The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • CD/DVD Data Destruction: Engraving

    CD/DVD Data Destruction: Engraving

    A LightBurn video suggested large scan line intervals for decorative effects, so I adapted the SCP warning labels to fit 4 inch CD/DVD discs, set up the fixture, and Fired The Laser:

    CD Engraving - fixture
    CD Engraving – fixture

    The overall effect is, in most lighting, subtle:

    CD Engraving - samples 2
    CD Engraving – samples 2

    The pair on the right with inverted engraving areas are bolder:

    CD Engraving - samples 1
    CD Engraving – samples 1

    From a distance these two look similar, but a line interval of 0.50 mm (on the left) produces a distinct lined effect compared to the overall frosty look for 0.25 mm (open in a new tab & zoom in):

    CD Engraving - vary interval
    CD Engraving – vary interval

    The left and right edges of the disc warp upward as the surface melts and cools, pulling the disc into a potato chip shape. Doing large areas with 0.5 mm spacing produces less warp than 0.25 mm.

    The laser barely fires at 10% power (on the right) and produces a line with a distinct granular look compared the smoother result at 20% (on the left), both at 0.50 mm interval to show the lines:

    CD Engraving - vary power
    CD Engraving – vary power

    A 2 mm border at 0.25 mm interval (on the right, with a DVD) appears lighter than the central area at 0.50 mm (the CD on the left does not have the border):

    CD Engraving - interval passes
    CD Engraving – interval passes

    A closer look at the border:

    CD Engraving - low power irregularity
    CD Engraving – low power irregularity

    The reason behind the granular effect at 10% power is more obvious with higher magnification:

    CD Engraving - interval passes - detail
    CD Engraving – interval passes – detail

    The spots off to the right are surface imperfections and dirt, not random laser tube firing.

    The border and the central area happen on two different passes, so it’s comforting to see how closely the scan lines match.

    I glued pairs of discs together with E6000 adhesive to discover whether it’s less awful than cutting and aligning adhesive sheets. Yup, much better, but white adhesive requires better path control to keep it out of the transparent ring around the hub and better quantity control to prevent blobs from squooshing out around the perimeter. Using clear adhesive would help, as would a fresh tube without a plug of cured gunk blocking the nozzle.

    Once again, I have Too Many Coasters.

  • HQ Sixteen: Heisenbug vs. Schematic

    HQ Sixteen: Heisenbug vs. Schematic

    After running reliably for a few weeks, the HQ Sixteen Heisenbug returned, displaying a Motor Stall error on the first attempt to run the motor. This gave me the opportunity to extract the PCB, compare it with the first rough schematic, then correct a few resistor values and connections.

    Redrewing (most of) it in somewhat canonical form:

    HQ Sixteen - Power PCB - schematic 2025-01-14
    HQ Sixteen – Power PCB – schematic 2025-01-14

    As before:

    • Do not assume any connections or components are correct or correctly drawn.
    • !!CAUTION!! The motor supply is direct-from-the-AC-line non-isolated +160 VDC.
    • !!CAUTION!! The GND traces are not isolated from the AC line and are not at the normal “0 V” AC neutral potential.

    When the machine operates normally, the relay pulls in with a distinct click slightly after the power switch closed. With the Heisenbug in full effect, the relay does not click, suggesting a fault in its driver circuitry.

    With the motor pod resting on a box beside the machine, I gingerly measured the voltage at various points on the top of the PCB. As far as I could tell, the entire +15 VDC power supply was dead: no voltage at either the input or output terminal of the LM7815 regulator!

    NOTE: The obvious screws along the top edge of the PCB are not connected to the power PCB circuit GND. Instead, they’re part of the controller’s power circuitry from the isolated power supply produced by rectifier bridge B3 and passed through J1 in the upper left corner of the PCB. Instead, the left lead on R1 (the 5W sandbox resistor) is a convenient GND terminal.

    So I hauled the little DSO150 battery-powered oscilloscope and a handful of clip leads up from the Basement Laboratory, got everything arranged, turned on the power, and the machine worked perfectly again.

    That’s why it’s called a Heisenbug: look at it and it vanishes.

    Given a faint indication of power supply problems, I verified all four diodes in Bridge Rectifier B21 are OK and the Skynet transformer windings were solid. I resoldered all the PCB connections from the transformer to U2, the LM7815 regulator, plus the green jumper wires.

    The machine is now back together, it continues to work, and all my test equipment is back in the basement.

    If it happens again, I’ll mount a cheerful LED on the pod to show the supply is working.

  • HLP-200B Laser Power Meter: Mirror Losses

    HLP-200B Laser Power Meter: Mirror Losses

    With the manual laser pulse button in place, I measured the beam power at the entry and exit planes of Mirror 1 and Mirror 2, with the differences indicating something about the reflectivity (or lack thereof) of the molybdenum mirrors. Given that the losses are on the order of a few percent, tops, I expected this to be below the repeatability of the measurements.

    The Mirror 1 entry point is basically the same as the laser tube exit:

    HLP-200B - Laser tube exit
    HLP-200B – Laser tube exit

    The Mirror 1 exit plane is perpendicular to that, just behind the mirror, but there is no way I can get a picture of the arrangement. Suffice it to say I do not want to ever put any body parts that close to an operating laser tube again.

    The HLP-200B meter turned out to be exactly the right length to stand on its own in front of Mirror 2, although I needed a few test shots to figure out the lateral positioning:

    HLP-200B Mirror 2 entry check
    HLP-200B Mirror 2 entry check

    The Mirror 2 exit measurements were hand-held, with the meter braced against the mirror mount brackets on the gantry:

    HLP-200B Mirror 2 exit
    HLP-200B Mirror 2 exit

    Without further ado, the results:

    M1 EntryM1 ExitM2 EntryM2 Exit
    35.531.230.332.9
    28.330.629.132.6
    31.822.827.828.9
    30.329.029.428.5
    26.928.428.727.0
    31.131.728.626.9
    30.729.029.029.5
    2.993.270.842.67

    The bold line gives the average of the six measurements at each position, with the sample standard deviation below that.

    As expected, the pulse-to-pulse variations swamp any actual differences between the entry and exit power levels; Mirror 2 does not have a net power gain. A 2% loss in the mirror is 0.6 W at 30 W, obviously far too small for the HLP-200B meter to resolve.

    I must once again set up the photocell to measure the stray IR scattered around the beam, measure the actual tube current, then see if the two vary as much as the HLP-200B says the beam power does.

  • Whole House Filter Disassembly

    Whole House Filter Disassembly

    The sediment and carbon filter cartridges in our house call for annual replacement and I wondered what was inside the big cartridge.

    Much to my surprise, the white plastic cap unscrews easily after grabbing the filter in the bench vise and applying a strap wrench:

    Whole house carbon filter - endcap
    Whole house carbon filter – endcap

    Water enters around the perimeter of the cap, flows through the media in the cylindrical cartridge, and emerges near the center at the other end. The filter is upside-down in the vise: the cap is on the bottom of the cartridge when it’s installed in the filter housing.

    The brown stuff looks a lot like sand, but is probably KDF-85 media acting as a prefilter for the carbon:

    Whole house carbon filter - prefilter
    Whole house carbon filter – prefilter

    The white fiber pad separates the KDF-85 from the carbon granules filling the rest of the filter:

    Whole house carbon filter - carbon
    Whole house carbon filter – carbon

    Atypically, I couldn’t think of anything to do with the empty cartridge, so I screwed the lid back on and lowered the whole mess into the trash can.

    Now I know what’s inside!

  • Sinking Rocks

    Sinking Rocks

    Trigger warning: trypophobia fuel.

    Spotted on the walking path near the Vassar College golf course:

    Sinking Stones - A
    Sinking Stones – A

    They’re everywhere:

    Sinking Stones - B
    Sinking Stones – B

    I think the path surface rises as it freezes, then the stones sink into the loosened soil as they warm up. Other parts of the path, generally having more loam / mulch / organic material than mud & pebbles, have an obviously raised / porous / crunchy texture on bitterly cold (by my standards) days.

    Surely, someone can pull a PhD thesis from similar observations …

  • Samsung Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning

    Samsung Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning

    The kitchen came with matched Samsung appliances dating back to 2018 and, on a frigid winter day, we piled the contents of the freezer on the porch and gave it a deep cleaning. While the empty freezer was cooling down from its adventure, I wondered:

    • Where were the condenser coils were located?
    • Did they need cleaning?
    • How does one do that?

    The manual is strangely silent about even the existence of the coils, so evidently cleaning them wasn’t of any importance to Samsung.

    Rolling the refrigerator away from the wall just enough to get the phone camera down there suggests they exist and are in need of some attention:

    Samsung refrigerator coils - first sight
    Samsung refrigerator coils – first sight

    Rolling the refrigerator out until the door handles met the countertop across the way let me climb over the counter and worm myself into the refrigerator-sized hole behind it, bringing along a screwdriver, the vacuum cleaner snout, and a few brushes.

    Removing five screws released the back cover:

    Samsung refrigerator coils - cover off
    Samsung refrigerator coils – cover off

    Looking into the intake end of those coils (on the right):

    Samsung refrigerator coils - first intake view
    Samsung refrigerator coils – first intake view

    So, yeah, I’m about to give them their first cleaning ever.

    Five minutes of brushing fuzz, mostly into the vacuum, cleared a good bit of the exterior, but the interior needs more attention:

    Samsung refrigerator coils - partial clean
    Samsung refrigerator coils – partial clean

    Ten minutes later:

    Samsung refrigerator coils - victory
    Samsung refrigerator coils – victory

    Another five minutes:

    Samsung refrigerator coils - intake cleaned
    Samsung refrigerator coils – intake cleaned

    Making the coils cleanable and putting them where they could be cleaned were obviously not bullet-item goals for Samsung’s designers.

    Although the coils are not perfectly clean, I don’t know how to get them any cleaner, despite knowing even a thin layer of fuzz kills the refrigerator’s much-touted energy efficiency. Perhaps blowing them off with compressed air, then cleaning a thin layer of dust off the entire kitchen, would help.

    I think the refrigerator will be happier, at least for a while.

  • Stack Light: Controller Wiring

    Stack Light: Controller Wiring

    A stack light above the laser cutter makes the controller’s input and output status easily visible:

    Stack Light - all on
    Stack Light – all on

    Which will be especially valuable while I’m bypassing safety interlocks and poking around inside the cabinet.

    The light is unavoidably upside-down from the industrial standard, because I can’t don’t want to mount it on the laser cabinet, and my use of color does not match the industrial convention. Neither of which matter for my simple needs.

    In order from top to bottom:

    The blue and orange lights turn on when their inputs are active, so they positively show sensor satisfaction, rather than laser-disabling dissatisfaction. The entire stack lights up while the controller runs a job with assist air turned on, which is usually the case.

    (See below for a slipstream update.)

    The wiring diagram on the case is the only documentation enclosed with the stack light:

    Stack Light - label diagram
    Stack Light – label diagram

    Any power supply between 12 VDC and 24 VDC will work and, contrary to the label, the COM lead can be either polarity: the light works in either common-anode or common-cathode configuration. Because the laser controller inputs and outputs are all low-active, I wired the COM terminal to +24 V, so pulling the other leads to GND turns on their lights.

    The overall connection diagram, in order from easy to hard:

    Stack Light - wiring diagram
    Stack Light – wiring diagram

    Some of the details behind the diagram explain what’s going on.

    Stack Light - water protect wiring diagram
    Stack Light – water protect wiring diagram

    The water flow sensor is wired in series with the chiller, with a GND connection on the far end pulling the WP controller terminal low when both sensors are happy; the switches can handle another 50 mA of LED current with no problem.

    Stack Light - L-ON wiring diagram
    Stack Light – L-ON wiring diagram

    The HV power supply has an internal pullup to +5 V on its L terminal, which means the L-ON output terminal sits at +5 V when the laser tube is off. Connecting the stack light directly to the L-ON terminal dumps the LED current into the 5 V supply through the pullup resistor, producing a somewhat weak glow in the LED when it should be off.

    Running the optoisolator input from 5 V solves that problem, as its diode will be off when the L-ON output is high. When it’s low, the diode turns on, the isolator’s output transistors conduct, and the stack light gets the full 24 V it expects.

    Stack Light - lid sensor wiring diagram
    Stack Light – lid sensor wiring diagram

    The lid sensor normally goes only to the IntLock controller terminal, but I also ran it to the otherwise unused P terminal on the HV power supply, in the possibly misguided belief it would prevent the supply from firing with the lid up if it failed like the first one. Those two inputs have 5 V pullups, so the optoisolator handles the stack light’s 24 V supply.

    Stack Light - status and assist air wiring diagram
    Stack Light – status and assist air wiring diagram

    When I added the dual-path air assist plumbing, diode D1 turned on the air pump when either the Status or the AuxAir output turned on. When the job calls for assist air, the AuxAir output opens a valve to increase the air flow.

    The Status output is active when the controller is running a job and that’s generally the only time the AuxAir output will be active, but the machine console has an Air button that manually activates it, so diode D2 isolates the Status output in that unusual situation.

    Slipstream update: I realized swapping the green & orange lights would make more sense:

    Done!