MK4 – The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Prusa MK4 Nozzle Tool Mod

Contemplating a 0.8 mm nozzle to print more-transparent things, I ran off an Official MK4 Nozzle Replacement Tool to stabilize the heater block while applying a wrench to the nozzle:

Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool - without inlet scoop — Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool – without inlet scoop

For obvious reasons, it doesn’t fit with the inlet scoop I installed as part of blinging the MK4:

Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool - inlet scoop installed — Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool – inlet scoop installed

Removing the scoop is a matter of removing those two cap screws, which is no big deal, but a little flush-cutter action made that problem Go Away forever:

Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool - inlet scoop mod — Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool – inlet scoop mod

Yeah, I should have modified the solid model. Maybe next time.

A version of the tool fits extruders covered with an Official Prusa Silicone Sock thermal insulator, but they were out of stock when I was in the mood. My heater wears a knockoff sock:

Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool - silicone sock vs nozzle — Prusa MK4 Nextruder Tool – silicone sock vs nozzle

Unlike the Official Sock, there’s no way to get a wrench on the nozzle with that one installed, but removing the sock is no big deal.

I apparently installed the nozzle / heater block slightly higher than specified, so the tool didn’t quite fit. Loosening those two thumbscrews and lowering the nozzle to fit the tool solved that problem. Fortunately, the automatic bed leveling routine corrects for nozzle height differences on the fly.

The scoop is back on the fan, the sock once again surrounds the heater, and I can easily swap in the 0.8 mm nozzle when the time comes.

2026-01-21

Olive Oil Bottle Cap Covers

We buy olive oil in large bottles, then fill smaller bottles for easier handling. The caps on those bottles were never meant to last as long as we keep them and the thin, deeply drawn aluminum tends to crack after a while.

So I conjured a cap cover from the vasty digital deep:

Olive Oil Cap - solid model — Olive Oil Cap – solid model

Which looks exactly like you’d expect when printed in black PETG:

Olive oil bottle cap - details — Olive oil bottle cap – details

You can see the raggedy edge of the original cap just inside the cover’s rim. A snippet of double-sided tape holds the cover in place, after de-oiling the cap with alcohol.

Having gotten one to fit, I made enough for All The Bottles:

Olive oil bottle cap - installed — Olive oil bottle cap – installed

Only two of those see regular service: one in use and another filled when the first is nearly empty. The remaining pair huddle in the back of the shelf against future need.

The OpenSCAD source code produces those fancy knurls with BOSL2’s textured cyl() :

// Shower soap dish
// Ed Nisley - KE4ZNU
// 2026-01-17

include <BOSL2/std.scad>

/* [Hidden] */

HoleWindage = 0.2;
Protrusion = 0.1;
NumSides = 5*3*4;

$fn=NumSides;

ID = 0;
OD = 1;
LENGTH = 2;

WallThick = 1.0;
BaseThick = 2.0;

CapOD = 36.0;

CoverOA = [CapOD,CapOD + 2*WallThick,20.0 + BaseThick];

//----------
// Build it

  render()
    difference() {
      cyl(BaseThick,d=CoverOA[OD],chamfer1=1.0,anchor=BOTTOM) position(TOP)
        cyl(CoverOA[LENGTH] - BaseThick,d=CoverOA[OD],
            texture="trunc_pyramids",tex_size=[2,6], style="convex",
            anchor=BOTTOM);
      up(BaseThick)
        cyl(CoverOA[LENGTH],d=CoverOA[ID],anchor=BOTTOM);
    }

2026-01-20

Translucent Night Light Light Guide

Our house came with several single-LED night lights featuring a transparent light guide / reflector:

Nightlight light guide - original — Nightlight light guide – original

The plate had snapped off one of them and, being me, I wondered if I could replace it with something similar.

Years passed.

Obviously, this must be made from a transparent substance, which 3D printed things are not, but after some fiddling with parameters I thought the result might be informative.

The guide plate is a section of a spherical surface, here approximated by a BOSL2 spheroid():

Nightlight light guide - view side - solid model — Nightlight light guide – view side – solid model

The original is 3 mm thick, but 2 mm worked out better for my purposes by reducing the amount of infill:

Nightlight light guide - wall side - solid model — Nightlight light guide – wall side – solid model

The intricate base latches into the lamp’s plastic case:

Nightlight light guide - base - solid model — Nightlight light guide – base – solid model

The result is, at best, translucent, because it’s definitely not transparent:

Nightlight light guide - translucent vs transparent — Nightlight light guide – translucent vs transparent

The zigzag pattern seems to come from the icosohedral approximation to the sphere, because it follows the surface tesselation.

Getting the base shape right required several iterations, each printed with the model cut off just above the bottom of the guide plate:

Nightlight light guide - test pieces — Nightlight light guide – test pieces

The first two attempts needed attention from a flush cutting pliers before fitting into the case, but they don’t call it rapid prototyping for nothin’.

The original and replacement plugged into an outlet strip:

Nightlight light guide - original vs printed on outlet strip — Nightlight light guide – original vs printed on outlet strip

While you can see the vague outline of the strip behind the printed light guide, it’s definitely lacking in detail:

Nightlight light guide - outlet strip detail — Nightlight light guide – outlet strip detail

The striations throw more light into the room than the original:

Nightlight light guide - printed — Nightlight light guide – printed

Fiddling with the 3D printing parameters might make it more transparent, but it’s going back into the box it came from after giving me a better idea of which parameters to tweak the next time around.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Nightlight light guide
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
	// 2026-01-13

	include <BOSL2/std.scad>

	Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build,Plate,Base,Pipe]

	/* [Hidden] */

	HoleWindage = 0.2;
	Protrusion = 0.1;
	NumSides = 1034;

	$fn=NumSides;

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	function ChordRadius(m,c) = (m^2 + (c^2)/4) / (2*m);

	PlateThick = 2.0;
	PlateOA = [60.0,50.0,PlateThick];
	PlateRound = 5.0;
	PlateTaper = 1.0;
	PlateAngle = atan(-2/60); // original plate angle, far end closer to wall

	PlateM = 2.4;
	PlateRadius = ChordRadius(PlateM,PlateOA.x); // light guide plate
	echo(PlateRadius=PlateRadius);

	WallThick = 2.0;

	MountOA = [23.4,17.0,5.5];
	MountRadius = ChordRadius(4.3,MountOA.x); // base arc in housing
	echo(MountRadius=MountRadius);

	PipeThick = 5.0;

	//———-
	// Define shapes

	// Oddly intricate base fitting into housing
	// Replete with magic numbers

	module Base() {

	difference() {
	union() {
	intersection() {
	cuboid([MountOA.x,MountOA.y,5.5],anchor=BOTTOM);
	back(6.5)
	tube(MountOA.z,or=MountRadius,wall=1.5,anchor=BOTTOM+BACK);
	}

	for (i=[-1,1])
	right(i*18.5/2)
	back(11.5)
	cuboid([1.8,8.0,MountOA.z],anchor=BOTTOM+BACK);

	for (i=[-1,1])
	right(i*22.0/2)
	cuboid([1.4,2.0,MountOA.z],anchor=BOTTOM+FRONT);

	fwd(5.0)
	cuboid([11.0,10.5,MountOA.z],anchor=BOTTOM+FRONT);
	}

	down(Protrusion)
	for (j=[-1,1])
	fwd(j*(1.5 + 10.0)/2)
	cuboid([7.0,10.0,MountOA.z + 2*Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);

	up(3.1)
	back(7.5)
	cuboid([MountOA.x,25.0,MountOA.z],anchor=BOTTOM+FRONT);
	}
	}

	// Light guide plate

	module Plate() {

	xrot(PlateAngle)
	zrot(90) yrot(90)
	left(PlateOA.x/2)
	down(PlateM + PlateThick/2)
	intersection() {
	up(PlateRadius)
	difference() {
	spheroid(PlateRadius,style="icosa");
	spheroid(PlateRadius – PlateThick,style="icosa");
	}
	cuboid(PlateOA + [0,0,2*PlateThick],rounding=PlateRound,edges="Z",anchor=BOTTOM);
	}

	}

	// Light pipe between base & plate
	// Magic numbers to fit case opening

	module Pipe() {

	difference() {
	intersection() {
	fwd(3.0/2 – 0.2)
	cuboid([MountOA.x,MountOA.y,PipeThick],rounding=0.5,edges="Z",anchor=BOTTOM+FRONT);
	back(6.5)
	cyl(MountOA.z,r=MountRadius,anchor=BOTTOM+BACK);
	}

	down(Protrusion)
	back((1.5 + 10.0)/2)
	cuboid([7.0,10.0,1.0 + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);

	}

	}

	module Assembly() {

	Base();

	up(MountOA.z)
	Pipe();

	up(MountOA.z + PipeThick)
	Plate();
	}


	//———-
	// Build things

	if (Layout == "Base")
	Base();

	if (Layout == "Plate")
	Plate();

	if (Layout == "Pipe")
	Pipe();

	if (Layout == "Show" \|\| Layout == "Build")
	Assembly();

view raw Nightlight Light Guide.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2026-01-16

Translucent Soap Dishes

A SquidWrench meeting discussion about printing transparent objects prompted me to conjure a soap dish from the vasty digital deep:

Shower Soap Dish - solid model — Shower Soap Dish – solid model

They’re all done in “natural” PETG with sufficient variations in speed, temperature, extrusion multiplier, and fill pattern to stock the shower & tub:

The single-thread sidewalls came out reasonably translucent in all the variations, but the baseplate remained stubbornly white-ish, even at 20 mm/s and 250 °C with 100% infill. The seams where the extruder retracts and lifts to the next layer remain conspicuous, with a scarf joint forming the white slab in the left-rear dish.

Quite a while ago, I’d considered making soap dishes with shattered-glass bottoms, but came to my senses. These have some key advantages:

Exactly the right size for narrow shower shelves
Light enough to not damage anything when it inevitably falls off
Reasonably unbreakable when that happens
Easily replaced

They’re also test pieces for the whole transparency thing, so it’s all good.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Shower soap dish
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
	// 2026-01-13

	include <BOSL2/std.scad>

	/* [Hidden] */

	HoleWindage = 0.2;
	Protrusion = 0.1;
	NumSides = 334;

	$fn=NumSides;

	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	WallThick = 0.6;
	BaseThick = 2.0;

	//DishOA = [80.0,40.0,20.0]; // standing used Dove
	DishOA = [90.0,50.0,30.0]; // standing Dove
	//DishOA = [100.0,65.0,30.0]; // half-bar

	DishTaper = [10.0,10.0];
	CornerRadius = 15.0;

	DrainOA = [10.0,DishOA.y,3.0];
	DrainOC = DishOA.x/3;

	//———-
	// Build it

	difference() {
	union() {
	linear_extrude(BaseThick)
	rect([DishOA.x,DishOA.y] – DishTaper,rounding=CornerRadius);

	rect_tube(DishOA.z,wall=WallThick,
	size1=[DishOA.x,DishOA.y] – DishTaper,size2=[DishOA.x,DishOA.y],
	rounding=CornerRadius,anchor=BOTTOM);
	}

	for (j=[-1,1])
	right(j*DrainOC/2)
	up(BaseThick)
	cuboid(DrainOA,rounding=1.0,anchor=BOTTOM+BACK);
	}

view raw Shower Soap Dish.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2026-01-15

Ortur YRC-1: Petite Chuck Jaws

The standard jaws for the Ortur Rotary loom over small-diameter workpieces:

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - home offset adjustment — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – home offset adjustment

Some measuring and modeling produced petite 3D printed jaws:

Ortur Rotary - printed jaws — Ortur Rotary – printed jaws

Admittedly, those jaws aren’t doing much of anything, but they’re not nearly as much in the way. You (well, I) can screw them in closer to the center to overlap the chuck jaws or another hole outward for slightly larger cylinders.

The solid model looks about the same:

Ortur Rotary Jaws - 2-3 show view — Ortur Rotary Jaws – 2-3 show view

They build face-down with a little support under the screw recesses for a clean fit on the chuck:

Ortur Rotary Jaws - Prusaslicer — Ortur Rotary Jaws – Prusaslicer

Teeny jaws might be handy:

Ortur Rotary Jaws - 2-2 show view — Ortur Rotary Jaws – 2-2 show view

Screwing them in one hole outward lets them grip medium cylinders without sticking out from the chuck jaws:

Ortur Rotary - small printed jaws — Ortur Rotary – small printed jaws

The OpenSCAD code lets you pick which screw holes you want, but it does not error-check the perverse choices.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Ortur Rotary Focus Pad
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
	// 2026-01-04

	include <BOSL2/std.scad>

	Style = "Show"; // [Build,Show,Chuck,ChuckJaw,Jaw]

	InnerScrew = 1; // [0:3]
	OuterScrew = 3; // [2:4]

	/* [Hidden] */


	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;
	Protrusion = 0.1;

	Gap = 5.0;

	NumSides = 834;
	$fn=NumSides;

	WallThick = 2.0;

	ScrewHead = [4.0 + HoleWindage,7.0 + HoleWindage,4.0];

	ChuckOD = 66.0;
	ChuckThick = 10.0;

	ChuckBCR = [3.5,7.5,15.0,22.5,30.0]; // M4 tapped in chuck jaws
	ChuckJawOA = [ChuckOD/2,8.0 + HoleWindage,3.5];

	JawBlock = [0,15.0,2*WallThick + ScrewHead[LENGTH]]; // .x will be variable
	JawRound = 1.0; // tip rounding

	//—–
	// Single chuck jaw with holes

	module ChuckJaw(Holes=true) {

	difference() {
	intersection() {
	cuboid(ChuckJawOA,anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT);
	cyl(ChuckJawOA.z,d=ChuckOD,anchor=BOTTOM);
	linear_extrude(h=ChuckJawOA.z)
	hexagon(od=ChuckOD,rounding=2.0,anchor=LEFT);
	}
	if (Holes)
	for (i = [0:len(ChuckBCR)-1])
	right(ChuckBCR[i])
	down(Protrusion)
	cyl(2*ChuckJawOA.z,d=ScrewHead[ID],anchor=BOTTOM);
	}
	}

	// Chuck layout

	module Chuck(Holes=true) {

	cyl(ChuckThick,d=ChuckOD,anchor=TOP) position(TOP)
	for (a = [0:120:360])
	zrot(a)
	ChuckJaw(Holes);
	}

	// Gripping jaw

	module Jaw(Screws=[1,3]) {

	HoleOC = ChuckBCR[Screws[1]] – ChuckBCR[Screws[0]];
	JawOAL = HoleOC + ScrewHead[OD] + 2*WallThick + (JawBlock.y/2)/cos(30);

	difference() {
	left(JawOAL/2)
	intersection() {
	cuboid(JawBlock + [JawOAL,0,0],anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT);
	linear_extrude(h=JawBlock.z)
	hexagon(od=ChuckOD,rounding=JawRound,anchor=LEFT);
	right(JawOAL)
	linear_extrude(h=JawBlock.z)
	hexagon(od=ChuckOD,rounding=JawRound,anchor=RIGHT);
	}
	right(0*JawOAL/2)
	for (i=[-1,1])
	right(i*HoleOC/2) {
	down(Protrusion)
	cyl(JawBlock.z,d=ScrewHead[ID],anchor=BOTTOM);
	up(2*WallThick)
	cyl(JawBlock.z,d=ScrewHead[OD],anchor=BOTTOM);
	}
	down(Protrusion)
	cuboid([JawOAL,ChuckJawOA.y,WallThick + Protrusion],anchor=BOTTOM);
	}


	}

	//—–
	// Build things

	if (Style == "Chuck") {
	Chuck();
	}

	if (Style == "Show") {
	xrot(180)
	yrot(90) {
	color("Gray",0.8)
	Chuck();
	up(ChuckJawOA.z – WallThick)
	for (a = [0:120:360])
	zrot(a)
	right((ChuckBCR[InnerScrew] + ChuckBCR[OuterScrew])/2)
	Jaw(Screws=[InnerScrew,OuterScrew]);
	}
	}

	if (Style == "ChuckJaw")
	ChuckJaw();

	if (Style == "Jaw") {
	Jaw(Screws=[InnerScrew,OuterScrew]);
	}

	if (Style == "Build")
	for (j=[-1:1])
	fwd(j*(JawBlock.y + Gap))
	up(JawBlock.z) xrot(180)
	Jaw(Screws=[InnerScrew,OuterScrew]);

view raw Ortur Rotary Jaws.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2026-01-09

Ortur YRC-1: Autofocus Pad

Ruida laser controllers do not allow the platform to rise above the U=0 origin set by the autofocus pen = switch. While this isn’t a problem for flat surfaces, focusing on the exact top of a horizontal cylinder, particularly a small rod, may be overly difficult.

So a focusing pad seems like a Good Idea™:

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - focus pen positioning — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – focus pen positioning

The general idea:

Align a flat horizontal surface with the rotary chuck’s axis
Do the autofocus operation with a well-defined landing zone under the pen
The Focus Distance puts the laser head at the proper height for a focused spot on the pad
Jogging the head upward (= platform downward) by the workpiece radius puts the focused spot exactly at the right height
Remove the focus pad
Install the workpiece
Fire The Laser

The solid model:

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - solid model — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – solid model

Features of note:

The chuck jaws fit into the recesses on the left end for a firm grip with good alignment
The lengthwise notch lies on the rotary axis parallel to the laser’s X axis
The crosswise notch is juuust rightward of the chuck jaws, marking the leftmost end of whatever you’re engraving

Because I added a home switch to the Ortur YRC-1 case, Jaw 1 automagically ends up on top after homing, thus automagically making the focus pad horizontal. Getting that right required fine-tuning the rotary’s home switch trip point, which turned out to be easier to do using the Home Offset configuration value after I replaced the cam I thought would work:

Ortur Chuck Rotary home switch - pulley cam — Ortur Chuck Rotary home switch – pulley cam

Instead, a simple M4 setscrew (standing proud of the pulley surface in one of the tapped holes for the real setscrew securing the pulley to the shaft) trips the switch much more repeatably :

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - home trip setscrew — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – home trip setscrew

The setscrew on the right sits flush with the surface to prevent the switch roller from falling into the hole. The real setscrew underneath it locks the pulley to the shaft’s flat.

With that in place, a quick binary search settled on a Y axis Home Offset = 1.75 mm to put the pad level with the top of the rotary’s case, which is Level Enough™ due to my tweaking the machine’s foot elevations after jacking the whole machine up on risers:

The Home Offset value:

The speed and acceleration values are much lower than used with the linear Y axis, because apparently Ruida computes the corresponding step values using the workpiece diameter in the Rotary section. Small diameters produce impossibly fast motions, which suggests they expect you to set the optimum values based on back-calculations from the object diameter; ain’t nobody got time for that.

Anyhow.

After autofocusing, the red-dot pointer now indicates the laser spot position, so jog the X axis and drag the gantry to put the spot on the axis mark:

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - gantry positioning — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – gantry positioning

The orange rim on the red-dot pointer cuts down the beam intensity to make a smaller dot and provides easier position tweaks.

Then jog the X axis to put the dot at the transverse mark just beyond the chuck jaws:

Ortur Rotary Focus Pad - red dot at origin — Ortur Rotary Focus Pad – red dot at origin

Hit the Ruida Origin button to set that as the user origin, so you can reference the LightBurn design to the hardware position.

Move the platform down by the workpiece radius, jog the nozzle along the X axis to get it out of the way, remove the focus pad, install the workpiece, and you’re good to go. The checklist visible beyond the bubble level shows it’s not quite that simple, but we’re getting there.

The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

	// Ortur Rotary Focus Pad
	// Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
	// 2026-01-04

	include <BOSL2/std.scad>

	Style = "Show"; // [Build,Show]

	/* [Hidden] */


	ID = 0;
	OD = 1;
	LENGTH = 2;

	HoleWindage = 0.2;
	Protrusion = 0.1;

	NumSides = 834;
	$fn=NumSides;

	// Magic numbers to fit Ortur jaws

	PadOAL = 60.0; // clear assist air fitting
	PadIR = 7.0; // jaw tip 35 mm above this point
	JawOAL = 14.0; // clear large jaws

	Reticle = [0.7,0.7,PadOAL];
	OriginOffset = 28.0; // X origin from chuck plate


	//—–
	// Pad to give autofocus probe a flat landing zone

	module FocusPad() {

	difference() {
	linear_extrude(PadOAL)
	hexagon(ir=PadIR,realign=true,rounding=3.0);

	up(JawOAL) {
	cube(PadOAL,anchor=BOTTOM+LEFT);
	cube(Reticle,spin=45,anchor=BOTTOM);
	}
	up(OriginOffset)
	cube(Reticle,spin=45,orient=FRONT,anchor=CENTER);

	for (a=[0:120:360])
	rotate(a)
	down(Protrusion)
	linear_extrude(JawOAL + 2*Protrusion)
	right(PadIR + 15 – 2) // eyeball fit
	hexagon(or=15,rounding=0.5);
	}

	}

	//—–
	// Build things

	if (Style == "Show")
	yrot(90)
	zrot(180)
	FocusPad();

	if (Style == "Build")
	FocusPad();

view raw Ortur Rotary Focus Pad.scad hosted with ❤ by GitHub

2026-01-08

Silica Gel Beads: Regeneration Damage

The silica gel beads I’ve been using in the PolyDryer boxes start out a uniform yellow / light brown:

Polydryer Box desiccant tray - top view — Polydryer Box desiccant tray – top view

The humidity indicating chemical seems to be methyl violet, described as changing from yellow to green when saturated, which has never happened here. For example, these beads, retrieved from random corners of the workbench, have been sitting in 40-ish %RH basement air for weeks:

Silica gel beads - 36pctRH ambient — Silica gel beads – 36pctRH ambient

The fragment just left of center looks greenish, but the rest are, at best, various shades of brown. This may be due to the (relatively) low humidity in the basement, but putting them under a damp sponge for a few hours didn’t change their color.

The most recent regeneration session started with an open cast-iron pan on an induction cooktop:

Silica gel beads - drying — Silica gel beads – drying

The variety of browns comes from various amounts of adsorbed water in the PolyDryer boxes, but AFAICT there really isn’t much correlation between the humidity level and the amount of adsorbed water.

The drying process went like this:

650 g at start
50% power for 2 hr → 200 °F
Covered the pan & turned it off overnight
623 g at start
50% power for 2 hr → 220 °F
612 g
50% power for 1 hr → 236 °F
610 g
30% power for 30 min → 205 °F
35% power for 30 min → 200 °F
609 g

So about four hours at 50% power would get all but the laser few grams of water out of the silica gel.

After all that, the beads looked about the same in a white bowl for cooling:

Silica gel beads - damaged indicator dye — Silica gel beads – damaged indicator dye

Each regeneration cycle leaves more dark brown beads in the mix, which may be due to poor temperature control, and they do not return to their original yellow / pale brown shade.

Apparently cooking silica gel beads over 120 °C = 250 °F (various sources give various temperatures) can damage their structure or the methyl violet indicator; for sure some of those beads have been abused.

Unsurprisingly, the bead temperature rises as they dry out. Although the induction cooktop has a temperature control, we’ve found the setting doesn’t match the pan temperature and the overall control is poor. I could set the gas oven to 200 °F, but I’m certain it doesn’t control the temperature all that closely, either.

The original jug held 2 pounds = 907 g of beads. Add the 609 g from this session to the 350 g of allegedly dry beads in seven of the PolyDryer boxes: my regeneration hand is weak.

2026-01-07

Tag: MK4

Prusa MK4 Nozzle Tool Mod

Olive Oil Bottle Cap Covers

Translucent Night Light Light Guide

Translucent Soap Dishes

Ortur YRC-1: Petite Chuck Jaws

Ortur YRC-1: Autofocus Pad

Silica Gel Beads: Regeneration Damage