The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Laser Power Measurement: Geometric Beam Absorber

    Laser Power Measurement: Geometric Beam Absorber

    CO₂ laser power meters seem to depend on a flat-black absorbing surface to soak up a (typically unfocused) beam pulse, backed by a known metal mass with a thermocouple to measure the temperature rise above ambient. Knowing the pulse width, the temperature rise, the absorber mass and specific heat capacity, you can compute the pulse energy and average power during the pulse.

    Previous tinkering with an old Gentec ED-200 showed this works well, although the absorber surface took something of a beating because it was definitely not rated for the OMTech’s 60 W (claimed) beam power.

    Rather than using a spendy absorber surface with a durable coating, perhaps a geometric absorber using reflective surfaces arranged to channel the energy into the material, rather than away from it, might suffice.

    Consider a pack of ordinary utility knife blades:

    Beam absorber - utility blades - overview
    Beam absorber – utility blades – overview

    Seen kinda-sorta perpendicular to the sharpened side of the blade edge, they’re wonderfully reflective:

    Beam absorber - utility blades - edge flat
    Beam absorber – utility blades – edge flat

    Seen perpendicular to the edge itself, they’re dead black:

    Beam absorber - utility blades - edge-on
    Beam absorber – utility blades – edge-on

    Well, pretty close to dead black. It’s darker in real life, with glimmers along the edge and the rest of it a deep black. The edges are sharp, but utility knife blades will lead a rough life and they don’t start out Scary Sharp.

    Xacto blades come closer to an ideal razor edge:

    Beam absorber - Xacto 11 blades - edge-on
    Beam absorber – Xacto 11 blades – edge-on

    The only things you (well, I) see is dust on the edges. The rest is dead black, because light hitting any shiny surface is reflected deeper into the notch between two blades and eventually absorbed.

    Double-edge razor blades are sharper and would likely be even blacker, particularly cheap ones without fancy lubricating coatings.

    Bonus: the wavelength of CO₂ laser IR light is 10-20× that of visible light, which makes the surfaces that much more reflective. The geometry still channels the reflections into the block and nothing comes out.

    There are some fairly obvious reasons why nobody uses a stack of razor blades as a beam absorber in real life:

    • Lethally sharp cutting hazard
    • Impossible to clean without wrecking the edge

    But for personal use, why not?

    Some doodles:

    Steel has a specific heat around 0.47 J/g·K and a stack of utility blades weighing 140 g is 23 mm across. Soaking up a 60 W beam will raise the temperature of the stack by:

    0.91 K/s = 60 J/s / (0.47 J/g·K × 140 g)

    Which seems reasonable: fire a 10 s burst, measure the temperature rise, and multiply by 0.91.

    Similarly, a stack of Xacto #11 weighing 15 g is 11 mm across and the temperature will rise 8.5 °C/s. You’d use that for lower power beams.

    You could clamp the blades into a larger heatsink, perhaps with a thermocouple / thermistor in a hole drilled into the block.

    Calibrate the stack / heatsink with an embedded cartridge heater: voltage × current × pulse width gives the power dumped into the block, so measuring the temperature rise gives you the temperature-power relation.

    This feels like a great Arduino project, although it’s nowhere near getting started.

    At least I got that scrap of paper off my desk …

  • Kenmore 362.75581890 Oven Igniter: Third Contestant

    Kenmore 362.75581890 Oven Igniter: Third Contestant

    Although the oven igniter I just installed worked, its 3.0 A current fell below the gas valve’s minimum 3.3 A, which, based on past experience, suggested it would fail in short order. Just to see what happened, I sent a note to the seller, who offered a warranty swap and, after a bit of fiddling, the replacement arrived:

    Oven Igniter B - 3.3 A initial current
    Oven Igniter B – 3.3 A initial current

    This one draws exactly 3.3 A, so it just barely meets both its product description and the gas valve’s minimum current.

    We’ll see how long this lasts …

  • SJCam M50 Condensation

    SJCam M50 Condensation

    I put the camera in the front yard to monitor a new groundhog hole, then mowed the lawn. Although smoke drifting in from the Canadian fires has posed a problem, the air quality wasn’t this bad:

    SJCam M50 camera condensation - foggy image
    SJCam M50 camera condensation – foggy image

    It turns out the camera’s case seal isn’t quite up to the task:

    SJCam M50 camera condensation - detail
    SJCam M50 camera condensation – detail

    The lip around the front half of the case presses against a rubber gasket around the rear half, which means the water on the electronics chassis is inside the camera case:

    SJCam M50 camera condensation - case edge
    SJCam M50 camera condensation – case edge

    Fortunately, the water condensed on the inside of the glass lens protector, rather than on the camera itself:

    SJCam M50 camera condensation - interior
    SJCam M50 camera condensation – interior

    I let the whole thing dry out on the bench for a few days and all seems right again.

    The leak does make me think leaving it out in the rain is a Bad Idea™, which isn’t the sort of thought one should have about a trail camera.

    Diurnal pumping can explain many electronic failures. For the record, the monitoring station on the Walkway Over the Hudson vanished a while ago, probably due to rampant electronic corrosion.

  • Sunbeam Clothes Iron Salvage

    Sunbeam Clothes Iron Salvage

    For just under twenty bucks, Mary has a new clothes iron and I harvested the heating element from the longsuffering Sunbeam iron:

    Sunbeam clothes iron - heater connections
    Sunbeam clothes iron – heater connections

    Per the notations:

    • AC Line enters on middle terminal to thermostat
    • Thermostat controlled Line on left terminal to heater
    • AC Neutral to heater terminal on right

    The heater measures 12.6 Ω cold, so 9.5 A → 1.1 kW.

    The iron had an insulating sleeve on the thermostat shaft capped with a plastic dial, which makes perfect sense for something in contact with the hot side of the AC power cord.

    The IC date codes suggest it’s been around since 2002, so it’s about two decades old. In that time, one of the two electrolytic capacitors succumbed to the plague:

    Sunbeam clothes iron - capacitor plague
    Sunbeam clothes iron – capacitor plague

    I think the relay and electronics implemented the iron’s timed shutoff function, but it does seem rather complex for that.

  • Kenmore 362.75581890 Oven Igniter: That Didn’t Take Long

    Kenmore 362.75581890 Oven Igniter: That Didn’t Take Long

    So the oven igniter I installed in January failed to ignite the oven when its current draw fell far enough below the valve’s 3.3 A minimum:

    Oven Igniter - 2.3 A current
    Oven Igniter – 2.3 A current

    Of course, the seller no longer offers that particular igniter.

    I described the problem:

    The igniter just failed. The oven gas valve requires 3.3 to 3.6 amps to open, but this igniter now draws only 2.3 amps, as shown by the clamp-on current meter.

    Because of the low current, the valve does not open and the oven does not heat.

    The igniter should last more than five months!
    How do I go about getting a replacement or a refund?
    Thanks …

    Which generated pretty much the reply you’d expect:

    We are very sorry, because your product is 5 months from the date of purchase, we cannot offer you a refund.
    Please purchase another replacement.

    Which made me a bit salty:

    ” the best quality for greater power connection, higher load and longer service life “

    ” We stand by our products, and our customers are our focus as a business. If you have any quality problem, please contact Funmit customer service team in time, and we will try our best to solve your problems “

    So five months is “longer service life” with “the best quality”.

    Bonus: now I understand what “try our best” means, too.

    But to no avail:

    Have a nice day! We are glad to serve you.
    We are very sorry that you are not satisfied with our products.
    Amazon.com Return Policy:Amazon.com Voluntary 30-Day Return Guarantee: You can return many items you have purchased within 30 days following delivery of the item to you. Our Voluntary 30-Day Return Guarantee does not affect your legal right of withdrawal in any way.
    However, the product has passed the return and exchange period, so it cannot provide you with a warranty.
    If you have other questions, please contact us in time, we will serve you wholeheartedly. Thank you.
    Sincere wishes,
    –By Funmit

    So I bought a slightly more expensive igniter from a different randomly named seller that draws a slightly under-spec but entirely typical 3 A:

    Oven Igniter - 3.0 A initial current
    Oven Igniter – 3.0 A initial current

    This one, however, allegedly comes with a one year warranty:

    Quality you can Trust – All Snap Products are made with premium materials and are tested so they last
    Buy with Confidence – Snap Supply Parts always come with a 1 Year Warranty

    Which surely requires the seller remaining in business until then.

    We shall see how this works out.

  • Laser Water Chiller: Alarm Wiring

    Laser Water Chiller: Alarm Wiring

    I recently replaced the hack-o-matic icemaker + fountain pump cooler with a LightObject Q600 water chiller, an entirely uneventful process. The Q600 has a back panel “aviation connector” with an alarm output for water flow (more precisely, lack thereof) or over / under temperature: pins 1 and 3 are closed during normal conditions and open during alarms (and when the power is off).

    I finally wired the chiller into the OMTech 60 W laser’s internal water flow switch circuit, so that should either flow sensor have a problem with the water or the chiller detects an out of bounds temperature, the laser won’t fire.

    You may recall the laser’s HV power supply arrived with its Water Protect input jumpered to ground, which I then wired to the lid interlock switch to (presumably) reduce the likelihood the replacement power supply will fail hot. The laser’s water flow switch goes to the Ruida controller’s WP input, where it behaves as it should.

    Pin 2 of the chiller’s alarm connector is not connected to anything, so I added a safety ground wire for no good reason:

    Laser Water Chiller - safety ground wire
    Laser Water Chiller – safety ground wire

    The dent in the evaporator tube (upper left) is worrisome.

    While I had the side panel off, I jammed a strip of closed-cell foam around the base of the compressor to silence a truly spectacular rattle:

    Laser Water Chiller - compressor vibration suppression
    Laser Water Chiller – compressor vibration suppression

    I think the three mounting screws (yes, of these two: one up, one down, for no reason I can see) are looser than they should be, but I’m reluctant to tip the whole thing over with a tank full of water to get at the nuts / bolt heads on the bottom.

    The connectors have a twist-lock notch that you must release after removing the screw (on the far side) holding the shell to the body:

    Laser Water Chiller - connector shell keyway
    Laser Water Chiller – connector shell keyway

    I repurposed a USB cable from the Big Box o’ Cables, wrapped with enough silicone tape to fill the cable clamp:

    Laser Water Chiller - connector closeout
    Laser Water Chiller – connector closeout

    In retrospect, I should have paired the red + green and black + white wires, but nobody will ever notice. The drain wire carries the safety ground from pin 2 to the shielding, not that it matters. Both ends of the cable have identical connectors.

    The laser cabinet has a convenient hole, albeit just a bit larger than required, which now has a simple adapter plate with the proper flats:

    Laser Chiller Alarm Connector Plate
    Laser Chiller Alarm Connector Plate

    The blue ring is the same size as the hole, so as to ease lining it up, and the red perimeter surrounds the connector with strips of good double-sided foam tape for maximum sticktivity. Done in clear acrylic from the scrap pile, the platform’s internal lights give it that subtle blue-white hi-tech glow:

    Laser Water Chiller - laser connector installed
    Laser Water Chiller – laser connector installed

    The doubled-up cable ties on the water hose barb connectors are a Good Idea™ due to the somewhat higher pressure of the chiller’s water pump. The bottom of that recess had traces of water on it and, of course, having a hose pop off its barb is a Bad Thing™.

    The new connector is wired in series with the internal flow switch, using a trio of grossly overqualified silicone-filled splices:

    Laser Water Chiller - laser flow switch splices
    Laser Water Chiller – laser flow switch splices

    I did not connect the safety ground from the chiller to the laser’s frame, because they do not share a common breaker circuit and I have better things to do than chase ground loops.

    For whatever it’s worth, the gray cable that came with the laser might also be a repurposed USB cable, too: it has two fat wires and two thin wires, although it’s not wearing USB livery.

    The laser is happy when the chiller is running and unhappy when it’s off, so life is good.

  • MaxLite Candelabra CFL: FAIL

    MaxLite Candelabra CFL: FAIL

    The bathroom ceiling fixture has a nightlight position that we use occasionally, but eventually the little 7 W Christmas Tree bulb failed and I installed this hulk from a box of CFL bulbs a friend scrapped out after switching to LED bulbs:

    MaxLite CFL - overview
    MaxLite CFL – overview

    I never tested whether it actually drew 3 W, but, hey I could feel good. Right? Right?

    Anyhow, this one failed after a few years, too. The “bulb” envelope looked like it might make an attractive blinkie or glowie, so I decided to harvest it.

    The candelabra screw base felt loose and popped off with a push:

    MaxLite CFL - overflow cap
    MaxLite CFL – overflow cap

    Perhaps they chose the envelope before finalizing the circuitry?

    This is why you need a lathe in your shop:

    MaxLite CFL - lathe cutting
    MaxLite CFL – lathe cutting

    It wasn’t particularly well centered, so that was done dead slow and finished with a few hand turns of the chuck. Obviously, I need a crank for the spindle.

    The rest of the circuitry is pretty well packed under that tall cap:

    MaxLite CFL - circuitry
    MaxLite CFL – circuitry

    Pulling the PCB out revealed the tube wiring:

    MaxLite CFL - tube wires
    MaxLite CFL – tube wires

    Cut the wires and chuck it up again:

    MaxLite CFL - envelope turning setup
    MaxLite CFL – envelope turning setup

    Turn dead slow again until it breaks through:

    MaxLite CFL - envelope breakthrough
    MaxLite CFL – envelope breakthrough

    Then finish by hand:

    MaxLite CFL - tube and envelope
    MaxLite CFL – tube and envelope

    It’s too cute to throw out, but … sheesh you can see why recycling this stuff is so difficult.

    For whatever it’s worth, I replaced it with a 3 W LED candelabra bulb that is way too bright.