The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Battery Organizer

    Battery Organizer

    A small box has been holding an assortment of batteries during their out-of-service phase and I finally made a lid to keep the contents from flopping around:

    Battery organizer
    Battery organizer

    The cardboard prototypes record the journey toward the black acrylic lid. The final LightBurn layout:

    Battery Collector - LightBurn layout
    Battery Collector – LightBurn layout

    For whatever it’s worth, the box holds:

    The first four suitable & identical screws from the Tray o’ Tiny Screws hold the lid down. The ToTS contains screws and suchlike harvested from all the gadgetry headed for the recycling pile, making it a reliable source for any occasion.

  • Pressure-washed Stove Grates

    Pressure-washed Stove Grates

    Be it hereby declared: laying the absurdly heavy cast-iron grates from the stove on sawhorses in the driveway and pressure-washing them produces a dramatic improvement:

    Pressure-washed stove grates
    Pressure-washed stove grates

    They’re now devoid of the oil / grease / carbon accumulated during their decade of existence, little of which can be removed by hand; the shiny spots on the front right shrug off all solvents in my armory. The black finish still has plenty of scrapes & scuffs, but it’s no longer annoying.

    You might think Samsung stove grates would fit in a Samsung dishwasher, but they’re too big and too heavy.

    Also for the record: cyanoacrylate adhesive works wonderfully well to hold their little rubber feet in place.

  • PolyDryer Humidity: April-ish

    PolyDryer Humidity: April-ish

    After about five weeks:

    2026-04-16
    Filament%RHWeight – gWt gain – gGain %
    PETG White14
    PETG Black14
    PETG Orange2252.52.55.0%
    PETG Natural15
    PETG-CF Blue2355.45.410.8%
    PETG-CF Gray18
    PETG-CF Black14
    PETG Blue10
    TPU Clear14
    TPU Black14

    Most of the PolyDryer boxes had the same humidity as before, so I didn’t disturb them. When the humidity starts to rise, then we’ll see what’s going on in there.

    The PETG Orange meter continues to misbehave and has been glitching from 22% to 30%. The indicator card shows the humidity is around 10% inside and the relatively low weight gain suggests there’s not much water to be adsorbed.

    The PETG-CF Blue spool is new and, once again, shows filament does not arrive bone-dry in the factory wrapper.

    Those two boxes now have alumina beads.

    Dehydrating the jar of wet silica gel on the induction cooktop (set for 405 °F) sweated it down from 532 g to 503 g over the course of four hours, with nearly all of that change in the first two hours.

    Obligatory photo from a while ago, because it looks pretty much the same now:

    Silica gel beads - drying
    Silica gel beads – drying
  • Punched Cards: Summary

    Punched Cards: Summary

    At last, I can make plausible-looking punched cards:

    Test Card 3 - punched
    Test Card 3 – punched

    Then chop most of them up to make a layered eagle:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - overview
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – overview

    Back in the beginning, the grand overview explained the card production process, but now I can pull all the blog posts into a more coherent story.

    Start by making trays to hold the 1/3 Letter sized printed cards and the final cut cards. A coat of paint improves the result:

    Card Storage Tray - front
    Card Storage Tray – front

    Then make a fixture to position the 1/3 Letter printed cards in the laser and a simple cover for the honeycomb to direct the air flow:

    Punched cards - laser fixture overview
    Punched cards – laser fixture overview

    The current versions of the Python program to convert a line of text into the SVG images required to print and punch the cards, plus the Bash scripts handling all the command line parameters, are now in a single GitHub Gist . I used the source code from the Apollo 11 CSM AGC for historic reasons.

    The Bash scripts invoke the Python program twice to produce both the printed layout:

    Punched Cards - test card - printed
    Punched Cards – test card – printed

    And “punched” holes surrounded by the perimeter cut for the laser:

    Test Card 3 - LightBurn layout
    Test Card 3 – LightBurn layout

    The Python program handles translation from the ASCII (really Unicode) character set into the EBCDIC punched hole layout. Because LightBurn and Inkscape handle SVG scaling differently, the script sorts that out.

    Because my printer produces slightly off-size printed images, the script uses Inkscape to convert the SVG into a PNG, then downscales the image by a few percent (a different percent on each axis). It composites the card logo onto the PNG and slams the result onto a Letter page in the proper place to hit the 1/3 Letter sheets.

    Aligning the targets printed on the cards with the corresponding target positions in the laser SVG requires careful fixture skootching:

    Red dot vs printed target vs laser spot alignment
    Red dot vs printed target vs laser spot alignment

    A batch file feeds the laser SVGs into LightBurn, so the process boils down to a few mouse clicks per card.

    With a tray full of finished cards in hand, I converted the eagle from the Apollo 11 mission patch into a set of outlines:

    Apollo 11 Patch - eagle layers
    Apollo 11 Patch – eagle layers

    Each of those outlines defines the shape of a layer cut from those printed cards:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - head
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – head

    Not gonna lie: it took serious effort to cut up those cards.

    Each layer has a specific set of cards chosen to put the holes in the proper place while hiding the card joints:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 1 cards
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 1 cards

    Mirroring the layout helped me arrange the cards correctly while taping the back side of the joints with book repair tape:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 1 cards - mirrored
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 1 cards – mirrored

    Slap a sheet of cards on the laser platform, align it to the layer’s outline, Fire The Laser, and stack up the results:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - tail
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – tail

    I used Elmer’s All Purpose Glue Stick to hold the layers together, figuring if it’s good enough for kindergartners it’s good enough for me.

    And that’s all there is to it …

  • Punched Cards: Painted Storage Trays

    Punched Cards: Painted Storage Trays

    If you must have a stack of punched cards on your desk, a nice tray does wonders for the office decor:

    Card Storage Tray - overview
    Card Storage Tray – overview

    That’s a coat of Rustoleum Painter’s Touch 2x [many more adjectives] Kona Brown Gloss rattlecan paint atop Trocraft Eco board. I sprayed the separate parts on a sheet of newspaper, waited 20 minutes, flipped them over, sprayed the other side, gave them another 20 minutes, and got them inside out of the wind for a day of curing.

    They’re held together by cyanoacrylate adhesive dots between the tabs, with accelerator daubed on the other side of the joint to encourage prompt curing. In general I do not like cyanoacrylate, but sometimes it seems like the right hammer for the job.

    The trays are a definite step up from chipboard:

    Punched cards - storage trays
    Punched cards – storage trays

    It’s even pretty up close:

    Card Storage Tray - front
    Card Storage Tray – front

    They might be Presentation Grade.

  • Punched Cards: Layout Alignment

    Punched Cards: Layout Alignment

    My initial process of picking punched cards from the top of the stack, taping them together, then cutting a layer of the eagle produced unpredictable results when there weren’t enough holes to be interesting or a card joint appeared in a conspicuous spot:

    Apollo 11 Eagle patch - layer test - tail
    Apollo 11 Eagle patch – layer test – tail

    I now arrange the SVG image of the card’s holes for best effect on each eagle layer:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 7 card layout
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 7 card layout

    The small squares near the corners of the image appear on every layer to properly register all the eagle outlines.

    Mirroring the layout produces the hole pattern as seen from the back side of the cards, where the tape is applied:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 7 card layout - mirrored
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 7 card layout – mirrored

    Then it’s (relatively) easy to align the cards while muttering “the rightmost hole in the lower sequence number is just about aligned with the upper card edge, which puts the middle-ish hole in the group of four in the 9 row over the left hole of those two” and so on and so forth. Cut off a strip of tape, carefully lay it along the joint between the cards, and add them to the outgoing pile.

    The top two layers are cut with the back = unprinted = blank side of the card upward to produce the eagle’s white head, with the outlines strategically located to avoid shredding the feathers with holes:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 8-9 card layout
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 8-9 card layout

    The value of this process becomes more apparent for the nine cards making up the bottom layer:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 1 cards
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 1 cards

    Most of the white tail comes from the reversed card in the bottom row, inset into the two cards above it. The next layer covers those sections of the legs and olive branch, which is easy to confirm by aligning the layers using their border squares.

    The layout mirrored for easier taping:

    Apollo Eagle - V4 Layer 1 cards - mirrored
    Apollo Eagle – V4 Layer 1 cards – mirrored

    This is from a previous layout, but the improvement is obvious:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - tail
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – tail

    The trick with all this is to select only the eagle outline for cutting amid all the card details. Although putting the cards on a tool layer would avoid that problem, the holes are much less visible and they’re pretty much the entire point of this process.

    Aligning the taped cards on the platform with the to-be-cut outline follows much the same process as aligning the printed cards for punching:

    • Select the cards and the eagle outline
    • Snap to the middle of the LightBurn workspace with the P key
    • Focus the laser on the cards if you haven’t already done so
    • Move the laser head to one of the card bevels using Ctrl-L and clicking on one end of the bevel
    • Skootch the cards to put that bevel at the red dot pointer location under the laser head
    • Move the laser head to another bevel
    • Skootch the cards as needed
    • Iterate until satisfied
    • Fire The Laser

    Although each card layout has the four targets used to cut it from the printed card stock, those targets no longer exist on the cards because they’ve been cut off.

    You could use Print and Cut to align the LightBurn workspace to the cards, but it’s easier and faster to just skootch the cards around.

    Actually cutting the outline takes a few seconds and is kinda anticlimactic after all that setup.

  • Punched Cards: Layered Apollo Eagle V3

    Punched Cards: Layered Apollo Eagle V3

    Fixing some of the outstanding issues produces another Apollo Eagle from layers of punched cards:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - overview
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – overview

    Stipulated: nobody ever ran punched cards through a multi-color printing process. A posterized version of the Apollo 11 mission patch eagle just seemed appropriate for cards containing a chunk of the mission source code.

    Putting the tail feathers on two layers of reversed cards definitely improved the outcome:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - tail
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – tail

    The lines across two of the tail feathers come from inadvertently printing a quilting pattern intended for Letter paper after setting up a stack of 1/3 Letter blanks. Trust me on this: you do not discard any salvageable blooper cards.

    The wing feathers get more definition and have sculptured upper layers:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - wing
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – wing

    The olive branch improved with fewer layers and contouring the claws makes them less chunky:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - olive branch
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – olive branch

    The beak and head now have slight contouring, with the neck feathers standing out nicely over the logo below:

    Apollo Eagle - V3 - head
    Apollo Eagle – V3 – head

    Although this is the third almost-ready version, it rests on the wings of many previous attempts:

    Apollo Eagle - layered trials
    Apollo Eagle – layered trials

    The card joints on successive layers are now farther apart, although the long run across the middle of the body stands out more than I expected. The small pieces of cards at the top of the wings need more contrast.