Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
Pretty much as expected, the cheap craft adhesive sheet turned out to be inadequate to the task of holding the thin upper border ring onto the clutter collector:
Layered Acrylic Desk Junk Collector – overview
So I stripped the adhesive off with naptha and arranged a cut in a 3M 300LSE acrylic adhesive sheet:
Desk clutter plate – 300LSE adhesive sheet
Four small tabs held that ring to the central piece while I stuck the acrylic ring on it, which turned out to be easy enough. Then I cut the tabs, peeled the paper off the other side, stuck the ring to the plate, and it’s once again ready for clutter.
The bond is visibly better when viewed through the top of the ring, so I think the 300LSE adhesive is thicker and gooier than the craft sheet adhesive, which isn’t surprising at all.
For reasons that will become relevant later on, I must clear the magazines from about ten feet of shelf space (and a stack of boxes), including this assortment:
To the best of my knowledge and belief, each collection is complete within those dates, although I’m equally sure an issue or two went walkabout over the course of four decades.
Having written columns for Digital Machinist, DDJ, and Circuit Cellar, I (still!) have multiple “author’s copies” of those, although I haven’t dug through the boxes for the specifics.
Here’s the deal:
You must take all of any set
Any offer ≥ $0.00 is acceptable
Shipping from ZIP 12603 is your problem
N.B.: Shipping Is Not My Problem (*)
Best offer on or before 30 November 2023 takes any or all.
Whatever remains becomes mulch in December 2023.
(*) A USPS Medium Flat Rate box (11×8.5×5.5 inch) costs $17 within the continental US and holds two or three dozen issues. Obviously, that’s the wrong way to ship an entire shelf of magazines, but gives you an idea of the scale.
If you want to pick ’em up in person, I’ll help heave ’em into your trunk.
Quite a while ago I’d added another LED strip to the under-cabinet light array, because the little cutting boards & suchlike on a wire shelf blocked the light, but fastened it in place with ugly wire ties.
Finally I found a Round Tuit on the desk for brackets mounting the strip directly to the shelf:
Kitchen Light Bracket – shelf blocks – solid model
Ram a pair of brass inserts in the holes, screw the strip in place, snap the brackets between the wires, and it’s much better:
Kitchen Light Bracket – installed
Stipulated: those wire ends look awful. Fortunately, they’re normally hidden by the cutting boards and suchlike on the shelf.
Although it looks precarious, the rounded sides (seem to) have enough grip on the wires to hold the LED strip in place. We’ll see how well that works in practice, but the idea was to avoid anything sticking up above the wires to collide with the stuff on the shelf.
The blocks emerge from a chunk of code glommed onto the original OpenSCAD program:
The general idea: securely hold a piece of paper flat while cutting it, so that it cannot move or warp, while letting the cut pieces fall out without snagging on anything underneath. The sheet holder I made a while ago worked reasonably well, but those thin metal blades tend to warp while cutting small patterns in restricted areas and the pieces definitely don’t fall free.
The simple fixture I use while assembling the paper layers consists of four rivnuts poking through a chipboard upper layer, with a craft paper layer around the rivnut washers on the bottom:
Layered Paper – alignment fixture
The cutting fixture uses a similar layout around a hole for freely falling chips:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – installed
Next time, I’ll remove those three bars across the hole, because the MDF doesn’t need any support. Nearly all the chips fell out, so the fixture worked as intended.
I trimmed the flange off the rivnuts so they would sit flat on the MDF:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – trimming rivnut flange
That’s the kind of job chuck stops really simplify.
The cutting fixture requires pre-cutting paper into 200 mm squares with four 5 mm corner holes, which can be done three-abreast on the platform bars, then putting each sheet in the fixture to cut the shapes. That’s not much of a disadvantage compared to messing up an unsupported sheet.
The cutting fixture has crosshair targets to align a LightBurn template using Print-and-Cut, thus eliminating the need to precisely locate the fixture on the platform. The finger-crushingly strong neodymium bar magnets do a fine job of holding the MDF in place on the steel platform.
The small cutout rectangle in the lower right corner frames the sheet number, done in binary code with 0 = 1 mm circle and 1 = 2 mm circle:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – layer binary code
That’s the underside view of a completed stack with the 5 mm lower-right fixture hole on the left and the code for layer 11 = 0b1011 reading backwards. The small 0 holes have two lobes showing the Print-and-Cut alignment was off by maybe 0.3 mm; the off-center hole was in the blank sheet.
Obviously, cutting tiny circles with a big laser at 300 mm/s doesn’t produce perfect results. You can see small wiggles in larger shapes:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – cut wobbles
Unless you’re trying hard to find a problem, you’ll never notice them.
The Chimney Swallows block from page 128 of Beyer’s book:
Chimney Swallows – Beyer 128
The tool (blue & orange) and top cut (red) layers:
Chimney Swallows – LB layout
The long radial blue tool lines simplified selecting them when mirroring / duplicating the cut polygons around their symmetries. The orange tool circles aligned various midpoints / vertices / features during construction.
The inward curve along the outer edge started as a triangle with a node at about the middle of the curve. Deleting that node left the remaining two sides overlapped, but dragging one of them to match the curve worked OK. There’s probably a better way.
That curve defines the outer edges of the shapes along it, so I drew polygons from the corner intersections and dragged the outer edge to match the curve at high zoom.
The shape remains selected after dragging the side, which meant I could immediately apply a 1 mm inset to create the cut lines.
To my surprise, the swallow bodies are straight-sided polygons!
After taking advantage of all the symmetries, knock out the shapes defining each layer:
It looks more like flowers than fireworks to me, but there’s no accounting for taste.
Deploy enough 2 mm circles to catch the flower’s radial symmetry:
Pyrotechnics – LB layout
During the process of building the layout, a big circle positioned the cups at the base of the flowers, another delineated the joint between the cups and the petals, and more little circles caught the intersection of those circles with the petals. All that was for visualization and positioning, as you only draw one flower shape, then duplicate it around the pattern.
Although the cups and petals are surely circular arcs, it’s easier to draw a closed line triangle around the intersections, then pull the midpoint of a line into an arc (Bezier curve!) matching the pattern Closely Enough™ at high zoom. Because the arcs end at the intersection points based on circular arrays of points, they’ll all match up when they’re duplicated around the pattern; in fact, you need only one side of one petal, mirror it around the midline, and away you go.
Then the magic happens:
Pyrotechnics – LB tool insets
Which is easier to see without the original shapes:
Pyrotechnics – LB insets
Pick one of the closed shapes, apply the Offset tool to shrink it by 1 mm, duplicate as needed, and you get the outlines of the regions to cut with 2 mm between them. Plunk those shapes on a cutting layer, add the outer frame with locating holes for the fixture, and it’s ready to cut the top layer from black paper:
Pyrotechnics – LB cuts
Knock out the cuts for each sheet of paper in the stack:
Pyrotechnics – LB paper cuts
Then Fire The Laser™:
Layered Paper – Pyrotechnics – Beyer 132
That was a nearly random selection of colors, but it’s hard to go wrong.
The Moonlander keyboard has per-key LEDs that I’ve denatured enough that most show a pale gray, with a few others highlighted in orange. A few weeks ago the LEDs on the right-hand thumb cluster and the N key went nuts, cycling through a surprising assortment before settling on bright red; the obvious resets / firmware reflashing / tapping were all unavailing.
ZSA’s tech support recommended taking the thumb cluster apart to check the ribbon cable connecting it to the main keyboard half:
Moonlander thumb cluster – PCB bottom
Come to find out my unclean personal habits lodged a particularly corrosive nugget of board chow on the cable:
Moonlander – corroded ribbon cable
It’s a more-or-less standard 0.5 mm pitch cable, but only 20-ish mm long, much shorter than the cables carried by the usual sources. ZSA sells them for $2 each, plus $25 courier shipping, so I bought three; they arrived in two days from halfway around the planet.
Because I don’t foresee my personal habits changing any time soon, I tucked a Kapton tape snippet in the gap to serve as a gutter:
Moonlander thumb cluster – tape shield installation
That’s with the two hinge screws out and the cluster eased down-and-away from the keyboard enough to get the tape pressed against the keyboard.
With the screws installed and the cluster at its normal most-downward angle, the gutter closes up:
Moonlander thumb cluster – tape shield folded
With the cluster in its normal operating position (for me, anyway), the gutter is nearly invisible:
Moonlander thumb cluster – normal position
For the record, I tucked the remaining ribbon cables inside the left-hand thumb cluster against future need.
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 