Cycliq Fly6: Battery Replacement

After verifying my defunct Cycliq Fly6 has a dead battery, I ordered a handful of 18650 cells from Batteryspace (a known-reputable source):

Fly6 - battery replacement - Samsung label
Fly6 – battery replacement – Samsung label

The transplanted protection PCB goes between the tabs, with a nickel strip snippet because I didn’t cut the old strip in the right place:

Fly6 - battery replacement - PCB
Fly6 – battery replacement – PCB

The PCB goes under a manila paper layer, the ends get similar caps, and the whole affair receives an obligatory Kapton tape wrap:

Fly6 - battery replacement - endcap
Fly6 – battery replacement – endcap

Reassembly is in reverse order. I now know the Fly6 will reset / start up when the battery connector snaps into place, but, because it emits identical battery-charge beeps when it starts and shuts off, there’s no way to tell what state it’s in. I don’t see any good way to install the ribbon cable from the LED PCB before plugging in the battery, so just blindly press-and-hold the power button to shut it off.

After an overnight charge, it makes videos of my desk just fine and will, I expect, do the same on the bike.

Now that I’ve taken the thing apart, I should open it up and tinker with the (glued-down) camera focus adjustment to discover whether:

We’ll find out when the weather warms up in a week or two.

5 thoughts on “Cycliq Fly6: Battery Replacement

  1. How did you attach the tabs to the new cell, or are they merely not visible in the first picture?

    1. I spent the big money to have Batteryspace weld the tabs. They’re aimed backwards in the first picture, with the PCB soldered to put the conspicuous bend in the wires exactly on the end of the cell.

  2. Ed – Since you have a FLY6 disassembled – how plausible would it be to swap white or amber LEDs for the stock red – and use it for a forward facing light/camera (paired with a unmodified red rear facing unit)


    1. Electrically, amber LEDs should work, but the forward voltage of white LEDs would be too high. If there’s a voltage booster in there, it’s definitely set for red LEDs.

      The dealkiller, though, is the pure red plastic lens / case. Changing the LED color would just make them dimmer, because only red light gets out into the world!

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