Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Category: Software
General-purpose computers doing something specific
The already ponderous chunk of G-Code that slic3r prepends to the outgoing file got a bit more complex with all the changes going on around here.
As it stands now, the starting G-Code looks like this:
;-- Slic3r Start G-Code for M2 starts --
; Ed Nisley KE4NZU - 2015-03-07
; Makergear V4 hot end
; Z-min switch at platform, must move nozzle to X=135 to clear
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; start bed heating
G90 ; absolute coordinates
G21 ; millimeters
M83 ; relative extrusion distance
M17 ; enable steppers
G4 P500 ; ... wait for power up
G92 Z0 ; set Z to zero, wherever it might be now
G1 Z10 F1000 ; move platform downward to clear nozzle; may crash at bottom
G28 Y0 ; home Y to clear plate, origin in middle
G92 Y-127
G28 X0 ; home X, origin in middle
G92 X-100
G1 X130 Y0 F15000 ; move off platform to right side, center Y
G28 Z0 ; home Z to platform switch, with measured offset
G92 Z-2.10
G0 Z2.0 ; get air under switch
G0 Y-127 F10000 ; set up for priming, zig around corner
G0 X0 ; center X
G0 Y-125.0 ; just over platform edge
G0 Z0 F500 ; exactly at platform
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temperature and wait
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to finish heating
G1 E20 F300 ; prime to get pressure, generate blob on edge
G0 Y-123 F500 ; shear off blob
G1 X15 F15000 ; jerk away from blob, move over surface
G4 P500 ; pause to attach
G1 X45 F500 ; slowly smear snot to clear nozzle
G1 Z1.0 F2000 ; clear bed for travel
;-- Slic3r Start G-Code ends --
The blow-by-blow description…
Lines 9-10: Manually enable stepper drivers and wait half a second
Changing to a 24 V power supply for the motors doesn’t affect the winding current (because the drivers control that), but it does increase the current’s rate-of-change (because inductor voltage = L di/dt and the applied voltage is 26% higher) during each microstep. That means the motors snap to a whole-step position a bit faster when the Marlin firmware enables the drivers and the higher di/dt induces more glitch voltage in, say, the endstop cable, triggering a false contact sense (as the circuit depends on the Arduino’s 20+ kΩ internal pullup resistor). In any event, a half-second snooze avoids the problem.
Lines 18-19: Home Z-axis & set platform switch offset
The only way to set the offset accurately is to compare the actual height of a printed object (or the skirt around it) with the nominal value. I use 5 mm tall thinwall open boxes and, after setting the Extrusion Multiplier properly, they’re good test objects.
Lines 22-24: Extruder final heating
PETG tends to stick to the nozzle, so the nozzle now sits just over the edge of the glass plate and flush with the top surface, so that the initial drool forms a glob anchored to the side of the plate. It looks like this:
V4 PETG – preheat position
Notice the curl attached to the nozzle: I generally pick those off with a tweezer, but let this one remain to show how this mess works.
Line 31: Prime the extruder
With the hot end and platform temperatures stabilized, I ram 20 mm of filament into the extruder to refill it and stabilize its internal pressure. Because it’s been drooling ever since the plastic melted, not very much plastic comes out, but what does emerge enlarges the blob and bonds with the plastic stuck on the nozzle, thusly:
V4 PETG – extruder priming
Lines 28-29: Detach the blob
Moving 2 mm onto the platform leaves most of the snot hanging on the edge of the glass, with just a bit on the far side of the nozzle. Doing that relatively slowly gives the plastic time to flow around the nozzle and remain with the blob, then zipping to X=15 encourages it to detach.
Lines 30-31: Wipe away what’s left
Pause for half a second to allow whatever’s left to attach to the platform, then slowly move to X=45, and watch the remaining snot leave a trail on the platform as it oozes off the nozzle.
Then hop up 1 mm to clear the platform and pass control to the rest of the G-Code with a clean nozzle!
That’s the ideal outcome, of course. Sometimes a recalcitrant blob hangs on, but it generally oozes off while the nozzle trudges around three skirt outlines…
The solid box lets you check the outside dimensions (20 x 20 x 5 mm) and the slicer’s infill parameters.
The first few attempts with a new setup won’t look very good, but that’s the whole point:
M2 V4 Calibration Objects
Getting a workable profile and accurate Z-axis setting required maybe a dozen quick prints & parameter changes. After that, they’re good for verifying that any change you make hasn’t screwed up something beyond recovery.
Put five of them on the platform to verify overall alignment (“leveling”) and first-layer thickness:
Thinwall Calibration Cubes – 5 copies
A few iterations will generate plenty of show-n-tell tchotchkes:
Thinwall open boxes from platform leveling
As nearly as I can tell, if you can’t print these reliably, there’s no point in trying to print anything else.
Even better, when you suddenly can’t print anything else reliably, these simple boxes will tell you what’s gone wrong…
Our Larval Engineer reports that the PLA pivot for the Sienna’s hood rod didn’t survive contact with the van’s NYS Inspection. I’m not surprised, as PLA tends to be brittle and the inspection happened on a typical February day in upstate New York. Seeing as how PETG claims to be stronger and more durable than PLA, I ran off some replacements:
Toyota Sienna hood rod pivot – small – PETG
The square cap fit snugly over the bottom of the post; PETG tolerances seem pretty much the same as for PLA.
A slightly larger loop may be more durable, so I changed one parameter in the OpenSCAD code to get this:
Toyota Sienna Hood Rod Pivot – up-armored – solid model
Which printed just like you’d expect:
Toyota Sienna hood rod pivot – large – PETG hairs
Despite the hairs stretching between each part, the nozzle didn’t deposit any boogers during the print. The top and bottom use Hilbert Curve infill, which looks pretty and keeps the nozzle from zipping back and forth quite so much; perhaps that’s a step in the right direction.
Tapping the holes for 6-32 stainless machines screws went easily enough:
Toyota Sienna hood rod pivot – PETG – assembled
She gets one of each and I keep the others for show-n-tell sessions.
The OpenSCAD source code, which differs from the original by a constant or two:
// Sienna Hood Rod Pivot
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2013
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
inch = 25.4;
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//----------------------
// Dimensions
ShellOD = 20.0;
ShellID = 8.75;
ShellLength = 10.0;
TaperLength = 1.5;
TaperID = 11.4;
BaseWidth = 20.0;
BaseThick = 3.0;
PegSide = 9.5; // mounting peg through sheet metal
PegLength = 7.0;
PegCornerTrim = 0.75;
PegHoleOD = 0.107*inch; // 6-32 tap hole
PegTrimSide = sqrt(2)*PegSide - PegCornerTrim;
ClampWall = 3.0; // clamping cap under sheet metal
ClampHoleOD = 0.150*inch; // 6-32 clearance hole
ClampCap = 3.0; // solid end thickness
PanelThick = 2.0; // sheet metal under hood
NumSides = 6*4;
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//----------------------
// Build it
//ShowPegGrid();
// pivot
translate([-ShellOD,0,0])
difference() {
union() {
cylinder(r=ShellOD/2,h=ShellLength,$fn=NumSides); // housing
translate([-ShellOD/2,0,0]) // filler
cube([ShellOD,(ShellOD/2 + BaseThick),ShellLength],center=false);
translate([0,(ShellOD/2 + BaseThick/2),ShellLength/2]) // foot
cube([BaseWidth,BaseThick,ShellLength],center=true);
translate([0, // peg
(ShellOD/2 + PegLength/2 + BaseThick - Protrusion),
PegSide/2])
intersection() {
cube([PegSide,(PegLength + Protrusion),PegSide],center=true);
rotate([0,45,0])
cube([PegTrimSide,2*PegLength,PegTrimSide],center=true);
}
}
PolyCyl(ShellID,ShellLength,NumSides); // central hole
translate([0,0,-Protrusion]) // end bevels
cylinder(r1=TaperID/2,r2=ShellID/2,h=(TaperLength + Protrusion),$fn=NumSides);
translate([0,0,(ShellLength + Protrusion)])
rotate([180,0,0])
cylinder(r1=TaperID/2,r2=ShellID/2,h=(TaperLength + Protrusion),$fn=NumSides);
translate([0,0,PegSide/2]) // screw tap hole
rotate([-90,0,0])
PolyCyl(PegHoleOD,(ShellOD + BaseThick + PegLength),6);
}
// anchor cap
translate([2*PegSide,0,0])
difference() {
translate([0,0,(PegLength + ClampCap)/2]) // overall shape
cube([(PegSide + ClampWall),(PegSide + ClampWall),(PegLength + ClampCap)],center=true);
translate([0,0,(PegLength/2 + ClampCap + Protrusion)]) // peg cutout
cube([(PegSide + ThreadWidth),(PegSide + ThreadWidth),(PegLength + Protrusion)],center=true);
translate([0,0,-Protrusion]) // screw clearance
PolyCyl(ClampHoleOD,2*PegLength,6);
}
My father used a little chisel for some unknown purpose while he was an instrument repair tech at Olmstead AFB during the mid-60s. Its homebrew wood handle eventually disintegrated and I made a quick-and-truly-dirty replacement from epoxy putty and heatshrink tubing, promising that I’d eventually do better.
Seeing as how I use it to pop objects off the M2’s build platform and being in need of a tall, skinny object to see how PETG works with towers, that chisel now has a nice magenta handle:
Platform Chisel – PETG handle
Well, OK, it may not be the prettiest handle you’ve ever seen, but it’s much better than an epoxy turd, as measured along several axes.
Incidentally, epoxy putty bonds to clean steel like there’s no tomorrow. I had to file the last remaining chunks off and sandpaper the residue down to clean steel again.
The solid model shows it in build-a-tower mode:
Chisel Handle – solid model
I think at least one rounded end would improve its appearance. Two rounded ends would make it un-printable in that orientation, although a low-vertex polygonal approximation might have enough of a flat bottom to suffice. Given how long it took me to replace the epoxy, that could take a while.
The central slot fits snugly around the handle, requiring persuasion from a plastic mallet to set in in position.
Once again, the nozzle shed a small brown PETG booger after the first few layers:
PETG Chisel Handle – oxidized plastic
I’m beginning to think PETG infill needs more attention than I’ve been giving it: that’s 15% 3D Honeycomb combined over three layers.
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Chisel Handle
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - March 2015
Layout = "Show"; // Show Build
//-------
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//-------
// Dimensions
Shank = [16.0,2.4,59]; // width, thickness, length to arched end
BladeWidth = 27.0;
HandleSides = 8;
//-------
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(95 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
}
module Handle() {
difference() {
scale([1.0,0.5,1.0])
rotate(180/HandleSides)
cylinder(d=BladeWidth/cos(180/HandleSides),h=Shank[2],$fn=HandleSides);
translate([0,0,Shank[2]/2])
cube(Shank + [0,0,2*Protrusion],center=true);
}
}
//-------
// Build it!
//ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Show") {
Handle();
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,0,0])
rotate([0,0,0])
Handle();
}
Although chain mail provides a good test of the M2’s setup and slicing parameters, it doesn’t offer much in the way of infill. To test that, I designed a holder for the cap of the bulk laundry detergent container:
Detergent Cap Holder – in place
The container must rest on its side, but if you snap the cap back in place, detergent will ooze out between the cap and the container and drip on whatever’s below. The never-sufficiently-to-be-damned Whirlpool high-efficiency front loading washer vibrates like crazy during the spin cycle, shaking anything from its top to the floor. The cap must sit in a cup to catch the inevitable ooze down its side, the wire shelf already has a bunch of other crap on it, and I needed a bulky test object, soooo ….
We regard that detergent container and its cap as a botched design.
Anyhow.
The holder has pair of holes in its back surface for the copper (!) hangers:
Detergent Cap Holder – solid model – rear
I stripped a length of 10 AWG wire, straightened & annealed it, bent up a pair of hooks, then hammered them just flat enough to work-harden the copper, and they were all good.
Printing that massive block with 20% infill showed that the nozzle collected enough PETG during the first few layers to leave a substantial booger behind:
Detergent cup holder – oxidized PETG
Fortunately, that was the only one and it ended up on the inside, tucked out of sight.
The PETG deposit on the outside of the nozzle gradually darkens from the original magenta to brown, which I’m pretty sure means that it’s oxidizing / decomposing / going bad. There’s no obvious way to remove the booger during the print; I’ve taken to wiping the nozzle after each object, while it’s still hot and the PETG remains flexible.
Because the nozzle didn’t accumulate any more PETG during the rest of the print, it’s not a constant problem, but I have seen boogers several times so far.
Perhaps continued refinement of the slicing parameters will help? One can always hope…
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Detergent Cap Holder
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU - March 2015
Layout = "Show"; // Show Build
//-------
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
ThreadThick = 0.20;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
//-------
// Dimensions
RecessX = 45.0; // cap recess
RecessDia = 55.0;
RecessDepth = 10.0;
RecessSides = 16*4;
BaseThick = 5.0; // block thickness below cap
PinDia = 2.5;
PinLength = 20.0;
PinOC = 65.0;
PinInset = 7.0;
PinZ = BaseThick;
Block = [RecessX,PinOC + 2*PinInset,30.0]; // overall block size (X to cap center)
FairingRadius = Block[2] - RecessDepth - BaseThick;
//-------
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
RangeX = floor(95 / Space);
RangeY = floor(125 / Space);
for (x=[-RangeX:RangeX])
for (y=[-RangeY:RangeY])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
}
module Holder() {
difference() {
union() { // main shape
translate([-Block[0]/2,0,Block[2]/2])
cube(Block,center=true);
cylinder(d=Block[1],h=Block[2],$fn=RecessSides);
}
for (j=[-1,1]) // mounting pin holes
translate([-(Block[0] + Protrusion),j*PinOC/2,PinZ])
rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
PolyCyl(PinDia,PinLength + Protrusion,6);
translate([0,0,Block[2]]) // fairing arc
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(r=FairingRadius,h=2*Block[1],center=true);
translate([Block[0]/2,0,Block[2]/2 + RecessDepth + BaseThick]) // flat top
scale([1,2,1])
cube(Block,center=true);
translate([0,0,BaseThick])
cylinder(d1=RecessDia,d2=1.1*RecessDia,h=Block[2]);
}
}
//-------
// Build it!
//ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Show") {
Holder();
}
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,0,0])
rotate([0,0,0])
Holder();
}
Having configured ssh on the Raspberry Pi for public keys, the next step is to cut the cord by configuring the USB WiFi dongle to automagically come up with a static IP.
[Update: As of 2017, set a static IP by tweaking /etc/dhcpcd.conf instead. Search the blog for that to find recent descriptions. ]
Then set up /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf thusly:
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
network={
ssid="whatever it might be"
psk="choose your own password"
}
You want different IP addresses for the eth0 and wlan0 devices, because you never know when you’ll be forced to use them at the same time.
Using wpa-conf rather than wpa-roam prevents the machinery from automagically doing things when you’re not watching.
The router can hand out IP addresses based on MACs, but that means bottling up all that configuration in a single device that might go toes up. Forcibly configuring each device to a static IP adds a bit of resilience to the network, right up to the point where you must change all of them at once.
Alas, the router seemed to lose track of the Pi after a day. Pinging from my desktop box reported Destination Host Unreachable, even though signing on through the USB keyboard showed the USB WiFi link (a netis WF2123) was still up. Signing on to the router and refreshing the DHCP list (even though the RPi has a static IP) knocked things loose: suddenly the RPi became pingable.
The WordPress sourcecode tag seems to turn underscores into blanks [Update: on the last line of a sourcecode block, which I’ve now forced to be a blank line] ; the options should read rtw_power_mgmt and rtw_enusbss, respectively.
Anyhow, the rtw_enusbss option prevents the USB interface from going down. It was already zero in the default configuration, but I presume there’s no harm in clearing it again.
Changing from PLA to PETG with a V4 hot end and 24 V power required several slicing adjustments, some of which weren’t at all obvious. It’s not all settled down, but what you see here comes from a bunch of test objects and tweaks that you’ll see over the next few days; this is basically a peek into the future.
M2 V4 Calibration Objects
The obvious changes:
Extrusion temperature: 250 °C
Platform temperature: 90 °C
Hot PETG seems rather sticky and produces hair-fine strings that aren’t due to poor retraction. Running at 230 °C is possible, but the strings are nasty. The V4 hot end shouldn’t run over 250 °C; fortunately, some tests suggest the stringing doesn’t Go Away at 260 °C, so moah powah! isn’t required.
Hair spray on glass works well above 90 °C and not at all below 80 °C. A stick of Elmer’s Washable Glue Stick, chosen because it was on the Adhesive Shelf, produced exactly zero adhesion at any platform temperature I was willing to use. Its “washable” nature surely contributed to the failure; you want something that’s gonna stick with you forever.
The eSun PETG filament diameter varies from 1.63 to 1.72 mm, which seems like a lot compared to the MakerGear PLA I’d been using; I’ve told Slic3r to run with 1.70 mm. In practice, it doesn’t seem to matter; the average over a meter works out to 1.70, I haven’t seen any abrupt bulges, and the objects come out fine. This spool arrived late last year, early in eSun’s production, so perhaps they’ve smoothed things out by now.
A few iterations of thinwall box building put the Extrusion Multiplier at 1.11, producing a spot-on 0.40 mm thread width at either 0.20 or 0.25 mm thread thickness.
Infill:
Infill overlap: 10%
Max infill: 40%
Infill pattern: 3D Honycomb
Top/bottom pattern: Hilbert Curve
Combine infill: 3 layers
The first attempt at a solid box (left of center, first row) became so overstuffed I canceled the print; the top bulges upward. A few parameter tweak iterations produced the perfect 100% filled solid box to its right, but in actual practice a 40% 3D Honeycomb will be entirely strong enough for anything I build.
Reducing the overlap from 15% to 10% reduced the obviously overstuffed junction just inside the perimeter threads.
Cooling:
Fan for layers below 20 s
Minimum layer time: 10 s
Minimum speed: 10 mm/s
PETG wants to go down hot, but printing a single thinwall box requires that much cooling to prevent slumping. Might be excessive; we shall see.
Speeds:
First layer: 15 mm/s
External perimeters: 25 mm/s
Perimeters: 50 mm/s
Infill: 75 mm/s
Travel: 300 mm/s
Slower XY speeds seem to produce better results, although those values aren’t based on extensive experience.
The first layer doesn’t work well at higher speeds, with acute corners and edges pulling up as the nozzle moves away. Using the Hilbert Curve pattern not only looks pretty, but also ensures the nozzle spends plenty of time in the same general area. Higher platform temperatures work better, too, and I may goose the 40 V supply a bit to improve the 0.2 °C/s warmup rate.
The travel speed went up from 250 mm/s in an attempt to reduce stringing, but it may be too aggressive for the Y axis with the new 24 V supply. On very rare occasions, the Y axis stalls during homing, despite not changing the speeds in the startup G-Code, and I’m still accumulating experience with that.
Bridging isn’t nearly as clean as PLA. After some tinkering, a bridge speed of 25 mm/s and flow of 0.90 seems to work, but some chain mail patches suggest there’s plenty of room for improvement.
Mechanically, PETG is softer and more resilient than PLA, with a much higher glass transition temperature. Larger objects with 40% infill are essentially rigid and smaller objects are bendy, rather than brittle.
On the whole, PETG seems like it will work well for the stuff I build, although magenta isn’t my favorite color…
CAUTION: Don’t use this Slic3r configuration unless: