The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Craptastic Kitchen Scale Tinkering

    Craptastic Kitchen Scale Tinkering

    The health plan I use pays $100 toward the year’s over-the-counter healthcare stuff, although with a caveat: you can only buy the stuff from a specific website. As you might expect, what’s available consists of no-name generic products with absurdly high sticker prices and, just to rub it in, the hundred bucks gets paid in quarterly use-it-or-lose it installments.

    Seeing as how it was free, I got a kitchen scale:

    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale - top view
    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – top view

    It has two catastrophically bad design features:

    • Terrible battery life
    • Overly sensitive controls

    It runs from a pair of series-connected CR2032 non-rechargeable lithium coin cells. Which would be fine, except that the blue LED backlight stays on for 30 seconds after each button touch and draws about 10 mA.

    The battery lifetime is best measured in days.

    The four control “buttons” on either side of the backlit LCD are touchless sensors using copper foil stickers:

    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale - NP-BX1 retrofit
    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – NP-BX1 retrofit

    The alert reader will spot those the empty CR2032 coin cell contacts over on the left and a pair of NP-BX1 batteries in the middle.

    I figured there was no need to keep feeding it coin cells while I played with it, so I conjured a holder from the vasty digital deep. Normally, that would be an OpenSCAD solid model suited for 3D printing, but in this case the lithium cells exactly filled the space between the PCB and the bottom of the case, so it became a 2D design neatly suited for laser cuttery.

    Kitchen scale - NP-BX1 holder - LB layout
    Kitchen scale – NP-BX1 holder – LB layout

    I planned to stick the orange cutout (in 1.5 mm acrylic) as a stabilizer around the pogo pins making contact with the cell terminals from the red cutout (in 3 mm acrylic), but just melting the pins into the acrylic seemed sufficient for the purpose. Strips of adhesive sheet saved from the margins of previous projects affix the holder (not the cells!) to the scale’s upper glass layer.

    As far as I can tell, the scale is perfectly happy running on 7.4 V, rather than 6.0 V. The PCB has two terminals marked +3V and +6V, so it probably depends on which LEDs they use for backlights:

    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale - PCB detail
    SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – PCB detail

    The alert reader will notice a peculiarity concerning the sensor pad connections along the top edge.

    More on that second bad design decision later …

  • Medium Ricotta Lid Box: QR Code vs. Chipboard

    Medium Ricotta Lid Box: QR Code vs. Chipboard

    Another box from the festi.info box configurator to collect more lids in a kitchen drawer:

    Medium Ricotta Lids box
    Medium Ricotta Lids box

    This was really a thinly veiled excuse for a deeper look at the QR code generator encoding the myriad parameters required to create the box and see what happens when you try to burn such a complex thing into chipboard.

    Spoiler: chipboard has very low contrast and really does not work well with high-density QR codes.

    Although the festi.info box generator can produce QR codes, I used qrencode (available in your Linux distro) on the command line to generate QR code image files with specific settings:

    qrencode --level=M --size=6 --dpi=254 --output='Ricotta Lids 2 lb - chipboard.png' 'http://festi.info/boxes.py/ABox?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=2.0&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=2.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=3.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&x=200.0&y=120.0&h=60.0&outside=0&bottom_edge=h&thickness=1.4&format=lbrn2&tabs=0.0&qr_code=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=0&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04&language=en&render=0'
    
    

    The key parameters:

    • --level → error correction level
    • --size → size of the smallest square (“module”) in pixels
    • --dpi → DPI of the output image file

    The default file type is PNG. The unusual 254 DPI makes each pixel exactly 0.1 mm wide and a peculiar 169.33 DPI = 0.15 mm came in handy for the first pattern.

    The final parameter is the character string to encode, which you should definitely quote to prevent the shell from wrecking things while trying to help you.

    A pattern with 4×4 pixel modules didn’t scan at all:

    Chipboard QR code - 15pct 0.15mm 4x4 - overview
    Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.15mm 4×4 – overview

    A closer look shows the modules have ragged edges due to laser timing variations during the engraving scans and gaps between successive scans because the spot size is less than the 0.15 mm scan interval:

    Chipboard QR code - 15pct 0.15mm 4x4 - detail
    Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.15mm 4×4 – detail

    Increasing the module to 6×6 pixels at a 0.1 mm scan interval :

    Chipboard QR code - 15pct 0.10mm 6x6 - overview
    Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.10mm 6×6 – overview

    A closer look shows the larger module reduces the relative size of the timing errors, while the decreased line spacing tidies up the blocks:

    Chipboard QR code - 15pct 0.10mm 6x6 - detail
    Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.10mm 6×6 – detail

    Reducing the power from 15% to 10% reduced the contrast to the point of illegibility:

    Chipboard QR code - 10pct 0.10mm 6x6 - overview
    Chipboard QR code – 10pct 0.10mm 6×6 – overview

    A closer look shows the engraving barely punches through the surface and has somewhat more ragged edges due to the tube’s pulsating startup current at very low power:

    Chipboard QR code - 10pct 0.10mm 6x6 - detail
    Chipboard QR code – 10pct 0.10mm 6×6 – detail

    I also tried 5×5 modules with similar results.

    The laser spot size sets the engraving scan interval, which then determines the DPI value for the QR code image. With all that matched up, you can send the images directly to the laser in Passthrough mode, without having LightBurn resample the pixels and change the module’s shape.

    Looked at from a different angle: given the laser spot size and the module size, the QR code image size is not under your control.

    From another angle: given a QR code image size in, say, millimeters, and the engraving scan interval, the module size is not under your control.

    All this is moot if you print QR codes on a high-resolution / high-contrast printer. It’s just the gritty nature of laser cuttery that limits what you can accomplish.

    And, of course, using a material less awful than chipboard will definitely improve the results.

    If you want a similar box of your own, here ya go:

    Medium Ricotta Lids - chipboard QR code - default
    Medium Ricotta Lids – chipboard QR code – default

    The URL is too ugly to print, but you can copy it from this link.

  • Mini-lathe Chuck Jaw Holder

    Mini-lathe Chuck Jaw Holder

    While swapping chuck jaws I realized I didn’t have to pile them on a shop rag atop the lathe headstock, no matter how neatly cut those rags might be:

    Lathe chuck jaw holder - installed
    Lathe chuck jaw holder – installed

    It’s three layers of MDF cut to hold all six jaws from the 4 inch 3 jaw chuck, stuck together with wood glue.

    You really need only four sockets: one empty for the jaw you just removed, then work your way around the chuck. But, hey, MDF is cheap and I usually remove all three at once anyway.

    When it starts walking away, it’ll sprout silicone feet.

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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    That was easy!

  • Please Close The Gate Signs: Paint Masking FAIL

    Please Close The Gate Signs: Paint Masking FAIL

    A warm day let me shoot the engraved signs for the Vassar Community Garden gates with rattlecan black:

    Please Close The Gate - masking tape peeled
    Please Close The Gate – masking tape peeled

    The full sheet of orange acrylic arrived with plastic protective film on both sides, which I planned to use for paint masking. Alas, one side also had a wrinkle running its length that ended up on two signs, so I replaced that film with blue masking tape.

    As fate would have it, the first side of the first sign I peeled had masking tape and produced what you see above.

    Things went bad in a hurry. The paint had no adhesion whatsoever to the plastic film and fell off in flakes as I peeled the film away:

    Please Close The Gate - plastic peeled
    Please Close The Gate – plastic peeled

    I assumed the flakes would just fall off the signs, perhaps with a little persuasion, so I peeled and weeded all the signs before cleaning them up.

    Although the paint was fully dry, when the molecularly smooth surface of each paint flake touched the molecularly smooth surface of the newly exposed acrylic, the two instantly and permanently fused together.

    There were a lot of flakes:

    Please Close The Gate - plastic peeled - detail
    Please Close The Gate – plastic peeled – detail

    Removal techniques that did not work:

    • Vacuuming with a brush
    • Gentle rubbing with a soft cloth
    • Firm rubbing after spraying with acrylic cleaner
    • Scraping with a plastic razor blade

    So I deployed a P220 grit sanding block and wrecked the glossy surface of both sides of all six signs. I briefly considered trying to recover the finish by sanding them all up through about 2000 grit, then came to my senses: my sanding arm is weak.

    Careful examination of the last picture shows several places around edges of the circle where the plastic film melted into a blob that blocked the paint, rather than vaporizing. I used enough power to engrave only about 0.3 mm deep (because they’re engraved on both sides), but the transition wasn’t fast enough for a clean edge.

    They don’t look as nice as I’d like, but they’re good enough for the purpose:

    Please Close The Gate - installed
    Please Close The Gate – installed

    The acrylic sheet is more see-through than I expected, at least when backlit by bright sunlight.

    Please Close The Gate - seethrough
    Please Close The Gate – seethrough

    Next: we discover what happens to UV-stabilized orange acrylic and black outdoor paint over the course of a year in garden sunshine.

  • Laser-Cut Envelope Opener

    Laser-Cut Envelope Opener

    As practice in using the laser to engrave a figure to a known depth, this seemed appropriate:

    Envelope Opener - original
    Envelope Opener – original

    The black envelope opener on the right came in a long-ago surplus deal and worked really well, which I cannot say for the retail replacements I got a few years back.

    The tan envelope opener on the left is an obvious case of IP theft, copying the size and shape using a scanned image:

    Classic opener - knife blades - scan
    Classic opener – knife blades – scan

    The two blades seemed like good candidates, with the lower one winning the contest:

    Kobalt 78010 Mini Utility Knife Blade mask
    Kobalt 78010 Mini Utility Knife Blade mask

    Although the pack of “mini utility knife blades” sports a Lowe’s Kobalt part number, they no longer carry that item. You can find plenty of identical blades elsewhere, so they’re not a rare collectible and I have plenty of backup.

    Put the outline of the opener on a cut layer, put the blade on an engraving layer, orient appropriately, and make a mirror-image duplicate:

    Envelope Opener - LB Layout
    Envelope Opener – LB Layout

    The original opener is a touch over 3 mm thick, so the settings engrave 0.25 mm into the surface to make a blade pocket, then cut the shapes from 1.5 mm TroCraft Eco:

    Envelope Opener - cutting
    Envelope Opener – cutting

    After all the cutting was done, it looks about as you’d expect:

    Envelope Opener - interior layout
    Envelope Opener – interior layout

    Slather with yellow PVA wood glue and apply too many clamps:

    Envelope Opener - clamping
    Envelope Opener – clamping

    Next time around, I’ll round off the edges before assembly, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning:

    Envelope Opener - detail
    Envelope Opener – detail

    The TroCraft sheet engraves so cleanly that, were I to go into mass production, I’d set up a fixture for grayscale engraving shaping the perimeters.

    Obviously, this makes no economic sense, but it does produce a considerable amount of satisfaction, which is pretty much all that matters for such things.

  • Lift Chair Foot Risers

    Lift Chair Foot Risers

    The fuzzy felt feet on the lift chairs raised them enough to slide both floor lamp bases underneath with the backs in the upright state, but reclining the chair with the light more than halfway back along the side of the chair crunched the lamp base.

    Rather than print taller fuzzy feet, which takes a long time, I knocked out two quartets of laser-cut risers:

    Lift Chair Foot Riser - installed
    Lift Chair Foot Riser – installed

    They’re six layers of 3 mm MDF or plywood:

    Lift Chair Foot Riser - assembled
    Lift Chair Foot Riser – assembled

    The LightBurn layout makes one riser:

    Lift Chair Feet Extenders - LB layout
    Lift Chair Feet Extenders – LB layout

    The upper two discs become two rings and two pads, with the lower two disks forming the middle layers. The ring ID clears the chair foot and the pad OD fits into the existing printed fuzzy felt foot. The two cuts making that happen leave the thinnest imaginable ring of MDF in place.

    The tiny circles cut holes for 11 mm snippets of 1.1 mm hard steel wire aligning the layers:

    Lift Chair Foot Riser - locating pins
    Lift Chair Foot Riser – locating pins

    Assembly sequence:

    • Tap two pins into a ring
    • Butter the ring with yellow wood glue
    • Slide the other ring over the pins
    • Butter
    • Slide a disk over the pins
    • Drive a pin into a pad
    • Butter
    • Slide the other pad over the pin
    • Butter
    • Slide a disk over the pin atop the pads
    • Butter one of the disks
    • Slide the disks together over all three pins
    • Tap all pins below their surface

    Make two and clamp them together to ensure everything sticks firmly.

    Repeat to make four risers

    Install, recline, and enjoy not hearing a mysterious crunch from the lamp base.

    The alert reader will note the 6 mm stack of two pads leaves a slight gap above the printed foot. Turns out the recess is 5 mm deep and I decided to just live with a 1 mm gap down there.

  • Shoulder PT Pulley: Last 10% Manufacturing

    Shoulder PT Pulley: Last 10% Manufacturing

    Mary’s PT requires a Shoulder Pulley, so I got one that seemed better constructed than the cheapest Amazon crap. In particular, this view suggested the pulley ran on a bearing:

    Slim Panda Shoulder Pulley - detail view
    Slim Panda Shoulder Pulley – detail view

    Which turned out to be the case, but, also as expected, the whole thing required a bit of finishing before being put in service.

    It’s intended to hang from a strap trapped between an interior door and its frame. The strap was intended to attach to the block (a.k.a. “Thickened base”) through a breathtakingly awkward pair of low-end carabiners:

    Slim Panda Shoulder Pulley - carabiners
    Slim Panda Shoulder Pulley – carabiners

    Which I immediately replaced with a simple, silent, sufficiently strong black nylon cable tie:

    Shoulder PT Pulley - block hardware
    Shoulder PT Pulley – block hardware

    Rather than let the metal block clunk against the door, it now sports a pair of cork-surfaced bumper plates:

    Shoulder PT Pulley - side plates installed
    Shoulder PT Pulley – side plates installed

    A doodle of the block dimensions:

    Shoulder Pulley - dimension doodle
    Shoulder Pulley – dimension doodle

    Which turned into a simple LightBurn layout:

    Shoulder PT Pulley Side Plates - LB layout
    Shoulder PT Pulley Side Plates – LB layout

    The blue construction lines represent the actual block & pulley, with the red cut lines offset 2 mm to the outside to ensure the metal stays within the bumpers. It’s possible to pick the block up and whack the pulley against the door, so don’t do that.

    Cut out two pieces of 3 mm MDF, two pieces from a cork coaster (covered with blue tape and cut with the paper backing up), peel-n-stick the cork to the MDF, put double-sided foam tape on the block, peel-n-stick the bumpers, then hang on the attic door.

    Now it works the way it should!

    The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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