The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Machine Shop

Mechanical widgetry

Halogen Desk Lamp Conversion

As part of converting the halogen desk lamp to LEDs, I replaced the hulking iron transformer with a flatter counterweight:

Halogen Desk Lamp – 12 V 20 W transformer

Under normal circumstances, you’d use something like steel or lead sheets, but Tiny Bandsaw™ can’t cut any appreciable thickness of steel and I gave away my entire lead stockpile, so I sawed disks from a pile of non-stick pancake griddles and drilled suitable mounting holes:

Parallel clamps in action

Another disk (from a formal aluminum sheet!) goes into the lamp head, with a trio of 3W COB LEDs epoxied in place:

Ex-Halogen Desk Lamp – 3x3W COB LED assembly

The other side of the disk sports a heatsink harvested from a PC, also epoxied in place:

Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – heatsink fitting

Realizing the head required only a little filing to accommodate the heatsink sealed both their fates.

A test firing showed the heatsink needed more airflow, which didn’t come as much of a surprise, so I milled slots in the lamp head:

Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – vent slot milling

Deburring the holes, blackening the sides with a Sharpie, and tucking a bit of black window screen behind the opening made the vents look entirely professional.

The small dome in the base originally cleared the transformer and now holds the entire 10 W LED driver, along with all the wiring, atop the counterweight sheets:

Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – base wiring

A cork pad covers the base for a bit of non-skid action:

Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – cork pad

I couldn’t convince myself filling in those sectors would improve anything, so I didn’t.

And then It Just Worked:

Ex-halogen Desk Lamp – in use

All without a trace of solid modeling or G-Code …

2018-12-07
JYE Tech DSO150 Oscilloscope: Battery Power
With the DSO150 scope running, I printed Geoff’s DSO150 case + battery holder from Thingiverse, added a few bits & pieces from the heap, and came up with a completely portable scope:

DSO150 battery hack – first light

The only scope mod consists of embedding a JST-ish connector in the back panel:

DSO150 battery hack – rear panel connector

Then soldering it to the battery pads and applying generous hot-melt glue blobs:

DSO150 battery hack – PCB power

Add a scrap 18650 Li-Ion cell, a regulated boost converter, and a switch:

DSO150 battery hack – interior

The switch is directly below the DSO150 BNC connector to get a little protection for its handle, which would otherwise stick out in harm’s way. This being an afterthought, I drilled the switch hole, rather than modify the solid model.

Some testing with a bench supply showed that the DSO150 will not operate correctly from the voltages produced by a pair of lithium cells, despite what you’d think from looking at the case. Below 8 V, the internally generated negative supply becomes larger than the positive supply, so the 0 V point isn’t properly centered and the scope loses headroom for large signals; monitoring the internal 3.3 V test signal makes the problem painfully obvious.

More color commentary from my summary email:
- Combining a case from Thingiverse with a Li-Ion cell and a regulated boost converter produces a portable scope.
- The PCB has provision for battery input, so I drilled / filed a square hole for a teeny JST-ish connector on the back panel, secured it with a blob of hot melt glue, and globbed the wires onto the PCB battery pads.
- The boost converter draws about 400 mA from the cell, so a 2500-ish mA·h cell should last Long Enough™. This is a scrap cell from the recycle box and gave out after maybe four hours.
- It idles at 8 mA, so I drilled a hole in the back of the case for a toggle switch disconnecting the battery; you’d want the hole in the solid model. Perhaps a better converter would have lower idle current; you’d never be able to tell from the eBay descriptions.
- Aaaaand it switches around 200 kHz under load, just barely beyond the scope bandwidth. It doesn’t add much noise to the signal, at least with a 50 Ω terminator jammed in the BNC, but the square-wave “cal” output looks awful at 50 mV/div; a real scope shows even more noise. I assume the noise comes directly from the logic supply; with luck, the DSO150’s analog circuitry has Good Enough™ filtering.
- Which might not matter for logic-level and moderate analog signals, of course, which is the whole point of the DSO150.
- Conspicuous by their absence: a Li-Ion cell protection PCB and any way to recharge the poor thing …
I’ve occasionally wanted a portable scope and now I have one!
2018-12-05
JYE Tech DSO150 Oscilloscope: Build Notes
I did a quick build of a JYE Tech DSO150 oscilloscope to see how it’d work in a proposed Squidwrench advanced soldering class / kit build session.

The main board requires adding only a few switches and headers, then removing a 0 Ω jumper resistor:

DSO150 – main board – bottom

The analog board requires a handful of 1/8 W resistors, various capacitors, switches, and the BNC connector:

DSO150 – main board – front

Some (lightly edited) color commentary from my summary email:
- Just finished assembling the kit, which required two hours; I’m admittedly fussy. The one joint I missed on the input coupling switch required a complete disassembly, but all the rest worked fine.
- The UI is much better than the DSO138.
- Soldering the BNC connector requires lots of heat. My ordinary Hakko iron had inadequate grunt, so I deployed the hulking Radio Shack 150 W gun and did the job in seconds.
- The resistors require a meter to measure them during installation, because they’re 1% 1/8 W jobbies with many teeny color strips in Chinese tints you’ve never seen before. I could not sort them visually, even with a lighted headband magnifier, and I know what I’m looking for.
- The caps are marked, but using a meter builds confidence.
- And, yes, the kit had all the right parts and they all worked. The instructions call for powering up the main board before starting assembly, then again after removing a 0 Ω jumper resistor, but that’s the extent of the “testing” required.
- They recommend a flush cutter and I’d say it’s pretty much required. An ordinary diagonal cutter won’t get close enough to the PCB.
- I needed an angle-tip tweezer to lay the PCB screws in place.
- Don’t install the knob until the very last step and maybe wait until you’ve verified all the functions. You have been warned.
- The minimum power supply voltage really is 8.0 V, not the 7.4 V from a not-quite-fully-charged pair of lithium cells. A 9 V alkaline battery will last a few minutes. A noisy boost converter / crappy 9 V wall wart translates directly into noise on the display, particularly on the internal calibration signal.
- The “0.1 V” calibration signal turned out to be 150 mV, as measured on a real scope, at 1 kHz. The 3.3 V signal is closer to reality. Both are noisy from a noisy supply.
- All in all, it’s a pretty good scope for thirty bucks!
- Newbies will find it a challenging three hour build, for sure.
The next step involves adding a case and battery power:

DSO150 battery hack – first light
2018-12-04

Sony NP-BX1 Battery Holder: SMT Pogo Pin Contacts

The original camera battery test fixtures used contact pins conjured from hulking gold-plated connector pins and coil springs:

Canon NB-6L holder - contact pin detail — Canon NB-6L holder – contact pin detail

The Sony HDR-AS30V camera chewed up and spat out a handful of batteries, all tested in the NP-BX1 test fixture:

NP-BX1 Holder - show layout — NP-BX1 Holder – show layout

Nowadays, SMT pogo pins produce a much more compact holder, so I figured I could put all those batteries to good use:

NP-BX1 Holder - SMT pogo pins — NP-BX1 Holder – SMT pogo pins

That’s the long-suffering astable multivibrator, still soldered to its CR123A holder.

Obviously, the battery holder should grow ears to anchor the 14 AWG copper posts and would look better in black PETG:

NP-BX1 Battery Holder - 1.5mm pins - solid model — NP-BX1 Battery Holder – 1.5mm pins – solid model

The battery lead wires get soldered to the ends of the pogo pins and are recessed into the slot in the end of the fixture. I used clear epoxy to anchor everything in place.

Fits perfectly and works fine!

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Holder for Sony NP-BX1 Li-Ion battery
	// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU January 2013
	// 2018-11-15 Adapted for wire leads from 1.5 mm test pins, added upright wire bases

	// Layout options

	Layout = "Show"; // Show Build Fit Case Lid Pins

	//- Extrusion parameters – must match reality!
	// Print with +2 shells and 3 solid layers

	ThreadThick = 0.25;
	ThreadWidth = 0.35;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly

	inch = 25.4;

	BuildOffset = 3.0; // clearance for build layout

	Gap = 2.0; // separation for Fit parts

	//- Battery dimensions – rationalized from several samples
	// Coordinate origin at battery contact face with key openings below contacts

	Battery = [43.0,30.0,9.5]; // X = length, Y = width, Z = thickness

	Contacts = [[-0.75,6.0,6.2],[-0.75,16.0,6.2]]; // relative to battery edge, front, and bottom

	KeyBlocks = [[1.75,3.70,2.90],[1.75,3.60,2.90]]; // recesses in battery face set X position

	//- Pin dimensions

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	PinShank = [1.5,2.0,6.5]; // shank, flange, compressed length
	PinFlange = [1.5,2.0,0.5]; // flange, length included in PinShank
	PinTip = [0.9,0.9,2.5]; // extended spring-loaded tip

	PinChannel = PinFlange[LENGTH] + 0.5; // cut behind flange for solder overflow
	PinRecess = 3.0; // recess behind pin flange end for epoxy fill


	echo(str("Contact tip dia: ",PinTip[OD]));
	echo(str(" .. shank dia: ",PinShank[ID]));

	OverTravel = 0.5; // space beyond battery face at X origin

	//- Holder dimensions

	GuideRadius = ThreadWidth; // friction fit ridges
	GuideOffset = 7; // from compartment corners
	WallThick = 4*ThreadWidth; // holder sidewalls

	BaseThick = 6*ThreadThick; // bottom of holder to bottom of battery
	TopThick = 6*ThreadThick; // top of battery to top of holder

	ThumbRadius = 10.0; // thumb opening at end of battery

	CornerRadius = 3*ThreadThick; // nice corner rounding

	CaseSize = [Battery.x + PinShank[LENGTH] + OverTravel + PinRecess + GuideRadius + WallThick,
	Battery.y + 2WallThick + 2GuideRadius,
	Battery.z + BaseThick + TopThick];

	CaseOffset = [-(PinShank[LENGTH] + OverTravel + PinRecess),-(WallThick + GuideRadius),0]; // position around battery

	LidOverhang = 2.0; // over top of battery for retention

	LidSize = [-CaseOffset.x + LidOverhang,CaseSize.y,TopThick];

	LidOffset = [0.0,CaseOffset.y,0];

	//———————-
	// Useful routines

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes

	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);

	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);

	cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
	}

	//——————-
	//– Guides for tighter friction fit

	module Guides() {
	translate([GuideOffset,-GuideRadius,0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);
	translate([GuideOffset,(Battery.y + GuideRadius),0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);
	translate([(Battery.x – GuideOffset),-GuideRadius,0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);
	translate([(Battery.x – GuideOffset),(Battery.y + GuideRadius),0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);
	translate([(Battery.x + GuideRadius),GuideOffset/2,0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);
	translate([(Battery.x + GuideRadius),(Battery.y – GuideOffset/2),0])
	PolyCyl(2*GuideRadius,(Battery.z – Protrusion),4);

	}

	//– Contact pins
	// Rotated to put them in their natural oriention
	// Aligned to put tip base / end of shank at Overtravel limit

	module PinShape() {

	translate([-(PinShank[LENGTH] + OverTravel),0,0])
	rotate([0,90,0])
	rotate(180/6)
	union() {
	PolyCyl(PinTip[OD],PinShank[LENGTH] + PinTip[LENGTH],6);
	PolyCyl(PinShank[ID],PinShank[LENGTH] + Protrusion,6); // slight extension for clean cuts
	PolyCyl(PinFlange[OD],PinFlange[LENGTH],6);
	}
	}

	// Position pins to put end of shank at battery face
	// Add wire exit channel between pins
	// Does not include recess access

	module PinAssembly() {

	union() {
	for (p = Contacts)
	translate([0,p.y,p.z])
	PinShape();
	translate([-(PinShank[LENGTH] + OverTravel) + PinChannel/2,
	(Contacts[1].y + Contacts[0].y)/2,
	Contacts[0].z])
	cube([PinChannel,(Contacts[1].y – Contacts[0].y),PinFlange[OD]],center=true);
	}
	}

	//– Case with origin at battery corner

	module Case() {

	difference() {

	union() {

	difference() {

	translate([(CaseSize.x/2 + CaseOffset.x), // basic case shape
	(CaseSize.y/2 + CaseOffset.y),
	(CaseSize.z/2 – BaseThick)])
	hull()
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1], k=[-1,1])
	translate([i*(CaseSize.x/2 – CornerRadius),
	j*(CaseSize.y/2 – CornerRadius),
	k*(CaseSize.z/2 – CornerRadius)])
	sphere(r=CornerRadius,$fn=8);

	translate([-OverTravel,-GuideRadius,0])
	cube([(Battery.x + GuideRadius + OverTravel),
	(Battery.y + 2*GuideRadius),
	(Battery.z + Protrusion)]); // battery space
	}

	Guides(); // improve friction fit

	translate([-OverTravel,-GuideRadius,0]) // battery keying blocks
	cube(KeyBlocks[0] + [OverTravel,GuideRadius,0],center=false);
	translate([-OverTravel,(Battery.y – KeyBlocks[1].y),0])
	cube(KeyBlocks[1] + [OverTravel,GuideRadius,0],center=false);

	}

	translate([(-OverTravel), // battery top access
	(CaseOffset.y – Protrusion),
	Battery.z])
	cube([CaseSize.x,(CaseSize.y + 2*Protrusion),(TopThick + Protrusion)]);

	translate([(CaseOffset.x – Protrusion), // battery insertion allowance
	(CaseOffset.y – Protrusion),
	Battery.z])
	cube([(CaseSize.x + 2Protrusion),(CaseSize.y + 2Protrusion),(TopThick + Protrusion)]);


	translate([(Battery.x – Protrusion), // remove thumb notch
	(CaseSize.y/2 + CaseOffset.y),
	(ThumbRadius)])
	rotate([90,0,0])
	rotate([0,90,0])
	cylinder(r=ThumbRadius,
	h=(WallThick + GuideRadius + 2*Protrusion),
	$fn=22);

	PinAssembly();

	translate([CaseOffset.x + PinRecess/2 + Protrusion/2,(Contacts[1].y + Contacts[0].y)/2,Contacts[0].z])
	cube([PinRecess + Protrusion,
	(Contacts[1].y – Contacts[0].y + PinFlange[OD]),
	2*PinFlange[OD]],center=true);

	}

	}

	// Lid position offset to match case

	module Lid() {

	translate([-LidSize.x/2 + LidOffset.x + LidOverhang,LidSize.y/2 + LidOffset.y,0])
	difference() {
	hull()
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1], k=[-1,1])
	translate([i*(LidSize.x/2 – CornerRadius),
	j*(LidSize.y/2 – CornerRadius),
	k*(LidSize.z – CornerRadius)]) // double thickness for flat bottom
	sphere(r=CornerRadius,$fn=8);

	translate([0,0,-LidSize.z/2])
	cube([(LidSize.x + 2Protrusion),(LidSize.y + 2Protrusion),LidSize.z],center=true);

	cube([LidSize.x/4,0.75LidSize.y,4ThreadThick],center=true); // epoxy recess
	}

	}


	//——————-
	// Build it!

	if (Layout == "Case")
	Case();

	if (Layout == "Lid")
	Lid();

	if (Layout == "Pins") {
	color("Silver",0.5)
	PinShape();
	PinAssembly();
	}

	if (Layout == "Show") { // reveal pin assembly
	difference() {
	Case();

	translate([(CaseOffset.x – Protrusion),
	Contacts[1].y,
	Contacts[1].z])
	cube([(-CaseOffset.x + Protrusion),
	CaseSize.y,
	(CaseSize.z – Contacts[0].z + Protrusion)]);

	translate([(CaseOffset.x – Protrusion),
	(CaseOffset.y – Protrusion),
	0])
	cube([(-CaseOffset.x + Protrusion),
	Contacts[0].y + Protrusion – CaseOffset.y,
	CaseSize.z]);
	}

	color("Silver",0.15)
	PinAssembly();

	translate([0,0,Battery.z + Gap])
	Lid();
	}

	if (Layout == "Build") {
	translate([-(CaseSize.x/2 + CaseOffset.x),-(CaseOffset.y – BuildOffset),BaseThick])
	Case();
	translate([CaseSize.y/2,(CaseOffset.x/2 – BuildOffset),0])
	rotate([0,0,90])
	Lid();
	}

	if (Layout == "Fit") {
	Case();
	translate([0,0,(Battery.z + Gap)])
	Lid();
	color("Silver",0.25)
	PinAssembly();

	}

view raw NP-BX1 Battery Holder – 1.5mm pins.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2018-11-29

Makergear M2 V4 Nozzle: More Silicone!

A Makergear forum discussion on PETG hair and the prevention thereof prompted me to take a look at the silicone coating I’d applied to the nozzle:

M2 – nozzle silicone – applied

That was ten months ago. This is now:

M2 Nozzle – worn silicone coat

The camera sees the nozzle in a mirror laid flat on the platform, making the image less crisp than a direct view.

So the silicone seems a bit worn around the tip, has acquired a few firmly adhered globs, and definitely isn’t as shiny.

Rather than (try to) peel it off and reapply a new coating, I picked off the globs, cleaned around the nozzle, and slobbered a thin layer atop the existing silicone:

M2 Nozzle – more silicone

Extruding a few millimeters of filament pushed the film off the nozzle opening and it now works as well as it ever did.

2018-11-28
Electrolux Vacuum Cleaner: Cord Protection

The ancient (Came With The House™) Electrolux canister vacuum cleaner long ago lost the plastic bushing around the opening passing its retractable cord, which I’d long sworn to replace. A recent trip around the Basement Laboratory paused near the recently relocated Box o’ Wire Loom & Braid, whereupon I snipped off a few inches of split loom and tucked it in place:

Electrolux Vacuum – cushioned cord cutout

Looks and works better than before, anyhow.

The blue flap dangling off the back should latch over the exhaust port, but failed long ago when the latch tab eroded. I attempted a repair, which never worked quite right, and won’t get around to attempting another for quite a while.

2018-11-27
Badger Propel Air Fittings: DIY Rubber Washers

Unlike ordinary bike tubes, Michelin ProTek tubes have a square-ish cross section:

Michelin Protek Max Tube – carton

So, having a defunct Michelin ProTek tube in hand, I cut, cleaned, and dissected a few inches, then punched out a set of (flat!) washers for the Badger Propel air fittings:

Badger 260 Propel fitting seals – inner-tube version

As with the cork version, they fit fine:

Badger Propel fitting – DIY rubber seal

The picture is slightly fuzzy, because zooming a Pixel photo doesn’t magically create any new mmmm pixels.

I tested the washer with 45 psi air (the recommended maximum) and it holds the pressure fine. Better than a fouled ProTek valve, anyway.

Flushed with success, I preemptively replaced both OEM cork washers, an action which will surely come back to haunt me.

2018-11-25