The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • Simple Air Flow Straightener for Simple Fans

    I want to measure the air flow from some fans, which means I need an air flow straightener to smooth out the wind enough to make the numbers less error-prone. You can, of course, buy cute little straighteners that bolt onto the outlet side of the fan, but what’s the fun in that?

    Air flow straightener - overview
    Air flow straightener – overview

    The general idea is to pass the air through a set of thinwall tubes to damp out the turbulence. A downstream gap between the fan outlet and the passages eliminates / reduces the dead spot caused by the fan rotor. About 1 diameter downstream of the tubes, the air flow becomes reasonably uniform and a few more diameters produces the familiar parabolic velocity profile found in HVAC ducts.

    A few minutes with a bandsaw extracted a 2-diameter-long tube from a 4-inch diameter heavy cardboard mailing tube. A pull saw and a miter box converted some surplus cigar tubes (which I got a long time ago for just such an occasion; I’m not a cigar smoker!) into 3-diameter lengths. Lay as many cigar tubes into the mailing tube as will fit, jam in one more, and they’ll remain in place with sufficient tenacity for my purposes. I suppose, if you were fussy, you could dribble in some adhesive.

    I pushed the cigar tubes to the middle of the mailing tube, mostly because that seemed sensible. As nearly as I can tell, this is one of those things where it’s easy to get a reasonable result (as witness the variety of straighteners used by overclockers) and nearly impossible to get a truly trustworthy quantitative setup (as witness the bizarre vanes used in real wind tunnels by actual engineers). An overclocker discussion lives there.

    Air straightener - cigar tubes
    Air straightener – cigar tubes

    A quartet of board spacers screwed into 90-mm (92-mm, whatever) fan fit neatly around the mailing tube’s OD, where I simply hot-melt-glued them into place.

    Air flow straightener - fan mount
    Air flow straightener – fan mount

    A cardboard gasket seals off the gaps between the fan and the tube.

    Fan gasket in place
    Fan gasket in place

    The gasket looks like this; the next time I will print this picture and cut it out, rather than repeating some fussy layout and getting it wrong twice. Scissors around the outside, a hollow punch for the four screw holes, and a razor knife for the interior. I considered a CNC project, but …

    Air flow straightener gasket
    Air flow straightener gasket

    And then it Just Worked.

    The “before” flow, measured about 1 diameter downstream of the bare fan standing in mid-air, ranged from 0.8 to 1.4 m/s, with the expected completely dead zone in the center. The “after” flow, 1 diameter downstream of the tube, was 0.9 to 1.1 m/s across the entire width, with no decrease in the middle.

    The cross-section area is 12.5 in2 and the flow is maybe 40 in/sec, so the fan is pushing 17.5 ft3/min. More or less, kinda-sorta; it’s a quiet CPU case fan from an ancient Dell PC. I have a box of 60 cfm fans arriving shortly, so we’ll see how they stack up.

    The anemometer is a La Crosse EA-3010U, which may be the wrong hammer for the job, but it doesn’t require me to dope out a hot-wire anemometer just to get a few numbers…

  • Improved Tool Length Probe Switch: Repeatability

    After doing a repeatability test immediately after screwing the new switch to the tooling plate, I let everything sit overnight and ran the test again. In between, I’d done a few small moves, but didn’t change any of the mechanical positions.

    The positions look like this:

    Trial	Z-axis mm	Delta mm
    1	26.303561	0.000000
    2	26.305558	0.001997
    3	26.304226	0.000665
    4	26.304226	0.000665
    5	26.303561	0.000000
    6	26.305558	0.001997
    7	26.305558	0.001997
    8	26.303561	0.000000
    9	26.303561	0.000000
    10	26.304226	0.000665
    11	26.304892	0.001331
    
    	Maximum	0.001997
    	Minimum	0.000000
    	Range	0.001997
    

    The initial position is 0.07 mm, about 3 mils, higher than before, which may well be due to the limited amount of fiddling I’d done in between.

    The corresponding picture shows that the values are well and truly quantized to far fewer positions than the number of digits would lead you to believe:

    Probe Repeatability 2
    Probe Repeatability 2

    The total range is 0.002 mm = 78 microinch, so the steps are on the order of 666 nm: separated by just about exactly one wavelength of the red He emission line.

    What’s of interest is that the regression line is perfectly flat, which means the switch has pretty much stabilized. I have absolutely no reason to believe it’s repeatable to anywhere near that accuracy, particularly from day to day, but the switch is normally used to set tool lengths relative to a specific tool that’s touched off against the work surface at the start of what passes for a machining job around here.

    It’s good enough!

  • Improved Tool Length Probe Switch

    This relay-like object appeared while shoveling off the Electronics Workbench. Most likely, it started life in the white-goods world, where recurring cost is everything:

    Original relay
    Original relay

    Now, doesn’t that look just like a tool length probe? It’s certainly less hideous than the one that’s been working fine on my Sherline mill, ever since I figured out how to make tool length probing work.

    Here’s what caught my eye:

    • Plenty of switch overtravel
    • Nice metal bracket with screws
    • All the vital pieces in one convenient assembly!

    Some brute force removed the spring and actuator, a few shots with a chisel broke the adhesive holding the coil in place, and this collection of parts emerged relatively unscathed:

    Disassembled relay parts
    Disassembled relay parts

    Another shot with a pin punch removed the post from the frame. I intended to un-bend the L-shaped feature that held the post, enlarge the hole, and screw it to the mill. Alas, they formed the angle by notching the steel and it cracked when I un-bent it. No great loss.

    The two bumps on the frame held the (now defunct) restoring spring. I simply filed those off while cleaning up the broken edges.

    Drill a 10-32 clearance hole, solder a cable with a 3.5 mm stereo plug to the switch, add a plastic cable clamp, screw it to the end of the tooling plate, and it’s all good. That’s the butt end of a broken 2 mm end mill poking down from the spindle…

    New tool length probe in action
    New tool length probe in action

    Does it work any better than the previous kludge?

    A G-Code routine that displays the Z-axis coordinate where the switch trips looks like this:

    (Tool length probing test)
    
    (--------------------)
    ( Initialize first tool length at probe switch)
    (    Assumes G59.3 is still in machine units, returns in G54)
    ( ** Must set these constants to match G20 / G21 condition!)
    
    #<_Probe_Speed> =        400            (set for something sensible in mm or inch)
    #<_Probe_Retract> =        1            (ditto)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> SUB
    
    G49                     (clear tool length compensation)
    G30                     (move above probe switch)
    G59.3                   (coord system 9)
    
    G38.2 Z0 F#<_Probe_Speed>           (trip switch on the way down)
    G0 Z[#5063 + #<_Probe_Retract>]     (back off the switch)
    G38.2 Z0 F[#<_Probe_Speed> / 10]    (trip switch slowly)
    
    #<_ToolZ> = #5063                    (save new tool length)
    G43.1 Z[#<_ToolZ> - #<_ToolRefZ>]    (set new length)
    
    G54                     (coord system 0)
    G30                     (return to safe level)
    
    O<Probe_Tool> ENDSUB
    
    (-------------------)
    (-- Initialize first tool length at probe switch)
    
    O<Probe_Init> SUB
    
    #<_ToolRefZ> = 0.0      (set up for first call)
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    #<_ToolRefZ> = #5063    (save trip point)
    
    G43.1 Z0                (tool entered at Z=0, so set it there)
    
    O<Probe_Init> ENDSUB
    
    (--------------------)
    ( Set up length)
    
    G21                     ( metric units)
    
    (msg,Verify G30.1 above tool change switch, hit Resume)
    M0
    (msg,Verify blunt tool installed, hit Resume)
    M0
    
    O<Probe_Init> CALL
    
    (debug,Initial Z trip = #<_ToolRefZ>)
    
    O100 REPEAT [10]
    
    O<Probe_Tool> CALL
    #<DeltaZ> = [#<_ToolZ> - #<_ToolRefZ>]
    (debug,Z trip=#<_ToolZ> DeltaZ=#<_DeltaZ>)
    
    O100 ENDREPEAT
    
    M2
    

    Which produced these results:

    Trial	Z-axis mm	Delta mm
    1	26.376973	-0.000000
    2	26.376307	-0.000666
    3	26.374976	-0.001997
    4	26.376307	-0.000666
    5	26.375641	-0.001332
    6	26.374310	-0.002663
    7	26.374976	-0.001997
    8	26.373645	-0.003328
    9	26.373645	-0.003328
    10	26.372979	-0.003994
    11	26.372979	-0.003994
    
             Maximum	-0.000000
             Minimum	-0.003994
             Range  	 0.003994
    

    Notice that the results have six figures after the decimal point, but they’re really less precise: you’ll find four pairs of duplicates, which seems highly unlikely. I think the values are quantized to about 25 µ-inch and displayed as whatever the metric equivalent might be.

    The corresponding plot looks like this:

    Probe Repeatability
    Probe Repeatability

    The trend line is highly suspect, but the slope shows that the trip point gets lower by one wavelength of violet light (393 microns) per trip. The total difference is a whopping 0.004 mm during the test, call it 160 millionth of an inch.

    Both of those are better, by roughly a factor of two, than the previous probe switch.

    Bottom line: That’s OK for the sort of machining I do… ship it!

  • Needle-nose Tweezers: Matching the Jaws

    While excavating the top of my workbench and putting things away, I managed to drop my favorite needle-nose tweezers… which, of course, landed point-down on the concrete floor:

    Mismatched tweezer jaw
    Mismatched tweezer jaw

    Well, that gave me an excuse to match up the jaws. If you take a close look at most of your tweezers, they’ll have jaws that don’t quite come together evenly, so you’re trying to grab things with a single point instead of between two flat surfaces.

    A brief session with coarse and medium diamond files produced this pleasing result (with a mm scale for size):

    Matching tweezer jaws
    Matching tweezer jaws

    Much better!

    Another trick that works well: grab a piece of fine sandpaper in the tweezers, scrub sideways, and repeat for the other jaw. That’ll flatten out the jaws, make them reasonably parallel, and put the scratches in the direction that helps the most when you’re pulling something. Works best if the jaws are already pretty well aligned.

  • Ending an Antenna Rattle

    This Comet HT-224 antenna fits on my Kenwood TH-F6A radio, but the connector fitting is just slightly too long / short / something: it moves just a little bit, even with the nut firmly tightened.

    This isn’t a real fix, but it pretty much eliminates the rattle: a rubber O-ring between the nut and the antenna…

    Antenna connector and O-ring
    Antenna connector and O-ring

    The ring lasts for a few years, then cracks and falls off. My O-ring stash has what could possibly be a lifetime supply.

    Antenna with O-ring in place
    Antenna with O-ring in place

    There’s a wrap of tape around the label, just for neatness.

  • Floor Lamp Base: Poor Planning

    Floor lamp base - cord exit
    Floor lamp base – cord exit

    We have an old floor lamp that’s always been a bit tippy and I finally got around to wondering what’s going on.

    The cord exits through the center of the base, where it passes through a plastic nut that keeps it off the raw metal edge of the central rod holding the lamp together.

    The ruler has 1/16 inch divisions, so the cord requires a bit over half an inch of clearance.

    Floor lamp foot with bumper
    Floor lamp foot with bumper

    Here’s what one of the five molded-in feet look like, with a white rubber bumper that I just added to improve the ground clearance…

    Notice that the foot is barely 1/4 inch tall, so the lamp has always been resting on the cord and two other randomly chosen feet. No wonder the thing was tippy.

    The new rubber feet make it a lot less tippy, but there’s not a lot of clearance under there. When one of those things falls off, I’ll think of something better.

    The lamp was nominally UL approved, of course…

  • Foxconn R20-D2 Case vs. Optical Drive: Button Padding

    Extended optical drive button
    Extended optical drive button

    So I stuck a CD-RW drive into the Foxconn Atom box and discovered that the pushbutton on the front panel doesn’t move quite far enough to actually hit the corresponding button on the drive.

    Popped another drive off the heap and tried it out, just for grins, with the same result. Evidently the cute little ribbed back on the silvered panel button (near the bottom of the picture) isn’t quite long enough.

    Solution: a bit of rubberized high-traction tape stuck to the drive button (near the top of the picture).

    This is a black-on-black situation, so I pushed the contrast enough that you can actually see it.