years in the future, and had a 1.3 V loaded output. Looks like that little bit of corrosion gave me enough of a heads-up to get the cells out before they rotted.

     

  • Tire Liner Abrasion

    Just fixed a flat on my bike which, like that one, came from the tire liner chewing through the tube. The holes are above the raised 28″ molded into the tube, at the upper-left corner of the tire liner impression.

    Schwalbe tube with tire liner abrasion
    Schwalbe tube with tire liner abrasion

    In this case, the tire liner (which, judging from the color, was a Slime) was too short by maybe 50 mm. This view inside the tire shows a 10 mm gap where the ends didn’t overlap as they should:

    Schwalbe Maration tire with liner abrasion
    Schwalbe Maration tire with liner abrasion

    I don’t trim the rear-tire  liners, but comparing a handful in the drawer shows that the as-sold lengths differ by a few tens of millimeters. The Marathons are husky tires, but the tread OD isn’t all that much different from stock tires: that’s the definition of a 700-series tire.

    That we’re getting repeated flats from tire liners intended to eliminate flats is, mmmm, disturbing. Looking at the condition of the tire treads, however, shows we’re not getting an order of magnitude more flats from road debris, so it’s a net win. I doubt we could get through a month of riding without a flat; I replace tires when the carcasses accumulate enough gashes that the tire liners begin extruding through the tread.

    Also, remember that these samples come from three bikes that travel upwards of 2000 miles a year (each!), not just one bike ridden along a nice rail trail on weekends…

  • LED Floodlight Rehabilitation

    I picked up a pair of 12 V 4 W 3-LED floodlights (datasheet, newer datasheet, and catalog) with 34 degree and 24 degree beams from All Electronics, with the intent of making some task lighting fixtures for the shop. Somebody decommissioned the lamps by snipping off a pin, so they’re not immediately useful.

    The back pulls off with a bit of difficulty, after removing the two obvious screws and holding the connector body in place while pulling. I didn’t try to remove the circuit board, which would require unsoldering the clearly marked Anode and Cathode LED wires that enter from the bottom of the board.

    LED Floodlight - interior
    LED Floodlight – interior

    I plan to build these lamps right into the fixtures, so soldering a wire directly onto the pin makes sense; I expect they’ll outlast my usage and a socket won’t add any value. As an intermediate step, I soldered a short brass tube onto the pin stump:

    LED Floodlight - repaired pin
    LED Floodlight – repaired pin

    In new condition, these retail somewhere beyond $60, so cutting 6 mm from one pin shaved about fifty bucks off the price. I suspect they were extracted from somebody’s shiny new, recently abandoned, and probably foreclosed, office complex and were ruined to prevent resale-as-new. The fact that the reflectors got a bit scuffed up along the way wouldn’t help their value any, either.

    They draw 330-odd mA from a 12 V supply, run from AC or DC (either polarity), and seem to have a constant-current driver inside. I wouldn’t buy ’em new, but for eight bucks a pop they’re a pretty good deal.