Bandsaw Worklight: LED Cable Clips

Adapting the sewing machine cable clips for larger USB cables:

LED Cable Clips - solid model
LED Cable Clips – solid model

The calculation positioning the posts wasn’t quite right; they now touch the cable OD at their midline and converge slightly overhead to retain it.

They’re great candidates for sequential printing:

LED Cable Clips - Slic3r - sequential print
LED Cable Clips – Slic3r – sequential print

With the basement at 14 °C, any cooling is too much: the platform heater can’t keep the bed above the thermal cutout temperature, the firmware concludes the thermistor has failed, and shuts the printer off. So I popped the four finished clips off the platform, removed the skirt, unplugged the fan, rebooted that sucker, and restarted the print.

One clip in the front keeps the cable away from the power switch and speed control directly below the gooseneck mount:

USB Gooseneck Mount - cable clip
USB Gooseneck Mount – cable clip

A few clips in the back route the cable from the COB LED epoxied directly onto the bandsaw frame away from the motor enclosure:

Bandsaw platform COB LED - cable clips
Bandsaw platform COB LED – cable clips

They’re mounted on double-sided foam tape. The COB LED on the frame isn’t anything to write home about, but you can see the foam tape peeking out around the clip base:

Bandsaw platform COB LED
Bandsaw platform COB LED

Unlike those LED filaments, it seems you can gently bend the aluminum substrate under a COB LED.

The bandsaw platform now has plenty of light: a fine upgrade!

Yeah, you can buy stick-on cable anchors, but what’s the fun in that? These fit exactly, hold securely, and work just fine.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

// LED Cable Clips
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU - October 2014
// February 2017 - adapted for USB cables
Layout = "Show"; // Show Build
//- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
ThreadThick = 0.25;
ThreadWidth = 0.40;
HoleWindage = 0.2; // extra clearance
Protrusion = 0.1; // make holes end cleanly
function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
// Dimensions
Base = [15.0,15.0,6*ThreadThick]; // base over sticky square
CableOD = 3.8;
BendRadius = 5.0;
CornerRadius = Base[0]/5;
CornerSides = 4*4;
NumSides = 6*3;
//-- Oval clip with central passage
module OvalPass() {
intersection() {
for (i=[-1,1], j=[-1,1])
translate([i*(Base[0]/2 - CornerRadius),j*(Base[1]/2 - CornerRadius),0])
cylinder(r=CornerRadius,h=Base[2] + 1.00*CableOD,$fn=CornerSides,center=false);
union() {
translate([0,0,Base[2]/2]) // oversize mount base
for (j=[-1,1]) // bending ovals
translate([0,j*(Base[1]/2 - 0.125*(Base[1] - CableOD)/2),(Base[2] - Protrusion)])
h=(CableOD + Protrusion),
if (Layout == "Show")
translate([0,0,Base[2] + CableOD/2])
// Build it
view raw LED Cable Clips.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

5 thoughts on “Bandsaw Worklight: LED Cable Clips

  1. I like your clips! Have you had any trouble with them delaminating and cracking open at the base of the posts? I’d be leery about them breaking if done on my printer, but yours look to be pretty solid.

    1. This bigger-and-better version doesn’t have many power-on hours, but the older & smaller clips (with a central post and four pillars) on various sewing machines have survived several few years. Admittedly, that’s a low-stress occupation: the foam tape adhesive tends to give up where the wiring applies a steady force.

      I just tried breaking a corner post off an older clip and … it won’t break, even with a painful amount of finger pressure. PETG is good stuff!

  2. I’ll borrow these to get motor cable on my lathe to behave :) Thanks.

    As for the platform heater, try adding a volt or two on your power supply if it has a tuning pot. Most industrial PSUs can give that little bit extra and other components probably won’t mind (check the caps and other usual suspects before you do that).

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