The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Category: Electronics Workbench

Electrical & Electronic gadgets

  • Kenmore 158: Relay Transient Simulation

    After having blown two ET227 transistors, I fiddled with some SPICE models to explore the ahem problem space. This seems to be the simplest model with all the relevant details:

    Motor Transient - no NTC - schematic
    Motor Transient – no NTC – schematic

    A step change in the voltage source simulates the relay clicking closed with the AC line at a peak. R4 might resemble the total wiring resistance, but is more of a placeholder.

    I measured 1 nF from each motor wire to the motor shell, so I assume a similar value from wire to wire across the winding. I can’t measure that, because, as far as my capacitance meters are concerned, the 40 Ω motor winding looks exactly like a resistor. R1 and L1 model the winding / commutator, but on the time scale we’re interested in, that branch remains an open circuit.

    There’s no transistor model even faintly resembling a hulking ET227, so a current controlled current source must suffice. The 0 V VIB “source” in the base lead measures the base current for the CCCS labeled ET227, which applies a gain of 10 to that value and pulls that current from the collector node. R2 is the internal base-emitter resistor built into the ET227.

    C2 is the 6 nF (!) collector-base capacitance I measured at zero DC bias on a good ET227. That’s much more than you’ll find on any normal transistor and I’m basically assuming it’s vaguely related to the Miller capacitance of small-signal fame. C3 is a similar collector-emitter capacitor; I can’t tell what’s going on under the hood without a whole lot of measurement equipment I don’t have.

    So, without further ado:

    Simple Transient Model - current pulse
    Simple Transient Model – current pulse

    Whenever you see a simulation result like that, grab your hat in both hands and hunker down; the breeze from the handwaving will blow you right off your seat.

    The key unknown: the rise time of the voltage step as the relay contacts snap closed. Old-school mercury-wetted relay contacts have rise times in the low tens of picoseconds. Figuring dry high-power contacts might be 100 times slower gives a 1 ns rise time that I can’t defend very strongly; it seems to be in the right ballpark. The green trace shows the input voltage ramping to 180 V in 1 ns, which is pretty much an irresistible force.

    The motor shunt capacitance forms a voltage divider with the parallel base and collector capacitors, so the collector voltage shouldn’t exceed 180 * (1/(1+3)) = 45 V. In fact, the blue trace shows the collector voltage remains very low, on the order of 10 V, during the whole pulse.

    The red trace shows the collector current hitting 150 A during the entire input ramp, which is exactly what you’d expect from the basic capacitor equation: I = C dv/dt. The current depends entirely on the absurdly fast 180 V / 1 ns rate: if the relay rise time is actually smaller, the current gets absurdly higher.

    The ET227 datasheet remains mute on things like junction capacitance, damage done by nanosecond-scale high-current pulses, and the like.

    Absolutely none of those numbers have even one significant figure of accuracy, but I think the overall conclusion that I’m blowing junctions based on transient startup currents through the collector holds water.

    Adding four of those NTC power thermistors seems in order. This picture also shows the snubber hanging from the back of the ET227, but I eventually took that off because the simulations show it’s not doing anything useful and it does resonate with the 120 Hz halfwave supply:

    HV Interface - snubber and thermistors
    HV Interface – snubber and thermistors

    The thermistors get comfortably warm after a few minutes and settle out around 1 Ω apiece. Adding 4 Ω to the simulation reduces the current to 30 A during a 1 ns ramp, which number obviously depends on all the assumptions mentioned above.

    I’ve been running it like that for a few hours of start-stop operation and the ET227 lives on, so maybe I can declare victory.

  • MakerGear M2: Better Lighting, Redux

    A surplus haul of 24 V / 150 mA white LED panels arrived:

    LED Panel - 24 V 150 mA
    LED Panel – 24 V 150 mA

    I wired a pair to a 24 V wall wart and stuck them under the M2’s bridge supporting the X stage:

    LED Panel - on M2 Gantry
    LED Panel – on M2 Gantry

    I thought about epoxying them in place to get better heatsinking to the metal bridge. The ever-trustworthy description said the big copper baseplate meant the panels didn’t need any heatsinking, so I used tapeless sticky and will hope for the best. Should the sticky give out, then I’ll use epoxy.

    They’re much better than the previous white LED strip, although it’s tough to tell in the pictures. The chain mail armor appears under the new lights; some older pictures will creep in from time to time.

  • Taylor 1478 Kitchen Thermometer: Probe Wire Failure

    We’ve been doing a lot of roasting and bought a not-dirt-cheap Taylor 1478 digital kitchen thermometer with a long probe wire to monitor the meat temperature. As soon as I unpacked it, I knew this would eventually happen:

    Kitchen thermometer - nicked probe wire
    Kitchen thermometer – nicked probe wire

    The cable lasted just long enough to ensure the thermometer warranty expired; it’s a deliberate design flaw if I’ve ever seen one.

    The thermistor inside the probe seems to be 100 kΩ at ordinary temperatures, although I’d be completely unsurprised to find that Taylor uses a slightly nonstandard resistance. Because nonstandard, of course.

    Anyhow, replacement probes (*) are readily available from the usual Amazon suppliers, feature stainless steel braid sheathing and cost about as much as a whole new thermometer (albeit those still have cheap plastic insulation). With a replacement on order, I hauled the failed probe to the shop for an autopsy and possible resurrection…

    Although I hoped that hammering out the crimp would release the thermistor, it was not to be. In retrospect, pulling on the probe wire probably killed it, but I didn’t know that at the time.

    A spring intended to stabilize tubing while bending worked just fine to un-bend the probe:

    Kitchen thermometer - unbending
    Kitchen thermometer – unbending

    But, alas, the thermistor still didn’t emerge from the more-or-less straightened probe.

    Some deft work with a Dremel cutoff wheel sliced enough off the stainless steel tube that I could splice the wires:

    Kitchen thermometer - probe cutting
    Kitchen thermometer – probe cutting

    More cutoff wheel work smoothed the edges of that raw cut end, although the result wasn’t anything to show off.

    The spliced and insulated probe definitely don’t win any awards, either:

    Kitchen thermometer - probe rebuild
    Kitchen thermometer – probe rebuild

    I doubt that the heatshrink tubing or silicone wrap underneath it would be suitable for roasts in the kitchen, but that’s moot: the probe remained intermittent.

    If the new probe is also intermittent, then I’ll suspect the crappy 2.5 mm jack in the side of the thermometer…

    (*) It’s not clear that a replacement probe for a 1470N thermometer will work with a 1478 thermometer. I’m gambling that Taylor wouldn’t be so stupid annoying deliberately obtuse as to use different probe thermistors, but that’s surely a bad bet. There’s no reason to believe Taylor actually makes any of this stuff, which means different models may come from entirely different designers / factories with entirely different supply chains.

  • Monthly Science: Energizer CR2032 Life Time

    It seems the batch of Energizer CR2032 lithium cells I bought a while ago reached the end of their shelf life:

    Energizer CR2032 - short life
    Energizer CR2032 – short life

    In point of fact, I replaced three CR2032 cells this month, all with anomalously short lives: one month counts as a complete failure. The Energizer date code YA isn’t helpful in determining when they were manufactured or what the shelf life might be.

    Admittedly, I bought that batch in late 2009, so they might have used up most of their shelf life on somebody else’s shelf. There’s no way to know.

    It’s not clear one can buy known-good cells from any supplier these days, as the counterfeiters evidently get genuine holograms from the same factory as the Brand Names.

  • NTC 2.5 Power Thermistor Characteristics

    From a surplus batch, with no provenance, measuring the resistance with current increasing (upper = squares) and then decreasing (lower = diamonds):

    NTC 2.5 Resistance vs Current
    NTC 2.5 Resistance vs Current

    The resistance at a given current need not lie between those bounds, because it depends strongly on the thermistor’s temperature (duh), which depends on heat loss to the surroundings.

    With that in mind, 1 or 2 Ω looks like the right ballpark for these gadgets. Figure around half a watt each at 600 mA; string three in series to get 9 Ω during a cold start and 3 Ω for warm starts. It’s not clear that would solve the transistor killing spike, but it’s a thought.

    Compared to the SCK055 NTC thermistor, they have about the same resistance at the same current, despite starting at half the initial cold resistance. I think that’s because they’re somewhat larger and thus run cooler at a given current.

    The original data and a portrait of the thermistor:

    NTC 2.5 Power Thermistor - measurements
    NTC 2.5 Power Thermistor – measurements

    Anybody recognize the logo? The symbol in the striped triangle is S+M, if that helps.

    It’s from TDK/EPCOS: datasheets.

  • Heating Blanket Controller: Soldering QC

    A friend reported that three of the four heating blankets he’s bought over the last several years have failed, so he sent the lot to me for teardown and maybe repair.

    Looking inside one controller showed some obviously bad solder joints:

    Blanket controller - bad joints
    Blanket controller – bad joints

    Hitting the joints with the soldering iron improved their outlook on life, but the controller remained dead; they weren’t really bad joints, they just looked that way.

    If the “lot number” labels on the controllers mean anything, they’ve tried three different triac mounts over the years:

    • A through-hole triac screwed to the board with no heatsink
    • An SMD triac using the PCB copper as a heatsink
    • A through-hole triac with a big aluminum heatsink

    That’s in order of ascending lot number, suggesting the triac caused some reliability problems.

    I’m still trying to figure out how to probe the circuitry without killing myself. An isolation transformer comes to mind, because the blanket dissipates only 85 W.

    Surely the triacs have snubbers…

  • Sony HDR-AS30V Audio vs. Wind Noise

    With the Sony HDR-AS30V in its skeleton frame atop my bike helmet, the audio track for all my rides consists entirely of horrendous wind noise. You can get an idea of the baseline quality from the sound track of a recent Walkway Over The Hudson crossing.

    The camera has two mics, although I’m not sure 15 mm of separation really produces meaningful stereo sound:

    Sony HDR-AS30V - front view
    Sony HDR-AS30V – front view

    Note that two of the five pores on each side are closed flat-bottom pits. As with earbud vents , it must be a stylin’ thing.

    I added a rounded pad of the same acoustic foam that forms an effective wind noise buffer for the boom mic:

    Sony HDR-AS30V - foam mic cover
    Sony HDR-AS30V – foam mic cover

    That reduced the overall noise load by buffering direct wind impact, but non-radio conversations remained unintelligible; there’s just too much low-frequency energy.

    Surprisingly, closing the mic pores with ordinary adhesive tape didn’t impair the audio in a quiet room:

    Sony HDR-AS30V - closed mic pores
    Sony HDR-AS30V – closed mic pores

    Out on the road that’s even better than foam over open mic pores; I think it reduces the peak volume enough that the internal compression can regain control. Sticking the foam pad over the tape slightly reduced the noise during high-speed (for me, anyhow) parts of the ride, but didn’t make much difference overall.

    The wind noise remains too high for comfort, even if I can now hear cleats clicking into pedals, shifters snapping, and even the horrible background music when I’m stopped next to the Mobil gas station on the corner.

    Next step: raid the cloth scrap box for a flap of faux fur to make a mic mop. This might be an opportunity to recycle some roadkill