Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

Monthly Science: USB Current Testers vs. NP-BX1 Batteries
Having some interest in my Sony HDR-AS30 helmet camera’s NP-BX1 battery runtime, I’ve been measuring and plotting recharge versus runtime after each ride:

USB Testers – Charge vs Runtime

The vertical axis is the total charge in mA·h, the horizontal axis is the discharge time = recorded video duration. Because 1 A = 1 coulomb/s, 1 mA·h = 3.6 C.

The data points fall neatly on two lines corresponding to a pair of cheap USB testers:

USB Testers

When you have one tester, you know the USB current. When you have two testers, you’re … uncertain.

The upper tester is completely anonymous, helpfully displaying USB Tester while starting up. The lower one is labeled “Keweisi” to distinguish it from the myriad others on eBay with identical hardware; its display doesn’t provide any identifying information.

The back sides reveal the current sense resistors:

USB Testers – sense resistors

Even the 25 mΩ resistor drops enough voltage that the charger’s blue LED dims appreciably during each current pulse. The 50 mΩ resistor seems somewhat worse in that regard, but eyeballs are notoriously uncalibrated optical sensors.

The upper line (from the anonymous tester) has a slope of 11.8 mA·h/minute of discharge time, the lower (from the Keweisi tester) works out to 8.5 mA·h/minute. There’s no way to reconcile the difference, so at some point I should measure the actual current and compare it with their displays.

Earlier testing suggested the camera uses 2.2 W = 600 mA at 3.7 V. Each minute of runtime consumes 10 mA·h of charge:
```
10 mA·h = 600 mA × 60 s / (3600 s/hour)
```
Which is in pretty good agreement with neither of the testers, but at least it’s in the right ballpark. If you boldly average the two slopes, it’s dead on at 10.1 mA·h/min; numerology can produce any answer you need if you try hard enough.

Actually, I’d believe the anonymous meter’s results are closer to the truth, because recharging a lithium battery requires 10% to 20% more energy than the battery delivered to the device, so 11.8 mA·h/min sounds about right.

Memo to Self: Trust, but verify.
2020-06-01

Glass Tiles: 2×2 Matrix

Start with a single cell holding a glass tile over a WS2812 RGB LED:

Glass Tile - 1x1 cell test - purple phase — Glass Tile – 1×1 cell test – purple phase

A bit of OpenSCAD tinkering produces a simple 2×2 array with square interiors as a test piece:

Glass Tile - 2x2 - PETG strings — Glass Tile – 2×2 – PETG strings

The excessive stringing and the booger in the upper-left cell come from absurdly thin infill tucked into the too-thin walls; Slic3r doesn’t (seem to) have a “minimum infill width” setting and it’ll desperately try to fit infill between two nearly adjacent perimeter threads.

The little support spiders under the LED PCB recesses snapped right out, though, so I got that part right:

Glass Tile - 2x2 - support spiders — Glass Tile – 2×2 – support spiders

The perimeter threads around the LED aperture aren’t quite fused, because it was only one layer thick and that’s not enough.

A quick test with two LEDs showed the white PETG let far too much light bleed between the cells, which was no surprise from the single cell test piece.

Fortunately, it’s all parametric, so a bit more tinkering produced a slightly chunkier matrix with a base for an Arduino Nano and M3 threaded brass inserts for the screws holding it together:

Glass Tile Frame - 2x2 - Arduino Nano base - solid model — Glass Tile Frame – 2×2 – Arduino Nano base – solid model

Those two parts require about three hours of printing, much faster than I could produce them by milling pockets into aluminum or black acrylic slabs, and came out with minimal stringing.

A little cleanup, some epoxy work, and a few dabs of solder later:

Glass Tile - 2x2 - Arduino wiring — Glass Tile – 2×2 – Arduino wiring

An initial lamp test showed the white-ish glass tiles aren’t all quite the same color:

Glass Tile - 2x2 - white color variation — Glass Tile – 2×2 – white color variation

I thought it was an LED color variation, too, but the slightly blue tint in the lower left corner followed the tile.

The blurred horizontal strip across the middle is adhesive tape holding the tiles in place; I was reluctant to glue them in before being sure this whole thing would work. A peek into the future, though, shows it’s got potential:

Glass Tile - 2x2 - first two units — Glass Tile – 2×2 – first two units

They do give off a definite Windows logo vibe, don’t they?

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Illuminated Tile Grid
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
	// 2020-05

	/* [Configuration] */

	Layout = "Build"; // [Cell,CellArray,MCU,Base,Show,Build]

	Shape = "Square"; // [Square, Pyramid, Cone]

	Cells = [2,2];

	CellDepth = 15.0;

	Support = true;

	Inserts = true;

	/* [Hidden] */

	ThreadThick = 0.25;
	ThreadWidth = 0.40;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;

	function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);

	Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	Tile = [25.0 + 0.1,25.0 + 0.1,4.0];

	WallThick = 3*ThreadWidth;

	Flange = [4ThreadWidth,4ThreadWidth,0]; // ridge supporting tile

	Separator = [3ThreadWidth,3ThreadWidth,Tile.z – 1]; // between tiles

	Screw = [3.0,6.0,3.5]; // M3 SHCS, OD=head, LENGTH=head
	Insert = [3.0,4.2,8.0]; // threaded brass insert

	PCB = [15.0,8.0,2.5];

	LED = [5.0 + 2HoleWindage,5.0 + 2HoleWindage,1.0];

	LEDOffset = [0.0,(PCB.y – LED.y)/2 – 0.5,0.0]; // slight offset from +Y PCB edge

	CellOAL = [Tile.x,Tile.y,0] + Separator + [0,0,CellDepth] + [0,0,WallThick] + [0,0,PCB.z];

	ArrayOAL = [Cells.xCellOAL.x,Cells.yCellOAL.y,CellOAL.z]; // just the LED cells

	BlockOAL = ArrayOAL + [2WallThick,2WallThick,0]; // LED cells + exterior wall
	echo(str("Block OAL: ",BlockOAL));

	InsertOC = ArrayOAL – [Insert[OD],Insert[OD],0] – [2WallThick,2WallThick,0];
	echo(str("Insert OC: ",InsertOC));

	TapeThick = 1.0;

	Arduino = [44.0,18.0,8.0 + TapeThick]; // Arduino Nano to top of USB Mini-B plug
	USBPlug = [15.0,11.0,8.5]; // USB Mini-B plug insulator
	USBOffset = [0,0,5.5]; // offset from PCB base

	WiringBay = [BlockOAL.x – 4*WallThick,38.0,3.0];
	PlateOAL = [BlockOAL.x,BlockOAL.y,WallThick + Arduino.z + WiringBay.z];
	echo(str("Base Plate: ",PlateOAL));

	//————————

	module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
	Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
	FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
	cylinder(d=(FixDia + HoleWindage),h=Height,$fn=Sides);
	}


	//———————–
	// Base and optics in single tile

	module LEDCone() {

	hull() {
	translate([0,0,CellDepth + Tile.z/2])
	cube(Tile – [Flange.x,Flange.y,0],center=true);
	if (Shape == "Square") {
	translate([0,0,LED.z/2])
	cube([Tile.x,Tile.y,LED.z] – [Flange.x,Flange.y,0],center=true);
	}
	else if (Shape == "Pyramid") {
	translate([0,0,LED.z/2])
	cube(LED,center=true);
	}
	else if (Shape == "Cone") {
	translate([0,0,LED.z/2])
	cylinder(d=1.5*LED.x,h=LED.z,center=true);
	}
	else {
	echo(str("Whoopsie! Invalid Shape: ",Shape));
	cube(5);
	}
	}
	}

	// One complete LED cell

	module LEDCell() {
	difference() {

	translate([0,0,CellOAL.z/2])
	cube(CellOAL,center=true);

	translate([0,0,CellOAL.z – Separator.z + Tile.z/2])
	cube(Tile,center=true);

	translate([0,0,PCB.z + WallThick])
	LEDCone();

	cube([LED.x,LED.y,CellOAL.z],center=true);

	translate(-LEDOffset + [0,0,PCB.z/2 – Protrusion/2])
	cube(PCB + [0,0,Protrusion],center=true);
	}

	if (Support)
	color("Yellow") render()
	translate(-LEDOffset) {
	// translate([0,0,ThreadThick/2])
	// cube([PCB.x – 2ThreadWidth,PCB.y – 2ThreadWidth,ThreadThick],center=true);
	intersection() {
	translate([0,0,(PCB.z – ThreadThick)/2])
	cube([PCB.x – 2ThreadWidth,PCB.y – 2ThreadWidth,PCB.z – ThreadThick],center=true);
	union() { for (a=[0:22.5:359])
	rotate(a)
	translate([PCB.x/2,0,PCB.z/2])
	cube([PCB.x,2*ThreadWidth,PCB.z],center=true); }
	}
	}
	}

	// The whole array of cells

	module CellArray() {
	difference() {
	union() {
	translate([CellOAL.x/2 – Cells.xCellOAL.x/2,CellOAL.y/2 – Cells.yCellOAL.y/2,0])
	for (i=[0:Cells.x – 1], j=[0:Cells.y – 1])
	translate([iCellOAL.x,jCellOAL.y,0])
	LEDCell();
	if (Inserts) // bosses
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
	translate([iInsertOC.x/2,jInsertOC.y/2,0])
	rotate(180/8)
	cylinder(d=Insert[OD] + 3*WallThick,h=Insert[LENGTH],$fn=8);
	}
	if (Inserts) // holes
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
	translate([iInsertOC.x/2,jInsertOC.y/2,-Protrusion])
	rotate(180/8)
	PolyCyl(Insert[OD],Insert[LENGTH] + WallThick + Protrusion,8);

	}

	difference() {
	translate([0,0,CellOAL.z/2])
	cube(BlockOAL,center=true);
	translate([0,0,CellOAL.z])
	cube(ArrayOAL + [0,0,2*CellOAL.z],center=true);

	}
	}

	// Arduino bounding box
	// Origin at center bottom of PCB

	module Controller() {
	union() {
	translate([0,0,Arduino.z/2])
	cube(Arduino,center=true);
	translate([Arduino.x/2 – Protrusion,-USBPlug.y/2,USBOffset.z + TapeThick – USBPlug.z/2])
	cube(USBPlug + [Protrusion,0,0],center=false);
	}
	}

	// Baseplate

	module BasePlate() {

	difference() {
	translate([0,0,PlateOAL.z/2])
	cube(PlateOAL,center=true);
	translate([0,0,WallThick])
	Controller();
	translate([0,0,WallThick + PlateOAL.z/2])
	cube([Arduino.x – 2*2.0,WiringBay.y,PlateOAL.z],center=true);
	translate([0,0,PlateOAL.z – WiringBay.z + WiringBay.z/2])
	cube(WiringBay + [0,0,2*Protrusion],center=true);
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
	translate([iInsertOC.x/2,jInsertOC.y/2,-Protrusion])
	rotate(180/8) {
	PolyCyl(Screw[ID],2*PlateOAL.z,8);
	PolyCyl(Screw[OD],Screw[LENGTH] + 4*ThreadThick + Protrusion,8);
	}
	translate([0,0,ThreadThick-Protrusion])
	cube([17.0,45,2*ThreadThick],center=true);
	}

	linear_extrude(height=2*ThreadWidth + Protrusion) {
	translate([1,0,-Protrusion])
	rotate(-90) mirror([1,0,0])
	text(text="Ed Nisley",size=6,font="Arial:style:Bold",halign="center");
	translate([-6.5,0,-Protrusion])
	rotate(-90) mirror([1,0,0])
	text(text="softsolder.com",size=4.5,font="Arial:style:Bold",halign="center");
	}

	if (Support)
	color("Yellow")
	for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
	translate([iInsertOC.x/2,jInsertOC.y/2,0])
	for (a=[0:45:135])
	rotate(a)
	translate([0,0,(Screw[LENGTH] – ThreadThick)/2])
	cube([Screw[OD] – 2ThreadWidth,2ThreadWidth,Screw[LENGTH] – ThreadThick],center=true);
	}


	//———————–
	// Build things

	if (Layout == "Cell")
	LEDCell();

	else if (Layout == "CellArray")
	CellArray();

	else if (Layout == "MCU")
	Controller();

	else if (Layout == "Base")
	BasePlate();

	else if (Layout == "Show") {
	translate([0,0,PlateOAL.z + 10])
	CellArray();
	BasePlate();
	}

	else if (Layout == "Build") {
	translate([0,0.6*BlockOAL.y,0])
	CellArray();
	translate([0,-0.6*BlockOAL.y,0])
	rotate(90)
	BasePlate();
	}

view raw Glass Tile Frame.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2020-05-27

Glass Tiles: Single Test Cell
A single glass tile rests on the ridge around the pyramidal interior:

Glass Tile Frame – pyramid cell

The bottom has a cutout for the WS2812 PCB, with some in-the-model support for simplicity:

Glass Tile Frame – pyramid cell – bottom

Which becomes this in real life:

Glass Tile – 1×1 cell test – pyramid PETG strings

There’s plenty of PETG hair inside the opening, which seems like a Bad Thing all around.

Cleaning out the worst of the fur, taping a WS2812 LED into the opening, and dropping a white-ish tile in place:

Glass Tile – 1×1 cell test – purple phase

Obviously, JPG compression wasn’t built with a finely textured granular surface in mind:

Glass Tile – 1×1 cell test – blue phase

But it looks really nice in a dim room!

With a physical object in hand, it’s obvious the pyramidal interior adds exactly zero value:
- Direct rays in the beam from the WS2812 don’t hit the walls
- Light outside the beam doesn’t contribute much after hitting those irregular walls
So the next pass should be just a hollow box with tweaked tile & PCB measurement: rapid prototyping in full effect!
2020-05-26
Glass Tiles: Proof of Concept

Extract some victims from a square foot of glass tiles:

Glass Tiles – as sold

Wire an old WS2812 breakout board (the new ones are much larger) to an Arduino Nano running the Nissan Fog Lamp firmware:

Glass Tile – backlight blue – setup

Aaaand it looks like this might actually work:

Glass Tile – backlight blue

The WS2812 “beam” illuminates the 25 mm square tile without too much vignetting at about 15 mm.

The bottom tile is white-ish, the top is gray-ish, and they look different enough to justify using only one color in each array:

Glass Tile – backlight neutral

Now, for some solid modeling …

2020-05-25
Floor Lamp Height vs. Reach: Plumbing Fitting

Update: Welcome Adafruit! The reshaped elbow shown here eventually got threaded adapters for the tubing and an awful paint job.

The floor lamp with the invisible / non-tactile controls moved to a different chair, where it didn’t have quite enough reach and too much height. Knowing what was about to happen, I spliced a JST-SM connector into the wire inside the tube:

Floor Lamp – base wiring JST-SM connector

After trimming off all the extraneous bits, the larger half of the connector (male pins) fits through the tubing and the smaller half (female sockets) barely fits through the bottom bushings.

It turns out half-inch copper pipe fittings (ID = 15.9 mm) almost exactly fit the tubing (OD = 15.7 mm):

Floor Lamp – copper 45° elbow

A quick test showed the 45° (actually, it’s 135°, but we’re deep into plumbing nomenclature) positioned the lamp head too high and with too much reach:

Floor Lamp – gooseneck exercise

So shorten the tube attached to the head and deburr the cut:

Floor Lamp – tube deburring

The 45° fitting is too high and a 90° fitting is obviously too low, so cut a 20° slice out of a 90° fitting:

Floor Lamp – copper 90° elbow – 20° cutout

Cut a snippet of brass tubing to fit, bash to fit, file to hide, buff everything to a high shine, silver-solder it in place, and buff everything again:

Floor Lamp – copper 90° elbow – 20° fill strip

The 5/8 inch aluminum rods serve to stiffen the fitting, smooth out the torch heating, and generally keep things under control.

Wrap the obligatory Kapton tape around the butt ends of the tubes to fill the fitting’s oversize hole, put everything together, and it’s just about perfect:

Floor Lamp – copper 70° elbow – installed

I immobilized the fitting with black Gorilla tape, but it really needs something a bit more permanent. One of these days, maybe, a pair of setscrews will happen.

The additional reach required a little more counterweight on the far side for security, so I added the broken stub of a truck leaf spring. It should be secured firmly to the base plate, but no tool I own can put a dent in those three pounds of spring steel. Maybe it’ll merit a fancy enclosure wrapped around the base?

2020-05-09
Halogen H3 Bulb

Peering into the bulb salvaged from the Nissan fog light suggests the scuff on the lens corresponds to an impact mighty enough to disarrange the filament:

Halogen H3 bulb – 1.5 A – light

No surprise, as the car completely shattered the utility pole.

The glow draws 1.5 A from a bench supply at 1 V, just to show the filament isn’t lighting up evenly across those gaps. The bulb runs at 55 W from 12 V and would be, I’m sure, blindingly bright, although the heat concentrated in those few coils suggests it’d burn out fairly quickly.

By LED standards, though, you don’t get much light for your 1.5 W …

An underexposed version highlights the filament, just for pretty:

Halogen H3 bulb – 1.5 A – dark

Cropped to 9:16, it’s now a desktop background.

2020-04-30
HP 10526T Logic Pulser Checkout

When I re-capped the HP 10525T Logic Probe, I expected the matching HP 10526T Logic Pulser would require the same treatment. Having finally gotten a Round Tuit, I preemptively pulled it apart to see what was going on inside:

HP 10526T Logic Pulser – PCB detail

The manual includes the schematic, of course:

HP 10526T Logic Pulser – schematic

The IC is a Motorola SN7404 Hex Inverter sporting an HP house number in a ceramic flatpack: pin 1 in the upper right, VCC on pin 4, and common on pin 11. The 7716 datecode suggests the chip first saw daylight shortly after single-chip microcontrollers became a nontrivial thing.

The pushbutton switch triggers the expected pulses at pins 10 (purple) and 12 (yellow), with timings controlled by the RC networks:

U1.12 U1.10

The collector output of Q2 is a robust 73 mA pulse through its 62 Ω resistor:

Q2.c

Q1 dumps 15 mA into its 300 Ω resistor:

Q1.C

The push-pull output at the emitter of Q3 and the collector of Q4 looks similar (albeit with some delay cranked in to show the tidy exponential tail):

Q3.e – Q4.c

The manual specifies a 3.0 Ω resistor to ground for Test A, thusly:

HP 10526T Logic Pulser – Test A setup

The output peaks at nearly 3 V to drive a robust 1 A (!) pulse:

Test A pulse

Test B requires a 6.2 Ω resistor driven from 5 V, but a 6.8 Ω resistor came to hand:

HP 10526T Logic Pulser – Test B setup

The downward pulse doesn’t quite reach 0 V (because saturation voltage, etc), so it’s a mere 725 mA:

Test B pulse

HP’s formal setup for Test C requires a totalizing counter to show the pulser produces exactly one pulse for each button push. I just wired up a 47 Ω resistor and eyeballed a few pulses:

Test C pulse – 47 ohm

The lighter 85 mA load through the resistor allows a more rectangular pulse than the 3 Ω resistor. Yup, looks clean to me.

Because the pulser drives its output both low and high with great authority, it doesn’t care what state the external net wants. Here’s what happens with the 47 Ω resistor connected to a 2.5 V supply:

Bipolar pulse – 47 ohm 2.5 V

No matter where the logic family’s threshold might be, the net will experience one downward and one upward transition through it: with the pulser delivering nigh onto an amp, the net’s driver doesn’t stand a chance.

However, the pulser was designed for TTL and DTL (remember DTL?) circuitry, so hammering a 3.3 V microcontroller pin probably isn’t a Good Idea. The notion of keeping a pulser around Just In Case may have reached its end times.

Oh, and about the re-capping. Turns out HP used solid tantalum capacitors and they’re still doing fine after four decades, thankyouverymuch. I put it back together and expect it will continue working forevermore.

2020-04-29