Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The flange offset puts the switch actuator on the midline of the base, not that that matters, and the base features rounded corners and a suitable legend, because I can.
I clipped the PCB’s through-hold leads nearly flush and stuck it to the flange with 3M permanent foam tape, which seems to work much better than screws & inserts for simple things that need never come apart.
The Protoneer CNC Shield includes a Probe input on the GRBL-compliant A5, although it took me a while to find the legend on the SCL pin in the I2C header. I moved the endstop power jumper to another header, then conjured a quick-and-dirty connector:
Protoneer CNC Shield – Tool Probe Wiring
When I embed the endstop switch PCB in epoxy, I’ll add a drop to the connector while engaging in Magical Thinking. The whole Arduino + CNC Shield must go into an enclosure after I finish measuring the motor currents.
To forestall discussions about switch repeatability and accuracy, suffice it to say the MPCNC doesn’t claim to be much more than a woodworking router, so those switches seem Good Enough.
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The original doodles show a severely over-complexicated solution desperately searching for an actual problem:
MPCNC Tool Length Probe – doodles
Putting a large flat pan at the end of a relatively long lever arm, with the pivot arranged to put the pan level at the switch actuation point, made sense at the time. Give the relatively small tools I expect to use, directly ramming them into the switch lever should work just as well.
Putting all that complexity in harm’s way seemed like a Bad Idea when I sat down and looked at it in cold blood.
A friend recommended a Finger Wrench and it looks useful, indeed:
Finger Wrench
That’s a 10-32 socket head cap screw, on the large end of the screws I normally use.
The orange PETG required a bit of smoothing around the overhangs, but should work well enough. The dark tinge near the bottom comes from the black filament I used for the MPCNC’s Z Axis sensor and won’t affect its operation in the least.
Done with one perimeter thread and a 3 mm brim to glue down the bottom:
Homing the MPCNC’s Z axis at the bottom end of its travel made no sense, but the Z stage lacks a convenient spot to mount / trigger a switch at the top of its travel, so this sufficed for initial tests & fiddling:
MPCNC – Z min endstop
The EMT rail carrying the switch moves downward, tripping the lever when it hits the MPCNC’s central assembly.
Somewhat to my surprise, a TRCT5000-based optical proximity sensor (harvested from the Kenmore 158 Crash Test Dummy’s corpse) and a strip of black electrical tape work perfectly:
I soldered the wires (harvested from the previous endstop) directly to the PCB, because the pinout isn’t the same and fewer connectors should be better.
The mount uses black PETG, rather than translucent orange, in hope of IR opacity, and wraps around the EMT rail at (roughly) the 2 mm standoff producing the peak response:
IR Reflective Sensor module – TCRT5000 – response vs distance
In truth, I set the gap by eyeballometric guesstimation to make the entire mount arc sit equidistant from the EMT:
MPCNC – Z Opto Prox Endstop – top view
The mount includes the 2 mm spacing around the EMT OD and puts the sensor tip flush with the arc OD, so it should be pretty close:
TCRT5000 Z Axis Endstop Mount – solid model
A strip of 3M permanent tape, cut to clear the 608 bearings, affixes the mount to the MPCNC’s central assembly. The solid model now includes a midline reference notch, with a height rounded up to the next-highest multiple of 2.0 mm. It needs a loop to anchor the cable.
The blue twiddlepot sets the comparator threshold midway between the response over black tape (incorrectly on = too low) and bare EMT (incorrectly off = too high), in the hope of noise immunity. The range spanned nearly half of the pot rotation, so I think it’s all good.
The sensor doesn’t trip when the edge of the tape exactly meets its midline, which meant I had to trim a strip of tape to suit. As part of setting the twiddlepot, I shut off the Z axis motor and laid some test strips on the EMT:
MPCNC – Z Axis Opto Prox Endstop – Test Tape
I spun the leadscrew with one hand, held the sensor with the other, twiddled the trimpot, trimmed the upper and lower ends of the tape, and generally had a fine time. The sensor responds equally well to a half-wide strip of tape (in the upper picture), with the distinct advantage of not encroaching on the 608 bearing tracks.
The GRBL setup now homes Y and Z toward the positive end of their travel, with X still toward the negative end while a set of extension cables remains in transit around the planet.
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As part of entombing the endstop PCBs in epoxy, I tweaked the switch mounts to (optionally) eliminate the screw holes and (definitely) rationalize the spacings:
MPCNC MB Endstop Mount – No screws
The sectioned view shows the cable tie slot neatly centered between the bottom of the switch terminal pit and the EMT rail, now with plenty of meat above the cable tie latch recess. The guide ramp on the other side has a more-better position & angle, too.
A trial fit before dabbing on the epoxy:
MPCNC – Endstop Mount for epoxy coating – trial fit
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Using 3D printer style endstop switches has the advantage of putting low-pass filters (i.e. caps) at the switches, plus adding LED blinkiness, but it does leave the +5 V and Gnd conductors hanging out in the breeze. After mulling over various enclosures, it occured to me I could just entomb the things in epoxy and be done with it.
The first step was to get rid of the PCB mounting screws and use 3M permanent foam tape:
MPCNC – Epoxy-coated Endstop – Adhesive Tape
Get all the switches set up and level, mix up 2.8 g of XTC-3D (because I have way too much), and dab it on the switches until all the exposed conductors have at least a thin coat:
MPCNC – Epoxy-coated Endstop – Installed
You should use a bit more care than I: the epoxy can creep around the corner of the switch and immobilize the actuator in its relaxed position. Some deft X-Acto knife work solved the problem, but only after firmly smashing the X axis against the nonfunctional switch.
Epoxy isn’t a particularly good encapsulant, because it cures hard and tends to crack components off the board during temperature extremes. These boards live in the basement, cost under a buck, and I have plenty of spares, so let’s see what happens.
At least it’s now somewhat more difficult to apply a dead short across the Arduino’s power supply, which comes directly from a Raspberry Pi’s USB port.
I measured stepper motor winding current with a pair of Tek Hall effect probes for future reference.
MPCNC – X Axis current measurement setup – overview
The pistol-shaped A6303 measures up to 100 A, so it’s grossly overqualified for the job. The much smaller A6302 goes to 20 A and is definitely the right hammer. The single-trace pix show 200 mA/div.
I’m using the default 12 V6 A MPCNC stepper power supply, with A4988 stepper driver boards on the Protoneer CNC Shield atop a knockoff Arduino UNO running GRBL firmware. The blue USB cable goes off to a Raspberry Pi running minicom for manual control.
All the pix use the same G-Code command: G1 X2.4 F180. Running at 180 mm/min = 3 mm/s eliminates pretty nearly all visible acceleration.
Each picture requires:
m9 to disable stepper power
Remove X axis A4988 driver board
Set jumpers to select new microstep mode
Reinstall driver board
Change GRBL $100 step/mm setting to match jumpers
Ctrl-X = reset GRBL
$x = unlock
m8 = enable power
Enable scope trigger (single-trigger mode)
g1x2.4f180 motion for next image
x0 = return to origin
With the A4988 stepper driver in 16:1 microstep mode:
MPCNC g1x2.4f180 – 16 ustep – 200 mA-div
Notice how some of the microsteps aren’t particularly crisp, notably around the zero crossings. I think the relatively low 12 V supply doesn’t give the A4988 enough control authority to boss the current around, resulting in difficulty holding the current setpoint, even at low speed:
MPCNC X 10mm 60mm-s 500mA-div
More on that problem in a while.
In 8:1 microstep mode:
MPCNC g1x2.4f180 – 8 ustep – 200 mA-div
In 4:1 microstep mode:
MPCNC g1x2.4f180 – 4 ustep – 200 mA-div
In 2:1 microstep mode:
MPCNC g1x2.4f180 – 2 ustep – 200 mA-div
And, a rarity in modern times, both windingsat 500 mA/div in full step mode:
MPCNC g1x2.4f180 – 1 ustep – dual 500 mA-div
The A4988 driver reduces the peak current to 1/√2 of the stepped sine wave peak to maintain the same average power dissipation and torque. For reasons I cannot explain, the full-step move takes far less time than the others; it must have something to do with how GRBL computes the average speed. It sounds like a robotic woodpecker hammering on the MPCNC’s frame, so I flipped back to 16:1 microstep mode after taking that picture.