Drying Rack Rung Repair

One of the rungs in the drying rack that keeps my bath towel from crawling away broke:

Drying Rack - broken rung

Drying Rack – broken rung

The rungs have turned-down pegs on the ends that slide through the inner side strut and anchor into the outer strut with a nail through the end. You can see the peg between the struts.

Removing the nail split the end of the strut, so I slobbered urethane glue into the crack and clamped it together overnight:

Drying Rack - strut gluing

Drying Rack – strut gluing

Rather than removing the strut and doing it right, I gingerly freehanded a 3/8 inch hole into the end with a Forstner bit:

Drying Rack - drilled reinforced rung

Drying Rack – drilled reinforced rung

Yes, that’s off-center, but it’s dead on the scar where the peg broke off. I have no idea how they could turn down a cylinder to get an eccentric peg on the end.

The black heatstink tubing reinforces the absurdly thin wood shell remaining around the hole. It’s probably not required, given that I’m about to fill the hole with a hardwood peg; nothing exceeds like excess.

Cut a suitable length from a nearby foam paint brush handle that just happens to be both hardwood and 3/8 inch in diameter, dab urethane glue in the holes (but not in the inner strut!), stuff peg through inner strut, seat in outer strut, stretch things enough to slide peg into rung, separate struts to avoid inadvertently pasting them together:

Drying Rack - reassembled

Drying Rack – reassembled

Took about fifteen minutes over the course of three days while the glue cured.


Those of long memory may recall a similar repair to the previous rack; we do, occasionally, toss things. I did, of course, add some of its dowels to the Long Things Stockpile.

  1. #1 by Red County Pete on 2015-09-26 - 09:05

    get an eccentric peg

    Sounds like a rechuck job with either a) sloppy machinery/operator, and/or b) uncooperative stock. On my few woodturning projects that needed a jab from s spur center or driver, I found that the growth rings can make getting the point in the right place a bear. On the other hand, most of the wood I turn now uses a metalworking lathe. I have a .50 cal can full of turned knob blanks left over from the quilt frame cloning project. (Hasn’t been used yet; the prototype’s suggested application method puts some odd demands on a conventional sewing machine.)

    • #2 by Ed on 2015-09-26 - 10:07

      I can’t imagine how turning those dowels would require more than one chucking operation in a purpose-built machine.

      More likely: it’s a lathe job from a 2.5-World sweatshop with foot-turned machinery. [sigh]

  2. #3 by solaandjin on 2015-09-26 - 11:45

    “Long Things Stockpile”

    It sounds like you assort your stockpiles according to Japanese counter word classes: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_counter_word#Extended_list_of_counters

    • #4 by Ed on 2015-09-26 - 12:21

      I definitely have flat things, thin things, tools, machines, books, and paper packets; now I know why they’re in different piles.

      Ya learn something new every day around here! Thanks…

  3. #5 by Daniel B Martin on 2015-09-26 - 13:18

    “Took about fifteen minutes over the course of three days while the glue cured.”
    You need a Secret Weapon.

    • #6 by Ed on 2015-09-26 - 13:44

      Phew! That would let me made bad joints at an incredible pace, plus become one with my repairs! [grin]

      Foaming urethane glue fills the joint completely and is flat-out terrible for flat joints with no expansion room. Cyanoacrylates work best for nearly perfect joints and don’t fill voids very well, although the accelerator probably helps with that.

      Neither has enough shelf life for my small use, but at least I can pry the totally foam-clogged cap off the urethane glue bottle and dip some out with a screwdriver. Small tubes of cyanoacrylate tend to be single-use containers.

  4. #7 by Red County Pete on 2015-09-26 - 16:18

    I doubt the dowel is made at the same time as the tenon–long thin stock is whippy, and a production outfit would (I think) buy premade dowels from the Usual Suppliers and apply a tenon. Either a lathe, or a rotary tenon cutter. (Dual blades around a hollow. Larger versions are for log furniture.) The latter is pretty suitable for a third-world shop. Fast, OK at getting diameter and length down, but getting it centered is optional.

    On CA glue, the model airplane types sell a variety, including thin, thick and gap filling. I’ve gotten several years out of a 2 ounce bottle, though it helps to have spare tips. I also keep the accelerator at the far end of the shop. Tower Hobbies sells a variety. I gave up on polyurethane glue in favor of PVAs, including for outdoor applications. The poly was skinning over in the bottle, even in my 70F warm box.

    • #8 by Ed on 2015-09-27 - 10:06

      Definitely looks like a tenon cutter happened to that rod, then…

  5. #9 by Andrew on 2015-09-27 - 09:46

    Nice rack!

    • #10 by Ed on 2015-09-27 - 10:05

      It was grody when we got it and is pretty far into the “wear it out” part of the cycle, but entirely sufficient for my towel!

  6. #11 by przemek klosowski on 2015-10-02 - 15:01

    re. non-concentric rod vs. end: it was almost certainly done in a woodworking lathe, which doesn’t use jaws that could be dialed to concentricity; the workpiece is turned between centers that press a sharp cone into the ends of the material. Where in the ends? It’s woodworking: they just eyeballed it :)

    • #12 by Ed on 2015-10-02 - 15:53

      Makes sense to me: I thought the whole process would be automated, but the capital-vs-labor tradeoff works much differently in the “factory” that made it.