Software – Page 73 – The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Under-cabinet Lamp Brackets: Angled Edition

The LED strip lights have a reasonably diffuse pattern with an on-axis bright area that puts more light on the rear of the counter than seems strictly necessary. Revising the original brackets to tilt the strips moves the bright patch half a foot forward:

Kitchen Light Bracket - angled - solid model — Kitchen Light Bracket – angled – solid model

For lack of anything smarter, the angle puts the diagonal of the LED strip on the level:

Kitchen Light Bracket - angled - Slic3r preview — Kitchen Light Bracket – angled – Slic3r preview

The translucent block represents the strip (double-thick and double-wide), with a peg punching a hole for the threaded brass insert.

Although the source code has an option to splice the middle blocks together, it can also build them separately:

Kitchen Light Bracket - angled - LED block — Kitchen Light Bracket – angled – LED block

Turns out they’re easier to assemble that way; screw ’em to the strips, then screw the strips to the cabinet.

I moved the deck screw holes to the other end of the block, thus putting the strips against the inside of the cabinet face. It turns out the IR sensor responds to the DC level of the reflected light, not short-term changes, which meant the reflection from the adjacent wood blinded it to anything waved below. Adding a strip of black electrical tape killed enough of the reflected light to solve that problem:

Under-cabinet light - IR sensor shield — Under-cabinet light – IR sensor shield

The tape isn’t quite as far off-center as it looks, but I’m glad nobody will ever see it …

The before-and-after light patterns, as viewed on B-size metric graph paper centered on the left-hand strip and aligned with the belly side of the countertop:

Under-cabinet light - straight vs angled patterns — Under-cabinet light – straight vs angled patterns

Those look pretty much the same, don’t they? So much for photography as evidence for anything.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Mounting brackets for eShine under-counter LED lights
	// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU December 2016

	Layout = "Build";

	//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!

	ThreadThick = 0.25;
	ThreadWidth = 0.40;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly

	inch = 25.4;

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	//———-
	// Dimensions

	MountHeight = (1 + 03/16) inch; // distance from cabinet bottom

	THREADOD = 0;
	HEADOD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	WoodScrew = [4.0,8.3,41]; // 8×1-5/8 Deck screw
	WoodScrewRecess = 3.0;
	WoodScrewMargin = 1.5 * WoodScrew[HEADOD]; // head OD + flat ring

	Insert = [3.9,4.6,5.8 + 2.0]; // 4-40 knurled brass insert

	JoinerLength = 19.0; // joiner between strips

	LEDEndBlock = [11.0,28.8,9.5]; // LED plastic end block
	LEDScrewOffset = [1.0,8.2,0]; // hole offset from end block center point

	StripAngle = atan2(LEDEndBlock[2],LEDEndBlock[1]);
	echo(str("Strip angle: ",StripAngle));

	MountBlock = [WoodScrewMargin,(WoodScrewMargin + LEDEndBlock[1]*cos(StripAngle)),MountHeight];

	//———————-
	// Useful routines

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
	cylinder(d=(FixDia + HoleWindage),h=Height,$fn=Sides);
	}

	//—–
	// LED end block with positive insert for subtraction
	// returned with mounting hole end of strip along X axis
	// ready for positioning & subtraction

	module EndBlock(Side = "L") {

	LSO = [((Side == "L") ? 1 : -1)*LEDScrewOffset[0],LEDScrewOffset[1],LEDScrewOffset[2]];

	rotate([-StripAngle,0,0])
	translate([0,LEDEndBlock[1]/2,LEDEndBlock[2]])
	union() {
	cube(LEDEndBlock + [LEDEndBlock[0],0,LEDEndBlock[2]],center=true);
	translate(LSO + [0,0,-(LEDEndBlock[2] + Insert[2])])
	rotate(180/6)
	PolyCyl(Insert[1],2*Insert[2],6);
	}
	}

	//—–
	// End mounting block with proper hole offsets

	module EndMount(Side = "L") {

	translate([0,0,MountBlock[2]/2])
	difference() {
	translate([0,MountBlock[1]/2,0])
	cube(MountBlock,center=true);

	translate([0,WoodScrewMargin,MountBlock[2]/2])
	EndBlock(Side);

	translate([0,WoodScrewMargin/2,-MountBlock[2]])
	rotate(180/6)
	PolyCyl(WoodScrew[THREADOD],2*MountBlock[2],6);

	translate([0,WoodScrewMargin/2,(MountBlock[2]/2 – WoodScrewRecess)])
	rotate(180/6)
	PolyCyl(WoodScrew[HEADOD],WoodScrewRecess + Protrusion,6);

	translate([((Side == "L") ? 1 : -1)MountBlock[0]/2,3MountBlock[1]/4,-MountBlock[2]/4])
	rotate([90,0,((Side == "L") ? 1 : -1)*90])
	translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
	linear_extrude(height=4*ThreadThick,convexity=3)
	text(Side,font=":style=bold",valign="center",halign="center");
	}
	}

	module MidMount() {
	XOffset = (JoinerLength + MountBlock[0])/2;
	BridgeThick = 5.0;

	union() {
	translate([XOffset,0,0])
	EndMount("L");

	translate([0,MountBlock[1]/2,BridgeThick/2])
	cube([JoinerLength,MountBlock[1],BridgeThick] + [2*Protrusion,0,0],center=true);

	translate([-XOffset,0,0])
	EndMount("R");
	}
	}

	//———-
	// Build them

	if (Layout == "EndBlock")
	EndBlock("L");

	if (Layout == "EndMount")
	EndMount("R");

	if (Layout == "MidMount")
	MidMount();

	if (Layout == "BuildJoined") {
	translate([-(JoinerLength + 2*MountBlock[0]),0,0])
	EndMount("L");

	MidMount();

	translate([(JoinerLength + 2*MountBlock[0]),0,0])
	EndMount("R");
	}

	if (Layout == "Build") {
	translate([-MountBlock[0],0,0])
	EndMount("L");

	translate([MountBlock[0],0,0])
	EndMount("R");
	}

view raw

Kitchen Light Bracket – angled.scad

hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2016-12-20

Quilt Blocks: Scan and Montage

Mary has been working on the Splendid Sampler project, with 56 completed blocks (*) stacked on her sewing table. We agreed that those blocks would make a nice background for our Christmas Letter, but the labor involved to photograph all the fabric squares and turn them into a page seemed daunting.

Turned out it wasn’t all that hard, at least after we eliminated all the photography and hand-editing.

The 6½x6½ inch blocks include a ¼ inch seam allowance on all sides and, Mary being fussy about such things, they’re all just about perfect. I taped a template around one block on the scanner glass:

Then set XSane to scan at 150 dpi and save sequentially numbered files, position a square scan area over the middle of the template, and turn off all the image enhancements to preserve a flat color balance.

With “picture taking” reduced to laying each square face-down on the glass, closing the lid, and clicking Scan, the scanner’s throughput became the limiting factor. She scanned the blocks in the order of their release, while tinkering the auto-incremented file number across the (few) gaps in her collection, to produce 56 files with unimaginative auto-generated names along the lines of Block 19.jpg, thusly:

The “square” images were 923×933 pixels, just slightly larger than the ideal finished size of 6 inch × 150 dpi = 900 pixel you’d expect, because we allowed a wee bit (call it 1/16 inch) on all sides to avoid cutting away the sharp points and, hey, I didn’t get the scan area exactly square.

With the files in hand, turning them into a single page background image requires a single Imagemagick incantation:

montage -verbose B*jpg -density 150 -geometry "171x173+0+0" -tile "7x" Page.jpg

I figured the -geometry value to fill the 8 inch page width at 150 dpi, which is good enough for a subdued background image: 8 inch × 150 dpi / 7 images = 171 pixels. Imagemagick preserves the aspect ratio of the incoming images during the resize, so, because these images are slightly higher than they are wide, the height must be slightly larger to avoid thin white borders in the unused space. With all that figured, you get a 1197×1384 output image.

Bumping the contrast makes the colors pop, even if they’re not quite photo-realistic:

Quilt block montage - contrast — Quilt block montage – contrast

I’ll lighten that image to make the Christmas Letter text (in the foreground, atop the “quilt”) readable, which is all in the nature of fine tuning.

She has 40-odd blocks to go before she can piece them together and begin quilting, with a few other projects remaining to be finished:

(*) She’s a bit behind the block schedule, having had a year of gardening, bicycling, and other quilting projects, plus whatever else happens around here. Not a problem, as we see it.

2016-12-19

60 kHz Preamp: Simulation

This circuitry descends directly from a QEX article (Nov/Dec 2015, p 13) by John Magliacane, KD2BD: A Frequency Standard for Today’s WWVB. The key part, at least for me, is a 60 kHz preamplifier using a resonant-tuned loop antenna and an instrumentation amplifier to reject common-mode interference from local electrostatic fields.

I tinkered up an LTSpice IV simulation using somewhat more contemporary parts (clicky for more dots):

60 kHz Preamp - LTSpice schematic — 60 kHz Preamp – LTSpice schematic

The simulation quickly revealed that the original schematic interchanged the filter amp’s pins 2 and 3; the filter doesn’t work at all when you swap the + and – inputs.

The stuff in the dotted box fakes the loop antenna parameters, with a small differential AC signal that injects roughly the right voltage to simulate a nominal 100 µV/m WWVB field strength. I biased the center tap to the DC virtual ground at + 10 V and bypassed it to circuit common, so the RF should produce a nice differential signal about the virtual ground. The 5 kΩ resistors provide ESD protection and should help tamp down damage from nearby lightning strikes and suchlike.

It works pretty much as you’d expect:

60 kHz Preamp - Frequency Response — 60 kHz Preamp – Frequency Response

The LT1920 is mostly flat with 40 dB gain out through 60 kHz, although the actual hardware becomes a nice oscillator with that much gain; my layout and attention to detail evidently leaves a bit to be desired. The LF353 implements a multiple-feedback bandpass filter with about 20 dB of gain; its 4 MHz GBW gives it enough headroom. The LT1010 can drive 150 mA and, with a bit of luck and AC coupling, will feed a 50 Ω SDR input just fine.

This obviously turns into a Circuit Cellar column: March 2017, if you’re waiting by the mailbox.

2016-12-16

Kenmore Progressive Vacuum Tool Adapters: Second Failure

Pretty much as expected, the dust brush nozzle failed again, adjacent to the epoxy repair:

Dust brush adapter - second break — Dust brush adapter – second break

A bit of rummaging turned up some ¾ inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe which, despite the fact that no plumbing measurement corresponds to any physical attribute, had about the right OD to fit inside the adapter’s ID:

Dust brush - PVC reinforcement — Dust brush – PVC reinforcement

The enlarged bore leaves just barely enough space for a few threads around the circumference. Fortunately, the pipe OD is a controlled dimension, because it must fit inside all the molded PVC elbows / tees / caps / whatever.

The pipe ID isn’t a controlled dimension and, given that the walls seemed far too thick for this purpose, I deployed the boring bar:

Dust brush adapter - reinforced tube - boring — Dust brush adapter – reinforced tube – boring

That’s probably too much sticking out of the chuck, but sissy cuts saved the day. The carriage stop keeps the boring bar 1 mm away from the whirling chuck.

Bandsaw it to length and face the ends:

Dust brush adapter - reinforcement — Dust brush adapter – reinforcement

The PVC tube extends from about halfway along the steep taper from the handle fitting out to the end, with the section closest to the handle making the most difference.

Ram it flush with the end:

Dust brush adapter - reinforced tube - detail — Dust brush adapter – reinforced tube – detail

I thought about gluing it in place, but it’s a sufficiently snug press fit that I’m sure it won’t go anywhere.

Natural PETG probably isn’t the right color:

Dust brush adapter - reinforced tube - installed — Dust brush adapter – reinforced tube – installed

Now, let’s see how long that repair lasts …

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	//——————-
	// eBay horsehair dusting brush
	// Hacked for 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC stiffening tube

	module DustBrush() {

	union() {
	translate([0,0,40.0])
	rotate([180,0,0])
	difference() {
	union() {
	cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=31.8,h=10.0);
	translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
	cylinder(d1=32.0,d2=30.0,h=30.0 + Protrusion);
	}
	translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
	cylinder(d1=26.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
	translate([0,0,-Protrusion]) // 3/4 inch Sch 40 PVC
	PolyCyl(27.0,100);
	}
	translate([0,0,40.0 – Protrusion])
	MaleFitting();
	}
	}

view raw Kenmore Wand Bushings – Reinforced Dust Brush Adapter.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2016-11-29

Cropping Images in a PDF

For reasons not relevant here, I had a PDF made from scanned page images with far too much whitespace around the Good Stuff. As with all scanned pages, the margins contain random artifacts that inhibit automagic cropping, so manual intervention was required.

Extract the images as sequentially numbered JPG files:

pdfimages -j mumble.pdf mumble

Experimentally determine how much whitespace to remove, then:

for f in mumble-0??.jpg ; do convert -verbose $f -shave 225x150 ${f%%.*}a.jpg ; done

You could use mogrify to shave the images in-place. However, not modifying the files simplifies the iteration process by always starting with the original images.

Stuff the cropped images back into a PDF:

convert mumble-0??a.jpg mumble-shaved.pdf

Profit!

2016-11-18

Compose Key Sequences for Useful Unicode Characters

If you activate a Compose key on your keyboard:

Then you can insert Unicode characters without memorizing their hex values. Of course, you must memorize the Compose key sequences. Fortunately, they’re more-or-less mnemonic for the ones I occasionally use, which are hereby cherrypicked from that list.

Press-and-release the Compose key (right-Win), then type the characters as shown to get the symbol in quotes:

o o “°” degree # DEGREE SIGN
o r “®” registered # REGISTERED SIGN
t m “™” U2122 # TRADE MARK SIGN
s m “℠” U2120 # SERVICE MARK
. . “…” ellipsis # HORIZONTAL ELLIPSIS
. – “·” periodcentered # MIDDLE DOT
. = “•” enfilledcircbullet # BULLET
+ – “±” plusminus # PLUS-MINUS SIGN (∓ MINUS-PLUS is U2213)
x x “×” multiply # MULTIPLICATION SIGN
< < “«” guillemotleft # LEFT-POINTING DOUBLE ANGLE QUOTATION MARK
> > “»” guillemotright # RIGHT-POINTING DOUBLE ANGLE QUOTATION MARK
c / “¢” cent # CENT SIGN
– – . “–” U2013 # EN DASH
– – – “—” U2014 # EM DASH
< – “←” U2190 # LEFTWARDS ARROW
| ^ “↑” U2191 # UPWARDS ARROW
– > “→” U2192 # RIGHTWARDS ARROW
| v “↓” U2193 # DOWNWARDS ARROW
= > “⇒” U21D2 # RIGHTWARDS DOUBLE ARROW
? ! “‽” U203D # INTERROBANG
p o o “💩” U1F4A9 # PILE OF POO
m u “µ” mu # MICRO SIGN
d i “⌀” U2300 # DIAMETER SIGN
1 4 “¼” onequarter # VULGAR FRACTION ONE QUARTER
1 2 “½” onehalf # VULGAR FRACTION ONE HALF
3 4 “¾” threequarters # VULGAR FRACTION THREE QUARTERS
1 1 0 “⅒” U2152 # VULGAR FRACTION ONE TENTH (and similar)
^ 1 “¹” onesuperior # SUPERSCRIPT ONE (also 0 2 3 + -…)
_ 1 “₁” U2081 # SUBSCRIPT ONE (also 0 2 3 + -…)
e ‘ “é” eacute # LATIN SMALL LETTER E WITH ACUTE
e ` “è” egrave # LATIN SMALL LETTER E WITH GRAVE

Producing Greek letters requires a “dead_greek” key, so it’s easier to start with bare hex Unicode values at U0391 (Α) and U03b1 (α) and work upward until you find what you need:

U03A3 Σ uppercase sigma
U03a9 Ω uppercase omega
U03C3 σ lowercase sigma
U03c9 ω lowercase omega
U03c4 τ lowercase tau
U03c0 π lowercase pi
U0394 Δ uppercase delta
U03F4 ϴ uppercase theta
U03B8 θ lowercase theta
U03D5 ϕ phi math symbol
U03A6 Φ uppercase phi
U03C6 φ lowercase phi

Odds and ends:

U00a0 | | non-breaking space
U2007 | | figure space (invisible digit space)
U202F | | narrow space
U2011 ‑ non-breaking hyphen
U2030 ′ prime (not quote)
U2033 ″ double-prime (not double-quote)
U2018 ‘ left single quote
U2019 ’ right single quote
U201C “ left double quote
U201D ” right double quote
U2245 ≅ approximately equal
U2264 ≤ less-than or equal
U2265 ≥ greater-than or equal
U221A √ square root
U221B ∛ cube root
U221C ∜ fourth root (yeah, right)
U221D ∝ proportional to
U2300 ⌀ diameter
U25CA ◊ lozenge

If you set the keyboard layout to US International With Dead Keys, maybe you (definitely not I) could remember all the dead keys.

2016-11-16

Vacuum Tube Lights: Poughkeepsie Day School Mini Maker Faire 2016

Should you be around Poughkeepsie today, drop in on the Poughkeepsie Day School’s Mini Maker Faire, where I’ll be showing off some glowy LED goodness:

21HB5A on platter - orange green — 21HB5A on platter – orange green

The 5U4GB side lighted dual rectifier looks pretty good after I increased the phase between the two LEDs:

5U4GB Full-wave vacuum rectifier - cyan red phase — 5U4GB Full-wave vacuum rectifier – cyan red phase

A gaggle of glowing vacuum tubes makes for a rather static display, though, so I conjured a color mixer so folks could play with the colors:

Color mixer - overview — Color mixer – overview

Three analog potentiometers set the intensity of the pure RGB colors on the 8 mm Genuine Adafruit Neopixels. A closer look at the circuitry shows it’s assembled following a freehand “the bigger the blob, the better the job” soldering technique:

Color mixer - controls — Color mixer – controls

The blended RGB color from a fourth Neopixel backlights the bulb to project a shadow of the filament on the front surface:

Color mixer - bulb detail — Color mixer – bulb detail

It’s worth noting that the three Genuine Adafruit 8 mm Neopixels have a nonstandard RGB color layout, while the knockoff 5050 SMD Neopixel on the bulb has the usual GRB layout. You can’t mix-n-match layouts in a single Neopixel string, so a few lines of hackage rearrange the R and G values to make the mixed colors come out right.

An IR proximity sensor lets you invert the colors with the wave of a fingertip to send Morse code in response to (some of) the vacuum tubes on display nearby. The sensor glows brightly in pure IR, with all the other LEDs going dark:

Color mixer - controls - IR image — Color mixer – controls – IR image

The switch sits in a little printed bezel to make it big enough to see. The slight purple glow in the visible-light picture comes from the camera’s IR sensitivity; you can’t see anything with your (well, my) unaided eyes.

The “chassis” emerged from the wood pile: a slab of laminate flooring and two strips of countertop, with a slab of bronze-tint acrylic from a Genuine IBM PC Printer Stand that had fallen on hard times quite a while ago. Bandsaw to size, belt-sand to smooth; nothing particularly precise, although I did use the Sherline for coordinate drilling:

Color mixer panel - drill setup — Color mixer panel – drill setup

That’s laying it all out by hand to get a feel for what it’ll look like and drilling the holes at actual coordinates to make everything line up neatly.

Hot melt glue and epoxy hold everything together, with foam tape securing the two PCBs. Those cap screws go into 10-32 brass inserts hammered into the laminate flooring strip.

There’s no schematic. Connect the pots to A0 through A2, wire the Neopixels in series from D8 with the bulb LED last in the string, wire the prox sensor to D9, and away you go.

It’s fun to play with colors!

The Arduino source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Color mixing demo for Mini Maker Faire
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ANU – November 2016

	#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>

	//———-
	// Pin assignments

	#define PIN_NEO 8 // DO – data out to first Neopixel
	#define PIN_HEARTBEAT 13 // DO – Arduino LED

	#define PIN_FLASH 9 // DI – flash button

	#define PIN_POTRED A0 // AI – red potentiometer
	#define PIN_POTGREEN A1 // AI – green potentiometer
	#define PIN_POTBLUE A2 // AI – blue potentiometer

	//———-
	// Constants

	#define PIXELS 4 // number of pixels

	#define PIXEL_RED 2 // physical channel layout
	#define PIXEL_GREEN 1
	#define PIXEL_BLUE 0

	#define PIXEL_MIX (PIXELS – 1) // pixel with mixed color

	#define PIXEL_FLASH (PIXELS – 1) // pixel that flashes

	// update LEDs only this many ms apart (minus loop() overhead)
	#define UPDATEINTERVAL 25ul
	#define UPDATEMS (UPDATEINTERVAL – 1ul)

	//———-
	// Globals

	// instantiate the Neopixel buffer array
	// color order is RGB for 8 mm diffuse LEDs, GRB for mixed 5050 LED at end

	Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(PIXELS, PIN_NEO, NEO_RGB + NEO_KHZ800);

	uint32_t FullWhite = strip.Color(255,255,255);
	uint32_t FullOff = strip.Color(0,0,0);

	// colors in each LED
	enum pixcolors {RED, GREEN, BLUE, PIXELSIZE};

	uint32_t PotColors[PIXELSIZE];

	uint32_t UniColor;

	unsigned long MillisNow;
	unsigned long MillisThen;

	//– Helper routine for printf()

	int s_putc(char c, FILE *t) {
	Serial.write(c);
	}

	//——————
	// Set the mood

	void setup() {

	pinMode(PIN_HEARTBEAT,OUTPUT);
	digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW); // show we arrived

	Serial.begin(57600);
	fdevopen(&s_putc,0); // set up serial output for printf()

	printf("Color Mixer Demo for Mini Maker Faire\r\nEd Nisley – KE4ZNU – November 2016\r\n");

	// set up pixels

	strip.begin();
	strip.show();

	// lamp test: a brilliant white flash on all pixels
	// pixel color layout doesn't matter for a white flash

	printf("Lamp test: flash white\r\n");

	for (byte i=0; i<5 ; i++) {
	for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with white
	strip.setPixelColor(j,FullWhite);
	}
	strip.show();
	delay(500);

	for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with black
	strip.setPixelColor(j,FullOff);
	}
	strip.show();
	delay(500);
	}

	// lamp test: walk a white flash along the string

	printf("Lamp test: walking white\r\n");

	strip.setPixelColor(0,FullWhite);
	strip.show();
	delay(500);

	for (int i=1; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
	digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,HIGH);
	strip.setPixelColor(i-1,FullOff);
	strip.setPixelColor(i,FullWhite);
	strip.show();
	digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW);
	delay(500);
	}

	strip.setPixelColor(strip.numPixels() – 1,FullOff);
	strip.show();
	delay(500);

	MillisNow = MillisThen = millis();

	}

	//——————
	// Run the mood

	void loop() {

	MillisNow = millis();
	if ((MillisNow – MillisThen) >= UPDATEMS) { // time for color change?

	digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,HIGH);

	PotColors[RED] = strip.Color(analogRead(PIN_POTRED) >> 2,0,0);
	PotColors[GREEN] = strip.Color(0,analogRead(PIN_POTGREEN) >> 2,0);
	PotColors[BLUE] = strip.Color(0,0,analogRead(PIN_POTBLUE) >> 2);

	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_RED,PotColors[RED]); // load up pot indicators
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN,PotColors[GREEN]);
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE,PotColors[BLUE]);

	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_MIX,strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_RED) \|
	strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN) \|
	strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE));
	if (PIXEL_FLASH != PIXEL_MIX) {
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH,strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_MIX));
	}

	if (LOW == digitalRead(PIN_FLASH)) { // if flash input active, overlay flash
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH,0x00FFFFFF ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_FLASH));
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_RED, 0x00FF0000 ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_RED));
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN,0x0000FF00 ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_GREEN));
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE, 0x000000FF ^ strip.getPixelColor(PIXEL_BLUE));
	}

	UniColor = 0x000000ff & strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1); // hack to rearrange colors for 5050 LED
	UniColor \|= 0x00ff0000 & (strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1) << 8);
	UniColor \|= 0x0000ff00 & (strip.getPixelColor(PIXELS – 1) >> 8);
	strip.setPixelColor(PIXELS – 1,UniColor);

	strip.show(); // send out colors

	MillisThen = MillisNow;
	digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW);
	}

	}

view raw ColorMixer.ino hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2016-11-12