The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Home Ec

Things around the home & hearth

Custom 45° Triangle Quilting Ruler

Mary’s current quilt project has a corner design with an essentially infinite number of 45° triangles, which another custom ruler will simplify:

45° Quilting Ruler – finished

That’s the end result of several iterations, proceeding from doodles to sketches to increasingly accurate laser-cut prototypes:

45° Quilting Ruler – prototypes

A “ruler” in quilting parlance is a thing guiding the sewing machine’s “ruler foot” across the fabric (or, for sit-down machines, the fabric under the foot) in specific directions:

45° Quilting Ruler – in use

That’s a practice quilt on scrap fabric: quilters need prototypes, too!

The foot is 0.5 inch OD, within a reasonable tolerance, which accounts for the slot width in the ruler. It’s also intended to run against 1/4 inch thick rulers, which accounts for the thickness of that slab of acrylic.

The engraved lines & arcs are on the bottom of the ruler to eliminate parallax errors against the fabric, so the bottom is upward and the text is mirrored for the laser:

45° Quilting Ruler – cutting

Although fluorescent green acrylic may have higher visibility, clear seems adequate for the fabric in question:

45° Quilting Ruler – colored fabric

I very carefully trimmed the arcs against the ruler outline using LightBurn’s Cut Shapes, which turned out to be a Bad Idea™, because the high-current pulse as the laser fires causes a visible puncture wound at the still-to-be-cut edge:

45° Quilting Ruler – edge damage

Those are not straight lines and the plastic isn’t bent!

A closer look:

45° Quilting Ruler – edge damage – detail

The arcs without wounds started from their other end and stopped at the edge, which is perfectly fine.

The wounds are unsightly, not structural, but the next time around I’ll extend the markings a millimeter beyond the edges into the scrap material.

The overall design looks busier than it is, because I put different features on different layers in case they needed different settings:

45 Degree Quilting Ruler – LightBurn layout

The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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view raw 45 Degree Quilting Ruler – LightBurn layout.svg hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2026-03-27
Star Quilting Ruler Salvage: Laser Recutting

Mary picked up a pair of Star quilting rulers from the Quilting Guild’s “exchange” table:

Star quilting ruler – finished

They’re 1/4 inch laser-cut acrylic slabs dating back to the turn of the millennium, when laser cuttery wasn’t nearly as common as today. Apparently, the (now long gone) Gadget Girls had a problem with their laser: the larger star had eight of its ten lines not cut completely through the acrylic. The protective paper on the back had small perforations along a few of the lines, but nothing for most of them.

Well, I can fix that.

Lay the slab on the platform and lock it in place so it cannot move:

Star quilting ruler – laser setup

That’s with the original bottom side facing upward, so the laser beam will hit the uncut part of the lines.

Focus the laser atop some scrap 1/4 inch acrylic, then verify the red dot pointer is exactly concentric with the CO₂ beam by firing a test pulse, as in this punched card:

Red dot vs printed target vs laser spot alignment

Adjust as needed.

Jog the laser to put the red dot pointer exactly at a star point:

Star quilting ruler – laser point alignment

Hit Get Position in the Laser window so LightBurn knows where the laser head is located.

I’ve added the targets I normally use for LightBurn’s Print and Cut alignment to its Art Library, so I dragged one to the workspace, then hit Move to Laser Position to snap the target directly onto that point of the star.

Repeat for vertices along the star, then draw a multi-segment line = path between the target centers:

Star Ruler Re-cutting – LightBurn layout

That’s one continuous path from the upper right, counterclockwise around the star, ending in the center right. The missing pair of lines (and the vertex between them) were already cut, so I didn’t need to locate them.

The camera view shows the alignment, although IMO the camera simply isn’t capable of such finicky alignment:

Star Ruler Re-cutting – LightBurn layout overlay

As a confidence builder, I selected each target, moved the laser to that point, then fired a test pulse to verify the hole hit the vertex. In most cases, I couldn’t see the hole because it was within the original cut.

My 60 W laser can’t cut through 1/4 inch = 6 mm acrylic in a single pass, so I use a 10 mm/s @ 60% pass to get most of the way through and a 20 mm/s @ 60% pass to complete the cut. That seemed excessive for a mostly cut path, but a single 20 mm/s @ 60% pass didn’t completely clear the uncut sections.

So I used the normal two-pass cut and the star lifted right out:

Star quilting ruler – victory

Happy dance!

Although it is not obvious from the pictures, the star is not symmetric: it fits into the sheet in only one of its ten possible orientations. I will never know if that was a deliberate stylin’ decision or the result of hand layout before CAD spread throughout the land.

I managed to locate the vertices so accurately that the repeated cuts left edges indistinguishable from the original cuts on the two free sides, which was a pleasant surprise.

Mary promises to do something with those stars when she’s done with her current project(s). She may want the slab of acrylic around the large star trimmed into a smaller and more manageable decagon, in which case I will suddenly have a bounty of thick fluorescent green acrylic.

2026-03-26
Magnetic Stirrer: Interior

Of late, the magnetic stirrer mixing my morning cocoa occasionally doesn’t start spinning when I turn it on, which calls for some investigation.

Removing the four obvious screws concealed under the rubber feet and prying off bottom cover reveals the trivial innards:

Magnetic stirrer – interior

The speed adjustment pot holds the little circuit board in place, with the green LED setting its jaunty angle.

The motor spins a pair of neodymium magnets:

Magnetic stirrer – magnet holder

I expected a gearbox instead of the direct drive setup.

Perhaps those whirling neodymium magnets have been slowly demagnetizing the motor’s internal (alnico?) magnets.

The motor brushes seem to be a pair of stiff wires, rather than carbon blocks, contacting the commutator, the wear from which may account for motor’s decreasing startup enthusiasm. Even though I didn’t expect a BLDC motor, this one may have been overly cheapnified.

Perhaps kickstarting the motor with the steel fork I use to fish the stirrer magnet out of the mug will get the thing going.

2026-03-23
Tax Season: 2026 Edition

Having recently filed our income taxes, this email came as a mild surprise:

IRS Audit email

The From field seemed a bit sketchy, but, hey, maybe the IRS subcontracted their email vendor after having lost much of their staff in the name of efficiency.

The attached PDF document seemed scant:

IRS Audit document

Yeah, I’m definitely clicking that link …

2026-03-20
Wobbly Clothes Rack Repair
A clothes rack Mary intended use with some work-in-progress quilts seemed entirely too wobbly for the purpose, so I tried tightening its screws. This did not go well, as some of the threaded inserts sunk into the vertical bars spun freely and, with a bit of persuasion, pulled straight out of their sockets:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert penetrating oil

The reddish fluid is Kroil penetrating oil I hoped would free the screws from the corrosion locking them into the inserts. After an overnight soak, they still required force majeure:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert in vise

The two inserts on the left came from the top of the rack and the other two from the bottom:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert corrosion

Similar inserts have a hex drive recess and, because these are for 1/4-20 screws, I expected an inch size hex key. Nope, they want a hard metric 6 mm:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert reformed

I cleaned up the corroded inserts by the simple expedient of tapping them firmly onto the 6 mm wrench held in the vise:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert hex reforming

The crud around the bottom fell out of previous contestants during their reformation.

I considered epoxying the inserts in place, but settled for tucking a thick paper shim into each hole:

Clothes rack screws – threaded insert shim

They’re entirely snug right now and, should they work loose, I’ll coat the hole with epoxy, roll up another shim, screw the insert in place, await curing, then declare victory and hope nobody must ever remove them.

The 1/4-20 screws in the top member sit deep in recesses that surely had decorative wood plugs when the rack left the factory. Alas, they’re long gone, which may have let water / moisture corrode the screws + inserts . I’m not much good for “decorative” items, so this must suffice:

Clothes Rack Screw Covers – solid model

A snippet of double-sided tape on one side of the hole keeps them in place:

Clothes rack screws – cover installed

They look better in person …

The trivial OpenSCAD source code:
```
// Clothes rack screw cover
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
// 2026-03-13

include <BOSL2/std.scad>

/* [Hidden] */

NumSides = 4*3*3*4;
$fn=NumSides;

//----------
// Build it
//  … with magic numbers from the rack

cyl(3.0,d=16.7,chamfer1=1.0,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
  cyl(6.0,d=12.9,chamfer2=1.0,anchor=BOTTOM);
```
2026-03-18
Clover Mini-Iron Holder: Revised

The 3D printed Clover Mini-Iron holder served well over the last decade (!), even after one of Mary’s buddies misplaced the iron during a quilting bee:

Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder – melted

She asked for a new holder that put the iron at a higher angle for easier gripping, which required only slight tinkering to boot the OpenSCAD code into the current decade:

Clover MCI-900 Mini Iron holder – higher angle

The letters stand one layer proud of the surface just to see what that looked like. I think it’s a nice touch.

The alert reader will note the cord end isn’t quite snugged into its recess. In normal use, the cord hangs over the edge of the sewing table and pulls the iron into place.

I embiggened the base to fit an aluminum plate from the stockpile, because that same cord tends to pull the holder around on the table. The plate puts enough weight on the silicone rubber feet to hold it firmly in place.

A layer of good double-stick tape strips bonds the aluminum plate to the PETG iron holder, after I once again discovered that craft adhesive sheets do not bond to PETG.

2026-03-17
LED Garage Light: Autopsy

The hidden part of all three LED arrays in the dead garage light looked like this:

LED Garage Light – inadequate heatsink compound

Although the compound was still gooey, there wasn’t nearly enough of it. The few tendrils on the heatsink suggest the LED array had bowed upward, pulled away from the cast aluminum, and eliminated any direct conduction.

A bit of probing showed each LED array had 16 series groups of 4 parallel LEDS, with one group in each array failed open. That group was toward the end away from the inadequate heatsink compound: the LEDs died from heatstroke brought on by neglect.

The Drawer o’ LED Arrays disgorged a bag of surplus LEDs labeled “10 W 9-12 V 750 mA”:

LED Garage Light – epoxy replacement

It’s sitting on a generous blob of steel-filled JB Kwik epoxy that should do a great job of conducting heat. A bag of cheap constant-current supplies is on order.

Amazon has similar “10 W 9-12 V 350-450 mA” arrays.

Try as I might, I can’t get 10 W from those numbers, but I’ve never understood advertising math.

2026-03-10