The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

  • Improved Alignment Pin Hole for Split 3D Prints

    I’ve been working on an object (more on this later) that requires precise alignment of two parts that capture a nut deep inside. This calls for alignment pins, similar to the ones I used for, say, the Triple-Cylinder Thing:

    Cylinder Thing - rotated
    Cylinder Thing – rotated

    The general idea is to design holes that fit the pins, then locate them at the parting line of the model, where they’re subtracted from the solid and appear in exactly the proper places when the model splits for printing:

    Cylinder Thing - alignment pegs
    Cylinder Thing – alignment pegs

    You slather solvent glue on both halves, jam pins into the holes, slap the parts together, and clamp until cured. Works fine, I use pins all over the place.

    The gotcha of using just a (polygonal) cylinder as the hole: if you glue one end of the pin at a time, a small rim of dissolved plastic may form around the pin at the surface. That can bond the two halves together or prevent them from joining properly after being disassembled.

    Sooo, here’s a new alignment pin hole with a gutter around the pin on both surfaces to capture the glop:

    Alignment pin hole - overview
    Alignment pin hole – overview

    Remember, that’s the negative volume that will hold the pin, not the pin itself!

    Here’s how it works in real plastic, with a 1.75 mm peg glued into one hole with a bit of crud in the gutter:

    Alignment Hole and Pin
    Alignment Hole and Pin

    The secret to making the gutter work: offset the second layer by half the thread width, so that it’s reasonably well supported on the first layer. If you don’t do that, the inner layers simply drop down through the hole and fill the gutter. Even doing that, notice the distortion of the first few layers inside the hole.

    The OpenSCAD source code looks about like you’d expect:

    //-- Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin(Dia=PinOD,Len=5.00) {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    
    	translate([0,0,-2*ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((Dia + 1*ThreadWidth),4*ThreadThick,4);
    
    	translate([0,0,-(Len/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(Dia,(Len + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    }
    

    Ideally, the pin length should extend at least two diameters into each side of the object, but you can feed in whatever you need to make it come out right.

    The PolyCyl() routine produces a low-vertex-count polygon that circumscribes the nominal diameter, which is what you need for vertical holes in 3D printed objects:

    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    

    Tip o’ the cycling helmet to nophead for figuring out the polyhole idea and explaining why they’re needed…

  • Kitchen Spatula Handle Anchoring

    Shortly after we bought this kitchen scraper spatula (or whatever it’s called), the handle pulled out of the blade and left it sitting in a bowl of batter. That turned out to be unsurprising, given that neither side of the interface has any mechanical locking features. I rinsed the batter off, stuck some urethane glue inside, rammed the handle in place, and hoped for the best. Lacking any mechanical interlock and not bonding to either surface, the adhesive didn’t improve the situation.

    So I recently added a pair of stainless 4-40 setscrews standing just proud of the handle’s surface that should dig into the blade and hold it in place:

    Spatula handle enhancement
    Spatula handle enhancement

    Another item for the shopping list…

  • Samsung Quiet Jet Vacuum: Floor Brush Wheels

    After rebuilding the front end of the Samsung vacuum’s floor brush, I’d hoped that was the end of it; other than replacing the brush strips every now and again, it’s been cooperative. Recently, however, one of the wheels popped off, which revealed the minimal mechanism holding them in place:

    Samsung Quiet Jet - floor brush wheel interior
    Samsung Quiet Jet – floor brush wheel interior

    Those four delicate latches have worn themselves and the hub to the point where they ride over the edge at the slightest provocation. I pulled both wheels off and packed three turns of insulated wire (one turn is visible in the photo, as it was an iterative process) around the outside of the clips, with the intent of restoring enough force to hold the wheels in place until we exhaust the lifetime supply of bags I bought for the thing…

  • Hall Effect Sensor: Toroid Winding Direction

    Pop Quiz!

    What’s the difference between the winding on this toroid:

    Hall effect sensor - toroid CW field
    Hall effect sensor – toroid CW field

    And the winding on this one:

    Hall effect sensor - toroid CCW field
    Hall effect sensor – toroid CCW field

    Very good!

    In the first picture, the top lead goes down the hole. In the second picture, the bottom lead goes down the hole.

    Bonus question 1: Why is this important?

    The winding’s chirality determines the direction of the magnetic field in the toroid by the right hand rule: grab the wire with your right hand, with your thumb pointed in the direction of (conventional) current flow, then your fingers wrap around the wire in the direction of the induced field.

    The Hall effect sensor snuggled in the toroid’s gap produces a bipolar output that depends on both the magnetic field’s direction and intensity, so reversing the field direction changes the phase of the sensor output: an increasing field can either increase or decrease the sensor’s output.

    Bonus question 2: For a given sensor orientation, what’s the probability of winding the toroid correctly on the first try?

    Yup: zero. Wound it backwards…

    It’s not practical to reverse the sensor orientation, the leads weren’t quite long enough to swap, and turning the toroid upside-down is effectively the same as swapping the too-short leads.

    The size of the solder blob at the end of the top lead tells you everything you need to know about the sequence of the picvtures.

  • Broom Handle Screw With Dedendum: Effect of Printing Orientation

    Although the current OpenSCAD could produce a solid model with the screw thread’s dedendum, I’d never actually printed one of them:

    Broom Handle Screw - full thread - solid model
    Broom Handle Screw – full thread – solid model

    I need some fondlestuff illustrating how to handle overhangs, so I ran one standing vertically, which (pretty much as I expected) didn’t work well at all:

    Broom Handle Screw - dedendum - vertical
    Broom Handle Screw – dedendum – vertical

    The trick is to split the model down the middle:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal top
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal top

    And put holes in each half for alignment pins:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal bottom
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal bottom

    Then you can print it lying down:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal - as-printed top
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal – as-printed top

    The internal overhang would probably call for some support material, particularly in the square recess at the end, but in this case it’s a lesson:

    Broom Handle Screw - horizontal - as-printed bottom
    Broom Handle Screw – horizontal – as-printed bottom

    Glue some filament snippets into the holes, snap it together, and it looks just fine over there on the right:

    Broom Handle Screw - orientation comparison
    Broom Handle Screw – orientation comparison

    Doesn’t matter how many I print, it still doesn’t make any economic sense as a broom repair…

    The OpenSCAD source code now has a Layout variable to control the orientation and, not as shown in the model, the alignment pins have glue gutters in the first layer:

    // Broom Handle Screw End Plug
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
    
    Layout = "Horizontal";		// Vertical Horizontal Pin
    
    UseDedendum = true;			// true to create full thread form
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    PostOD = 22.3;				// post inside metal handle
    PostLength = 25.0;
    
    FlangeOD = 24.0;			// stop flange
    FlangeLength = 3.0;
    
    PitchDia = 15.5;			// thread center diameter
    ScrewLength = 20.0;
    
    ThreadFormOD = 2.5;			// diameter of thread form
    ThreadPitch = 5.0;
    NumSegments = 32;			//  .. number of cylinder approximations per turn
    
    BoltOD = 7.0;				// clears 1/4-20 bolt
    BoltSquare = 6.5;			// across flats
    BoltHeadThick = 3.0;
    
    RecessDia = 6.0;			// recesss to secure post in handle
    
    OALength = PostLength + FlangeLength + ScrewLength;
    
    SplitOC = 1.25*FlangeOD;	// separation in Horizontal layout
    PinOD = 1.75;				// alignment pin diameter = filament stub
    PinLength = 7.0;			//  ... length
    
    $fn=8*4;					// default cylinder sides
    
    echo("Pitch dia: ",PitchDia);
    echo("Root dia: ",PitchDia - ThreadFormOD);
    echo("Crest dia: ",PitchDia + ThreadFormOD);
    
    Pi = 3.14159265358979;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    // Wrap cylindrical thread segments around larger plug cylinder
    
    module CylinderThread(Pitch,Length,PitchDia,ThreadOD,PerTurn) {
    
    CylFudge = 1.02;				// force overlap
    
        RotIncr = 1/PerTurn;
        PitchRad = PitchDia/2;
    
        Turns = Length/Pitch;
        NumCyls = Turns*PerTurn;
    
        ZStep = Pitch / PerTurn;
    
        HelixAngle = atan(Pitch/(Pi*PitchDia));
        CylLength = CylFudge * (Pi*(PitchDia + ThreadOD) / PerTurn) / cos(HelixAngle);
    
    	for (i = [0:NumCyls-1]) {
    		assign(Angle = 360*i/PerTurn)
    			translate([PitchRad*cos(Angle),PitchRad*sin(Angle),i*ZStep])
    				rotate([90+HelixAngle,0,Angle])
    					cylinder(r1=ThreadOD/2,
    							r2=ThreadOD/(2*CylFudge),
    							h=CylLength,
    							center=true,$fn=12);
    	}
    }
    
    // Build complete plug
    
    module ScrewPlug() {
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    			cylinder(r=PostOD/2,h=PostLength);
    			cylinder(r=PitchDia/2,h=OALength);
    			translate([0,0,PostLength])
    				cylinder(r=FlangeOD/2,h=FlangeLength);
    			color("Orange")
    			translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength)])
    				CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,(ScrewLength - ThreadFormOD/2),PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
    		}
    
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			PolyCyl(BoltOD,(OALength + 2*Protrusion),6);
    
    		translate([0,0,(OALength - BoltHeadThick)])
    			PolyCyl(BoltSquare,(BoltHeadThick + Protrusion),4);
    
    		if (UseDedendum)
    			translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength + ThreadFormOD/2 - ThreadPitch/(2*NumSegments))])
    				rotate(-90 - 360/(2*NumSegments))
    				CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,ScrewLength,PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
    
    		for (i = [0:90:270]) {
    			rotate(45 + i)					// 45 works better with Horizontal layout
    				translate([PostOD/2,0,PostLength/2])
    					sphere(r=RecessDia/2,$fn=8);
    		}
    	}
    }
    
    // Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin() {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    	translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    
    }
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Vertical")
    	ScrewPlug();
    
    if (Layout == "Pin")
    	LocatingPin();
    
    if (Layout == "Horizontal")
    	for (i=[-1,1])
    		difference() {
    			translate([i*SplitOC/2,PostLength/2,0])
    				rotate([90,180*(i + 1)/2,0])
    					ScrewPlug();
    
    			translate([0,0,-FlangeOD/2])
    				cube([2*OALength,2*OALength,FlangeOD],center=true);
    
    			for (j=[-1,1], pin=[-1,1])
    				assign(PinX = i*SplitOC/2 + pin*(PostOD + BoltOD)/4,
    					   PinY = j*PostLength/4) {
    					translate([PinX,PinY,0])
    						rotate(45)
    							LocatingPin();
    					echo("i j pin: ",i,j,pin);
    					echo("X Y: ",PinX,PinY);
    				}
    		}
    
  • Plant Stand Feet

    The houseplants have migrated indoors after spending a summer charging up in the sun on the patio, which means it’s time to replace the silicone rubber feet on the bottom of the plant shelves. This year, I printed a set of feet to fit the hex-head adjustable feet:

    Plant Stand Foot - installed
    Plant Stand Foot – installed

    The pencil-stem plant on the left, for whatever it’s worth, is a perfectly healthy Rhipsalis that greatly enjoyed the summer sun.

    The feet print upside-down to give the surface around the hex a smooth finish. I used Slic3r’s Hilbert Curve for pattern a bit more interesting than the usual parallel lines:

    Plant Shelf Foot - as built
    Plant Shelf Foot – as built

    The Hilbert curve doesn’t fit neatly into a non-rectangular shape, but it’s close enough.

    The solid model includes the support structure:

    Plant Shelf Foot - solid model - bottom
    Plant Shelf Foot – solid model – bottom

    Which pops out cleanly:

    Plant Shelf Foot - support material detail
    Plant Shelf Foot – support material detail

    Yes, that’s a shred of red filament embedded on the left side. Cleanliness is next to impossible…

    The fuzzy felt feet come from a 6 mm thick slab of the stuff:

    Plant Shelf Foot - cutting felt plugs
    Plant Shelf Foot – cutting felt plugs

    The round socket wall leaves about 2 mm of felt showing at the bottom; it’s not very compressible and that should suffice to keep the plastic off the table.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Feet for a wire-shelf plant stand
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
    
    Layout = "Build";			// Show Build
    
    Support = true;
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    StandFootOD = 18.0;			// hex across flats
    StandFootDepth = 5.0;		//  ... socket depth
    
    FeltPadOD = 25.0;			// felt foot diameter
    FeltPadDepth = 4.0;			//  ... depth
    
    FootBaseThick = 6*ThreadThick;	// between foot and pad
    FootWall = 4*ThreadWidth;		// around exterior
    
    FootOD = 2*FootWall + max(StandFootOD,FeltPadOD);
    echo(str("Foot OD: ",FootOD));
    
    FootTall = StandFootDepth + FootBaseThick + FeltPadDepth;
    echo(str(" ... height: "),FootTall);
    
    NumSides = 8*4;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module FootPad() {
    
    	difference() {
    
    		cylinder(r=FootOD/2,h=FootTall,$fn=NumSides);
    
    		translate([0,0,FeltPadDepth + FootBaseThick])
    			PolyCyl(StandFootOD,2*StandFootDepth,6);
    
    		translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    			PolyCyl(FeltPadOD,(FeltPadDepth + Protrusion),NumSides);
    
    	}
    }
    
    // Locating pin hole with glue recess
    
    module LocatingPin() {
    
    	translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
    		PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
    	translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
    		PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
    
    }
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
      Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
      FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
      cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
               h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
      Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    if (Layout == "Show")
    	FootPad();
    
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    	translate([0,0,FootTall])
    		rotate([180,0,0])
    			FootPad();
    	if (Support)
    		color("Yellow")
    			for (Seg=[0:5]) {
    				rotate(30 + 360*Seg/6)
    				translate([0,0,(StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)/2])
    					cube([(StandFootOD - 3*ThreadWidth),
    						  2*ThreadWidth,
    						  (StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)],
    						  center=true);
    				}
    }
    
  • 3D Printed Bike Helmet Mirror Mount: Two Years Later

    A bit over two years ago, I hoped my design for a bike helmet mirror mount would prove to be more durable than the fragile commercial mirrors I’d given up on:

    Helmet mirror mount - 3D model - Fit layout
    Helmet mirror mount – 3D model – Fit layout

    Having just tightened the teeny screws that hold the joints in place for the first time since I glued it to the helmet, I’d say it’s working fine. The 2-56 elevation setscrew has worn a slight dent in the arc and the 3-48 azimuth screw worked slightly loose; the mirror didn’t fall apart, but the position wasn’t as stable as it should be.

    If I ever re-do the design, I’ll try adding a recessed metal (brass?) strip along the top of that arc, as that’s the most finicky adjustment. Perhaps a shoe under the setscrew would be better?

    Two years of road grit show up clearly against the yellow plastic, though:

    Bike helmet mirror mount - two years
    Bike helmet mirror mount – two years

    For the record, those 2-56 setscrews require 35 mil hex keys; as Eks reminds me, any design requiring those screws is just crazy talk.