The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Vacuum Tube LEDs: Now With Morse Code

    Adding Mark Fickett’s non-blocking Morse Arduino library turns the tubes into transmitters:

    21HB5A on platter - orange green
    21HB5A on platter – orange green

    The plate cap LED blinks the message in orange, while both LEDs continue to slowly change color as before.

    You define a Morse sender object (C++, yo!) by specifying its output pin and code speed in words per minute, dump a string into it, then call a continuation function fast enough to let it twiddle the output bit for each pulse. Obviously, the rate at which the callback happens determines the timing granularity.

    However, setting a knockoff Neopixel to a given color requires more than just a binary signal on an output pin. The continuation function returns false when it’s done with the message, after which you can initialize and send another message. There’s no obvious (to me, anyhow) way to get timing information out of the code.

    The easiest solution: called the Morse continuation function at the top of the main loop, read its output pin to determine when a dit or dah is active, then set the plate cap color accordingly:

    LEDMorseSender Morse(PIN_MORSE, (float)MORSE_WPM);
    ...
    Morse.setup();
    Morse.setMessage(String("       cq cq cq de ke4znu       "));
    PrevMorse = ThisMorse = digitalRead(PIN_MORSE);
    ...
    if (!Morse.continueSending()) {
      Morse.startSending();
    }
    ThisMorse = digitalRead(PIN_MORSE);
    ...
    if (ThisMorse) {             // if Morse output high, overlay
        strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_MORSE,MorseColor);
    }
    PrevMorse = ThisMorse;
    strip.show();               // send out precomputed colors
    ...
    <<compute colors for next iteration as usual>>
    

    I use the Entropy library to seed the PRNG, then pick three prime numbers for the sine wave periods (with an ugly hack to avoid matching periods):

    uint32_t rn = Entropy.random();
    ...
    randomSeed(rn);
    ...
    
    Pixels[RED].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    
    do {
      Pixels[GREEN].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    } while (Pixels[RED].Prime == Pixels[GREEN].Prime);
    
    do {
      Pixels[BLUE].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    } while (Pixels[BLUE].Prime == Pixels[RED].Prime ||
            Pixels[BLUE].Prime == Pixels[GREEN].Prime);
    
    printf("Primes: (%d,%d,%d)\r\n",Pixels[RED].Prime,Pixels[GREEN].Prime,Pixels[BLUE].Prime);
    

    In the spirit of “Video or it didn’t happen”: YouTube!

    The Arduino source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Neopixel mood lighting for vacuum tubes
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ANU – June 2016
    // September 2016 – Add Morse library and blinkiness
    #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
    #include <morse.h>
    #include <Entropy.h>
    //———-
    // Pin assignments
    const byte PIN_NEO = A3; // DO – data out to first Neopixel
    const byte PIN_HEARTBEAT = 13; // DO – Arduino LED
    #define PIN_MORSE 12
    //———-
    // Constants
    #define PIXELS 2
    #define PIXEL_MORSE 1
    #define MORSE_WPM 10
    #define UPDATEINTERVAL 50ul
    const unsigned long UpdateMS = UPDATEINTERVAL – 1ul; // update LEDs only this many ms apart (minus loop() overhead)
    // number of steps per cycle, before applying prime factors
    #define RESOLUTION 250
    // want to randomize the startup a little?
    #define RANDOMIZE true
    //———-
    // Globals
    // instantiate the Neopixel buffer array
    Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(PIXELS, PIN_NEO, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
    uint32_t FullWhite = strip.Color(255,255,255);
    uint32_t FullOff = strip.Color(0,0,0);
    uint32_t MorseColor = strip.Color(255,191,0);
    struct pixcolor_t {
    byte Prime;
    unsigned int NumSteps;
    unsigned int Step;
    float StepSize;
    byte MaxPWM;
    };
    unsigned int PlatterSteps;
    byte PrimeList[] = {3,5,7,13,19,29};
    // colors in each LED
    enum pixcolors {RED, GREEN, BLUE, PIXELSIZE};
    struct pixcolor_t Pixels[PIXELSIZE]; // all the data for each pixel color intensity
    uint32_t UniColor;
    unsigned long MillisNow;
    unsigned long MillisThen;
    // Morse code
    LEDMorseSender Morse(PIN_MORSE, (float)MORSE_WPM);
    uint8_t PrevMorse, ThisMorse;
    //– Figure PWM based on current state
    byte StepColor(byte Color, float Phi) {
    byte Value;
    Value = (Pixels[Color].MaxPWM / 2.0) * (1.0 + sin(Pixels[Color].Step * Pixels[Color].StepSize + Phi));
    // Value = (Value) ? Value : Pixels[Color].MaxPWM; // flash at dimmest points
    return Value;
    }
    //– Helper routine for printf()
    int s_putc(char c, FILE *t) {
    Serial.write(c);
    }
    //——————
    // Set the mood
    void setup() {
    pinMode(PIN_HEARTBEAT,OUTPUT);
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW); // show we arrived
    Serial.begin(57600);
    fdevopen(&s_putc,0); // set up serial output for printf()
    printf("Vacuum Tube Mood Light\r\nEd Nisley – KE4ZNU – September 2016\r\n");
    Entropy.initialize(); // start up entropy collector
    // set up Neopixels
    strip.begin();
    strip.show();
    // lamp test: a brilliant white flash
    printf("Lamp test: flash white\r\n");
    for (byte i=0; i<3 ; i++) {
    for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with white
    strip.setPixelColor(j,FullWhite);
    }
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill LEDs with black
    strip.setPixelColor(j,FullOff);
    }
    strip.show();
    delay(500);
    }
    // set up real random numbers
    uint32_t rn = Entropy.random();
    if (RANDOMIZE) {
    printf("Preloading LED array with seed: %08lx\r\n",rn);
    randomSeed(rn);
    }
    else {
    printf("Start not randomized\r\n");
    }
    printf("First random number: %ld\r\n",random(10));
    // set up the color generators
    Pixels[RED].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    do {
    Pixels[GREEN].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    } while (Pixels[RED].Prime == Pixels[GREEN].Prime);
    do {
    Pixels[BLUE].Prime = PrimeList[random(sizeof(PrimeList))];
    } while (Pixels[BLUE].Prime == Pixels[RED].Prime ||
    Pixels[BLUE].Prime == Pixels[GREEN].Prime);
    printf("Primes: (%d,%d,%d)\r\n",Pixels[RED].Prime,Pixels[GREEN].Prime,Pixels[BLUE].Prime);
    Pixels[RED].MaxPWM = 255;
    Pixels[GREEN].MaxPWM = 255;
    Pixels[BLUE].MaxPWM = 255;
    for (byte c=0; c < PIXELSIZE; c++) {
    Pixels[c].NumSteps = RESOLUTION * (unsigned int) Pixels[c].Prime;
    Pixels[c].Step = RANDOMIZE ? random(Pixels[c].NumSteps) : (3*Pixels[c].NumSteps)/4;
    Pixels[c].StepSize = TWO_PI / Pixels[c].NumSteps; // in radians per step
    printf("c: %d Steps: %d Init: %d",c,Pixels[c].NumSteps,Pixels[c].Step);
    printf(" PWM: %d\r\n",Pixels[c].MaxPWM);
    }
    // set up Morse generator
    printf("Morse %d wpm\n",MORSE_WPM);
    Morse.setup();
    Morse.setMessage(String(" cq cq cq de ke4znu "));
    PrevMorse = ThisMorse = digitalRead(PIN_MORSE);
    MillisNow = MillisThen = millis();
    }
    //——————
    // Run the mood
    void loop() {
    if (!Morse.continueSending()) {
    Morse.startSending();
    }
    ThisMorse = digitalRead(PIN_MORSE);
    MillisNow = millis();
    if (((MillisNow – MillisThen) > UpdateMS) || // time for color change?
    (PrevMorse != ThisMorse)) { // Morse output bit changed?
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,HIGH);
    if (ThisMorse) { // if Morse output high, overlay
    strip.setPixelColor(PIXEL_MORSE,MorseColor);
    }
    PrevMorse = ThisMorse;
    strip.show(); // send out precomputed colors
    for (byte c=0; c < PIXELSIZE; c++) { // compute next increment for each color
    if (++Pixels[c].Step >= Pixels[c].NumSteps) {
    Pixels[c].Step = 0;
    printf("Cycle %d steps %d at %8ld delta %ld ms\r\n",c,Pixels[c].NumSteps,MillisNow,(MillisNow – MillisThen));
    }
    }
    byte Value[PIXELSIZE];
    for (byte c=0; c < PIXELSIZE; c++) { // … for each color
    Value[c] = StepColor(c,0.0); // figure new PWM value
    }
    UniColor = strip.Color(Value[RED],Value[GREEN],Value[BLUE]);
    for (int j=0; j < strip.numPixels(); j++) { // fill all LEDs with color
    strip.setPixelColor(j,UniColor);
    }
    MillisThen = MillisNow;
    digitalWrite(PIN_HEARTBEAT,LOW);
    }
    }
    view raw TubeMorse.ino hosted with ❤ by GitHub
  • Makergear M2: Spring-Loaded Extruder Feed Gear

    When I installed the new fine-tooth filament drive gear (wheel, whatever) in the M2, I ran some numbers that suggested replacing the fixed-position screw with a (more-or-less-)constant-force spring. Some recent discussions on the M2 forum suggest, at least to me, that the drive gear is, indeed, less forgiving of filament diameter variations, drive housing wear, and suchlike than the chunkier old gear.

    Having recently bought an assortment of longer M4 screws, I finally got around to installing an appropriate spring from the Big Box o’ Springs and another washer to capture it:

    Makergear M2 - spring-loaded filament drive
    Makergear M2 – spring-loaded filament drive

    Before doing anything, I measured the gap between the filament drive body (on the left) and the lever arm (on the right) holding the idler bearing: 21 mil = 0.53 mm.

    I don’t have a number for the spring constant; it’s rather stiff.

    After installing the spring, I cranked the screw to restore the same gap as before, which should mean the spring is exerting roughly the same force on the arm as the fixed-position screw.

    The general idea: the spring allows the flexible arm to move as the filament diameter changes, while maintaining roughly the same pressure on the drive gear, thus producing nearly the same depth-of-engagement grooves in the filament. Maintaining “the same pressure” requires the motion to be relatively small compared to the spring preload distance, which seems reasonable with ±0.1 mm diameter variations and maybe 5 mm of preload.

    The new filament drive gear hasn’t ever stripped out (after that initial finger fumble), so this will be more of a test to verify that the spring doesn’t make the situation worse.

  • Rewiring a Baofeng Battery Eliminator

    An aftermarket “battery eliminator” for Baofeng UV-5R radios costs under seven bucks delivered:

    Baofeng Battery Eliminator - overview
    Baofeng Battery Eliminator – overview

    That label seemed … odd:

    Baofeng Battery Eliminator - Li-ion Label
    Baofeng Battery Eliminator – Li-ion Label

    The OEM battery, tucked inside a case that’s for all intents and purposes identical to this one, sports an 1800 mA·h rating that I regarded as mmmm optimistic; I’d expect maybe 1000 mA·h, tops. From what I can tell, the 3800 mA·h label should go on an extended-capacity “big” battery that wraps around the bottom of the radio. Maybe the factory produced a pallet of mis-labeled small packs that they couldn’t fob off on actual customers with a straight face and couldn’t justify the labor to peel-and-stick the proper labels.

    Anyhow, it’s not a battery.

    The circuitry inside shows considerably more fit & finish than I expected:

    Baofeng Battery Eliminator - interior
    Baofeng Battery Eliminator – interior

    It’s not clear how effective that heatsink could be, given that it’s trapped inside a compact plastic enclosure snugged against the radio’s metal chassis, but it’s a nice touch. Two layers of foam tape anchor the terminals at the top and hold the heatsink / LM7808-class TO-220 regulator in place.

    Although I wanted the DC input to come from the side, rather than the bottom, so the radio could stand up, the pack simply isn’t thick enough to accommodate the jack in that orientation. I drilled out the existing wire hole to fit a coaxial power plug and deployed my own foam tape:

    Baofeng Battery Eliminator - rewired interior
    Baofeng Battery Eliminator – rewired interior

    Replacing the foam tape at the top holds the bent-brass (?) terminals in more-or-less the proper orientation, with Genuine 3M / Scotch Plaid adding a festive touch. A groove in the other half of the shell captures the free ends of those terminals, so they’re not flopping around in mid-air.

    The jack fits an old-school 7.5 V transformer wall wart that produces 11 V open-circuit. It’s probably still a bit too high with the UV-5R’s minimal receive-only load, but I refuse to worry.

    Now KE4ZNU-10 won’t become a lithium fire in the attic stairwell…

    While I had the hood up, I used Chirp to gut the radio’s stored frequencies / channels / memories and set 144.39 in Memory 0 as the only non-zero value. With a bit of luck, that will prevent it from crashing and jamming a randomly chosen frequency outside the amateur bands…

  • Pi Measuring Tape

    This clearly demonstrates that the world is even more weird than I imagined (clicky for more dots):

    Pi Tape
    Pi Tape

    I don’t measure that many big cylinders that I can’t figure out their diameter by hand.

    The prices suggest folks who need Pi Tapes need them bad.

  • Too Many Deer, Twice More

    We spotted a classic example of deer damage at the corner gas / repair station:

    Deer-smashed car
    Deer-smashed car

    The undamaged bumper below the smashed grill and hood is diagnostic; the legs bounce off the bumper, while the body punches the grill back through the radiator. The airbags didn’t fire, but I’m pretty sure that car is just as dead as the deer.

    Plenty of deer-colored fur clinches the diagnosis:

    Deer-smashed car - hair detail
    Deer-smashed car – hair detail

    A few days later, a vulture overflew me on Hooker Avenue:

    Vulture - 2016-09-25 - Hooker Ave
    Vulture – 2016-09-25 – Hooker Ave

    It was flapping strongly, powering its way up to cruising altitude, which seemed odd that far into the urban heat island. On the return leg of the ride, I saw what had its attention:

    Deer carcass - 2016-09-25 - Hooker Ave
    Deer carcass – 2016-09-25 – Hooker Ave

    All swoll up, as the saying goes, and ready for the carcass disposal crew…

  • More Cheap eBay Hardware Failures

    Data points…

    Another knockoff Neopixel failed in the usual way, after a few days of operation: the first W2812B chip in the string gave off intermittent and random flashes of pure primary colors, the second was dead in the water. Replacing the first chip with Yet Another Knockoff from the same lot restored the tube to good health.

    Some oscilloscope probing revealed a pooched serial data output with no active pullup, so the output data rarely exceeded VCC/2 and generally wouldn’t be accepted by the downstream W2812B. Nothing to show for it, as I couldn’t be bothered to upload a scope shot. Maybe next time.

    One of the counterfeit FTDI USB-to-serial adapters in another tube base failed after a few weeks of operation, with symptoms ranging from hangs while downloading the Arduino program to readback verify mismatches. Replacing the failed adapter and the knockoff Arduino Pro Mini with a knockoff Arduino Nano (using a CH340 USB interface, presumably not a counterfeit) from a recently arrived envelope restored that tube to good health.

    All in all, those knockoff Neopixels have been a constant source of amusement; worth every penny just for the privilege of holding them up for ridicule. The “genuine” FTDI chips weren’t much of a surprise, but I am mildly surprised they work so poorly.

  • Vacuum Tube LEDs: Improved Sockets

    All the sockets now sport channels in the bottom to capture the braid to the plate cap (whether or not the tube has a plate cap) and the wiring from the Arduino:

    Vacuum Tube Lights - Octal Socket - solid model
    Vacuum Tube Lights – Octal Socket – solid model

    The Slic3r preview shows the detail a bit better:

    Vaccum Tube Lights - Octal Socket - Slic3r preview
    Vaccum Tube Lights – Octal Socket – Slic3r preview

    The boss around the pins is now 25 mm OD and snaps neatly into the unpunched hub hole of a hard drive platter:

    0D3 Octal - 25 mm socket OD in platter
    0D3 Octal – 25 mm socket OD in platter

    I moved the mounting holes to 42 mm OC to give the button heads on those screws a bit more clearance from the base.

    Moving the knockoff Neopixel up to the top of the pipe leading to the tube base dramatically increases the amount of light going into the tube envelope:

    0D3 Octal - 25 mm socket - raised LED
    0D3 Octal – 25 mm socket – raised LED

    You can just barely see a strip of foam tape holding the LED PCB (loosely) into the too-large hole.

    The OpenSCAD source code also produces the improved base clamp; to get a socket, just set Layout = "Socket" and away you go. It doesn’t yet have the reduced-diameter hole down the middle; that’s in the nature of fine tuning.