Posts Tagged Repairs
The plug had a rather large cable entry that cried out for a touch of brass:
Fancy plugs have a helical spring strain relief insert about the size & shape of that brass snout; might have to buy me some fancy plugs.
This time, I got the alignment right by clamping everything in the lathe while the epoxy cured:
I flipped the drill end-for-end, which was surely unnecessary.
It’s now sitting on the kitchen table, providing a bit of light during supper while I wait for a WS2812 controller failure. Again.
The other side shows where the ink stopped seeping under the silicone:
I don’t know if I melted the side of the LED or if it came that way, but, oddly, there’s no leakage on that side.
This LED matches the layout of Josh’s “crappy” LEDs, as does the entire lot below, although I suspect that’s more coincidence than anything else; there aren’t that many different layouts around.
Flushed with success, so to speak, I ran the Sharpie around all the unused LEDs from that order:
I tested the process on the three LEDs in front, then wiped the ink off with denatured alcohol.
A closer look shows the ink all around the silicone-to-case border, with plenty of opportunity to seep in:
After wiping the ink off, none of the 31 unused LEDs showed any sign of poor sealing.
I haven’t been keeping good records of the failures, but right now I have twelve functional WS2812 LEDs attached to various glass doodads. That leaves 7-ish failed LEDs out of the 15-ish with long term use (not counting four recent replacements).
In round numbers, that’s a 50% failure rate…
I should wire up the remaining sheet of LEDs as a test fixture, let them cook for a while, and see what happens.
A length of aluminum hex bar became a nice 10-32 screw trimmer:
The hex neatly fits a 5/8 inch wrench, so I can tighten the jam nuts enough to run the lathe forward, part off the screw, and clean up the end just fine.
Unfortunately, the second test cut didn’t work nearly so well:
With the cross-slide gib adjusted to the snug side of easy, the cut put enough pressure on the parting tool to lift the way on the tailstock side about 4 mil = 0.1 mm. The parting tool submarined under the cut, dislodged the fixture, and didn’t quite stall the motor while the chuck jaws ate into the aluminum.
Well, that was a learning experience.
After tightening the cross-slide gib to the far side of hard-to-turn:
- Put a longer screw in the fixture
- Grab it in the tailstock drill chuck
- Crunch the hex end of the fixture in the spindle chuck
- Remove the screw through the spindle (*)
- Put a slight taper on the end of the fixture threads with a center drill
- Deploy the live center to support the fixture
Turns out that angling the bit by 10° dramatically reduces chatter. If I had BR and BL turning tools, I’d be using them with the QCTP set to 0°, but they weren’t included in the set that came with the lathe.
It’s a good thing I’m not fussy about the diameter of that cylindrical section:
I knew the craptastic lathe ways needed, mmmm, improvement and it’s about time to do something.
(*) By concatenating all my ¼ inch socket extension bars into an absurd noodle capped with square-to-hex adapter holding a Philips bit.
Three more knockoff Neopixels failed in the last few weeks, including one that can’t possibly suffer any thermal stress:
I wrapped the halogen bulb in a shop towel, laid the ersatz heatsink against an anvil (actually, it was a microwave transformer on the Squidwrench operating table), whacked a chisel into the epoxy joint, and met with complete success:
Having epoxied the PCB and braid in place, there was nothing for it but to drill the guts out of the brass cap:
Which produced a pile of debris in addition to the swarf:
The brass cap emerged unscathed, which was just about as good as I could possibly hope for.
The base LED in this 21HB5A also failed:
Soooo I had to unsolder the plate lead and Arduino connections to extract the bottom PCB; fortunately, that was just a press-fit into the base.
I should mount a 3.5 mm stereo jack on the platter and run the plate lead into a nice, albeit cheap, knurled metal plug, so I can dismount both the tube and the plate lead without any hassle. Right now, the tube can come out of the socket, but the plate lead passes through the platter.
For whatever it’s worth, all of the dead WS2812 LEDs pass the Josh Sharpie Test, so these failures don’t (seem to) involve poor encapsulation.
Another X10 RF transciever, this one made for IBM (!) a long time ago, emerged from the heap with its case falling apart: the plastic bosses that should anchor the screws had broken off, then cracked radially. Given that I was probably going to toss it anyway, for reasons that will soon be obvious, I tried repairing the bosses just for practice.
Stuffing the boss fragments into close-fitting brass tubes, with a dash of IPS #3 on the broken faces, put them back together reasonably well:
More IPS #3 and a pair of clamps stuck the bosses back on the case:
Note the dark smudge on the inside of the case. Even though nothing on the PCB looked particularly overheated, Soot Is Sign of Bad Electrical Health.
And it turned out neither the bonds nor the plastic were up to the task. A day after successfully reassembling the transceiver, the bosses failed along new cracks and crumbled into different fragments.
I applied a Kapton tape belly band around the case halves, verified that the transceiver no longer produced reliable X10 commands, and executed ++recycle_pile.
So it goes.
The beater bar found and ingested a remarkably long strip of carpet yarn, resulting in a sudden stop and an acute need for disassembly. In the unlikely event that happens again:
- Remove hose
- Release latch to lay hose fitting flat
- Remove two obvious screws
- Pry rear latches adjacent to hose fitting to release rear of top cover
- Pry side latches to release middle of top cover
- Pull rear of top cover away from base
- Disengage latches along front of beater bar
Those places, neatly marked for future reference, with the top cover against the floor:
With the cover off, the beater bar lifts out and you can easily unwind the mess.
Now I know the Forester’s TPMS icon blinks on 1000 feet from a cold start with 12 psi in the offending tire. I returned home and pulled this from a sipe in the left rear tire:
It’s atop a 0.1 inch grid.
The flat side on the right rode tangent to the tire surface, recessed slightly below the tread, and pretty much invisible inside the sipe. Of course, the point punched through the tire’s steel belt and let the wind out, ever so slowly.
I initially thought it was a utility knife blade fragment, but under the microscope it looks more like a saw blade tooth. It’s obviously been kicking around on the road for quite a while; back in the day, they occasionally swept the roads, but that was then and this is now.
Makes me glad I didn’t buy four new tires after the last flat. I suppose installing two plugs in the same tire counts as a net loss, but they’re small, widely separated injuries and that’s how it’ll roll.
For the record: with 14 k miles on the tires, tread wear = 2/32 inch of the original 6/32 inch depth.
Those tires should last another 30 k miles at our current pace, although I expect more random debris will kill one stone cold dead before that.