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Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: MK4

Prusa Mk 4 3D printer with MMU3 feeder

  • Prusa MK4: Mesh Bed Leveling Temperature vs. 0.8 mm Ruby Durozzle

    Prusa MK4: Mesh Bed Leveling Temperature vs. 0.8 mm Ruby Durozzle

    After going through the ritual required to install the 0.8 mm nozzle and preload the filament, the hot end looks like this before installing the silicone sock:

    Prusa MK4 hot end - 0.8 mm Durozzle ruby - front
    Prusa MK4 hot end – 0.8 mm Durozzle ruby – front

    The aluminum block doesn’t look nearly as awful as these pictures suggest; those plastic smears serve as reminders of a few previous printing mishaps.

    The nozzle is a 0.8 mm Durozzle with a ruby tip suitable for abrasive filaments like PETG-CF, although this is gooey squishy “natural” TPU:

    Prusa MK4 hot end - 0.8 mm Durozzle ruby - bottom
    Prusa MK4 hot end – 0.8 mm Durozzle ruby – bottom

    The first patio table foot test piece in TPU had terrible adhesion to the Textured Sheet, which I eventually tracked down to an excessively thick first layer. Given that the MK4 homes the axes and performs mesh bed leveling probes over the build area, this was difficult to believe, particularly because it had never been a problem with the Prusa 0.4 mm ObXidian hardened steel nozzle.

    More poking around showed some of the plastic drool left on the outside of the nozzle from the previous print session (as shown in the two pictures above) could remain hardened or at least “not squishy” despite the nozzle being heated before homing and mesh probing. Because probing depends on having the nozzle touch the platform, anything between the nozzle and the steel sheet will raise the Z=0 position and cause all the layers to be too high.

    As far as I can tell, ruby has a thermal coefficient around 40 W/m·K, roughly the same as steel. Both are considerably lower than the 200-ish W/m·K for the aluminum block surrounding the nozzle tube, suggesting most of whatever temperature gradient there may be occurs between the heater and the nozzle, not in the nozzle.

    While puzzling that out, I noticed the nozzle heated to only 160 °C prior to homing and probing, which seemed low for a filament calling for 230 to 250 °C during printing. Ordinary PETG heated to 170 °C, so something was different.

    More puzzling showed the Start G-Code section of the printer’s Custom G-Code sets the home / probe temperature, herein reformatted for readability:

    M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
    
    M104 T0 S{((filament_notes[0]=~/.*MBL160.*/) ? 160 : 
    (filament_notes[0]=~/.*HT_MBL10.*/) ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 10) : 
    (filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : 
    (filament_type[0] == "FLEX") ? 210 : 
    (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/) ? 175 : 
    170)} ; set extruder temp for bed leveling
    
    M109 T0 R{((filament_notes[0]=~/.*MBL160.*/) ? 160 : 
    (filament_notes[0]=~/.*HT_MBL10.*/) ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 10) : 
    (filament_type[0] == "PC" or filament_type[0] == "PA") ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 25) : 
    (filament_type[0] == "FLEX") ? 210 : 
    (filament_type[0]=~/.*PET.*/) ? 175 : 
    170)} ; wait for temp
    
    

    The bursts of line noise after the M104 Set Extruder Temperature and M109 Set Extruder Temperature and Wait commands consist of nested ternary operators sifting placeholder variables defined in other parts of the slicer configuration.

    I had set up the eSun TPU 95A filament parameters based on Prusa’s TPU definition. I eventually discovered that definition includes the text MBL160 in its Notes section, which satisfies the regex in the first ternary operator:

    (filament_notes[0]=~/.*MBL160.*/) ? 160 : … snippage …
    

    Which then emitted the M104 T0 S160 and M109 R160 commands into the G-Code to set the temperature.

    After considerably more flailing around while figuring this out, I changed the filament Notes to read:

    HT_MBL10 -- force higher probe temperature for Durozzle ruby nozzle
    mbl160 -- disabled by lowercase
    

    Which then falls through to the regex in the second ternary operator:

    (filament_notes[0]=~/.*HT_MBL10.*/) ? (first_layer_temperature[0] - 10) : 
    

    Which sets the temperature to 10 °C below the first layer temperature, which I had set to 230 °C, so the probing now occurs at 220 °C.

    I am not making this up.

    Although that may be a bit too hot, the drool on the nozzle softens nicely and smashes flat during probing, thus solving the immediate problem and, without further ado, produced good round and square TPU feet.

  • Translucent vs. Transparent PETG Soap Dishes

    Translucent vs. Transparent PETG Soap Dishes

    In addition to printing bendy objects with TPU, the 0.8 mm nozzle 3D-prints PETG into thin walls with better transparency than the default 0.4 mm nozzle:

    Clear PETG - 0.4 vs 0.8 mm nozzle - side view
    Clear PETG – 0.4 vs 0.8 mm nozzle – side view

    The wall is now 1.0 mm thick, rather than 0.6 mm, and is much closer to being transparent. Those gray links from the RPi camera mount inside the dishes help show the difference.

    The 2.0 mm thick base plate is also more transparent, but mostly just reveals the 0.4 mm thick infill layers:

    Clear PETG - 0.4 vs 0.8 mm nozzle - top view
    Clear PETG – 0.4 vs 0.8 mm nozzle – top view

    More study is needed, even if we already have far more soap dishes than strictly necessary.

  • Prusa MK4: Nozzle Change Checklist

    Prusa MK4: Nozzle Change Checklist

    Both the round and square TPU patio table feet came from a 0.8 mm nozzle on the Prusa MK4, which produces results much faster than the venerable Makergear M2’s 0.35 mm nozzle. However, for unknown reasons a 0.8 mm nozzle is not compatible with the MMU3, so changing from and to the default 0.4 mm nozzle requires a somewhat complex ritual.

    For context, the MK4 extruder and hot end:

    Prusa MK4 - extruder overview
    Prusa MK4 – extruder overview

    Because the MK4 automatically unloads the filament from the extruder (with help from auto-retracting filament spools) when using the MMU, the hot end doesn’t have any filament in it. Disconnect the PTFE tube from the fitting atop the extruder, insert the end of the TPU filament from its Polydryer box, and …

    Change to 0.8 mm nozzle:

    • Remove silicone sock from hot end
    • Install fixture to hold the hot end in place
    • Loosen the two knobs clamping the nozzle
    • Loosen nozzle with 7 mm socket wrench
    • Unscrew & remove nozzle by hand
    • Install new nozzle by hand
    • Tighten nozzle with wrench
    • Tighten those two knobs
    • Remove fixture
    • Install silicone sock

    Change MK4 settings using the LCD panel:

    • SettingsMMU = Off
    • SettingsHardwarePrinthead = 0.8 mm

    Then, with the TPU filament poked into the top of the extruder:

    • FilamentLoad Filament =FLEX

    You’ll want to extrude a few lengths just to settle everything in place.

    Switching back to the 0.4 mm nozzle proceeds in the opposite direction, starting with:

    • FilamentUnload Filament

    Something of a nuisance, but not unbearable.

  • Square Patio Table Feet

    Square Patio Table Feet

    For a square patio table (with one missing foot), of course:

    Patio Table Feet - installed
    Patio Table Feet – installed

    These are chunky enough to demonstrate they’re made of clear-ish TPU, at least when backlit:

    Patio Table Feet - installed - backlit
    Patio Table Feet – installed – backlit

    The interior of the leg determines what fits into it:

    Patio Table Feet - leg interior
    Patio Table Feet – leg interior

    I pried out another foot, scanned it, and blew out the contrast:

    Patio Table Foot - scan
    Patio Table Foot – scan

    Importing that into LightBurn let me draw a rectangle matching the measured size, then node-edit the corners to approximate the shape:

    Patio Table Foot - LightBurn layout
    Patio Table Foot – LightBurn layout

    Export that shape as an SVG, import into OpenSCAD, and turn it into a solid model:

    Patio Table Foot - solid model - show view
    Patio Table Foot – solid model – show view

    That’s the Show view simulating the actual positions, which demonstrates why the pair of legs at each corner wear mirror-imaged feet. The Build view arranges the pair more sensibly for 3D printing:

    Patio Table Foot - solid model - build view
    Patio Table Foot – solid model – build view

    The protrusions and their bumps went through several iterations on the way to being functional, with the black TPU prototype on the left being entirely too bendy and the first clear version requiring utility knife editing to fit the end posts inside the leg:

    Patio Table Feet - prototypes
    Patio Table Feet – prototypes

    The original feet seem to be injection-molded ABS with a flat bottom intended to erode one corner against whatever the table stands on. However, the legs splay out at 5° from the vertical, which makes the flat bottom I used for the first few iterations obviously wrong:

    Patio Table Feet - flat foot
    Patio Table Feet – flat foot

    Somebody who can math harder than I would resolve the two angles and all the measurements into a single transformation matrix, but I rotated the foot separately around the X and Y axes, trigged the lowest corner to the proper height, then chopped off everything below Z=0. Works for me.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Patio Table Foot – rectangular legs
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2026-05-26
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build]
    /* [Hidden] */
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.01;
    NumSides = 4*3*2*4;
    Gap = 5.0/2;
    $fn=NumSides;
    PadOA = [50,23.5,4.5];
    LegAngles = [5,5];
    EndStrut = [2.5 + 2.5,13.3 – 1.0,23.0];
    SideStrut = [12.0,5.5 – 1.0,13.0];
    Clearance = 0.5;
    StrutsOC = [44.0 – EndStrut.x,18.0 – SideStrut.y];
    //—–
    // Define it
    module Foot(angles = LegAngles) {
    difference() {
    up((PadOA.x/2)*abs(sin(angles.x)) + (PadOA.y/2)*abs(sin(angles.y)))
    xrot(angles.x) yrot(angles.y)
    union() {
    down(3*PadOA.z)
    linear_extrude(4*PadOA.z)
    left(PadOA.x/2) fwd(PadOA.y/2)
    import("Patio Table Foot – pad outline.svg",center=true);
    up(PadOA.z)
    for (i = [-1,1])
    right(i*StrutsOC.x/2)
    cuboid(EndStrut,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    down(EndStrut.y/2) left(i*Clearance)
    pie_slice(r=(PadOA.x – StrutsOC.x)/2,ang=180,l=EndStrut.y,anchor=CENTER,spin=-i*90,orient=FRONT);
    up(PadOA.z)
    for (j = [-1,1])
    fwd(j*StrutsOC.y/2)
    cuboid(SideStrut,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
    down(SideStrut.x/2) zrot(90) right(j*Clearance)
    pie_slice(r=(PadOA.y – StrutsOC.y)/2,ang=180,l=SideStrut.x,anchor=CENTER,spin=j*90,orient=FRONT);
    }
    cuboid(4*PadOA,anchor=TOP);
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Build it
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    back(PadOA.y/2 + Gap)
    Foot();
    left(0.8*PadOA.x) fwd(PadOA.y) zrot(-90)
    yflip() Foot();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    union() {
    fwd(PadOA.y/2 + Gap)
    Foot();
    back(PadOA.y/2 + Gap)
    yflip() Foot();
    }
    }

  • Round Patio Table Feet

    Round Patio Table Feet

    For a round patio table, although you can’t tell from the picture:

    Round patio table feet - installed
    Round patio table feet – installed

    Also despite appearances, that’s 3D printed from clear-ish TPU, with its black appearance due to internal reflections from the leg’s dark interior.

    The original hard-white-plastic feet had eroded enough to let the aluminum legs scrape the deck paint:

    Round patio table feet - old vs new
    Round patio table feet – old vs new

    The only way to extract each old foot was to hack out a segment with a razor knife, after which it slid out easily.

    The ring around the top of the sections provides enough griptivity inside the leg to hold the foot in place:

    Round Patio Table Foot - solid model
    Round Patio Table Foot – solid model

    As with the TPU chains on the bike rack tray holder, I expect the compressed / bent segments will gradually relax inside the legs, but the feet ought not fall out in normal use.

    The OpenSCAD source code isn’t quite a one-liner, but it’s close:

    // Patio Table Foot - round legs
    // Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
    // 2026-05-29
    
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    
    /* [Hidden] */
    
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.01;
    NumSides = 4*3*2*4;
    Gap = 5.0;
    
    $fn=NumSides;
    
    PadOA = [8.0,1*INCH,3.0];
    
    SleeveOA = [13.0,21.7 - HoleWindage,12.0];
    
    Kerf = 2.5;
    
    
    //-----
    // Build it
    
    difference() {
      union() {
        tube(PadOA[LENGTH],od=PadOA[OD],id=PadOA[ID],anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
          tube(SleeveOA[LENGTH],od=SleeveOA[OD],id=SleeveOA[ID],anchor=BOTTOM);
        up(PadOA[LENGTH] + SleeveOA[LENGTH] - 1.0)
          torus(d_maj=SleeveOA[OD],r_min=(PadOA[OD] - SleeveOA[OD])/2,anchor=TOP);
      }
      up(PadOA[LENGTH])
        for (a = [0,60,120])
          zrot(a)
            cuboid([PadOA[OD],Kerf,2*SleeveOA[LENGTH]],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    
    
  • Bike Rack Tray Holder: Stretchy Tiedown Straps

    Bike Rack Tray Holder: Stretchy Tiedown Straps

    The tray holder on Mary’s bike worked well:

    Bike Rack Tray Holder - in use
    Bike Rack Tray Holder – in use

    Except for having the bungee cord run across the middle of the tray where it blocks access for larger trays and tends to bend the taller leaves.

    Well, I can fix that:

    Bike Rack Tray Holder - straps - rear
    Bike Rack Tray Holder – straps – rear

    The front tiedown is similar:

    Bike Rack Tray Holder - straps - front
    Bike Rack Tray Holder – straps – front

    They’re printed from TPU: rectangular blocks and chains, ending in wire hooks bashed from a coat hanger. The M4 button-head screws thread into (uncrushed) rivnuts, which seemed easier to manage than square nuts in this situation.

    The chains are just thick circles, with half of the top links sunk into the blocks:

    Stretchy Straps - build layout
    Stretchy Straps – build layout

    You’d (well, I’d) want to build them one at a time, because sometimes this happens:

    Bike Rack Tray Holder - bad platform adhesion
    Bike Rack Tray Holder – bad platform adhesion

    Based on those measurements, I raised the extruder by 0.1 mm, but apparently did a poor job of cleaning / flattening the cold TPU on the nozzle and got it wrong. As a result, the first layer didn’t get squooshed properly onto the BuildTak, came unstuck, and produced art . The track down the middle of the photo shows traces of a previous, badly over-squooshed test chain.

    The stretched TPU relaxes enough to leave very little tension after a day, as shown by the unhooked right chain:

    Bike Rack Tray Holder - straps - relaxing
    Bike Rack Tray Holder – straps – relaxing

    However, that make the chains exactly the right length, so they require even more force to get the hooks off the rack. After relaxing for another day, the stretched chains return to roughly their original lengths, so it’s all good.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // TPU Tiedown Straps for bike rack tray holder
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2026-05-14
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Build"; // [Show,Build,Chain,Blocks,Front,Rear]
    /* [Hidden] */
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.01;
    NumSides = 4*3*2*4;
    Gap = 5.0;
    $fn=NumSides;
    LinkID = 7.0;
    LinkOD = 10.0;
    LinkOC = 14.0;
    LinkHeight = 4.0;
    JointWidth = 2.0;
    FrontChainAngle = 30; // from vertical
    FrontChainLength = 80.0; // nominal length
    RearChainAngle = 20; // from vertical
    RearChainLength = 100.0; // nominal length
    BlockOA = [80.0,12.0,15.0];
    InsertOC = 30.0;
    //—–
    // Define things
    module Chain(n=2) {
    render()
    difference() {
    union() {
    hull() {
    cyl(LinkHeight,d=JointWidth,anchor=BOTTOM,rounding=0.0);
    back((n – 1)*LinkOC)
    cyl(LinkHeight,d=JointWidth,anchor=BOTTOM,rounding=0.0);
    }
    for (i = [0:n-1])
    back(i*LinkOC)
    cyl(LinkHeight,d=LinkOD,anchor=BOTTOM,rounding=0.0);
    }
    for (i = [0:n-1])
    back(i*LinkOC)
    down(Protrusion)
    cyl(LinkHeight + 2*Protrusion,d=(LinkID + HoleWindage),anchor=BOTTOM,rounding=-1.0);
    }
    }
    module FrontBlock() {
    difference() {
    cuboid(BlockOA,anchor=BOTTOM,chamfer=1.0,except=BACK);
    for (i = [-1:1])
    right(i*InsertOC) down(Protrusion) {
    cyl(BlockOA.z + 2*Protrusion,d=4.0 + HoleWindage,anchor=BOTTOM); // screw clearance
    cyl(1.5,d=9.0,anchor=BOTTOM); // insert head
    cyl(11.0,d=6.0,anchor=BOTTOM); // insert body
    }
    }
    }
    module RearBlock() {
    up(BlockOA.z/2) fwd(BlockOA.y/2)
    difference() {
    cuboid(BlockOA,anchor=FRONT,chamfer=1.0,except=BACK);
    for (i = [-1:1])
    right(i*InsertOC) fwd(Protrusion) {
    ycyl(BlockOA.z + 2*Protrusion,d=4.0 + HoleWindage,anchor=FRONT); // screw clearance
    ycyl(1.5,d=9.0,anchor=FRONT); // insert head
    ycyl(11.0,d=6.0,anchor=FRONT); // insert body
    }
    }
    }
    module FrontAssembly(cl=FrontChainLength,ca=FrontChainAngle) {
    Links = ceil(cl / LinkOC);
    union() {
    up(cl*cos(ca)) {
    FrontBlock();
    back(BlockOA.y/2)
    xrot(90)
    for (i = [-1,1])
    left(i*InsertOC/2)
    zrot(-i*ca + 180)
    Chain(Links);
    }
    }
    }
    module RearAssembly(cl=RearChainLength,ca=RearChainAngle) {
    Links = ceil(cl / LinkOC);
    union() {
    up(cl*cos(ca)) {
    RearBlock();
    back(BlockOA.y/2)
    xrot(90)
    for (i = [-1,1])
    left(i*InsertOC/2)
    zrot(-i*ca + 180)
    Chain(Links);
    }
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Chain")
    Chain();
    if (Layout == "Blocks") {
    fwd(BlockOA.y)
    FrontBlock();
    back(BlockOA.y)
    RearBlock();
    }
    if (Layout == "Front")
    FrontAssembly();
    if (Layout == "Rear")
    RearAssembly();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    fwd(BlockOA.y)
    FrontAssembly();
    back(BlockOA.y)
    zrot(180)
    RearAssembly();
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    fwd(BlockOA.z + Gap/2)
    up(BlockOA.y/2)
    xrot(-90)
    down(FrontChainLength*cos(FrontChainAngle))
    FrontAssembly();
    back(BlockOA.z + Gap/2)
    zrot(180)
    up(BlockOA.y/2)
    xrot(-90)
    down(RearChainLength*cos(RearChainAngle))
    RearAssembly();
    }
  • Prusa MK4 Camera Lighting

    Prusa MK4 Camera Lighting

    Although the Raspberry Pi camera has a good view of the Prusa MK4’s extruder, there’s not much light under there:

    RPi Camera Mount - image
    RPi Camera Mount – image

    There’s also not much room for a lighting fixture on the printer where it must mount, so I modified a trio of nominally 12 V / 4 W COB LED panels:

    Prusa MK4 - Extruder sidelight - COB LEDs
    Prusa MK4 – Extruder sidelight – COB LEDs

    Their “4 W” rating seems aspirational, at best, as a 12 VDC supply pushes only 75 mA through the panel, so they tick along at 900 mW. If you expect cheap eBay / Amazon components to live up to their specs, dream on.

    The modifications:

    • Unsolder the pins
    • Crunch off the surprisingly precise 27.4 Ω SMD resistor
    • Clean up the rubble
    • Wire the panels directly in series, ignoring their bridge rectifiers

    The 15 LEDs on each panel are arranged in five parallel chains of three LEDs for a total forward drop of 8.3 V, so putting three panels in series works with the MK4’s 24 V power supply.

    Stick them onto the MK4 power supply case with foam tape and wire them directly to the 24 V terminals:

    Prusa MK4 - Extruder sidelight - installed
    Prusa MK4 – Extruder sidelight – installed

    There’s very little clearance between the machine frame and the X Axis carriage on the threaded rod. Putting the LEDs in a 3D printed case and routing the wires lower on the column would be nice touches:

    Prusa MK4 - Extruder sidelight - front view
    Prusa MK4 – Extruder sidelight – front view

    The panels start at 30 mA when cold and drop to 25 mA as they warm up in the 63 °F = 17 °C Basement Shop. Each panel dissipates 250 mW: bright enough for the task, dim enough to avoid overpowering the camera’s limited dynamic range, and definitely within whatever power rating they should have.

    Looking over the camera’s shoulder in normal shop lighting suggests it’s about right:

    Prusa MK4 - Extruder sidelight - camera overview
    Prusa MK4 – Extruder sidelight – camera overview

    A staged scene with the shop lights turned off:

    Prusa MK4 - Extruder sidelight - low-light view
    Prusa MK4 – Extruder sidelight – low-light view

    Call it Good Enough™ for the purpose.