The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

  • Xubuntu 12.04: Forcing Monitor DPI Settings

    For whatever reason, X no longer automagically determines the dots/inch value for the right-hand portrait monitor and, for lack of anything better, defaults to 75 DPI. That scales everything down by 25% 33%, makes the menu fonts eye-crackingly small, and squinches the monospaced terminal font. The fix requires jamming the proper value directly into /etc/X11/xorg.conf along with all the other stuff:

    Section "Monitor"
        # HorizSync source: edid, VertRefresh source: edid
        Identifier     "Dell2005FP"
        VendorName     "Dell"
        ModelName      "DELL 2005FPW"
        HorizSync       30.0 - 83.0
        VertRefresh     56.0 - 75.0
        Option         "DPMS"
        Option         "DPI" "98x98"
    EndSection
    

    One could calculate the actual value, but that matches what X determines for the left-hand landscape monitor.

    And then it Just Works…

  • Battery Terminal Corrosion: Endpoint

    So the outdoor thermometer hanging over my desk became very, very faint, which suggested it was time for a new alkaline cell. The last time that happened, the insides were pretty bad, so I expected the worst, but, surprisingly, neither the cell nor the negative contact spring were corroded. So I popped in a new cell, buttoned it up, and … it didn’t work. At all. As in: blank display.

    Taking the back off revealed the simple cause:

    Outdoor thermometer - corroded battery lead
    Outdoor thermometer – corroded battery lead

    Evidently, the negative terminal wire had corroded completely through and popped off when I replaced the cell. There’s plenty of green-blue corrosion on the terminal inside the case, where it can’t be seen from outside; three years ago I cleaned up both the outside and inside, so this is new news.

    The negative wire was discolored all the way from end to end and couldn’t be soldered. I think the corrosion products are just slightly hygroscopic and wick their way along the copper strands inside the insulation: the solder pad on the circuit board was also discolored.

    I removed the terminal, neutralized the alkaline corrosion, ran it through an Evapo-Rust bath, scrubbed it clean, installed it, replaced both the positive and negative wires, resoldered everything, and it works perfectly again.

    This can’t go on, can it?

     

  • Whirlpool Refrigerator: Replacement Freezer Shelf Bracket

    Somehow, one of the brackets that supports the small shelf inside the freezer of our Whirlpool refrigerator went missing over the many intervening years and repairs; we never used that shelf and stashed it in a closet almost immediately after getting the refrigerator, so not having the bracket didn’t matter. We recently set up a chest freezer in the basement for all the garden veggies that used to fill all the space available and decided to (re-)install the shelf, which meant we needed a bracket.

    It’s impossible to figure out exactly which “shelf stud” in that list would solve the problem, but one of the upper-left pair in that set seems to be about right. On the other paw, I don’t need all the other brackets and doodads and screws, sooo… I can probably make one.

    Start with a few measurements, then doodle up the general idea:

    Refrigerator Bracket - dimension doodle
    Refrigerator Bracket – dimension doodlet’s time to conjure up a solid model:

    A bit of OpenSCAD solid modeling:

    Refrigerator Bracket Pin - solid model
    Refrigerator Bracket Pin – solid model

    The yellow bars support the ceiling of that big dovetail, which would otherwise sag badly. The OEM bracket has nicely rounded corners on the base and a bit of an overall radius at the end of the post; this was pretty close and easier to do.

    Now it’s time to Fire the Thing-O-Matic…

    I switched from blue to white filament during the print, because I figured I’d print another one after I got the sizes right, so it emerged with an attractive blue base:

    Bracket on build platform
    Bracket on build platform

    A better view of the support structure:

    Bracket - dovetail support structure
    Bracket – dovetail support structure

    Two of the bars snapped off cleanly, but the third required a bit of scraping:

    Bracket - support scars
    Bracket – support scars

    Somewhat to my surprise, Prototype 001 slipped snugly over the matching dovetail on the freezer wall, with about the same firm fit as the OEM brackets:

    Refrigerator bracket - installed
    Refrigerator bracket – installed

    And it works perfectly, apart from that attractive blue base that I suppose we’ll get used to after a while:

    Refrigerator bracket - in use
    Refrigerator bracket – in use

    I have no idea whether ABS is freezer-rated. It seems strong enough and hasn’t broken yet, so we’ll declare victory and keep the source code on tap.

    The whole project represents about an hour of hammering out OpenSCAD code for the solid model and another hour of printing, which means I’d be better off to just buy the parts kit and throw away the unused bits. Right?

    I loves me my Thing-O-Matic…

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Shelf support bracket
    // for Whirlpool freezer
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU Octoboer 2012
    
    //include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/MCAD/units.scad>
    //include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/Useful Sizes.scad>
    
    // Layout options
    
    Layout = "Build";
     // Overall layout: Show Build
     // Printing plates: Build
     // Parts: Post Base Keystone Support
    
    ShowGap = 10; // spacing between parts in Show layout
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    // Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    PostLength = 17.5;
    PostWidth = 8.2;
    PostHeight = 14.4;
    PostOffset = 4.4;
    
    PostTopWidth = 4.0;
    PostTopHeight = 4.2;
    
    BaseLength = 22.6;
    BaseWidth = 20.8;
    BaseThick = 5.0;
    
    KeystoneOffset = 3.4;
    KeyThick = IntegerMultiple(3.0,ThreadThick);
    KeyBase = 2.5;
    SlotOpening = 11.63;
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
     h=Height,
     $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
     Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
     for (x=[-Range:Range])
     for (y=[-Range:Range])
     translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
     %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Component parts
    
    //--- Post
    
    module Post(h=PostLength) {
    
    PostTopAngle = atan((PostWidth - PostTopWidth)/(2*PostTopHeight));
    PostBottomRadius = PostWidth/2;
    
    PostPolyTop = [PostTopWidth/2,0];
    PostPolyBottom = [PostWidth/2,-PostTopHeight];
    
    hull() {
     linear_extrude(height=h) {
     polygon(points=[
     [-PostPolyTop[0],PostPolyTop[1]],
     PostPolyTop,
     PostPolyBottom,
     [-PostPolyBottom[0],PostPolyBottom[1]]
     ]);
     translate([0,-PostHeight + PostBottomRadius])
     circle(r=PostBottomRadius,$fn=4*8);
     }
     }
    }
    
    //--- Base block
    
    module Base() {
    
     linear_extrude(height=BaseThick)
     square([BaseWidth,BaseLength],center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-- Keystone slot
    
    module Keystone() {
    
    Tx = SlotOpening/2 + KeyBase;
    
     rotate([90,0,0])
     linear_extrude(height=BaseLength)
     polygon(points=[
     [-Tx,KeyThick],
     [ Tx,KeyThick],
     [ SlotOpening/2,0],
     [ SlotOpening/2,-Protrusion],
     [-SlotOpening/2,-Protrusion],
     [-SlotOpening/2,0]
     ]);
    }
    
    //--- Support structure
    
    module Support() {
    
    SupportLength = BaseLength - 2*ThreadWidth;
    SupportWidth = 2*ThreadWidth;
    SupportHeight = KeyThick - Protrusion;
    
    SupportPeriod = 7.0*ThreadWidth;
    
    SupportBeams = 3; // must be odd -- choose to fit
    SIndex = floor((SupportBeams - 1)/2);
    
    for (i=[-SIndex:SIndex])
     translate([(i*SupportPeriod - SupportWidth/2),-(SupportLength + ThreadWidth),0])
     color("Yellow") cube([SupportWidth,SupportLength,SupportHeight]);
    }
    
    //--- The whole thing!
    
    module Bracket(ShowSupp) {
    
     union() {
     difference() {
     Base();
     translate([0,(BaseLength/2 - KeystoneOffset),0])
     Keystone();
     }
     translate([0,(BaseLength/2 - PostOffset),BaseThick - Protrusion])
     Post(h=(PostLength + Protrusion));
     }
    
     if (ShowSupp)
     translate([0,(BaseLength/2 - KeystoneOffset),0])
     Support();
    
    }
    
    //----------------------
    // Build it!
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show")
     Bracket(false);
    
    if (Layout == "Build")
     Bracket(true);
    
    if (Layout == "Post")
     Post();
    
    if (Layout == "Base")
     Base();
    
    if (Layout == "Keystone")
     Keystone();
    
    if (Layout == "Support") {
     Support();
    % Keystone();
    }
    
  • Philips Sonicare: Replacement Battery Life

    After that rebuild, the first five recharges went like this: 21, 21, 21, 23, and 20 days. The last interval included seven days of vacation, during which the battery suffered just the usual self-discharge common to NiMH cells.

    That’s about what the OEM battery delivered, back when it was new, so the new 600 mA·h cells seem to be about the right capacity. Obviously, the end of the OEM battery wasn’t nearly so pretty.

    In round numbers, the wireless charger requires one hour to restore the energy drawn by one two-minute brushing: the thing charges for about 21 hours. There’s additional loss from three weeks of self-discharge in there: if 7 days of non-use = 1 brushing, then the usual 21 days = 3 brushings -> 14% loss due to self-discharge.

    I’d take a large grain of salt with those numbers…

  • Coopers Hawk

    Coopers Hawk atop pine tree
    Coopers Hawk atop pine tree

    This looks like a juvenile Cooper’s Hawk, perched high atop that tree. It seems the pair we spotted last year had a successful hatching!

    We always wish “our” hawks, whatever and wherever they may be, good hunting…

    This came from the first set of real pictures using the repaired Sony DSC-H5 zoomed to 12× with the 1.7× tele conversion lens, cropped down a bit: plenty of artifacts to choose from.

  • Canon S630 Printer vs. bj8XXYYZ.upp Printer Driver

    For quite some time, the Canon S630 printer connected to the file server downstairs has been printing some documents in what looks like garbled reverse video: all of the text areas render as white characters on a black background, with peculiar graphic gibberish filling the space to the right margin. I’d provide a picture, but it wouldn’t be too informative; suffice it to say that if I wasn’t using bulk ink the pages would cost about a buck each.

    Printing documents with two-up pages (two document pages on one paper sheet) generally resulted in the first sheet coming out garbled with the remainder emerging unscathed, but sometimes I found an entire stack of black paper. Ouch!

    This usually affected documents printed from Web pages, but sometimes clobbered pure PDF documents. Given that Linux printing involves multiple transformations between Postscript / Ghostscript / PDF / PNG / what-have-you, it’s impossible to pin down a common cause.

    Searching for the obvious keywords showed other folks had similar problems with different printers and different drivers. None of the threads had any resolution.

    Printing the same document on the Epson R380 worked perfectly.

    One recent morning I had four out of six documents fail, so I tried some of this and a little of that, before it occurred to me that I should switch the driver. I had chosen the default recommended printer driver during installation: the oddly named bj8xxyyz.upp file produced by the Ghostscript folks. Switching to the Gutenprint 5.2.7 driver seems to have solved the problem; all four failing documents printed perfectly and the problem hasn’t returned in a week of printing.

    The R380 was already using the Gutenprint driver, which (in retrospect) should have been a big, fat hint.

    I’d file a bug report, but to which project about what? [sigh]

  • Sony DSC-H5: Shutter Button Rebuild

    Having extracted the shutter button from the camera body, it’s easy to see why the plunger causes problems:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - bottom view
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – bottom view

    The plunger is basically a pin that eventually deforms the top of the switch membrane. Tee’s DSC-H1 had an exposed switch, although this picture shows that membrane was still in reasonably good condition:

    Shutter Switch Closeup
    Shutter Switch Closeup

    My DSC-H5 has a thin black protective disk atop the switch, but the disk wasn’t particularly protective and developed a dimple that held the contacts closed even with the shutter button released (which is why I’m tearing the camera apart in the first place):

    DSC-H5 Shutter Switch - dimpled protector
    DSC-H5 Shutter Switch – dimpled protector

    The C-clip around the plunger is now plastic, rather than metal, making it less likely to erode the thin plastic shaft. Pulling the clip off while holding the button down releases all the parts:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - components
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – components

    A few measurements from an intact shutter button, which may come in handy if you don’t have one:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - plunger measurements
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – plunger measurements

    Mount three-jaw chuck on the Sherline table, laser-align chuck to spindle, grab shutter button by its shaft in a Jacobs chuck, grab shutter button in three-jaw chuck, release from Jacobs chuck:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - in Sherline chuck
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – in Sherline chuck

    That’s not particularly precise, but it’s close enough for this purpose. I used manual jogging while testing the fit with a paper shim until all three jaws had the same clearance, then tightened the jaws.

    I nicked the plunger at its base with a flush-cutting diagonal cutter, snapped off the plunger, and drilled a #56 hole through the button:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - cap drilling
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – cap drilling

    For reasons that made sense at the time, I repaired Tee’s DSC-H1 with a 1-72 brass screw. This time, I used an 0-80 (which I learned as ought-eighty, if you’re wondering about the indefinite article) screw and nut, because the screw head fit neatly into the bezel recess and I had a better idea of how to smooth out the threads.

    This being plastic, I used the chuck to hold the tap in the proper alignment, then turned the tap through by finger pressure. This trial fit showed it worked:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - 0-80 screw
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – 0-80 screw

    Milling the nut down to a 2.8 mm cylinder required the usual manual CNC, with repeated iterations of this chunk of code in the MDI panel:

    #<r>=[[2.8+3.11]/2]
    g1 x[-#<r>] f50
    g0 z0
    g2 i#<r> f100
    g0 z4
    

    The 2.8 in the first line is the current OD and the 3.11 is the measured diameter of the 1/8 inch end mill. I started from a 5.0 mm OD that just kissed the nut, then worked inward by 0.2 mm at a time for very shallow 0.1 mm cuts:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - 0-80 nut milling
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – 0-80 nut milling

    The alert reader will notice, as did I, that the head isn’t quite centered: the cut trimmed the left side and left the right untouched, with an offset far larger than the centering error. As nearly as I can tell, the heads of those screws aren’t exactly centered on their threaded shafts, but the final result fixed that… and the overall error is a few tenths of a millimeter = maybe 10 mils, tops, so it’s no big deal.

    With all that in hand, I applied a very very thin layer of epoxy to fill the threads below the now-cylindrical nut and convert the screw into a rod:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - 0-80 plunger
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – 0-80 plunger

    My original intent was to use the screw head as-is atop the PET shield (per those instructions) on the switch membrane, but after reassembling enough of the camera to try that out, it didn’t work correctly: the half-pressed switch didn’t activate reliably before the full-pressed switch tripped.

    The PET shield I used came from the side of a 1 liter soda bottle and turned out to be 0.27 mm thick:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Switch - cover removed
    DSC-H5 Shutter Switch – cover removed

    I think the PET shield would work with the original plunger shape concentrating the force in the middle of the shield, but the nice flat screw head spreads the force out over a wider area. As a result, the force required to close the half-pressed switch contacts was roughly the same as that required to close the full-pressed contacts; remember the nub on the bottom of the black plastic tray concentrates the force in the middle of the full-pressed switch membrane.

    So I removed the PET shield, added a dot of epoxy to fill the screw slot and compensate for the missing shield thickness, then filed a flat to make a nice pad:

    DSC-H5 Shutter Button - epoxy on plunger
    DSC-H5 Shutter Button – epoxy on plunger

    Reassembling the camera once more showed it worked exactly the way it should. In fact, the button seems more stable than the OEM version, probably because the slightly enlarged plunger shaft fits better in the bezel. Too bad about those scuffs on that nice shiny button dome, though:

    DSC-H5 - repaired shutter button
    DSC-H5 – repaired shutter button

    Tossing the leftover parts seems entirely appropriate…

    Sony DSC-H5 Shutter Button - leftovers
    Sony DSC-H5 Shutter Button – leftovers