The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

Craptastic Kitchen Scale: Button Sensor Tweaks

The four control “buttons” on the Smart Heart kitchen scale are copper-foil tabs that sense the presence of your finger though about 5 mm of white plastic and glass:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – top view

The main failure mode seemed to come from the microcontroller locking up and refusing to recognize any of the buttons, most annoyingly the On/Tare button, while continuing to measure whatever weight was on the scale with whatever zero point it chose. Recovery involved waiting until the thing timed out and shut itself off.

The two buttons on the left select Kilocalories for any of the various foods arrayed around the display. Depending on how it jammed during startup, it might display the Kilocalorie value for, say, sugar, while ignoring all button presses. As the manual does not mention any way to return to weights after activating the Kilocalorie function, other than turning it off, it’s not clear recognizing the other buttons would be much help.

Because we have no use for those functions, I unsoldered the wires to those sensor pads and it no longer jams in that mode:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – PCB detail

The alert reader will note the PCB legend says I have unsoldered the ON/OFF and UNIT wires. If one believes the silkscreen, the PCB dates back to 2015, so it now carries a reprogrammed microcontroller with functions that no longer match the silkscreen.

The overall soldering quality resembles mine on a bad day.

With those out of the way, the scale still jammed and refused to recognize the remaining two buttons. I wondered if it was somehow sensing ghost fingers over both sensors and waiting for one to vanish, so I added a shield ring around the power tab:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – shielded sensor

That reduced the sensitivity of both sensors to the point where they pretty much didn’t work, without reducing the number of jams.

So I tried increasing the sensitivity of the power tab by replacing it with a larger copper foil sheet:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – larger sensor

That definitely got its attention, as it will now respond to a finger hovering half an inch over the glass, as well as a finger on the bottom of the case: it can now turn on and jam while I pick it up.

More tinkering is in order, but it’s at least less awful in its current state than it was originally, so I can fix a few other things of higher priority.

2023-03-21
Craptastic Kitchen Scale Tinkering
The health plan I use pays $100 toward the year’s over-the-counter healthcare stuff, although with a caveat: you can only buy the stuff from a specific website. As you might expect, what’s available consists of no-name generic products with absurdly high sticker prices and, just to rub it in, the hundred bucks gets paid in quarterly use-it-or-lose it installments.

Seeing as how it was free, I got a kitchen scale:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – top view

It has two catastrophically bad design features:
- Terrible battery life
- Overly sensitive controls
It runs from a pair of series-connected CR2032 non-rechargeable lithium coin cells. Which would be fine, except that the blue LED backlight stays on for 30 seconds after each button touch and draws about 10 mA.

The battery lifetime is best measured in days.

The four control “buttons” on either side of the backlit LCD are touchless sensors using copper foil stickers:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – NP-BX1 retrofit

The alert reader will spot those the empty CR2032 coin cell contacts over on the left and a pair of NP-BX1 batteries in the middle.

I figured there was no need to keep feeding it coin cells while I played with it, so I conjured a holder from the vasty digital deep. Normally, that would be an OpenSCAD solid model suited for 3D printing, but in this case the lithium cells exactly filled the space between the PCB and the bottom of the case, so it became a 2D design neatly suited for laser cuttery.

Kitchen scale – NP-BX1 holder – LB layout

I planned to stick the orange cutout (in 1.5 mm acrylic) as a stabilizer around the pogo pins making contact with the cell terminals from the red cutout (in 3 mm acrylic), but just melting the pins into the acrylic seemed sufficient for the purpose. Strips of adhesive sheet saved from the margins of previous projects affix the holder (not the cells!) to the scale’s upper glass layer.

As far as I can tell, the scale is perfectly happy running on 7.4 V, rather than 6.0 V. The PCB has two terminals marked +3V and +6V, so it probably depends on which LEDs they use for backlights:

SmartHeart 19-106 Kitchen Scale – PCB detail

The alert reader will notice a peculiarity concerning the sensor pad connections along the top edge.

More on that second bad design decision later …
2023-03-20
Innovative Bumper Repair

Having seen bandage stickers on wounded cars, my first glance suggested a Frankenstein surgical version:

Zip-tied car bumper

They don’t make bumpers like they used to!

Which is, overall, a good thing, but crushable plastic definitely raises the repair cost for a glancing impact.

Fortunately, the scuff didn’t reach the headlight.

2023-03-17
Medium Ricotta Lid Box: QR Code vs. Chipboard
Another box from the festi.info box configurator to collect more lids in a kitchen drawer:

Medium Ricotta Lids box

This was really a thinly veiled excuse for a deeper look at the QR code generator encoding the myriad parameters required to create the box and see what happens when you try to burn such a complex thing into chipboard.

Spoiler: chipboard has very low contrast and really does not work well with high-density QR codes.

Although the festi.info box generator can produce QR codes, I used qrencode (available in your Linux distro) on the command line to generate QR code image files with specific settings:
```
qrencode --level=M --size=6 --dpi=254 --output='Ricotta Lids 2 lb - chipboard.png' 'http://festi.info/boxes.py/ABox?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=2.0&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=2.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=3.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&x=200.0&y=120.0&h=60.0&outside=0&bottom_edge=h&thickness=1.4&format=lbrn2&tabs=0.0&qr_code=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=0&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04&language=en&render=0'
```
The key parameters:
- --level → error correction level
- --size → size of the smallest square (“module”) in pixels
- --dpi → DPI of the output image file
The default file type is PNG. The unusual 254 DPI makes each pixel exactly 0.1 mm wide and a peculiar 169.33 DPI = 0.15 mm came in handy for the first pattern.

The final parameter is the character string to encode, which you should definitely quote to prevent the shell from wrecking things while trying to help you.

A pattern with 4×4 pixel modules didn’t scan at all:

Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.15mm 4×4 – overview

A closer look shows the modules have ragged edges due to laser timing variations during the engraving scans and gaps between successive scans because the spot size is less than the 0.15 mm scan interval:

Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.15mm 4×4 – detail

Increasing the module to 6×6 pixels at a 0.1 mm scan interval :

Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.10mm 6×6 – overview

A closer look shows the larger module reduces the relative size of the timing errors, while the decreased line spacing tidies up the blocks:

Chipboard QR code – 15pct 0.10mm 6×6 – detail

Reducing the power from 15% to 10% reduced the contrast to the point of illegibility:

Chipboard QR code – 10pct 0.10mm 6×6 – overview

A closer look shows the engraving barely punches through the surface and has somewhat more ragged edges due to the tube’s pulsating startu p current at very low power:

Chipboard QR code – 10pct 0.10mm 6×6 – detail

I also tried 5×5 modules with similar results.

The laser spot size sets the engraving scan interval, which then determines the DPI value for the QR code image. With all that matched up, you can send the images directly to the laser in Passthrough mode, without having LightBurn resample the pixels and change the module’s shape.

Looked at from a different angle: given the laser spot size and the module size, the QR code image size is not under your control.

From another angle: given a QR code image size in, say, millimeters, and the engraving scan interval, the module size is not under your control.

All this is moot if you print QR codes on a high-resolution / high-contrast printer. It’s just the gritty nature of laser cuttery that limits what you can accomplish.

And, of course, using a material less awful than chipboard will definitely improve the results.

If you want a similar box of your own, here ya go:

Medium Ricotta Lids – chipboard QR code – default

The URL is too ugly to print, but you can copy it from this link.
2023-03-16
Refresh Tears Eye Lube Storage Boxes

A recent Squidwrench meeting provided the opportunity to make a couple of racks for an assortment of Refresh Tears / Liquigel bottles:

Refresh eye lube – storage cases

I used chipboard to find out if the cross plates would stiffen the floppy 1.1 mm sheets enough for this light duty. Indeed, the overall structure becomes a nice rigid box, even though the feet and corners can’t withstand much abuse.

The finger joints use the default settings, which produce a lot of fingers along the edges. This turns out to be a Good Thing, as it gave the yellow wood glue plenty of opportunities to bond the sheets together.

Combining the default 5° slope with nine bottles along each level wastes a tremendous amount of vertical space. The adjacent racks hold three much larger cans per level, so roughly the same space doesn’t look like much. In retrospect, a 3° slope should work for smaller bottles.

And, yes, the squash on the lower shelf store nicely and become yummy meals all winter long.

The overstuffed URL generating the patterns:

http://festi.info/boxes.py/CanStorage?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=0.0&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=1.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=2.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&Stackable_angle=60&Stackable_bottom_stabilizers=0.0&Stackable_height=2.0&Stackable_holedistance=1.0&Stackable_width=4.0&fillHoles_bar_length=50&fillHoles_fill_pattern=no+fill&fillHoles_hole_max_radius=3.0&fillHoles_hole_min_radius=0.5&fillHoles_hole_style=round&fillHoles_max_random=1000&fillHoles_space_between_holes=4.0&fillHoles_space_to_border=4.0&top_edge=%C5%A0&bottom_edge=%C5%A1&canDiameter=30&canHeight=75&canNum=18&chuteAngle=5.0&thickness=1.15&format=lbrn2&tabs=0.0&qr_code=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=0&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04&language=en

And the eyeburning QR code:

Refresh Eye Lube – chipboard QR code

2023-03-02
Bobbin Storage Trays

Long ago, I gave Mary a box of 100 empty bobbins for her Kenmore 158 sewing machine, with the intent she would never again have to unwind a bobbin to put new thread on it. This worked so well I did the same thing for her Juki, with the result she needed somewhere to store all those filled bobbins.

Her work table has a shallow drawer, so we tried this out:

Bobbin Storage Case – installed

They’re a matched set cut from 1.5 mm TroCraft Eco:

Bobbin Storage Case – cutting overview

Watching all those little rectangles fall out just never gets old:

Bobbin Storage Case – cutting detail

I ran off a test tray in ordinary chipboard that works just as well, but lacks the pleasant appearance and feel of the TroCraft. Clear 1.5 mm acrylic would probably work, at the cost of requring a much neater glue job where the dividers meet the walls.

The spacing is a bit tight to pluck a bobbin from its slot between two others, but now she has enough space to arrange them as needed, with empty spaces around the most-used colors. I offered to carpet the drawer with bobbin trays, but she suggested waiting until these fill up.

The well-stuffed URL specifying the tray:

http://festi.info/boxes.py/TypeTray?FingerJoint_angle=90.0&FingerJoint_style=rectangular&FingerJoint_surroundingspaces=0.5&FingerJoint_bottom_lip=0.0&FingerJoint_edge_width=1.0&FingerJoint_extra_length=0.0&FingerJoint_finger=2.0&FingerJoint_play=0.0&FingerJoint_space=2.0&FingerJoint_width=1.0&Stackable_angle=60&Stackable_bottom_stabilizers=0.0&Stackable_height=2.0&Stackable_holedistance=2.0&Stackable_width=4.0&Hinge_grip_percentage=0&Hinge_outset=0&Hinge_pinwidth=0.5&Hinge_style=outset&Hinge_axle=2.0&Hinge_grip_length=0&Hinge_hingestrength=1&CabinetHinge_bore=3.2&CabinetHinge_eyes_per_hinge=5&CabinetHinge_hinges=2&CabinetHinge_style=inside&CabinetHinge_eye=1.5&CabinetHinge_play=0.05&CabinetHinge_spacing=2.0&Lid_angle=90.0&Lid_hole_width=0&Lid_second_pin=0&Lid_second_pin=1&Lid_spring=both&Lid_style=rectangular&Lid_surroundingspaces=2.0&Lid_bottom_lip=0.0&Lid_edge_width=1.0&Lid_extra_length=0.0&Lid_finger=3.0&Lid_play=0.05&Lid_space=2.0&Lid_width=1.0&Click_angle=5.0&Click_bottom_radius=0.1&Click_depth=3.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_height=50.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_r_hole=2.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_radius=30.0&RoundedTriangleEdge_outset=1.0&Mounting_d_head=6.5&Mounting_d_shaft=3.0&Mounting_margin=0.125&Mounting_num=2&Mounting_side=back&Mounting_style=straight+edge%2C+within&HandleEdge_height=20.0&HandleEdge_hole_height=75.0&HandleEdge_hole_width=40%3A40&HandleEdge_on_sides=0&HandleEdge_on_sides=1&HandleEdge_radius=10.0&HandleEdge_outset=1.0&sx=21*7&sy=12*7&h=20.0&hi=10.0&outside=0&bottom_edge=s&top_edge=S&back_height=0.0&radius=0.0&gripheight=30&gripwidth=00&handle=0&thickness=1.65&format=lbrn2&tabs=0&debug=0&labels=0&reference=00&inner_corners=corner&burn=0.04

Which can now be specified as the biggest QR code I’ve ever seen:

Bobbin Tray – TroCraft Eco QR code

That makes my eyes hurt …

2023-03-01
Laser-Cut Envelope Opener

As practice in using the laser to engrave a figure to a known depth, this seemed appropriate:

Envelope Opener – original

The black envelope opener on the right came in a long-ago surplus deal and worked really well, which I cannot say for the retail replacements I got a few years back.

The tan envelope opener on the left is an obvious case of IP theft, copying the size and shape using a scanned image:

Classic opener – knife blades – scan

The two blades seemed like good candidates, with the lower one winning the contest:

Kobalt 78010 Mini Utility Knife Blade mask

Although the pack of “mini utility knife blades” sports a Lowe’s Kobalt part number, they no longer carry that item. You can find plenty of identical blades elsewhere, so they’re not a rare collectible and I have plenty of backup.

Put the outline of the opener on a cut layer, put the blade on an engraving layer, orient appropriately, and make a mirror-image duplicate:

Envelope Opener – LB Layout

The original opener is a touch over 3 mm thick, so the settings engrave 0.25 mm into the surface to make a blade pocket, then cut the shapes from 1.5 mm TroCraft Eco:

Envelope Opener – cutting

After all the cutting was done, it looks about as you’d expect:

Envelope Opener – interior layout

Slather with yellow PVA wood glue and apply too many clamps:

Envelope Opener – clamping

Next time around, I’ll round off the edges before assembly, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning:

Envelope Opener – detail

The TroCraft sheet engraves so cleanly that, were I to go into mass production, I’d set up a fixture for grayscale engraving shaping the perimeters.

Obviously, this makes no economic sense, but it does produce a considerable amount of satisfaction, which is pretty much all that matters for such things.

2023-02-27