Dishwasher Rack Pins: More Plastic

Those 3D printed dishwasher rack protectors solved the problem on the bottom of the pins, but the tops also had some rust. I dosed the pins with Evapo-Rust to stabilize the corrosion:

Dishwasher rack - rusted pins

Dishwasher rack – rusted pins

After that picture, the pins soaked for a while, got a rinse & blotting, then sat for a while to dry. I can’t say that’s in complete accordance with the directions, but it’s close to the spirit of the thing.

Meanwhile, the MEK / xylene / acetone I added to the bottle of stiffened ReRACK repair coating had softened it up pretty well.  They recommend several coats at half-hour intervals, of which this was the first:

Dishwasher rack - first plastic layer

Dishwasher rack – first plastic layer

I probably should have chewed off the corrosion bulging the OEM coating, but, given the number of pins that needed chewing, that started looking like a major project. Let’s face it, I can always touch things up if the pins continue rotting out.

The next morning, the rack was back in service:

Dishwasher rack - recoated pins

Dishwasher rack – recoated pins

One advantage of a big blob atop each pin: the printed rack protectors might not wriggle off quite so easily.



  1. #1 by madbodger on 2013-02-14 - 09:47

    To chew the corrosion off the top of the pins quickly and easily, you’d want something like a battery terminal brush, where all the bristles point inward. The problem, of course, is where to find such a brush in that size.

    • #2 by Ed on 2013-02-14 - 10:01

      Something like a teeny sandworm’s maw

      Looking at my tools, estimating the effort for one pin, then multiplying by the number of grody pins, convinced me a quick-and-dirty job was in order!

  2. #3 by Red County Pete on 2013-02-14 - 12:47

    I’d consider a carbide burr in a Dremel if I had to do derusting, or find something from IX.

    Julie is adverse to repairs that can affect food-contacting surfaces, so my appliance repair runs more to rebuilding the mixer (Kitchen Aid actually makes it easy). Our only major dishwasher problem was a float switch that stuck in the DOWN position (yikes!) but came free with an inadvertent thumping. (It’s not accessible, being “protected” by a plastic shroud.) It’s worked fine for two years, but the replacement dishwasher has been selected.

    • #4 by Ed on 2013-02-14 - 13:00

      a carbide burr in a Dremel

      Carbide might get gummed with that white plastic coating, but it’d shine up the pins just fine!

      adverse to repairs that can affect food-contacting surfaces

      I’m a bit more circumspect about poisoning us than you might expect; in this case it’s all plastic and goes down the drain anyway, so what did we have to lose? [grin]

      • #5 by Jetguy on 2013-02-14 - 14:43

        Actually, being a tech guy who likely has a suitable power supply lying around, why not try .
        I’ve seen this magic trick before and it’s quite easy to solve those unreachable areas where you didn’t want to remove all the old coating.

        “To build our electrolysis station, we will need the following items: a non-conductive container to hold the electrolyte, box of washing soda, 12 Volt battery charger (the process with work with as little as 2 Amps of current), and scrap ferrous metal (rebar works very well and does not contain the toxic metals chromium and nickel as does stainless steel). Washing soda (sodium carbonate) is usually available in the laundry additives section of better supermarkets. The brand that I use is manufactured by Arm and Hammer. In a pinch, electric dishwasher detergent will work as it is mostly sodium carbonate mixed with sodium silicate (water glass).”

        Hmm, this brings out thoughts of a self rust preventing anode….. Oh wait, they do that on boats already.

        • #6 by Ed on 2013-02-14 - 19:01

          electric dishwasher detergent will work

          Ah! All we need is a bit of leakage current through a rectifier and we’re good to go…