The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Science

If you measure something often enough, it becomes science

  • Craftsman Hedge Trimmer: Laying on of Hands Repair

    Craftsman Hedge Trimmer: Laying on of Hands Repair

    It being the season for hacking down decorative grasses, our ancient Craftsman Hedge Trimmer woke up dead, a decade after I fixed its switch and predicted it’d be good for another decade.

    After verifying the failure isn’t in the wall outlet or the extension cord, haul it to the Basement Laboratory Repair Wing, clamp the blade in the bench vise, remove a myriad screws, and pop the top:

    Craftsman Hedge Trimmer - innards exposed
    Craftsman Hedge Trimmer – innards exposed

    I should have removed the screw in the extreme lower right corner and loosened the similar screw at the rear of the bottom plate; they’re two of the three machine screws engaging nuts embedded in the shell. Everything is greasy enough to let the nuts slide right out of the plastic and no harm was done, but that need not be so.

    After poking around a bit and finding nothing obvious, I checked the resistance across the plug: open-circuit with the switch OFF and nearly shorted with the switch ON.

    Huh.

    Put the case back together with just enough screws to prevent heartache & confusion, unclamp the blade, plug into the bench outlet, discover it works fine again, reinstall the rest of the screws, and continue the mission:

    Decorative grass bunches - early spring clearcut
    Decorative grass bunches – early spring clearcut

    We moved the Praying Mantis oothecae to nearby bushes for science!

  • Batmax NP-BX1 Batteries

    Batmax NP-BX1 Batteries

    Having recently lost one of the year-old DOT-01 batteries, a quartet of Batmax NP-BX1 batteries for the Sony HDR-AS30V helmet camera just arrived:

    Batmax DOT-01 Wasabi NP-BX1 - 2020-04
    Batmax DOT-01 Wasabi NP-BX1 – 2020-04

    The orange curve is the last surviving (“least dead”) Wasabi battery from the 2017-08 batch and the dark green curve just above it is another DOT-01 from 2019-02. The problem is not so much their reduced capacity, but their grossly reduced voltage-under-load that triggers a premature camera shutdown.

    The Batmax batteries measure better than the craptastic Wasabi batteries, worse than the STK batteries, and should survive the next year of riding. As before, I have zero belief that Amazon would send me a “genuine” Sony NP-BX1 battery, even at six times the nominal price, nor that it would perform six times better.

    Batmax is one of many randomly named Amazon Marketplace sellers offering seemingly identical NP-BX1 batteries: Newmowa, Miady, Powerextra, Pickle Power, LP, Enegon, and so forth. Mysteriously, it’s always cheaper to get a handful of batteries and a charger, rather than just the batteries, so I now have a two-socket USB charger:

    Batmax NP-BX1 - USB dual charger
    Batmax NP-BX1 – USB dual charger

    Despite the “5 V 2 A – 10 W” and “4.2 V 0.6 A – 5 W” label on the back, charging a pair of batteries after a ride started at 700 mA from a USB 3.0 port. The charger makes no claims about USB 3 compliance, so I’d expect it to top out around 1 A from a generously specified port.

  • Diamond-Drag Styrene Engraving: Scraped Enamel

    Diamond-Drag Styrene Engraving: Scraped Enamel

    For the first time in a loooong time, I applied Testors Gloss Enamel paint to styrene plastic:

    Engraving Testpiece D - Testors Enamel - red
    Engraving Testpiece D – Testors Enamel – red

    Two coats of black paint produced the larger areas along the inner scales and completely filled those engraved lines:

    Engraving Testpiece D - Testors Enamel - red black applied
    Engraving Testpiece D – Testors Enamel – red black applied

    With exactly the correct paint on exactly the correct material, it cured into a non-removable layer. Being enamel, however, the last coat requires two or three days for a full cure, so this isn’t a short-attention-span project.

    It’s “non-removable” unless you’re willing to abrade the surface:

    Engraving Testpiece D - Testors Enamel - scrape sand - overview
    Engraving Testpiece D – Testors Enamel – scrape sand – overview

    Sanding tends to remove too much plastic, particularly when confronted with raised walls & suchlike along the grooves. The darkest scale down the middle was engraved with 300 g downforce and is deep enough to retain all its paint:

    Engraving Testpiece D - Testors Enamel - sanded - 250 300 g - detail
    Engraving Testpiece D – Testors Enamel – sanded – 250 300 g – detail

    As expected, paint scrapers produce better results:

    Engraving Testpiece D - Testors Enamel - scrape - 250 300 g - detail
    Engraving Testpiece D – Testors Enamel – scrape – 250 300 g – detail

    There’s not much visible difference between the 250 g and 300 g scales.

    All the scraped lines are over 0.1 mm wide, with the heavier downforce producing maybe 0.12 mm.

    The double-coated lines are flush with the (scraped) surface and visibly matte. The single-coated regions have the usual glossy enamel finish remaining deep in the lines & numbers, with a thin matte outline flush with the surrounding surface. It’s basically impossible to photograph those features, at least for me.

    The colors are crisp & vivid: enamel paint is the way to go!

    The next testpiece should run downforce variations from 300 through 500 g and speeds from 1000 to 2400 mm/min. Scraping off the raised plastic before painting should deliver a better ahem painting experience without much surface damage; the trick will be clearing all the debris from the engraved lines.

  • Diamond-Drag Styrene Engraving: Scraped Sharpie

    Applying only two Sharpie colors to the third quadrant of the engraving testpiece produces a more restrained result:

    Diamond on styrene C - scraped red-black Sharpie - start
    Diamond on styrene C – scraped red-black Sharpie – start

    Instead of sanding the surface, I used a paint scraper to remove everything down to the engraved grooves. The scraper in the upper right is a Rubbermaid 54807, which is apparently no longer available. If I ever buy a new scraper, I’ll spring for a carbide blade.

    A dirt speck under the plastic sheet can still obliterate the markings, though:

    Diamond on styrene C - scraped red-black Sharpie - first clearing
    Diamond on styrene C – scraped red-black Sharpie – first clearing

    Overall, the results look just like a real slipstick:

    Diamond on styrene C - scraped red-black Sharpie - 225 300 g scale detail
    Diamond on styrene C – scraped red-black Sharpie – 225 300 g scale detail

    The upper scale was engraved at 225 g downforce, the lower at 300 g, with corresponding differences in width & depth.

    Seen at higher magnification with omnidirectional light through the microscope, the tick marks have more detail:

    Diamond on styrene C - scraped red-black Sharpie - 225 300 g line detail
    Diamond on styrene C – scraped red-black Sharpie – 225 300 g line detail

    The upper ticks are 0.1 mm wide and the lower ticks a scant 0.2 mm wide. Both ticks on the sanded Sharpie sample were close to 0.1 mm, which suggests:

    • Scraping removes less plastic
    • The grooves have a flat-ish bottom and side walls roughly matching the slightly worn 60° diamond tool

    Sharpie ink is, of course, soluble in alcohol:

    Diamond on styrene C - scraped red-black Sharpie - alcohol wipe
    Diamond on styrene C – scraped red-black Sharpie – alcohol wipe

    That’s not unexpected, as I’ve been removing Sharpie with alcohol forever, but it’s worth keeping in mind. I don’t know if spraying a clear topcoat (Krylon FTW!) would provide good sealing with enough wear resistance.

  • Diamond-Drag Styrene Engraving: Line Width

    Engraving all the Tek Circuit Computer scales on a single sheet of styrene plastic with a diamond drag tool produced a test piece with plenty of lines and characters:

    Diamond on styrene - engraving test - in action
    Diamond on styrene – engraving test – in action

    I covered one quarter with good old black Sharpie, a lacquer crayon, and well-aged black acrylic wall paint:

    Diamond on styrene - engraving test - raw color fill
    Diamond on styrene – engraving test – raw color fill

    Applying a sanding block removed the rubble + scribbles and brought the surface down to the engraved patterns:

    Diamond on styrene - engraving test - 225 250 300g 2400mm-min
    Diamond on styrene – engraving test – 225 250 300g 2400mm-min

    The lacquer crayon doesn’t seem to adhere well to styrene:

    Diamond on styrene - 225 250 g 2400mm-min - lacquer crayon
    Diamond on styrene – 225 250 g 2400mm-min – lacquer crayon

    A closer look shows I probably sanded off too much of the surface, perhaps above some grit below the sheet, because those lines almost vanish:

    Diamond on styrene - 225 250 g 2400mm-min - lacquer crayon
    Diamond on styrene – 225 250 g 2400mm-min – lacquer crayon

    The crayon may adhere better to deeper lines. These are obviously too shallow and the pigment seems to come off in chunks:

    Diamond on styrene - 300g 2400mm-min - lacquer crayon
    Diamond on styrene – 300g 2400mm-min – lacquer crayon

    The acrylic trim paint filled its patterns, despite having turned into a gummy mass during decades on the shelf:

    Diamond on styrene - 225g 2400mm-min - acrylic paint
    Diamond on styrene – 225g 2400mm-min – acrylic paint

    The Sharpie ink, being basically a thin liquid, completely filled its patterns and (apparently) soaked into the rough side walls. The lines seem to be 0.1 mm wide at 225 g downforce:

    Diamond on styrene - 225g 2400mm-min - Sharpie
    Diamond on styrene – 225g 2400mm-min – Sharpie

    They’re less uniform at 250 g:

    Diamond on styrene - 250g 2400mm-min - Sharpie
    Diamond on styrene – 250g 2400mm-min – Sharpie

    A 300 g downforce produces (somewhat) more uniform 0.15 mm wide lines and slightly distorted characters:

    Diamond on styrene - 300g 2400mm-min - Sharpie
    Diamond on styrene – 300g 2400mm-min – Sharpie

    I have no way to measure the actual engraving depth. If the 60° diamond tool had a perfect point, which it definitely doesn’t, then a 0.15 mm wide trench would be 0.13 mm deep. I’ve obviously sanded off some of the surface, so those lines could be, at most, 0.1 mm deep.

    All in all, the engraving came out better than I expected!

  • Monthly Science: Maria Mitchell Astronomy Notebooks

    Back in 2016, the Special Collection Library at Vassar put on Seeing the Sun: Maria Mitchell’s Observations, 1868-1888, an exhibit featuring materials from her tenure as Vassar’s astronomer, including several notebooks of observations and calculations. Being that type of guy, I spent quite a while pondering the effort required to do science.

    Perhaps this notebook appeared in the exhibit:

    Mitchell 8.6 - Longitude computations of occultations 1872-1875
    Mitchell 8.6 – Longitude computations of occultations 1872-1875

    Here’s what “calculations” looked like in 1872:

    Mitchell 8.6 p9 - Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs - calculation
    Mitchell 8.6 p9 – Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs – calculation

    Yeah, grinding out trigonometry by hand using seven-place logarithms:

    Mitchell 8.6 p9 - Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs - calculation detail 1
    Mitchell 8.6 p9 – Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs – calculation detail 1

    Not just by hand, but by hand with pen and ink:

    Mitchell 8.6 p9 - Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs - calculation detail 2
    Mitchell 8.6 p9 – Occultation of 1253 BAC at 11 hrs – calculation detail 2

    Although you’ll find an occasional ink blot, she was probably using a fountain pen, rather than a dip pen, and made very few mistakes along the way. She often recorded direct instrument observations in pencil.

    The next time you start pissing & moaning about how hard solid modeling is, suck it up.

    Bonus: a Ginger Snap recipe suggesting it wasn’t all toil & trouble in the observatory:

    Mitchell 7.5 - Ginger Snap recipe
    Mitchell 7.5 – Ginger Snap recipe

    The mystery ingredient is saleratus, “aerated salt”, now known as baking soda; they used potassium bicarbonate before today’s sodium bicarbonate.

    I spent several pleasant hours browsing through selected notebooks in search of computations, taking pictures of pages under field conditions in ambient light. All images from Maria Mitchell Papers, Archives and Special Collections, Vassar College Libraries.

  • Video-rated MicroSD Card Status Report

    Having just returned from the fourth ride of the season, it’s worthwhile to note how the MicroSD cards in the cameras are doing.

    The Sony HDR-AS30V helmet camera has been running a 64 GB Sandisk high-endurance video-rated card since late August 2017:

    Sandisk - 64 GB MicroSDXC cards
    Sandisk – 64 GB MicroSDXC cards

    In those 29 calendar months (maybe 20 riding months) I’ve ridden 4500-ish miles at perhaps 12 mph, so call it 375 hr = 22.5 k min. The camera fills a 4 GB file every 22.75 min, so it’s recorded 1000 files = 4 TB, which is 62× its capacity. This is better than the defunct Sandisk Extreme Pro card (3 TB & 50×) and much much better than the Sony cards (1 TB & 15×), although I have caught the camera in RCVR mode maybe twice, which means the card or camera occasionally coughs and reformats itself.

    The Cycliq Fly6 rear camera uses a Sandisk 32 GB card that’s been running flawlessly since late 2017:

    MicroSD 32 GB - Samsung EVO and SanDisk High Endurance
    MicroSD 32 GB – Samsung EVO and SanDisk High Endurance

    The new 16850 lithium cell continues to work fine, too.

    The SJCam M20 rear camera also uses a Sandisk 32 GB high-endurance card and has worked fine since early 2018. An external battery eliminated all the hassle of its feeble internal batteries, although the one that’s been in there has faded to the point of just barely keeping the clock ticking over during winter weeks without rides:

    SJCAM M20 Mount - Tour Easy side view
    SJCAM M20 Mount – Tour Easy side view

    All in all, paying the premium for video-rated MicroSD cards has been worthwhile!