Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
GCMC includes cycloids.gcmc, a test program producing a fixed set of hypotrochoids and epitrochoids, more commonly known as Spirograph patterns:
GGMC Cycloids test patterns
I’m using them to get familiar with bCNC’s Workspace Coordinate System settings and to exercise the MPCNC hardware; ya gotta plot before you can cut.
Most came out fine, but some showed distinct wobbles:
MPCNC – Cycloid wobble – star
Tight curves and higher speeds produce more wobbles:
MPCNC – Cycloid wobble – loops
You’d probably never feed a wood router over 6000 mm/min = 240 inch/min, so this isn’t as much of a problem as it might appear. Also, I expect a few pounds of router will have fewer wobbulations than a weightless pen hung on a thin plastic mount:
You can’t see the nib inside the cap, but you get the idea.
Flattening the top and adding a snippet of masking tape produces a better outcome:
MPCNC – Reshaped Tool Probe switch
I aligned the flat section so it’s parallel to the platform when the switch activates.
Stipulated: plotter pens aren’t a good test for tool length probing, because they have a locating flange to ensure a consistent position in the pen holder and a rigidly controlled flange-to-tip length:
HP 7475A Plotter Pen Body – in holder
What’s going on here involves configuring and testing bCNC’s overall tool change process: not using cutting tools preserves both sanity and hardware!
The flange offset puts the switch actuator on the midline of the base, not that that matters, and the base features rounded corners and a suitable legend, because I can.
I clipped the PCB’s through-hold leads nearly flush and stuck it to the flange with 3M permanent foam tape, which seems to work much better than screws & inserts for simple things that need never come apart.
The Protoneer CNC Shield includes a Probe input on the GRBL-compliant A5, although it took me a while to find the legend on the SCL pin in the I2C header. I moved the endstop power jumper to another header, then conjured a quick-and-dirty connector:
Protoneer CNC Shield – Tool Probe Wiring
When I embed the endstop switch PCB in epoxy, I’ll add a drop to the connector while engaging in Magical Thinking. The whole Arduino + CNC Shield must go into an enclosure after I finish measuring the motor currents.
To forestall discussions about switch repeatability and accuracy, suffice it to say the MPCNC doesn’t claim to be much more than a woodworking router, so those switches seem Good Enough.
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The original doodles show a severely over-complexicated solution desperately searching for an actual problem:
MPCNC Tool Length Probe – doodles
Putting a large flat pan at the end of a relatively long lever arm, with the pivot arranged to put the pan level at the switch actuation point, made sense at the time. Give the relatively small tools I expect to use, directly ramming them into the switch lever should work just as well.
Putting all that complexity in harm’s way seemed like a Bad Idea when I sat down and looked at it in cold blood.
A friend recommended a Finger Wrench and it looks useful, indeed:
Finger Wrench
That’s a 10-32 socket head cap screw, on the large end of the screws I normally use.
The orange PETG required a bit of smoothing around the overhangs, but should work well enough. The dark tinge near the bottom comes from the black filament I used for the MPCNC’s Z Axis sensor and won’t affect its operation in the least.
Done with one perimeter thread and a 3 mm brim to glue down the bottom:
After fixing the yellow ink tube, the Epson R380 printer occasionally gave off a horrible clunk as the tubes slapped around inside the frame. This routing seems much quieter and, as you can see from the marks on the tubes, leaves much less free to flop around:
Epson R380 Printer – CISS tube routing
I cut a small collar (to the left of the white block with the red cable tie) to guide the tubing up over the edge of the ink cartridge holder, with a ramp from the upper edge and raised edges to hold the tubes in place, from a block of black closed-cell foam. It seems perfectly happy to do its job without anything other than the tubes holding it in place atop the cartridges.
There’s also a block of foam filling a gap under the printer’s top frame member (along the far left edge of the picture) to cushion the tubes as they whack against the edge.
So far, so good.
I’ve dumped a few more tanks of waste ink down the drain. When this printer eventually gives up, I’ll get a color laser and move on.