Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
The “PETG White” spool in the top line is nearly empty, so I loaded a new spool into the “Empty 1” box.
The “Empty 1” 35% value on 7 Oct matches the other empty box, the desiccant having pulled the humidity down from the 51% basement level. The weight of the water pulled out seems low compared to “Empty 2”, as they both started with a fresh batch of basement air while changing the desiccant in September.
They’re again filled with 25 g of alumina beads, although I’m beginning to think silica gel does a better job.
A picture of the boxes, thus avoiding WordPress reminding me pictures improve SEO:
The 25 g of silica gel in each Polydryer box produced these results after a month:
8 Sept 2025
11 Sept
23 Sept
Filament
%RH
Wt – g
Wt gain – g
%RH
%RH
PETG White
25
27.6
2.6
15
21
PETG Black
22
27.3
2.3
15
20
PETG Orange
21
27.2
2.2
21
23
PETG Blue
19
27.3
2.3
14
15
PETG-CF Blue
24
27.4
2.4
21
22
PETG-CF Black
21
27.3
2.3
15
19
PETG-CF Gray
27
27.1
2.1
24
26
TPU
25
27.4
2.4
22
24
Empty 1
51
no gel
n/a
27
30
Empty 2
35
27.9
2.9
19
28
The humidity levels seem higher than before, with a bit under 10% weight gain.
The two “Empty” boxes show the difference between ambient basement humidity and letting 25 g of silica gel work on the box for a month. Comparing the latter’s weight gain with the other boxes shows occupying (much of) the interior with (relatively) dry filament reduces the desiccant’s workload.
The beads in the “Empty 2” box were definitely darker after soaking up an entire box full of 50 %RH air:
Polydryer – 37%RH meter – empty
The meter reads 37%, rather than 35%, due to being out of the box for a few minutes.
They’re the darker swirl in the pan of beads:
Silica Gel regeneration – starting bead colors
That’s an accumulation of beads from a few months, not just what you see in the table.
I used an induction cooktop to heat the cast-iron pan. Some fiddling with the cooktop’s constant-temperature mode got the beads to 200 °F with a 460 °F setting in about an hour. Setting the cooktop to 50% in constant-power mode worked better, as the beads reached 220 °F in an hour and 230 °F after another hour.
The bead weights at various stages:
Start = 531 g
+1 hr at constant temperature = 491 g
+ 1 hr at 50% constant power = 483 g
+ 1 hr ditto = 480 g
The 41 g weight loss is 8.5% of the dry weight, roughly what you’d expect from the humidity readings.
After reloading the meters with 25 g of alumina beads, the 11 Sept humidity readings are slightly lower and the 23 Sept readings are roughly comparable.
My Fitbit Charge 5 has become fussy about its exact position while snapped to its magnetic charger, so I thought elevating it above the usual clutter might improve its disposition:
FitBit Charge 5 stand – installed
The Charge 5 now snaps firmly onto its charger, the two power pins make solid contact, and it charges just like it used to.
I sprayed the white-ish fragments (on the left) with satin-finish clear rattlecan “paint” in the hopes it would keep epoxy out of the cracks between the glass cuboids and leave the highly reflective air gaps. While it did a reasonable job of sealing, it bonded poorly with the epoxy and produced a dull surface finish.
The unsprayed fragments (on the right) turned out better, although the one in the upper right has a thin air bubble / layer on top. The unsealed cracks between the cuboids show well against the reflective layers, so I think spraying the fragments isn’t worth the effort.
The printed base has a 1 mm tall rim to retain the epoxy:
Printed Coaster Layout – solid model
I mixed enough epoxy to fill half the volume of a disk with the same overall OD and depth (V = h × π × d²/4), which turned out to be barely enough produce a level surface at the rim. There didn’t seem that much epoxy left on the various measuring / mixing cups, but next time I’ll round upward.
Many of the bubbles emerged from below the metalized paper, as well as between the glass and paper, so next time:
Set up a level platform with a sacrificial cover
Omit the adhesive sheet under the metallized paper
Pour a little epoxy into the recesses
Squish the metallized paper into place
Pour more epoxy to cover the paper
Gently squish the glass fragments into place
Ease more epoxy around the fragments
Chivvy the bubbles away
Fill to the rim
The top isn’t exactly flat and has some dull areas, so at some point I want to make it flat with 220 grit sandpaper, work up to some 3000 grit paper I’ve been saving for a special occasion, then finish it off with Novus polish. Which seems like enough hassle to keep the coaster under my sippy cup for a while.
The motivation for making Yet Another Coaster was to see if combining a few techniques I’ve recently learned would produce a nicer result.
Spoiler: Yup, with more to be learned and practiced.
This is a somewhat nonlinear narrative reminding me of things to do and not do in the future, so don’t treat it as a direct how-to set of instructions.
The glass fragments sit inside holes in the next two (or three or whatever) acrylic layers, which must have a total thicknesses slightly more than the glass thickness andremain properly aligned while assembling the whole stack:
Smashed Glass Coaster 5 – alignment pin
Bonus: all that cutting generates an absurd amount of acrylic scrap. I eventually put much of it to good use, but not producing it in the first place would be a Good Thing …
So 3D print the entire base, which requires generating a solid model with recesses for the fragments:
Printed Coaster Layout – solid model
Because there’s no real justification for an optical-quality mirror under smashed glass, use reflective metallized paper in the recesses as reflectors:
Smashed glass printed coaster – metallized paper assembly
The glass is more-or-less greenish-blueish, so I used a strip of green metallized paper that made the glass fragments green. Obviously there’s some room for choice down there.
Both the base and the reflectors use outlines of the fragments, so I started with a scan of the approximate layout in GIMP:
Smashed Glass – 4in – group A – tweaked
I traced the outline of each fragment using the Scissors Select Tool, which lays line segments along the sharpest gradient between clicked points, then switched into Quick Mask mode to adjust & smooth the results:
Smashed Glass paths – quick mask
That’s the result after sketching & saving all the paths as separate SVG files to allow importing them individually into InkScape, OpenSCAD, and LightBurn.
Which turned out to be suboptimal, as it let me write an off-by-one blooper omitting the last file from the OpenSCAD model:
A better choice puts all the paths into a single named group, saved as a single SVG file, then importing that group from the file using its name, along these lines:
It’s not clear if I can do that directly from GIMP by saving all the paths in a single file, then importing that lump into Inkscape as a group, but it’ll go something like that.
After getting the fragment paths into Inkscape, add a 0.5 mm offset to each path to clear any non-vertical edges. This will be checked with the template cut using LightBurn as described below.
Add a 1 mm rim around the outside, with the 4 inch OD matching the usual PSA cork base:
Fragment layout – 4in
Now’s the time to nudge / rotate the outlines so they have at least a millimeter of clearance on all sides / ends, because that’s about as thin a section of printed plastic as you want.
Locating the center of the OD (and, thus, everything inside) at the lower-left corner of the Inkscape page will put them at the OpenSCAD origin. I have set Inkscape to have its origin at the lower left, rather than the default upper left, so your origin may vary.
Select one of the paths:
Fragment layout – Inkscape A
Then set the ID in its Object Properties:
Fragment layout – Inkscape A – properties
There is an interaction between the name over in the Layers and Objects window, which apparently comes from the GIMP path name for the imported fragments, and the resulting ID and Label in the Object Properties window. However, renaming an object on the left, as for the Rim and Perimeter circles, does not set their ID or Label on the right. Obviously, I have more learning to do before this goes smoothly.
With everything laid out and named and saved in an SVG file, the OpenSCAD program is straightforward (and now imports all the fragments):
Which squirts out the solid model appearing above.
Feeding it into PrusaSlicer turns the model into something printable:
Printed Coaster Layout – slicer
And after supper I had one in my hands.
Before doing that, however, import the same SVG file into LightBurn, as on the left:
Printed Coaster Layout – LightBurn
On the right, duplicate it, put the inner Rim on a tool layer, put the rest on a layer set to cut chipboard, and make a template to verify those holes fit around the fragments:
Smashed glass printed coaster – fragment test fit
Which a few didn’t, explaining why I go to all that trouble. Iterate through GIMP → paths → SVG → Inkscape → LightBurn until it’s all good. Obviously, you do this before you get too far into OpenSCAD, but they all derive from the Inkscape layout, so there’s not a lot of wasted motion.
The middle LightBurn layout insets the fragment outlines by 0.25 mm to ensure the paper fits easily and puts them on a layer set to cut metallized paper. Those fragments then get duplicated and rearranged within the rectangle on the top to fit a strip of metallized paper from the scrap box. Fire The Laser to cut them out and stick them to the bottom of their corresponding 3D printed recesses with leftover snippets of craft adhesive sheet as shown above.
I had originally intended to cover the bottom of the entire sheet of metallized paper with an adhesive sheet, but realized the whole affair was going to be submerged in epoxy, so just making sure the paper didn’t float away would suffice.
Having recently had to move the flat box of shattered glass to get something from behind it, I figured I could apply new techniques to old material :
Smashed glass printed coaster – oblique view
This is something of a test case to restart the whole process, so it has a few bloopers. This post covers the results, with more detail on the process to follow.
Arrange some good-looking shattered glass fragments within the 4 inch circle on the fixture:
Smashed glass printed coaster – fragment test fit
Scan it, trace the outlines into paths using GIMP, label the paths in Inkscape, import into LightBurn to laser-cut the chipboard disk in that picture to verify enough clearance around the fragments, import into OpenSCAD, and produce a solid model for PrusaSlicer:
Printed Coaster Layout – slicer
While it’s printing, laser-cut green metallized paper to serve as a reflecting layer below the glass, then affix the paper to the bottom of the recesses:
Smashed glass printed coaster – metallized paper assembly
During that process I discovered one of the fragment recesses didn’t make it from the Inkscape SVG file to the OpenSCAD model:
Smashed glass printed coaster – missing fragment
Like I said: bloopers. That fragment now has its place in the OpenSCAD code and the slicer preview above, not that I have matching fragments to build another one.
Put all but one fragment in their places, pour clear epoxy over everything, pop bubbles for a while, then let it cure overnight:
Smashed glass printed coaster – front view
Stick a PSA cork disk on the bottom and it’s ready for service.
Having just replaced the shower faucet cartridge, the knob insert (probably from 1998, according to a label on the shower stall) could also use some improvement:
Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – front
That oblong blue tint is water. The shattered sections formerly had small fingers holding the insert into the knob:
Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – rear
Pry the aluminum disk out of the insert and scan it:
Delta Shower Faucet – label scan
There is no feature in the knob to capture the semicircular notch at the arrow tip, so the disk can rotate as it pleases. I think the arrow should point to the OFF label on the bezel when the water is turned off, but who knows?
Import it into Inkscape, whereupon it becomes obvious the printed legend is not centered on the disk, lay suitable construction lines & circles, then draw similar shapes:
Delta Shower Faucet – Inkscape layout
I located the circles at the Inkscape page corner to put their center at the (0,0) origin with the arrow pointed along the X axis to simplify importing it into OpenSCAD.
The three useful graphic features go on separate layers so OpenSCAD can treat them as separate objects:
The KnobAngle rotation comes from the angle of the features inside the knob that locate the insert, which are aligned horizontally here, but at about 30° when the knob is installed on the faucet :
Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob – insert recess features
The knob shined up surprisingly well for being three decades old; that photo is as-found.
Import the Inkscape graphics into OpenSCAD and align them an itsy above the top of the insert structure to prevent Z fighting without triggering the slicer into adding another layer:
Those three shapes must be handled separately, lest OpenSCAD combine them into one thing that PrusaSlicer won’t recognize as distinct shapes. There’s no need to subtract them from the main insert shape, but getting separate colors to come out right is definitely not straightforward.
Which looks like this, with cheerful colors that need not correspond to the printer filaments:
Delta Shower Faucet Insert – solid model
Normally I have a set of Build transformations to orient the thing for printing, but doing a simple rotation to put the top down on the platform also blows away the separate nature of the graphics.
I use the EIA color code sequence in PrusaSlicer so I can identify the filament number by eye:
Shower Fauce Knob Insert – PrusaSlicer preview
A little while later:
Delta 1400 Shower Faucet knob insert – installed
The insert is a loose fit in the knob, held in place by good double-sided foam tape to the screw securing the knob. I decided to not bother with little fingers, because I loves me some simple removable adhesive action.
Yeah, you can buy an entire replacement knob for ten bucks, but where’s the fun in that?
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