Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
After rebuilding the front end of the Samsung vacuum’s floor brush, I’d hoped that was the end of it; other than replacing the brush strips every now and again, it’s been cooperative. Recently, however, one of the wheels popped off, which revealed the minimal mechanism holding them in place:
Samsung Quiet Jet – floor brush wheel interior
Those four delicate latches have worn themselves and the hub to the point where they ride over the edge at the slightest provocation. I pulled both wheels off and packed three turns of insulated wire (one turn is visible in the photo, as it was an iterative process) around the outside of the clips, with the intent of restoring enough force to hold the wheels in place until we exhaust the lifetime supply of bags I bought for the thing…
Although the current OpenSCAD could produce a solid model with the screw thread’s dedendum, I’d never actually printed one of them:
Broom Handle Screw – full thread – solid model
I need some fondlestuff illustrating how to handle overhangs, so I ran one standing vertically, which (pretty much as I expected) didn’t work well at all:
Broom Handle Screw – dedendum – vertical
The trick is to split the model down the middle:
Broom Handle Screw – horizontal top
And put holes in each half for alignment pins:
Broom Handle Screw – horizontal bottom
Then you can print it lying down:
Broom Handle Screw – horizontal – as-printed top
The internal overhang would probably call for some support material, particularly in the square recess at the end, but in this case it’s a lesson:
Glue some filament snippets into the holes, snap it together, and it looks just fine over there on the right:
Broom Handle Screw – orientation comparison
Doesn’t matter how many I print, it still doesn’t make any economic sense as a broom repair…
The OpenSCAD source code now has a Layout variable to control the orientation and, not as shown in the model, the alignment pins have glue gutters in the first layer:
// Broom Handle Screw End Plug
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
Layout = "Horizontal"; // Vertical Horizontal Pin
UseDedendum = true; // true to create full thread form
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
//----------------------
// Dimensions
PostOD = 22.3; // post inside metal handle
PostLength = 25.0;
FlangeOD = 24.0; // stop flange
FlangeLength = 3.0;
PitchDia = 15.5; // thread center diameter
ScrewLength = 20.0;
ThreadFormOD = 2.5; // diameter of thread form
ThreadPitch = 5.0;
NumSegments = 32; // .. number of cylinder approximations per turn
BoltOD = 7.0; // clears 1/4-20 bolt
BoltSquare = 6.5; // across flats
BoltHeadThick = 3.0;
RecessDia = 6.0; // recesss to secure post in handle
OALength = PostLength + FlangeLength + ScrewLength;
SplitOC = 1.25*FlangeOD; // separation in Horizontal layout
PinOD = 1.75; // alignment pin diameter = filament stub
PinLength = 7.0; // ... length
$fn=8*4; // default cylinder sides
echo("Pitch dia: ",PitchDia);
echo("Root dia: ",PitchDia - ThreadFormOD);
echo("Crest dia: ",PitchDia + ThreadFormOD);
Pi = 3.14159265358979;
//----------------------
// Useful routines
// Wrap cylindrical thread segments around larger plug cylinder
module CylinderThread(Pitch,Length,PitchDia,ThreadOD,PerTurn) {
CylFudge = 1.02; // force overlap
RotIncr = 1/PerTurn;
PitchRad = PitchDia/2;
Turns = Length/Pitch;
NumCyls = Turns*PerTurn;
ZStep = Pitch / PerTurn;
HelixAngle = atan(Pitch/(Pi*PitchDia));
CylLength = CylFudge * (Pi*(PitchDia + ThreadOD) / PerTurn) / cos(HelixAngle);
for (i = [0:NumCyls-1]) {
assign(Angle = 360*i/PerTurn)
translate([PitchRad*cos(Angle),PitchRad*sin(Angle),i*ZStep])
rotate([90+HelixAngle,0,Angle])
cylinder(r1=ThreadOD/2,
r2=ThreadOD/(2*CylFudge),
h=CylLength,
center=true,$fn=12);
}
}
// Build complete plug
module ScrewPlug() {
difference() {
union() {
cylinder(r=PostOD/2,h=PostLength);
cylinder(r=PitchDia/2,h=OALength);
translate([0,0,PostLength])
cylinder(r=FlangeOD/2,h=FlangeLength);
color("Orange")
translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength)])
CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,(ScrewLength - ThreadFormOD/2),PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
}
translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
PolyCyl(BoltOD,(OALength + 2*Protrusion),6);
translate([0,0,(OALength - BoltHeadThick)])
PolyCyl(BoltSquare,(BoltHeadThick + Protrusion),4);
if (UseDedendum)
translate([0,0,(PostLength + FlangeLength + ThreadFormOD/2 - ThreadPitch/(2*NumSegments))])
rotate(-90 - 360/(2*NumSegments))
CylinderThread(ThreadPitch,ScrewLength,PitchDia,ThreadFormOD,NumSegments);
for (i = [0:90:270]) {
rotate(45 + i) // 45 works better with Horizontal layout
translate([PostOD/2,0,PostLength/2])
sphere(r=RecessDia/2,$fn=8);
}
}
}
// Locating pin hole with glue recess
module LocatingPin() {
translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-------------------
// Build it...
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Vertical")
ScrewPlug();
if (Layout == "Pin")
LocatingPin();
if (Layout == "Horizontal")
for (i=[-1,1])
difference() {
translate([i*SplitOC/2,PostLength/2,0])
rotate([90,180*(i + 1)/2,0])
ScrewPlug();
translate([0,0,-FlangeOD/2])
cube([2*OALength,2*OALength,FlangeOD],center=true);
for (j=[-1,1], pin=[-1,1])
assign(PinX = i*SplitOC/2 + pin*(PostOD + BoltOD)/4,
PinY = j*PostLength/4) {
translate([PinX,PinY,0])
rotate(45)
LocatingPin();
echo("i j pin: ",i,j,pin);
echo("X Y: ",PinX,PinY);
}
}
The houseplants have migrated indoors after spending a summer charging up in the sun on the patio, which means it’s time to replace the silicone rubber feet on the bottom of the plant shelves. This year, I printed a set of feet to fit the hex-head adjustable feet:
Plant Stand Foot – installed
The pencil-stem plant on the left, for whatever it’s worth, is a perfectly healthy Rhipsalis that greatly enjoyed the summer sun.
The feet print upside-down to give the surface around the hex a smooth finish. I used Slic3r’s Hilbert Curve for pattern a bit more interesting than the usual parallel lines:
Plant Shelf Foot – as built
The Hilbert curve doesn’t fit neatly into a non-rectangular shape, but it’s close enough.
The solid model includes the support structure:
Plant Shelf Foot – solid model – bottom
Which pops out cleanly:
Plant Shelf Foot – support material detail
Yes, that’s a shred of red filament embedded on the left side. Cleanliness is next to impossible…
The fuzzy felt feet come from a 6 mm thick slab of the stuff:
Plant Shelf Foot – cutting felt plugs
The round socket wall leaves about 2 mm of felt showing at the bottom; it’s not very compressible and that should suffice to keep the plastic off the table.
The OpenSCAD source code:
// Feet for a wire-shelf plant stand
// Ed Nisley KE4ZNU October 2013
Layout = "Build"; // Show Build
Support = true;
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
// Print with 2 shells and 3 solid layers
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
//----------------------
// Dimensions
StandFootOD = 18.0; // hex across flats
StandFootDepth = 5.0; // ... socket depth
FeltPadOD = 25.0; // felt foot diameter
FeltPadDepth = 4.0; // ... depth
FootBaseThick = 6*ThreadThick; // between foot and pad
FootWall = 4*ThreadWidth; // around exterior
FootOD = 2*FootWall + max(StandFootOD,FeltPadOD);
echo(str("Foot OD: ",FootOD));
FootTall = StandFootDepth + FootBaseThick + FeltPadDepth;
echo(str(" ... height: "),FootTall);
NumSides = 8*4;
//----------------------
// Useful routines
module FootPad() {
difference() {
cylinder(r=FootOD/2,h=FootTall,$fn=NumSides);
translate([0,0,FeltPadDepth + FootBaseThick])
PolyCyl(StandFootOD,2*StandFootDepth,6);
translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
PolyCyl(FeltPadOD,(FeltPadDepth + Protrusion),NumSides);
}
}
// Locating pin hole with glue recess
module LocatingPin() {
translate([0,0,-ThreadThick])
PolyCyl((PinOD + 2*ThreadWidth),2*ThreadThick,4);
translate([0,0,-(PinLength/2 + ThreadThick)])
PolyCyl(PinOD,(PinLength + 2*ThreadThick),4);
}
module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
h=Height,
$fn=Sides);
}
module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
Range = floor(50 / Space);
for (x=[-Range:Range])
for (y=[-Range:Range])
translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
%cube(Size,center=true);
}
//-------------------
// Build it...
ShowPegGrid();
if (Layout == "Show")
FootPad();
if (Layout == "Build") {
translate([0,0,FootTall])
rotate([180,0,0])
FootPad();
if (Support)
color("Yellow")
for (Seg=[0:5]) {
rotate(30 + 360*Seg/6)
translate([0,0,(StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)/2])
cube([(StandFootOD - 3*ThreadWidth),
2*ThreadWidth,
(StandFootDepth - ThreadThick)],
center=true);
}
}
Nothing too challenging and, as nobody else ever sees this side of the lid, not very pretty:
Brita Pitcher – reinforced lid screws
I probably should have added a brass reinforcement strip around the cracked plastic mounts, but JB Weld epoxy should be strong enough for this job all by itself. Assuming, that is, it can maintain a grip on the plastic; I’m hoping the various fractures will lock it in place.
When I ordered this carton of paper, I specified “pick up at store” because I knew this would happen:
Ruptured paper carton
A carton weighs so much that everybody, myself included, grabs it by the straps and slings it around. Unlike them, I put it down gently, because it’s my paper… but now it’s too late.
Inside the carton, the impact shattered the paper wrapper on every one of the ten reams:
Split paper reams
In the last carton I bought (admittedly, quite some time ago), Staples used plastic wrappers that gave each ream a bit more protection against abuse and the elements, but that’s been cheapnified out of existence.
I also ordered a ream of fancy heavyweight paper that pushed the order over the “Free Shipping!” threshold; I missed the fact that they auto-checked “Free Delivery!” for the whole order. Of course, that ream shipped separately and it’s now delayed by a week or two…
I could take it back, but the paper from that bottom-corner ream seems to be no more than somewhat bent, so I’ll live with it.
The left temple mount of Mary’s five-year-old and staggeringly expensive titanium Silhouette glasses snapped. Here’s the intact right earpiece and the broken piece from the left temple (the lens is upside-down on the paper):
Silhouette frame – broken temple part
They’re just about ideal glasses, with nothing more than two lenses and three metal bits, but that means simple repairs don’t come easily. The Official Repair Price was about $120 to install a whole new earpiece, so, seeing as how she had these customized for computer work and wouldn’t be wearing them when anybody else was around, I got the job…
First off, mask the lenses with Parafilm to avoid scuffs:
Silhouette glasses – lens protection
Then cut out the broken part shown in the first picture. It’s attached to the lens with a U-shaped bit of transparent plastic that fits into the frame holes and captures its two peg legs; I used flush-cutting pliers to carve away the plastic bar on the inside of the lens.
The lens mount fragment is flat-out not reparable, but the broken end of the earpiece lies flush against the lens and is roughly circular. Even better, a 1/16 inch brass tube from the Little Box o’ Cutoffs fit the temple end perfectly: OD = 62 mils, ID = 35 mils.
The Little Box o’ Tiny Screws produced a pair of stainless steel screws (intended for the hinges in ordinary eyeglass temples) that also fit the holes in the lens and were precisely the right length, so the overall plan came together. The screws seem a bit over 1 mm diameter and I don’t have a nut for them, but epoxy is my co-pilot…
Line up and drill a pair of 47 mil clearance holes in that piece of 62 mil OD brass tubing, leaving barely 7 mil behind on each side:
Drilling brass tube
I may have to frame that picture…
Much to my astonishment, drilling those two holes worked on the first try. I’d chamfered the end with a #1 center drill while mulling over how all this would work out.
File off the screw heads to leave a thin plate:
Silhouette frame – temple mount parts
A dry fit shows how everything hangs together:
Silhouette frame – temple trial fit
The intact earpiece holds the lens at the proper angle on a flat surface, so as long as I can keep the repair parts in place on the lens, the temple angle will take care of itself.
I scuffed up the broken end of the earpiece to encourage a good epoxy bond, bent the edges of those flat plates around the tube, and cleaned everything with acetone. Tiny dabs of JB Weld epoxy hold the screws and the temple piece in the tube, with those little machinist’s squares encouraging the lenses to stay put:
Silhouette frame – mount curing
A day later, lay the lenses face down so the screws point straight up and dab on more JB Weld:
Silhouette frame – lens mount curing
Those dots aren’t quite as round as I’d like, but they’re the better part of 2 mm OD and I’m not complaining much. Note the nice fillet around the temple piece at end of the tubing.
Pause another day for curing…
Then file off the rough edges and peel off the Parafilm. It’s a bit on the garish side, but Mary preferred the Steampunk look over a crude paint job, particularly because it’s invisible from her side of the lens:
Mary volunteered me as a “white glove” helper: we walked the show floor for a few hours wearing cute aprons and white knit gloves.
Rule Zero: nobody touches the quilts. When people wanted to see the back side, we did all the handling. This worked out quite well; pretty nearly everybody understood what was going on, although we all agreed that fine quilts exhibit a magnetic attraction to fingertips.
Pro tip I: when the sign at the entrance says NO DRINKS, that means your coffee isn’t allowed in the exhibit area. You may be a special person, but you’re not that special. We’re not picking on you.
Pro tip II: when you bring your brat to a quilt show and let the kid dive under frames holding quilts representing thousands of hours of painstaking work, don’t act surprised when I haul him out by the feet, reprimand him, give him back to you, and expect you to get your act together.
I obviously had the wrong chromosome loadout for the mission.
Mary’s Butterfly Flower quilt nailed First Place in the Appliqué Wall Quilt division!