Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Trace the outlines and lay smooth curves around them with Inkscape:
Remote profiles – Inkscape curves
They needed a slight lengthening to account for the gauge pin diameter & deflection, but this isn’t a precision project.
Do the same with a scan of the front face, import the curves into OpenSCAD, extrude them, create a solid model of the remote from their mutual intersection, then add a cylinder to punch the depression for the steel plate:
Floor Lamp Remote Holder – solid model – bottom
The chonky model corners stick out too far compared to the stylin’ curves on the real remote, but I made the holder shorter than the remote specifically to avoid fussing with such details.
Floor Lamp Remote Holder – solid model – Show view
I briefly considered a circumferential clamp around the pipe before coming to my senses and making the pipe diameter 2 mm larger to accommodate a strip of double-sided foam tape.
The magnet gets a ferocious grip on the plate and I defined the result to be All Good™.
The OpenSCAD source code and SVG paths as a GitHub Gist:
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Paper sheets must lay flat in storage, but it’s impossible to extract a single sheet from a tall pile. So I converted some moving boxes into stackable trays, each holding about a ream of paper:
Letter Paper Tray – installed
The starting point is a stackable Universal Box from boxes.py, with one end reshaped to become a tray. One Home Depot Large moving box provides enough 4.0 mm cardboard to make four trays, with one side of the box left over for future projects:
Letter Paper Storage Racks – LightBurn screenshot
The gray rectangle in the middle is the LightBurn workspace grid representing the 700×500 mm laser platform:
Letter Paper Tray – laser cutting
Contrary to the screenshot, I move all the layouts off to the side leaving the platform grid clear. The blue rectangles around the layouts represent the various box flaps / sides, so I can:
Click a layout (which is grouped with the surrounding rectangle)
Click Ctrl-D to duplicate it
Hit P to put the duplicate at the middle of the platform grid
Lay the corresponding cardboard sheet from that box part on the platform
Align the layout with the cardboard using the camera
Fire The Laser
Copious application of hot melt glue gloms all the pieces together.
I added support beams under the cardboard bottom plate:
Letter Paper Tray – bottom
A 2 mm arch in the top of those strips puts a camber into the sheet to counteract the natural sag from carrying five pounds of paper. The four trays at the far left lack that camber and cry out for a Mulligan.
Some day the Basement Shop™ won’t smell like a campfire.
Mary gave her Juki TL-2010Q sewing machine a deep cleaning & oiling, deputizing me to remove & replace the covers.
For the record, standing the machine on its left end is the least-awful way to get the bottom cover off and on:
Juki TL2010Q – bottom cover on end
You must remove all six of those husky screws; the black feet remain firmly stuck in their recesses. It’s not particularly stable in that orientation, so keep a firm hand on the top to prevent an expensive fall.
I laid it down for the rest of the session:
Juki TL2010Q – interior cleaning
She was unenthusiastic about wearing my headband light. Maybe next time.
It reassembled in reverse order and, after a brief tussle with the bobbin winder finger in the upper covers, runs smoothly.
The dotted rectangle in the lower left corner is the (turned off) front light in my low-budget light box and the glare in the upper left comes from the overhead basement LED strip lights.
AFAICT, “metallic paper” consists of shiny aluminum film bonded to heavy paper / cardstock, with transparent colored film bonded atop the aluminum. The sheet is, of course, highly reflective, which looks dark unless it’s reflecting a bright surface, like the well-lit Sewing Room ceiling:
Metallic layered paper – vs art paper
I made the bright Pyrotechnics block in the upper left with art paper that looks bright & cheerful in any lighting:
Metallic layered paper – art paper Pyrotechnics block
Making 200×200 mm layered paper “pictures” involved cutting the square blanks from 8½×11 Letter sheets, putting those blanks in a fixture to hold them flat, then cutting the layer patterns:
Layered Paper cutting fixture – in use
That worked well enough, but it occurred to me that I should cut the patterns directly into the Letter sheet, with a couple of tabs on each edge holding the square to the sheet so it didn’t fall free.
A cardboard prototype showed this would actually work, at least after I fixed the tab width to keep them from just evaporating:
Pyrotechnics – metallized paper fixture
The top and bottom strips of tape hold cardboard bars that flatten the slightly curled metallic paper. The tape on the sides holds the cardboard flat to the knife bars across the laser platform.
A few adjustments later, I had an MDF version:
Letter paper fixture – cardboard vs MDF
Which fits atop the bars even better:
Letter paper fixture – on knife bars
Cutting colored paper definitely makes for cheerful chaff!
The two bar magnets hold the fixture in place on the steel platform rim. The aluminum knife bars stand slightly proud of the steel, so there’s a 1.4 mm chipboard shim glued under the fixture to put it flat on the bars.
The opening is 10 mm smaller than the Letter sheet to support it all around. The recess is 1 mm larger than the sheet to allow for slight size variations, with an MDF ring flattening the sheet:
Letter paper fixture – sheet in place
The four targets in the corners correspond to targets in the LightBurn template suitable for Print and Cut alignment:
Letter sheet template – LightBurn layout
The alert reader will note the fixture targets on the MDF fixture sit juuuust slightly to the right of where they are in the template. It turns out the targets cannot be grouped with anything else (or even each other), because when you select a target on the template for Print and Cut the center of the selection must match the location of the physical target on the fixture.
However, it’s convenient to have the rest of the template grouped into a single lump, so it’s painfully easy to select and move only the template while leaving the targets behind. It seems while setting up to mark & cut the template, I managed to click-n-drag the group a few millimeters to the left.
I eventually used Print and Cut to align the template and target with the corners of that MDF frame, re-engrave the targets at the correct locations, and scribble over the misplaced targets. If I don’t tell anybody, they’ll never know.
We deployed low-effort vole trap boxes a few weeks ago, only to discover no voles checked in, most likely due to wintertime gardens consisting of bare earth. I had weighted the boxes with convenient rocks that pretty much crushed them flat during rainstorms.
So I converted a few dozen square feet of cardboard into better-looking boxes and transferred the traps:
Vole Finger Box – large
That one has a rat trap inside.
Smaller boxes hold mouse traps:
Vole Finger Box – small
Two pairs of 4 mm holes on the bottom flanges fit some spare irrigation pipe holddowns to, yes, hold them down, with those rotten planks keeping their lids in place.
They’re lightly customized “Electronics Boxes” held together by hot-melt glue. The jawbreaker URLs will get you started:
The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning 
