Tag: Repairs

If it used to work, it can work again

X Server 1.18 vs Wacom: Back to the Mainline

As mentioned there, I had to use the Arch Linux linuxwacom-bamboo-cth-ctl package because X Server 1.8 discarded all the carefully tweaked HAL baggage and the existing xf86-input-wacom package wasn’t yet compatible with the new server.

That worked fine, until the most recent X Server tweak killed the Bamboo driver (which I hadn’t manually updated). As I expected, though, the new xf86-input-wacom package works just fine, so I can discard my manual workaround.

Having recently tweaked the tablet coordinates to keep the pointer out of the gutter, I first thought I’d killed something… but that would happen instantly, not after a while. The key was looking in /var/log/Xorg.0.log to find this gem:

[  3447.599] (II) LoadModule: "wacom"
[  3447.638] (II) Loading /usr/lib/xorg/modules/input/wacom_drv.so
[  3447.651] dlopen: /usr/lib/xorg/modules/input/wacom_drv.so: undefined symbol: dixScreenOrigins
[  3447.652] (EE) Failed to load /usr/lib/xorg/modules/input/wacom_drv.so
[  3447.652] (II) UnloadModule: "wacom"
[  3447.652] (EE) Failed to load module "wacom" (loader failed, 7)

Removing the bamboo package seems to have wiped out the udev rule that creates the /dev/input/wacom symlink. Adding that back in, as described there, solves that problem. Again.

The evidence in /var/log/Xorg.0.log looked like this:

[ 52121.754] (**) Option "Device" "/dev/input/wacom"
[ 52121.754] (EE) xf86OpenSerial: Cannot open device /dev/input/wacom
        No such file or directory.
[ 52121.754] (EE) Wacom - stylus: Error opening /dev/input/wacom (No such file or directory)
[ 52121.754] (II) UnloadModule: "wacom"
[ 52121.754] (EE) PreInit returned NULL for "Wacom - stylus"
[ 52121.754] (**) Option "Device" "/dev/input/wacom"
[ 52121.754] (EE) xf86OpenSerial: Cannot open device /dev/input/wacom
        No such file or directory.
[ 52121.754] (EE) Wacom - eraser: Error opening /dev/input/wacom (No such file or directory)
[ 52121.754] (II) UnloadModule: "wacom"
[ 52121.754] (EE) PreInit returned NULL for "Wacom - eraser"

Everything is logged somewhere: the evidence is out there!

2010-10-14

Biting Through the Bite Valve

I carry a water pack behind the seat on my Tour Easy, with the hose over my left shoulder and the valve captured by a magnetic thingie pinned to my shirt. On a recent ride I hit a substantial pothole while drinking from the tube and managed to bite completely through the miracle plastic “Bite Me” valve, mostly due to clenching my teeth in concentration rather than from the impact.

Bitten bite valve

A few days later my dim consciousness finally took note that the water kept draining down into the pack between sips: every sip came with a mouthful of air.

A year or so ago, the original valve developed a nasty case of embedded gunk and I picked up a quartet of Genuine Nalgen valves (or a credible imitation thereof) from the usual eBay supplier. I wonder if the reservoir and tubing will outlast the remaining two valves?

2010-10-09
Plastic Screw-top Flashlight Fix

As part of my clear-off-the-workbench effort, this flashlight emerged from the dark depths. It’s a few decades old and wasn’t a good design: the “switch” is a simple contact between the end of the cell casing and the reflector rim, activated by screwing the reflector tighter on the case.

Broken flashlight case

The failure is simple: the case cracks through at the stress raiser formed where the “switch” contacts rest on a sharp inside corner. That stiff little spring maintains pressure on the cells, so the case is always under tension and eventually fractures.

Flashlight clamped in mill

I grabbed the broken pieces in the lathe, turned off the fractured plastic, and wound up with a pair of nicely mating surfaces (and a somewhat shorter flashlight, but it’s still long enough). Apply enough Plastruct solvent glue to soften the new faces, then clamp them together. The big manual mill knows how to apply a strong, steady vertical force to a project like this.

It’s once again hanging by the basement door, where it gets used roughly once every other blue moon (yeah, it’s color-coordinated). This isn’t the first time this flashlight has failed that way, but it’ll be the last: next time, it’s in the trash.

Honest, I swear it!

2010-10-08
Screwdriver Bit Ball Repair: Rubberdraulics!

Went to use a small multi-bit screwdriver and the bit fell right out: evidently, the ball wasn’t swaged tightly enough; it and the spring went walkabout. Given that I don’t know when or where that might have happened, there’s no chance I’ll ever see those parts again.

Screwdriver bit with missing ball

But I do have some 2 mm steel bearings that aren’t grossly oversized, so all hope is not lost. Alas, I have no idea what sort of spring to put in there, other than that I don’t have one of those.

Drilled hole with ball

This looks like an application for rubberdraulics: use compliant silicone snot rubber as a spring. Lautard described a use with a lock ring and an external screw to apply pressure, but here it’ll work fine to allow a small motion for a tiny ball.

Drill out the recess barely larger than the ball: the slight clearance allows the cured rubber to squish out around the ball. I clamped it in the Sherline vise and jogged into position by eyeball, then poked a hole with G83 down 1.5 mm. The original recess was a bit over 2 mm deep, so there’s plenty of room for the silicone in the bottom.

Then mush some silicone into the hole, install the ball, push it down until it stands barely proud of the surface, scrape off the excess rubber, and let it cure overnight.

New ball in place

There, now, that wasn’t so bad, was it?

2010-10-07
AA Cell Holder: Fragile Contacts

Broken cell holder contact

It seems I applied a bit too much pressure to one of the contacts on a metal AA cell holder: the outer rim of the rivet holding the solder tab in place departed for the distant reaches of the Basement Laboratory.

No big deal, I thought: pop another rivet in place and get back in operation…

You really want the rivet to go in with the flat head inside the cell holder where the original flat head was. Unfortunately, the rivet yanker’s head won’t fit into the holder; I’m pretty sure the manufacturer has a Special Machine to make that happen.

So I put the reinforcing washer and lumpy end inside. That meant switching the insulating washers to keep the overall distance from the negative cell contact about the same.

Cell holder rivet – inside

The outside looks much better…

Cell holder rivet – outside

For what it’s worth, these pix came from the Sony DSC-H5 with the flash turned down 1 EV. Much better results than the Casio EX-Z850, even with its flash set to Soft (whatever that is). The H5 has much better macro capability… and with the new Eneloop cells, it lasts long enough to make it usable in the shop.

2010-10-05
Door Stop Bumper Fix

After slightly over half a century, the rubber bumpers on the doorstops around the house have stiffened up and, occasionally, one falls off.

Although I suppose I should just buy a new doorstop, molding a dab of silicone snot around the end of the nice brass post takes only a few minutes (plus an overnight cure). If what they tell us about silicone adhesives is true, this one is good until the sun goes dark…

Re-bumpered door stop

Another no-CNC repair!

2010-10-02
Broken Tap Removal: The CNC Way
Having successfully drilled and tapped eight 4-40 holes for the MOSFETs and two 8-32 holes for the heatsink clamps, I needed four more holes for the 6-32 standoffs that will mount the heat spreader to the base. As is always the case, the tap broke in the next-to-last hole…

Broken tap

This is a three-flute tap, the break is recessed below the surface, and it looks like it’s cracked along one of the flutes. Bleh! I don’t have any tap extractors, mostly because I don’t do that much tapping, and I doubt the extractors work all that well on tiny taps.

I tried something I’d never done before: slit the top of the tap with an abrasive wheel and unscrew it. That didn’t work, of course, but it’s a useful trick to keep in mind. I think the tap was cracked lengthwise and, in any event, a three-flute tap doesn’t have the proper symmetry for a slot. Better luck with larger four-flute taps.

Slotted tap

So I must dig the mumble thing out…

Starting the moat

The overall plan:
- Clamp the heat spreader to the Sherline tooling plate
- Helix-mill a trench around the tap
- Grab the stub with Vise-Grips
- Unscrew it
- Repair the damage
The clearance hole for a 6-32 screw is 0.1405 inch and that’s a 3/16-inch end mill: 70 + 93 = 163 mil radius, call it 0.170 inch. You really don’t want to kiss the tap flutes with the end mill, so you could make that the ID a bit larger.

Manual CNC, feeding commands into Axis and using the history list to chew downward 20 mils on each pass. With the origin in the middle of the broken tap and the cutter starting at (-0.170,0), the code looks like:
```
G2 I+0.170 Z=-0.020
G2 I+0.170 Z=-0.040
... and so on ...
```
About 3000 rpm and 2 inches per minute feed; the feed was too slow, because the aluminum chips were much too fine. I actually used cutting lube for this job: the heat spreader got nice and warm.

Coolant

I stopped at Z=-0.100 and made a final pass around the bottom of the hole to clean out the ramp. Then, try unscrewing the tap…

Tap stub – first attempt

Of course, the stub broke off more or less flush with the bottom of the hole, so I continued milling downward to Z=-0.260, a bit more than halfway through the plate. This time, the needle-nose Vise-Grips got a good grip on an uncracked section and the remains twisted out with very little effort.

Grabbing the stub

Although the central pillar is outside the tap’s OD, leaving a solid aluminum shell, there’s not much meat to it. The shell broke off with the first twist and came out with the tap.

Those are not, by the way, gold-plated Vise-Grips. It’s a flash picture and the worklight is a warm-white compact fluorescent: the color correction that makes the aluminum look neutral gray turns the reflected CFL into gold.

Aligning replacement nuts

I milled off the remains of the shell around the tapped hole, leaving a more-or-less flat bottom. If I cared enough, I’d machine a snug-fitting replacement aluminum plug, epoxy it into place, then (attempt to) drill-and-tap the hole again.

Instead, because the hole was deep enough for a pair of 6-32 nuts and a washer, I simply aligned those on a screw and filled the hole with JB Weld epoxy.

It doesn’t show in the picture, but the screw is well-lubricated with silicone grease to prevent it from becoming one with the nuts.

I eased epoxy into the recess, chasing out the inevitable air bubbles, and then scraped off most of the excess.

Epoxy fill

Let it cure overnight, scrub it on some sandpaper atop the sacrificial side of the surface plate, and it’s all good again…

Sanded flat

The little finger of epoxy sticking out to the front fills the end of the slit I carved into the top of the tap, which is visible in the other pictures if you look closely. The area around the hole isn’t stained; that’s smooth epoxy.

Of course, the thermal conductivity of epoxy is a lot less than that of solid aluminum. I’m not really pushing the limits of TO-220 packages, so this kludge will work fine in this application. It’s also nice that the repair is on the bottom of the heat spreader, where nobody will ever know I screwed up…

Now, to return to the project at hand, with even more motivation to avoid tapping holes in the future!
2010-09-29