The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Command-line CD Ripping & Encoding

    A recent and rather battered book-on-CD posed more than the usual problems for Asunder, so I finally broke down and fiddled around with cdparanoia and lame. This has obviously been done many times before, but breaking it into two simple steps per CD makes the inevitable errors easier to find and work around.

    Invoke cdparanoia thusly to rip an entire CD into separate tracks:

    cdparanoia -B -v
    

    The files pop out sporting names like track01.cdda.wav, but they won’t be around long enough for you to develop a deep emotional attachment.

    Throw a handful of parameters at lame to convert the WAV files into tagged MP3 files:

    d=7
    for t in {01..18} ; do lame --preset tape --tt "D${d}:T${t}" --ta "Author Name" --tl "Book title" --tn "${t}/18" --tg "Audio Book" --add-id3v2 track${t}.cdda.wav D${d}-${t}.mp3 ; done
    rm track*
    

    There’s surely a way to make a double substitution work in the track sequence, but the syntax, ah, escapes me at the moment.

    You might want to not delete the WAV files until you’re happy with the MP3 results.

    In any event, that produces a sequence of MP3 files imaginatively named along the lines of D1-01.mp3, which fits neatly into the cramped LCD space available on an MP3 player.

    Your quality preferences may differ…

  • Slic3r vs. Sequential 3D Printing

    The tiny posts on the fencing helmet ear grommet produced a remarkable amount of PETG hair, because the nozzle had to skip between four separate pieces on the platform at each layer:

    So I told Slic3r to build each part separately:

    Fencing helmet grommet - separate builds - first attempt
    Fencing helmet grommet – separate builds – first attempt

    Due to absolutely no forethought or planning on my part, that actually worked. Slic3r defines a cylindrical keep-out zone around the nozzle that I set to 15 mm radius and 25 mm height, but those numbers are completely wrong for the M2, particularly with a V4 hot end.

    To the rear, the nuts & bolts along the bottom of the X gantry sit 5 mm above the V4 nozzle, with the relaxed actuator on my re-relocated Z-axis home switch at Z=+1 mm:

    V4 PETG - extruder priming
    V4 PETG – extruder priming

    To the front, the bed fan doesn’t sit much higher:

    M2 V4 Extruder - 24 V fans
    M2 V4 Extruder – 24 V fans

    As it turned out, the front washers built first, sitting there in front of the gantry and behind the fan, the rear washers appeared last, and Everything Just Worked.

    However, even though the M2’s layout won’t allow for automated layout, I figured I could do it manually by building the parts from front to rear:

    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet - Slic3r layout
    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet – Slic3r layout

    That way, the already-built parts never pass under the gantry / switch. For particularly tall parts, I could remove / relocate the bed fan to clear the already-built parts as they appear.

    Come to find out that Slic3r, for whatever reason, doesn’t build the parts in the order you’d expect from the nice list on the far right side of the screen:

    Sequential Build Order - Slic3r vs Pronterface
    Sequential Build Order – Slic3r vs Pronterface

    Worse, the Slic3r 3D preview shows the threads by layer (which is what you’d expect), rather than by object for sequential builds:

    Slic3r - sequential preview vs build order
    Slic3r – sequential preview vs build order

    I don’t know how you’d force-fit a four-dimensional preview into the UI, so I won’t complain at all.

    There’s no way to tell which part will build first; selecting the part will highlight its entry in the list (and vice versa), but the order of appearance in that list doesn’t tell you where the G-Code will appear in the output file. That’s not a problem for extruders with a keep-out volume that looks like a cylinder, so there’s no reason for Slic3r to do it any differently: it will manage the extruder position to clear all the objects in any order.

    The Pronterface preview creates the objects by reading the G-Code file and displaying the threads in order, so, if you’re quick and it’s slow, you can watch the parts appear in their to-be-built order. The detailed preview (in the small window on the right in the screenshot) does show the parts in the order they will be built as you scroll upward through the “layers”, which is the only way you can tell what will happen.

    So doing sequential builds requires iterating through these steps until the right answer appears:

    •  Add all objects separately to get each one as a separate line in the list to the right
      • Using the More option to duplicate objects produces multiple objects per line = Bad Idea
    • Arrange objects in a line from front to back
    • Export G-Code file
    • Load G-Code file into Pronterface
    • Pop up the Pronterface layer preview, scroll upward to show build order, note carefully
    • Rearrange parts in Slic3r accordingly

    That’s do-able (note the different order from the Slic3r preview):

    Fencing helmet grommet - manual sequential build
    Fencing helmet grommet – manual sequential build

    But it’s tedious and enough of a pain that it probably makes no sense for anything other than parts that you absolutely can’t build any other way.

    In this case, completing each of the bottom washers separately eliminated all of the PETG hair between the small pegs. The upper washers still had some hair inside the inner cylinder, but not much. If you were fussy, you could suppress that by selecting “Avoid crossing perimeters”, at the cost of more flailing around in the XY plane.

    All those spare grommets will make a good show-n-tell exhibit…

  • Family Christmas Ride

    This doesn’t happen very often nowadays:

    The Family That Rides Together - DCRT near Parker - 2015-12-25
    The Family That Rides Together – DCRT near Parker – 2015-12-25

    That’s in the rock cut just east of the tunnel under Parker Avenue. In a normal winter, that rock wall completely shadows the asphalt and preserves an icy layer through March.

    We rode out-and-back over the Walkway, with a few digressions along the way:

    Christmas Ride 2015 - APRS track
    Christmas Ride 2015 – APRS track

    A good ride was had by all; we could get used to those empty roads…

     

  • Copper Pipe Corrosion Pinholes

    When we moved into this house, I noticed a hose clamp around the half-inch copper pipe carrying hard water to the toilets and kitchen sink:

    Hose clamp patch on copper pipe
    Hose clamp patch on copper pipe

    That’s obviously a whole bunch easier than removing and replacing a section of copper pipe, so I’d say it was entirely justified. The fact that it hasn’t leaked for at least the last quarter century counts for something.

    However, Mary recently discovered a small wet spot on the basement floor. Looking directly upward, we saw:

    Copper pipe corrosion pinhole - 1
    Copper pipe corrosion pinhole – 1

    That was in open air; I added the marks around the corrosion to highlight it.

    I’d applied some foam insulation on the supply end of the pipe and, just to check, peeled it back:

    Copper pipe corrosion pinhole - 2
    Copper pipe corrosion pinhole – 2

    Huh. Although that leak was slow enough to not leak out of the insulation (the slit was upward), disturbing the corrosion produced a regular drip. Again, those marks are new.

    OK, two active pinhole leaks and a small dry green spot further downstream says it’s finally time to replace that pipe. The lengths of pipe with the pinholes add up to about eight feet, which suggests the plumber installed a bad piece of pipe back in 1955.

    Yes, I applied two more hose clamps for the holiday season, but that can’t last.

    Having a good stock of tees, elbows, and unions on hand, all I need is 21 feet (not 20, alas) of shiny new copper pipe to replace the entire run containing all the pinholes; I’m not going to fiddle around replacing just a few sections.

  • Merry Catmas!

    Henceforth, let it never be said I have neglected my duty with respect to cat pictures:

    Cat on patio
    Cat on patio

    I left the garage door open while working outside and that critter walked calmly in, examined the offerings, walked out, and made itself comfortable on the patio. We may have a co-owner…

    Take the rest of the day off, OK?

  • Blue Gauntlet Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet

    Our Larval Engineer practiced fencing for several years, learning the fundamental truth that you should always bring a gun to a knife fight:

    Fencing - taking a hit
    Fencing – taking a hit

    It’s time to pass the gear along to someone who can use it, but we discovered one of the ear grommets inside the helmet had broken:

    Blue Gauntlet M003-BG Helmet - broken ear grommet
    Blue Gauntlet M003-BG Helmet – broken ear grommet

    The cylinder in the middle should be attached to the washer on the left, which goes inside the helmet padding. It’s a tight push fit inside the washer on the right, which goes on the outside of the padding. Ridges along the cylinder hold it in place.

    Being an injection-molded polyethylene part, no earthly adhesive or solvent will bother it, soooo… the solid model pretty much reproduces the original design:

    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet - show
    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet – show

    The top washer goes inside the padding against your (well, her) ear, so I chamfered the edges sorta-kinda like the original.

    There are no deliberate ridges on the central cylinder, but printing the parts in the obvious orientation with no additional clearance makes them a very snug push fit and the usual 3D printing ridges work perfectly; you could apply adhesive if you like. The outside washer has a slight chamfer to orient the post and get it moving along.

    The posts keep the whole affair from rotating, but I’m not sure they’re really necessary.

    Printing a pair doesn’t take much longer than just one:

    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet - build
    Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet – build

    It doesn’t look like much inside the helmet:

    Blue Gauntlet M003-BG - replacement ear grommet - installed
    Blue Gauntlet M003-BG – replacement ear grommet – installed

    The OpenSCAD source code as a gist from Github:

    // Fencing Helmet Ear Grommet
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU December 2015
    // Layout options
    Layout = "Show"; // Base Cap Build Show
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    // Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    ThreadThick = 0.20;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    NumSides = 12*4;
    $fn = NumSides;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //——————-
    // Parts
    // Base on outside of liner
    PostOD = 15.5;
    PostLength = 8.0;
    BaseOD = 26.0;
    BaseLength = 3.4;
    module Base() {
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d=BaseOD,h=2.0);
    cylinder(d=20.0,h=BaseLength);
    for (i=[0:5])
    rotate(i*360/6)
    translate([11.5,0,0])
    rotate(180/6)
    cylinder(d1=2.5,d2=3*ThreadWidth,h=4.0,$fn=6);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    // PolyCyl(PostOD,4.0,NumSides/4);
    cylinder(d=PostOD,h=PostLength,$fn=NumSides/4);
    translate([0,0,(BaseLength – 4*ThreadThick)])
    cylinder(d1=PostOD,d2=(PostOD + 2*ThreadWidth),h=(4*ThreadThick + Protrusion),$fn=NumSides/4);
    }
    }
    // Cap inside liner
    CapID = 12.0;
    CapOD = 28.0;
    CapThick = 3.0;
    module Cap() {
    difference() {
    union() {
    rotate_extrude(convexity=2)
    polygon(points=[
    [CapID/2 + CapThick/3,0.0],
    [CapOD/2 – CapThick/3,0.0],
    [CapOD/2,CapThick/2],
    [CapOD/2,CapThick],
    [CapID/2,CapThick],
    [CapID/2,CapThick – CapThick/3]
    ]);
    translate([0,0,CapThick – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d=PostOD,h=(PostLength – (CapThick – Protrusion)),$fn=NumSides/4);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    PolyCyl(CapID,10.0,$fn);
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it!
    if (Layout == "Base")
    Base();
    if (Layout == "Cap")
    Cap();
    BuildSpace = 30/2;
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    for (j=[-1,1])
    translate([j*BuildSpace,0,0]) {
    translate([0,-BuildSpace,0])
    Base();
    translate([0,BuildSpace,0])
    Cap();
    }
    }
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    color("LightGreen") Base();
    translate([0,0,12])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    color("LightBlue") Cap();
    }

  • Kenmore Progressive Vacuum Cleaner vs. Classic Electrolux Dust Brush

    Vacuum cleaner dust brushes, separated by millimeters and decades:

    Kenmore vs adapted Electrolux dust brushes
    Kenmore vs adapted Electrolux dust brushes

    The bulky one on the left came with our new Kenmore Progressive vacuum cleaner. It’s fine for dust on a flat horizontal or vertical surface and totally useless for dust on actual objects. It’s supposed to snap around the handle at the end of the cleaner’s flexy hose, where it helps make the entire assembly too large and too clumsy, or on the end of the “wand”, where it’s at the wrong angle. The bonus outer shell slides around the stubby bristles in the unlikely event they’re too long for the flat surface at hand.

    The brush on the right emerged from the Box o’ Electrolux Parts that Came With The House™, must be half a century old, and consists of a cast aluminum lump with various holes milled into it, adorned with luxuriously long and flexible horsehair. Suffice it to say they don’t make ’em like that any more. Heck, they probably don’t make horses with hair like that any more, either.

    The blue plastic adapter atop the aluminum ball looks like you’d expect by now:

    Electrolux Brush Adapter
    Electrolux Brush Adapter

    The short snout fits neatly into the space available inside the ball. The abrupt ledge at the top of the snout, of course, didn’t work well; I rushed the design for a show-n-tell.

    The OpenSCAD source code (as a Github gist) bevels that ledge and tweaks the interior air channel a bit:

    // Kenmore vacuum cleaner nozzle adapters
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU December 2015
    // Layout options
    Layout = "LuxBrush"; // MaleFitting CoilWand FloorBrush CreviceTool ScrubbyTool LuxBrush
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    // Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    ID1 = 0; // for tapered tubes
    ID2 = 1;
    OD1 = 2;
    OD2 = 3;
    LENGTH = 4;
    OEMTube = [35.0,35.0,41.7,40.5,30.0]; // main fitting tube
    EndStop = [OEMTube[ID1],OEMTube[ID2],47.5,47.5,6.5]; // flange at end of main tube
    FittingOAL = OEMTube[LENGTH] + EndStop[LENGTH];
    $fn = 12*4;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //——————-
    // Male fitting on end of Kenmore tools
    // This slides into the end of the handle or wand and latches firmly in place
    module MaleFitting() {
    Latch = [40,11.5,5.0]; // rectangle latch opening
    EntryAngle = 45; // latch entry ramp
    EntrySides = 16;
    EntryHeight = 15.0; // lower edge on *inside* of fitting
    KeyRadius = 1.0;
    translate([0,0,6.5])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=OEMTube[OD1],d2=OEMTube[OD2],h=OEMTube[LENGTH]); // main tube
    hull() // insertion guide
    for (i=[-(6.0/2 – KeyRadius),(6.0/2 – KeyRadius)],
    j=[-(28.0/2 – KeyRadius),(28.0/2 – KeyRadius)],
    k=[-(26.0/2 – KeyRadius),(26.0/2 – KeyRadius)])
    translate([(i – (OEMTube[ID1]/2 + OEMTube[OD1]/2)/2 + 6.0/2),j,(k + 26.0/2 – 1.0)])
    sphere(r=KeyRadius,$fn=8);
    translate([0,0,-EndStop[LENGTH]]) // wand tube butts against this
    cylinder(d=EndStop[OD1],h=EndStop[LENGTH] + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-OEMTube[LENGTH]]) // main bore
    cylinder(d=OEMTube[ID1],h=2*OEMTube[LENGTH] + 2*Protrusion);
    translate([0,-11.5/2,23.0 – 5.0]) // latch opening
    cube(Latch);
    translate([OEMTube[ID1]/2 + EntryHeight/tan(90-EntryAngle),0,0]) // latch ramp
    translate([(Latch[1]/cos(180/EntrySides))*cos(EntryAngle)/2,0,(Latch[1]/cos(180/EntrySides))*sin(EntryAngle)/2])
    rotate([0,-EntryAngle,0])
    intersection() {
    rotate(180/EntrySides)
    PolyCyl(Latch[1],Latch[0],EntrySides);
    translate([-(2*Latch[0])/2,0,-Protrusion])
    cube(2*Latch[0],center=true);
    }
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Refrigerator evaporator coil wand
    module CoilWand() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,50.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=42.0,h=50.0);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=35.0,d2=35.8,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,50.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Refrigerator evaporator coil wand
    module FloorBrush() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=32.4,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=32.4,d2=30.7,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=28.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Crevice tool
    module CreviceTool() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=32.0,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=32.0,d2=30.4,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=28.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Mystery brush
    module ScrubbyTool() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,60.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=31.8,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=31.8,d2=31.0,h=50.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=26.0,d2=24.0,h=100);
    }
    translate([0,0,60.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //——————-
    // Electrolux brush ball
    module LuxBrush() {
    union() {
    translate([0,0,30.0])
    rotate([180,0,0])
    difference() {
    union() {
    cylinder(d1=EndStop[OD1],d2=30.8,h=10.0);
    translate([0,0,10.0 – Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=30.8,d2=30.0,h=20.0 + Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    cylinder(d1=25.0,d2=23.0,h=30 + 2*Protrusion);
    }
    translate([0,0,30.0 – Protrusion])
    MaleFitting();
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it!
    if (Layout == "MaleFitting")
    MaleFitting();
    if (Layout == "CoilWand")
    CoilWand();
    if (Layout == "FloorBrush")
    FloorBrush();
    if (Layout == "CreviceTool")
    CreviceTool();
    if (Layout == "ScrubbyTool")
    ScrubbyTool();
    if (Layout == "LuxBrush")
    LuxBrush();

    That’s  supposed to prevent the WordPress post editors from destroying the formatting…