The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

OMTech 60 W Laser: Path Length Measurements

Just to see if it worked, I tried measuring the path length between the laser tube exit and various spots on the platform with a laser distance measuring tool / rangefinder:

Laser Path Length setup – distance meter

That is a reenactment based on actual events.

The trick is to put a retroreflective panel at the tube exit:

Laser Path Length setup – retroreflector

The key under the tube comes from the key switch on the front panel, which is locked in the OFF position. That way, I can’t fire the CO₂ laser without opening the rear hatch to retrieve the key, whereupon I’ll most likely notice the retroreflective target I forgot earlier.

Protip: Always set things up so you must make two mistakes before the bad thing happens. I’m certain to make one mistake, but I can generally catch myself before making the second mistake.

Then it’s just a matter of positioning the base of the rangefinder on the laser head and convincing the targeting dot to go backward through the mirrors to the retroreflector:

Laser Path Length setup – retroreflector target

Which is a reenactment with a laser pointer through Mirror 2 to Mirror 1 to the reflector. If I had a few more hands, this stuff would be way easier.

Then drive the laser head around the platform and make measurements:

Path length measurements

The distances down the left side are at the Mirror 2 entrance aperture, the rest are at the Mirror 3 entrance on the laser head. I think the measurements are within ±50 mm of the “true” path length at any given spot, because I did not jog the head to exact coordinates. The two values in the front right corner suggest ±10 mm repeatability with my slack process and cross-checking the various differences along the axes comes out reasonably close.

Don’t believe all the digits.

Doing this for real would involve figuring the offset from the Mirror 3 entrance to the HLP-200B Laser Power Meter target, then positioning the rangefinder at that point:

HLP-200B Laser Power Meter – platform center

My rangefinder (an ancient Bosch GLR_225) can use four different measurement origins; I used the default “end of the case” setting, put that end flush-ish against the mirror entrance aperture, and declared it Good Enough™.

2025-01-03
Christmas Non-Wrapped Box
Mostly to find out if I could do it:

Christmas Wrap custom box

The process:
- Fetch a printable wrapping paper pattern, ignore the watermark
- Resize / crop to fit a Letter page, print two copies on glossy photo paper
- Generate a suitable multi-sheet paper box in SVG format
- Import into LightBurn
- Rearrange / splice the parts to put the main box on one Letter size sheet and the end caps on another
- Fire The Laser to score (blue lines) and cut (red lines) the paper
- Assemble using a glue stick
- Fill with Christmasy stuff (your choice may vary)
- Tuck the flap, there’s no need to wrap!
The rearranged main box just barely fits across a Letter page:

Non-Wrapped Christmas Box – main piece – LightBurn layout

You can make many more end caps than you need:

Non-Wrapped Christmas Box – endcaps – LightBurn layout

Obviously, this makes no sense whatsoever in terms of box making, but the recipient smiled and that’s what I wanted.
2025-01-02
Blog Summary: 2024

It seems nobody else can find all the fuse boxes hidden around a Forester, either, and water heater anode rods continue to pose a challenge:

Page views – year to 2024-12-28

What is it about the Thermador heater?

Surely better cat pictures would create more traffic:

All-time Total Views – 2024-12

So I asked the WordPress AI to come up with a picture, given the minimal text in this post:

AI Generated Image for 2024 Blog Summary

The cat has approximately the right number of legs, if not toes, but what is the head in the corner?

Let’s take the rest of the day off …

2025-01-01
PrusaSlicer Scarf Joints

The release notes for PrusaSlicer 2.9 mention the addition of scarf joints on outer perimeters. Smooth joints seem like a Good Idea™, so I turned it on for comparison with a recent object:

Double Gear fidget toy – scarf vs normal

Those are flipped from the as-printed orientation: the orange ring builds upward, starting with two concentric threads on the platform.

The normal aligned joint is on the right above, with a closer look here:

Double Gear fidget toy – normal joInt

The scarf joint has a offset between layers:

Double Gear fidget toy – scarf joint

The PrusaSlicer visualization shows the effect, looking up from below the platform:

Double Gear fidget toy – scarf joint visualization

The blue PETG-CF parts have no visible seams anywhere with either setting, probably because the stuff swells slightly and obliterates any subtle differences.

Scarf joints don’t make much difference for a fidget toy, but should improve the outcome for more critical circular / spherical models.

2024-12-31
OMTech 60 W Laser: Manual Pulse Button

I want to put the HLP-200B Laser Power Meter at the tube’s exit, just upstream from Mirror 1, where it can measure the laser’s power output before the mirrors get into the act. Reaching the Pulse button on the machine console requires much longer arms than any normal human can deploy, plus a certain willingness to lean directly over a laser tube humming with 15 kV at one end.

Perusing the KT332N doc brings up a hint, blocked in red so you can make some sense of it:

KT332N Input bits

A few minutes with boxes.py produces a simple two-compartment box and a few minutes with LightBurn adds two holes:

Remote Switch Box – LightBurn layout

Another few minutes produces the box from Trocraft Eco, which is not quite thin enough for the switch (from my Box o’ Clicky Buttons) to snap into place, but a few dabs of hot melt glue hold it down:

Laser remote pulse button – installed

Double-sided foam tape sticks the box to the laser frame and the red-n-black cable snakes all the way across the back of the machine and through the electronics bay to the IN2 and GND terminals of the KT332N INPUT block:

Laser remote pulse button – Ruida KT332N wiring

With the laser head parked at a safe spot and all interlocks happy, it works:

Laser remote pulse button – demo

That is a re-enactment, because I lack sufficient dexterity to handle a phone with my left hand, poke the button with my right finger, and not damage anything important.

The general idea is to make it very difficult to inadvertently press that button: you must want to fire the laser with the tube compartment hatch up (it has no interlocks) and the control panel out of sight on the top-front of the machine.

Setting the power to 30% and putting the meter in harm’s way:

HLP-200B – Laser tube exit

Again, a reenactment based on actual events.

Five pulses later:

40.8 W
42.4
42.3
41.2
40.7
41.5 W avg
0.82 W std dev

For the record, those five pulses dumped about 5 × 42 W × 10 x ≅ 2000 W·s = 2 kJ into the meter, raising it from “chilly basement ambient” to “be careful where you hold it”, thus making the meter’s aluminum case the least-efficient handwarmer in existence.

The 30% PWM measurements at the center of the platform came out slightly lower: 38.5 W average with a sample standard deviation of 2.2 W.

The large standard deviations prevent firm conclusions, but, yeah, the power at the tube exit seems about right, before two mirrors and ≅800 mm of path length take their toll.

The LightBurn SVG layout as a GitHub Gist:

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view raw Remote Switch Box – LightBurn layout.svg hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2024-12-30
Old Silvermine Place: LED Streetlights

One of our regular walks takes us up the hill on Old Sivermine Place and, being that type of guy, I tend to look at the infrastructure. The LED streetlights along the road sit atop wood poles and are obviously retrofits. Placards on some poles announce “277 V”, which means they’re fed from one leg of a three-phase 480 V wye service, making their casual mid-air wire-nut spliced connections seem … inappropriate.

Anyhow, they’re supposed to look like this:

LED streetlight – D

In reality, having multiple emitters comes in handy:

LED streetlight – C

Typical 12 V systems have parallel strings of three LEDs in series, so you (well, I) often see automobiles with three adjacent dead LEDs. That turned out to be true with the 15 V (-ish) LEDs in the HQ Sixteen machine I’ve been refurbishing.

These streetlights apparently have individual LED drivers, allowing single LEDs to go dark without affecting the rest. This one has five deaders, so the rot is spreading:

LED streetlight – B

There seems no pattern to the failures:

LED streetlight – A

Those fixtures are in order from the top of the hill downward.

Each light has its own photosensor to decide when to turn on. We don’t go walking after dusk, but at least one light will always be glowing brightly in middday; the sensors aren’t doing well, either.

2024-12-27
Plastic Plant Signs

PrusaSlicer can recognize “things that look like logos” and process them with two different materials, so I tried it out with some plant signs:

Plant Signs – 50pct scale

They came out surprisingly well, particularly for characters with two adjacent filament threads:

Plant Signs – 50pct scale – 2-stroke

Smaller characters with single threads show more stringing, a characteristic of PETG, but it brushes off easily enough:

Plant Signs – 50pct scale – 1-stroke

While the existing text isn’t nearly as informative as real plant tags, they’re surely more durable and a chunkier font would improve both printability and readability.

I suggested Mary hand them out to any of her gardening cronies in need of a chuckle …

2024-12-26