The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Bafang Battery Charge Port: Autopsy

    Bafang Battery Charge Port: Autopsy

    My friends in Raleigh sent a small box with the various tools I made, along with the scorched Bafang battery charge port. As it turned out, none of the tools were useful and the real fix required opening the battery cover enough to remove and replace the charge connector.

    A view looking straight into the connector, with the side contact on the top of the image:

    Bafang Battery Charge Port - damage overview
    Bafang Battery Charge Port – damage overview

    Gutting the connector shows why my homebrew shell drill wasn’t going to work:

    Bafang Battery Charge Port - components
    Bafang Battery Charge Port – components

    There’s not much left of the central pin: the nugget hanging on its side is much larger than I expected. Most of the pin melted into that nugget, with a bonus droplet on the near side.

    The rectangular chunk (upper right) is the switch terminal, with the tab from the side contact (on the right) welded to it.

    Fortunately, none of the mayhem (including a few small sparks during the connector replacement) damaged the battery management circuitry or triggered a shutdown, so the reset tool wasn’t needed.

    It’ll make a great 3D printing show-n-tell exhibit, in the unlikely event I ever do an in-person talk

  • Verizon FiOS Battery Replacement

    Verizon FiOS Battery Replacement

    Being that type of guy, a red LED glowing in the far corner of the basement attracts my attention:

    Verizon FiOS - replace battery
    Verizon FiOS – replace battery

    Back in the day, Verizon didn’t make it obvious that the customer is responsible for replacing the battery keeping the ONT alive during power failures. I expect VZ would eventually let me know the battery was dead, remind me I was on the hook for the replacement, then offer to send a tech around with a Genuine VZ Battery to maintain reliable service.

    It’s an ordinary 12 V 8 A·hr sealed lead acid battery and, yes, it’s been in there for a while:

    Verizon FiOS - OEM battery date
    Verizon FiOS – OEM battery date

    However, being that type of guy, I just happen to have a box of not-dead-yet SLA batteries waiting for recycling:

    UPS SLA 2021-10-22
    UPS SLA 2021-10-22

    They’re three years younger than the VZ battery …

  • Headband LED Light: Cell Isolation

    Headband LED Light: Cell Isolation

    In preparation for the next time a task puts my head in a dark place, I got a cheap headband LED light:

    Headband LED - overview
    Headband LED – overview

    Unlike most of the others you’ll find, this one has a pair of 18650 lithium cells in the box on the back of the headband:

    Headband LED - isolated cell
    Headband LED – isolated cell

    Contrary to what you might think, the cells are in parallel, with shorting plates connecting the battery compartment terminals. This works well for perfectly matched cells, which is not what arrives in the package.

    The 3200 mA·hr capacity claimed (in one line of the product description) doesn’t match the 2200 mA·hr capacity (claimed in another line and) printed on the cells. As expected, both claims far exceed the actual 1500 mA·hr measured capacity.

    LED Headband Light - 2022-01-12
    LED Headband Light – 2022-01-12

    The 1 A load is somewhat more than the 800 mA I measured at full brightness, but makes for easy comparisons.

    I think they put the cells in parallel to reach the claimed 4-6 hours of run time, but in practice the connection discharges the better cell to match the weaker one with no assurance of equal load sharing thereafter.

    So I conjured an insulator from the Box o’ Retail Clamshells:

    Headband LED - cell isolator
    Headband LED – cell isolator

    In the unlikely event my head must remain stuck in a dark spot for longer than one cell lasts, I can move the insulator to the dead cell and continue the mission. Charging alternate cells isn’t much of a burden, either.

    For unknown reasons, the (anonymous) manufacturer soldered the LED package at a jaunty angle inside the frame:

    Headband LED - SMD alignment
    Headband LED – SMD alignment

    The lens pulls in-and-out to zoom the focus. The tightest setting (all the way out) projects a bright tilted square out in front, which is somewhat unsettling.

    The whole affair cost less than a pair of known-good 18650 cells from a reputable supplier, so ya get what ya get.

  • Tektronix AM503: Special Adapter and Failed BNC Bullet

    Tektronix AM503: Special Adapter and Failed BNC Bullet

    The Tektronix AM503 manual specifies a Special Adapter to inject a signal directly into the input connector in place of the A6302 Hall probe:

    Tektronix AM503 Special Adapter
    Tektronix AM503 Special Adapter

    The intricate Amphenol plug might still be available at some phenomenal cost, but I’m willing to just jam a pair of wires into the AM593 connector and be done with it.

    I combined a pigtail BNC sporting a male connector, two 51 Ω resistors in parallel, two snippets of 18 AWG wire (an exact match for the 40 mil connector pins!) with the ends filed smooth, and some heatshrink tubing to make a roughly equivalent adapter:

    Tek AM503 - Crude Special Adapter
    Tek AM503 – Crude Special Adapter

    Because the pigtail didn’t quite reach the function generator, I joined it to a longer cable with a BNC bullet, whereupon a slight tug ripped the guts out of the bullet:

    BNC Bullet - failed
    BNC Bullet – failed

    A closer look:

    BNC Bullet - parts
    BNC Bullet – parts

    The center hole comes into play with their equally craptastic BNC tee connectors.

    Comparing this bullet with others from the same eBay lot shows the outer shell didn’t get quite enough crimp around the metal ring. Because it’s not an electrical connection, I eased some epoxy onto the internal shoulder where that ring seats, then slid the guts back in place.

    Yak shaving in full effect!

  • Tektronix AM503: Recapping

    Tektronix AM503: Recapping

    It turns out that the Tektronix AM503 with the 4 MHz oscillation (B075593) had a 2 MHz oscillation after I replaced C165:

    Tek AM503 - corroded capacitor
    Tek AM503 – corroded capacitor

    So, despite it not showing any leakage or damage, I replaced C155:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - C155
    Tek AM503 B075593 – C155

    Which had stopped being a capacitor some time ago:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - C155 measurement
    Tek AM503 B075593 – C155 measurement

    I also replaced C165 with a newer capacitor.

    Again, having the hood up, I pulled C452 and C462 from the ±19.3 V supplies:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - C452 C462
    Tek AM503 B075593 – C452 C462

    Despite the 1987 date code, they seemed to be in fine shape, but I replaced them anyway. The new caps have a 50 V rating, not the original 63 V: only a factor of two headroom.

    The four new capacitors in their new home:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - replaced caps
    Tek AM503 B075593 – replaced caps

    The power supply voltages looked clean before and look clean now.

    The AM503 still has the mysterious 4 MHz oscillation, so the capacitors weren’t the problem. Even though the amp is still sick, I feel better.

  • Tektronix AM503: Bring the Noise

    Tektronix AM503: Bring the Noise

    Popping a 2N5911 dual JFET into the noisy Tektronix AM503 (B064098) eliminated both the noise and the offset problems:

    Tek AM503 - SDS2304 cal - 1 mA-div
    Tek AM503 – SDS2304 cal – 1 mA-div

    The test signal (yellow) comes from the scope’s calibrator output into a 2320 Ω resistor, so the AM503 calibration is about right: 0.6 mA ≅ 1.5 V/2320 Ω.

    Just to maintain historical accuracy in the two AM503 amps in the TM502 mainframe on the Electronics Workbench, I transplanted the good (not noisy) OEM Tek Q230 (from SN B075593) into the previously noisy-and-offset-prone AM503, which now works fine. I now have a pair of works-pretty-good AM503 amps, one not-so-good AM503 in the to-be-fixed lookaside buffer, plus a defunct Q230 dual JFET.

    That third amp (B075593, now with the NOS 2N5911) has a nasty noise problem:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - SDS2304 cal - 1 mA-div
    Tek AM503 B075593 – SDS2304 cal – 1 mA-div

    The barely visible yellow trace is the same calibrator signal as before, but the output is a howling 4.2 MHz (!) sine wave. The oscillation amplitude responds to the AM503 front panel gain control, making it possible to see what’s going on:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - 4 MHz oscillation
    Tek AM503 B075593 – 4 MHz oscillation

    Flipping the front panel switch to limit the AM503 bandwidth to 5 MHz shaves off the fur:

    Tek AM503 B075593 - 4 MHz osc - 5 MHz BW
    Tek AM503 B075593 – 4 MHz osc – 5 MHz BW

    Disconnecting the probe or unplugging P220 kills the oscillation, as does setting the front panel switch to CAL/DC LEVEL, which means it’s an internal feedback problem.

    It’s trivially easy to construct an amplifier circuit that becomes an oscillator at the slightest provocation, but this puppy had been working dependably for somebody else during the three decades (!) before I bought it and continued for a few years after that, so the overall circuit topology is known-good.

    Shooting this one will require more pondering, as the obvious first step of replacing the power supply’s electrolytic caps had no effect.

  • Amazon Laminator Wiring

    Amazon Laminator Wiring

    Someone with a jammed Amazon laminator inadvertently dislodged the switch wiring, so I took a few more pictures to help. Note: I see absolutely no reason to assume any two laminators will have the same wire colors, but the overall functions should be the same.

    The top set of three switch terminals control the overall power to the laminator:

    Amazon Laminator - switch wiring
    Amazon Laminator – switch wiring

    The center terminal comes from the unmarked (no ridges) wire in the line cord. The two outer terminals are connected together with a short jumper from the terminal nearest the motor, with a longer black wire to the wire nut binding other black wires.

    The bottom set of terminals select the temperature:

    Amazon Laminator - switch bottom contacts
    Amazon Laminator – switch bottom contacts

    The white wire on the center terminal goes to the wire nut holding the other white wires and a black wire (!) going to the middle of the three thermostats on the extrusion. The black and blue wires on the outer switch terminals go to the thermostats on the aluminum extrusion to the heater.

    Verily, it is written: There’s nothing like a good new problem to take one’s mind off all one’s old problems.