The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Author: Ed

  • Tour Easy Front Fender Clip

    We rode the Feeder Canal trail during a recent bike vacation in exotic Glens Falls NY:

    Feeder Canal Park Trail - Branches
    Feeder Canal Park Trail – Branches

    The numerous downed branches along the trail and countless twigs on the trail came from a brush-clearing operation:

    Feeder Canal Park Trail - Brush Clearing
    Feeder Canal Park Trail – Brush Clearing

    As luck would have it, a twig snagged between my front tire and fender, snapping the clips holding the fender in place:

     

    Tour Easy front fender mount breakage
    Tour Easy front fender mount breakage

    Should it not be obvious, each ferrule formerly had two parallel jaws (on the left) gripping the fender, with the tiny screw digging into the fender. I affixed the fender to the broken clips with copious amounts of duct tape and we continued the mission.

    It should be obvious why those ferrules are not suitable for 3D printing.

    However, with the recent rear fender clip serving as inspiration, this didn’t take long:

    Tour Easy - Front Fender Clip - Slic3r
    Tour Easy – Front Fender Clip – Slic3r

    The front fender fits a 20 inch wheel and is somewhat wider and flatter than the rear fender (I think they bent the same plastic strip around a smaller mandrel), so I did a quick copy-and-paste hack job on the OpenSCAD source code, rather than trying to parameterize the daylights out of the previous model.

    The posts around the wire stays are 6 diameters deep and reamed to fit; the stays won’t be flopping around even without fiddly mechanical hardware retaining them. The holes extend about halfway into those posts to mimic the dimensions of the original ferrules.

    All of us can predict where the next break will occur, right? That’s OK: I want this to break, instead of wrecking the fender, so the only question is how much abuse those simple joints can withstand. The printing orientation wraps the perimeter threads from the posts around the clip, making it about a strong as it can be.

    The ferrules should splay outward by a few degrees to match the angle from the fender to the fork eyelets, but that’s in the nature of fine tuning.

    The arch accommodates a strip of double-sided foam tape holding the clip in place along the fender curve, with those cute little hooks capturing the fender to keep the tape in compression:

    Tour Easy Front Fender Clip - installed
    Tour Easy Front Fender Clip – installed

    I really must get some black foam tape …

    The picture shows the fender sitting well away from the tire, due to the upper fender mount bending in response to the splash flap snagging on curbs and random debris; the wire stays didn’t seat completely into the posts.

    The extender I made during the cracked fork episode remained perfectly straight, though:

    Tour Easy - new fork - fender extender
    Tour Easy – new fork – fender extender

    So I re-bent the upper fender mount (not the extender!) to its original angle, thereby moving the bottom of the fender much closer to the tire. Now the stays seat fully, the clip holds the fender firmly in place with no rattles, and it’s all good.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Tour Easy front fender clip
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU April 2017
    Layout = "Clip"; // Build Profile Ferrule Clip
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    // special case: fender is exactly half a circle!
    FenderC = 51.0; // fender outside width = chord
    FenderM = 21.0; // height of chord
    FenderR = (pow(FenderM,2) + pow(FenderC,2)/4) / (2 * FenderM); // radius
    echo(str("Fender radius: ", FenderR));
    FenderD = 2*FenderR;
    FenderA = 2 * asin(FenderC / (2*FenderR));
    echo(str(" … arc: ",FenderA," deg"));
    FenderThick = 2.5; // fender thickness, assume dia of edge
    ClipHeight = 15.0; // top to bottom, ignoring rakish tilt
    ClipThick = 3.0; // thickness of clip around fender
    ClipD = FenderD; // ID of clip against
    ClipSides = 4 * 8; // polygon sides around clip circle
    BendReliefD = 2.5; // bend arch diameter
    BendReliefA = 2/3 * FenderA/2; // … angle from dead ahead
    BendReliefCut = 1.0; // factor to thin outside of bend
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    StayDia = 3.3; // fender stay rod diameter
    StayOffset = 23.0; // stay-to-fender distance
    StayAngle = -5; // angle from stay to fender
    FerruleSides = 2*4;
    Ferrule = [StayDia,3*FenderThick/cos(180/FerruleSides),6*StayDia + StayOffset]; // ID = stay rod OD
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    $fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Clip profile around fender
    // Centered on fender arc
    module Profile(HeightScale = 1) {
    linear_extrude(height=HeightScale*ClipHeight,convexity=5) {
    difference() {
    offset(r=ClipThick) // outside of clip
    union() {
    circle(d=ClipD,$fn=ClipSides);
    for (i=[-1,1])
    rotate(i*BendReliefA) {
    translate([ClipD/2 + BendReliefD/2,0,0])
    circle(d=BendReliefD,$fn=6);
    }
    }
    union() { // inside of clip
    circle(d=ClipD,$fn=ClipSides);
    for (i=[-1,1])
    rotate(i*BendReliefA) {
    translate([ClipD/2 + BendReliefCut*BendReliefD/2,0,0])
    circle(d=BendReliefD/cos(180/6),$fn=6);
    translate([ClipD/2,0,0])
    square([BendReliefCut*BendReliefD,BendReliefD],center=true);
    }
    }
    translate([(FenderR – FenderM – FenderD/2),0]) // trim ends
    square([FenderD,2*FenderD],center=true);
    }
    for (a=[-1,1]) // hooks around fender
    rotate(a*(FenderA/2))
    translate([FenderR – FenderThick/2,0]) {
    difference() {
    rotate(1*180/12)
    circle(d=FenderThick + 2*ClipThick,$fn=12);
    rotate(1*180/8)
    circle(d=FenderThick,$fn=8);
    rotate(a * -90)
    translate([0,-2*FenderThick,0])
    square(4*FenderThick,center=false);
    }
    }
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Ferrule body
    module FerruleBody() {
    translate([0,0,Ferrule[OD]/2 * cos(180/FerruleSides)])
    rotate([0,-90,0]) rotate(180/FerruleSides)
    difference() {
    cylinder(d=Ferrule[OD],h=Ferrule[LENGTH],$fn=FerruleSides,center=false);
    translate([0,0,StayOffset + Protrusion])
    PolyCyl(Ferrule[ID],Ferrule[LENGTH] – StayOffset + Protrusion,FerruleSides);
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Generate entire clip at mounting angle
    module FenderClip() {
    union() {
    translate([FenderR,0,0])
    difference() { // angle and trim clip
    rotate([0,StayAngle,0])
    translate([-(FenderR + ClipThick),0,0])
    Profile(2); // scale upward for trimming
    translate([0,0,-ClipHeight]) // trim bottom
    cube(2*[FenderD,FenderD,ClipHeight],center=true);
    translate([0,0,ClipHeight*cos(StayAngle)+ClipHeight]) // trim top
    cube(2*[FenderD,FenderD,ClipHeight],center=true);
    }
    for (j = [-1,1])
    translate([Ferrule[OD]*sin(StayAngle),j*(FenderR – FenderThick + FenderThick/2),0])
    FerruleBody();
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    if (Layout == "Profile") {
    Profile();
    }
    if (Layout == "Ferrule") {
    FerruleBody();
    }
    if (Layout == "Clip") {
    FenderClip();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    FenderClip();
    }

     

     

  • Microscope 60 LED Ring Light Adapter

    The Barbie-themed microscope light I built from an angel eye LED ring worked fine for the last six years (!), but a much brighter ring with 60 aimed 5 mm LEDs for $17 delivered from a US seller caught my eye:

    Microscope 60 LED ring light - in use
    Microscope 60 LED ring light – in use

    Although this ring looks much more professional, it didn’t quite fit the microscope, being designed for a round snout rather than a squarish one. This snout has a 47-ish mm threaded ring intended for filters & suchlike, so I built an adapter between that and the 60 mm ID of the LED ring:

    Microscope 60 LED Ring Light Adapter - top - Slic3r
    Microscope 60 LED Ring Light Adapter – top – Slic3r

    The ring came with three long knurled screws which I replaced with much tidier M3 socket-head screws going into those holes:

    Microscope 60 LED ring light - assembled - top
    Microscope 60 LED ring light – assembled – top

    The part going into the snout threads is deliberately (honest!) a bit small, so I could wrap it with soft tape for a good friction fit. The Barbie Ring didn’t weigh anything and I wound up using squares of double-sticky foam tape; it could come to that for this ring, too.

    The adapter features a taper on the bottom for no particularly good reason, as the field-of-view tapers inward, not outward:

    Microscope 60 LED Ring Light Adapter - bottom - Slicer
    Microscope 60 LED Ring Light Adapter – bottom – Slicer

    Seen from the bug’s POV, it’s a rather impressive spectacle:

    Microscope 60 LED ring light - assembled - bottom
    Microscope 60 LED ring light – assembled – bottom

    The control box sports a power switch and a brightness knob. Come to find out the ring is actually too bright at full throttle; a nice problem to have.

    That was easy!

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // LED Ring Light Mount – 60 mm ID ring
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU April 2017
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    ScopeThread = [43.0,46.5,4.0]; // scope snout thread, ID = minimum invisible
    LEDRing = [ScopeThread[ID],60.0,8.0];
    LEDScrewOffset = 4.0;
    LEDScrewOD = 3.0;
    LEDScrews = 3;
    OAH = ScopeThread[LENGTH] + LEDRing[LENGTH];
    NumSides = 3*4*LEDScrews; // get symmetry for screws
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    difference() {
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    union() {
    cylinder(d=ScopeThread[OD],h=OAH,$fn=NumSides);
    cylinder(d=LEDRing[OD],h=LEDRing[LENGTH],$fn=NumSides);
    }
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    cylinder(d=ScopeThread[ID],h=OAH + 2*Protrusion,$fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    rotate(180/NumSides)
    cylinder(d1=LEDRing[OD] – 2*6*ThreadWidth,
    d2=ScopeThread[ID],
    h=LEDRing[LENGTH] + Protrusion,$fn=NumSides);
    for (i=[0:LEDScrews-1])
    rotate(i*360/LEDScrews)
    translate([LEDRing[OD]/2 – LEDScrewOD,0,LEDRing[LENGTH] – LEDScrewOffset])
    rotate([0,90,0]) rotate(180/6)
    cylinder(d=LEDScrewOD,h=LEDScrewOD + Protrusion,$fn=6);
    }

     

  • Cylindrical Cell Adapters

    An octet of Eneloop AAA cells arrived, I wanted to measure their as-delivered charge (the package says “Factory Charged With SOLAR ENERGY”, so you know it’s good), and discovered I’d given away my AAA cell holders. You can actually get inter-series adapters on eBay, but what’s the fun in that? Plus, I didn’t want to delay gratification for a month; you know how it is.

    Soooo:

    AAA to AA Adapter - top - Slic3r
    AAA to AA Adapter – top – Slic3r

    It’s basically an AA-size sleeve that fits over the AAA cell, with a lathe-turned brass post conducting juice from the + terminal of the inner cell outward:

    AAA to AA Adapter - parts
    AAA to AA Adapter – parts

    Not much to look at when it’s assembled:

    AAA to AA Adapter - assembled
    AAA to AA Adapter – assembled

    The AAA cell fits deliberately loose, because this goes into a metal clip holding everything firmly in place for the battery tester:

    AAA to AA Adapter - in use
    AAA to AA Adapter – in use

    The source code tabulates the sizes of several cylindrical cells, exactly zero other pairs of which have been tested; I expect most won’t work correctly. In particular, the table entries should include the contact button OD and thickness for each cell, so that I can turn out the proper terminal for each pair of cells. If I ever need a different adapter, I’ll beat some cooperation out of that, too.

    Discovered I needed an adapter after breakfast, started testing cells after lunch. Life is good!

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Cylindrical cell adapters
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU April 2017
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 0.40;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
    inch = 25.4;
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    //———————-
    // Dimensions
    OutCell = "AA"; // cell sizes
    InCell = "AAA";
    BottomClear = 3*ThreadThick; // shorten outer shell to allow base protrusion
    Terminal = [3.0,4.0,2.0]; // terminal: OD = nub dia, length = nub thickness
    NAME = 0;
    ID = 0; // for non-cell cylinders
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    Cells = [
    ["AAAA",8.3,42.5],
    ["AAA",10.5,44.5],
    ["AA",14.5,50.5],
    ["C",26.2,50],
    ["D",34.2,61.5],
    ["A23",10.3,28.5],
    ["CR123",17.0,34.5],
    ["18650",18.6,65.2]
    ];
    Outer = search([OutCell],Cells,1,0)[0];
    Inner = search([InCell],Cells,1,0)[0];
    echo(str("Outer cell: ",Cells[Outer][NAME]));
    echo(str("Inner cell: ",Cells[Inner][NAME]));
    echo(str("Wall: ",Cells[Outer][OD] – (Cells[Inner][OD]/cos(180/NumSides) + 2*ThreadWidth)));
    Delta = Cells[Outer][LENGTH] – Cells[Inner][LENGTH];
    echo(str("Terminal OAL: ",Delta));
    echo(str(" … head: ",Terminal[LENGTH]));
    echo(str(" … shaft: ",Delta – Terminal[LENGTH]));
    NumSides = 3*4;
    //———————-
    // Useful routines
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) { // based on nophead's polyholes
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,h=Height,$fn=Sides);
    }
    //———————-
    // Construct adapter
    module Adapter() {
    difference() {
    cylinder(d=Cells[Outer][OD],
    h=Cells[Outer][LENGTH] – BottomClear – Terminal[LENGTH],
    $fn=NumSides);
    translate([0,0,Delta – Terminal[LENGTH]])
    PolyCyl(Cells[Inner][OD] + 2*ThreadWidth,
    Cells[Inner][LENGTH] + Protrusion,
    NumSides);
    translate([0,0,-Protrusion])
    PolyCyl(Terminal[ID],
    2*Cells[Outer][LENGTH],
    6);
    }
    }
    //———————-
    // Build it
    Adapter();

    The original doodle:

    AAA to AA Adapter - sketch
    AAA to AA Adapter – sketch
  • Some Things Last: 100 W Incandescent Bulb

    The light switch for our attic turns on a single ceramic socket at the top of the stairs. The bulb burned out a few days ago:

    Long-lasting 100 W Incandescent Bulb
    Long-lasting 100 W Incandescent Bulb

    To the best of my knowledge, that bulb has been in service since we moved in almost two decades ago. Most likely, it was installed when the house was built in 1955, because it matches several new-old-stock bulbs in a battered box that Came With The House™.

    To be fair, the attic light doesn’t see much service, but … it’s been a great cost-performer!

    The attic temperatures range from well below 0 °F in the winter to well above 120 °F in the summer, so it’s no place for CFL or LED bulbs. I swapped in a 60 W bulb from my heap, although I doubt it’ll be good for another half-century.

  • Sharing the Road on NYS Bike Route 9: Right Hook

    I’m towing a trailer of groceries southbound on Rt 376 (a.k.a. Hooker Avenue in this section), intending to turn right onto Zack’s Way for a library stop.

    T=0.00 s, car @ 26.4 mph, me @ 19.8 mph

    The transverse cracks through the asphalt are a convenient 60 ft apart, with the last one 20 ft from the stop line, and the frame numbers tick along at 60 frame/sec, so you can easily compute distances, times, and speeds.

    I’ll be turning right at the intersection. The light is green.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 0624
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 0624

    T= 2.07 s, car @ 26.7 mph, me @ 19.7 mph

    Now I can see the car’s right turn signal, so this might not end well. I can’t jam on the brakes and avoid a collision by dumping the bike at speed; I’ll slide under the car in the middle of the turn.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 0748
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 0748

    T=4.15 s, 15.2 mph

    I’m 20 feet from the stop line and, suddenly, the driver also realizes this might not end well.

    What he doesn’t know is that my trajectory must use the traffic lane: the shoulder around the corner is deteriorated, with several potholes, and vanishes completely where the intersection paving ends.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 0873
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 0873

    T=5.05 s

    The driver is turning wide, into the opposing traffic lane, but if I weren’t lining up for the turn, we’d be on a collision course. My line will take me just to the left of the seemingly tiny, but very deep, pothole just ahead.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 0927
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 0927

    T=7.15 s

    Leaning hard into the turn, but our paths won’t cross.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 1053
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 1053

    T=7.37 s

    I’m back upright in the middle of the lane, with the shoulder ending in a pothole to my right.

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 1066
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 1066

    T=8.31 s

    Remember, I’m wearing a fluorescent (“safety”) orange shirt, running a blinky light (which is also the rear camera), and towing a trailer with a fluttering flag: I am not inconspicuous!

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - 1123
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – 1123

    In case there’s any question:

    Zacks Way - Right Hook 2017-04-11 - rear
    Zacks Way – Right Hook 2017-04-11 – rear

    The rest of the ride proceeded without incident …

  • 3D Printer Design Conversation: Part 5

    The final installment of musings about building a large-format 3D printer …

    (Continued from yesterday)

    Perhaps they saw your blog post?

    The old-old (original) high-resistance Kysan motor costs something like $45 and, apart from minor cosmetic differences, looks /exactly/ the same as the old-new low-resistance motor. If you were picking motors and didn’t quite understand why you needed a low-resistance winding, which would you pick? Hence, my insistence on knowing the requirements before plunking down your money.

    To be fair, I didn’t understand that problem until the Thing-O-Matic rubbed my nose in it. With all four motors. Vigorously.

    So, yeah, I think I had a part in that.

    comes back to the same numbers over and over

    The new-new leadscrews have something like half the pitch of the old-new and old-old threads; I don’t recall the number offhand. In any event, that gives you twice the number of motor steps per millimeter of motion and roughly twice the lifting force. This is pretty much all good, even though it may reduce the maximum Z axis speed (depends on your settings & suchlike).

    When it moves upward by, say, 5 mm and downward by 5 mm, you’re measuring position repeatability. That level of repeatability is pretty much a given (for the M2, anyhow), but it doesn’t involve stiction & suchlike.

    Can you move the platform up by 0.01 mm, then down by 0.01 mm, and measure 0.01 mm change after each motion?

    Do larger increments track equally well in both directions?

    Move upward a few millimeters, then step downward by 0.01 mm per step. Does the measurement increase by 0.01 mm after each step?

    Repeat that by moving downward, then upward in 0.01 mm increments.

    If the platform moves without backlash & stiction in both directions with those increments, it’s a definite improvement.

    I wish I knew more
    everything you learned is burned into your head forever

    The way to learn more is exactly what you’re doing.

    Two things I learned a long time ago:

    1. Whenever you have two numbers, divide them and ask whether the ratio makes sense.

    2. Whenever you don’t understand a problem, do any part of it you do understand, then look at it again.

    Also, write everything down. When you come back later, you won’t remember quite how you got those results.

    Which is precisely why I have a blog. I search with Google (site:softsolder.com microstepping) and /wham/ I get a quick refresher on what I was thinking. That’s why I keep link-whoring URLs: that’s my memory out there!

    You’ll sometimes find scans of my scrawled notes & doodles. They won’t mean anything to you, but they remind me what I do to get the answers in that blog post.

    modern controllers utilize much higher voltage and current bursts

    More or less. Microstepping drivers apply a relatively high voltage, far in excess of what the winding can tolerate as a DC voltage, then regulate the current to a value that produces the appropriate waveform.

    This may be helpful:

    https://softsolder.com/2011/05/05/thing-o-matic-mbi-stepper-motor-analysis/

    The mass of the bed APPEARS to be cancelling out any magnetic or mechanical stiction.

    That can’t be true in both directions: the gravity vector points downward and the results aren’t symmetric. I think you’re reading noise. If the sequences of motions I described don’t produce the results I described, then you’re /definitely/ measuring noise.

    From back in the Thing-O-Matic days:

    https://softsolder.com/2011/05/22/thing-o-matic-z-axis-resolution-repeatability-backlash/

    E3D hot end setups vs MakerGear’s?

    No opinion.

    I’d want that groovemount post in an all-metal socket, though, rather than the traditional plastic, to get solid positioning and tolerance control. Makergear has the right idea with the aluminum V4 heater block mount.

  • 3D Printer Design Conversation: Part 4

    Continued musings about building a large-format 3D printer …

    (Continued from yesterday)

    taking your challenge and am starting by cloning the M2

    That gives you an existence theorem: you know exactly what you want to end up with.

    AFAICT, few of the M2’s parts bear standardized numbers you can simply order from a reputable seller. Makergear knows what it’s buying (obviously!), but they’re under no obligation to help out: you must reverse engineer the requirements, find a suitable part, find a supplier, then buy one item.

    Let me know how that works out for cost & performance; “cost” should include a nonzero value for your time and “performance” should have numbers you can verify. I (obviously) think the build will be a dead loss on both counts (*), but good data will be interesting.

    (*) Albeit useful for educational purposes, which I’ve used to justify many absurd projectst!

    How the heck do you read out the current (estimated, obviously) X Y Z position absolute to the machine coordinates?

    Perhaps M114 or M117?

    My overall list may be helpful, although the RepRap Marlin reference has more detail on their command set:

    https://softsolder.com/2013/03/14/g-code-and-m-code-grand-master-list/

    The LinuxCNC (and, perhaps, Machinekit) G-Code languages give you access to built-in variables and extend G-Code into a true scripting language. Marlin evolved differently and doesn’t support that sort of thing.

    G-Code is pretty much a write-only language, but you can do some interesting things:

    https://softsolder.com/2013/07/18/makergear-m2-cnc-platform-corner-clips/

    I use the gcmc compiler whenever I can for actual CNC machining:

    https://softsolder.com/2014/02/21/can-opener-gear-rebuild/

    Works for me, anyhow, although I don’t do much CNC these days.

    move my nozzle up .01 at a time

    Stiction / microstep errors / command resolution prevent that:

    Makergear M2 Z-axis Backlash Numbers

    The only way to measure the nozzle position is to measure a finished part with a known height, because any variation comes from the first layer offset. That’s if you have Z=0 at the platform, of course, rather than whatever offset you get by defining Z=0 at some random height based on jamming business cards / feeler gages / special Japanese rolling papers under the snout. [ptui & similar remarks]

    For example:

    https://softsolder.com/2015/09/14/makergear-m2-platform-stability/

    You need numbers. Lots of numbers. [grin]

    strip basic tools out of the control interface

    Yet another reason I don’t use S3D: that “Simplify” thing gets in the way of my obsessive need for control.

    (Continues tomorrow)