The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Laser Cutter

  • Laser Cutter: Rotary Stepper Driver

    Laser Cutter: Rotary Stepper Driver

    Having picked up a small rotary intended for Ortur diode laser machines during Black Friday, I knew using it with my OMTech 60 W CO₂ laser wasn’t going to be plug-n-play. The usual connection for a rotary in a CO₂ laser is directly into the stepper motor driver for the Y axis, so the stepper motor in the rotary must handle the same current as the Y axis motor. The OMTech laser has NEMA 23 steppers set for 3.5 A, which would quickly fry the NEMA 17 stepper in the Ortur rotary.

    So the general idea was to run the rotary from another stepper driver set for an amp or so. A separate driver would also let me choose microstep settings more suitable for a rotary.

    A simple SPDT switch enables the appropriate driver:

    Laser Rotary Enable doodle
    Laser Rotary Enable doodle

    NB: Leaving the ENA pins of a stepper driver disconnected enables the motor output and passing current through them disables the motor; why that function was not labeled DISABLE remains a mystery.

    So the switch looks bassakwards, but it connects the -ENA pin of the disabled driver to GND / common, with its +ENA pin tied to the supply.

    Translating that doodle into hardware required drilling holes in what passes for the laser’s front panel:

    Laser Rotary - control switch
    Laser Rotary – control switch

    The new driver stands up in bottom of the electronics bay:

    Laser Rotary - R driver - detail
    Laser Rotary – R driver – detail

    The loose wire over on the left is a remnant of the discovery that the KT332N controller’s General output bits do not behave as expected. While you (well, I) can set their state through the display’s MENU → DIAGNOSES screen, the controller unilaterally slams them low = active while running a job. To be fair, the manual does say “General output, reserved”, but I had to find out the hard way.

    The +ENA terminal comes from the +5V supply, along with the other + terminals. The -ENA terminal goes off to the switch, along with two wires from the existing Y axis stepper driver:

    Laser Rotary - Y driver wiring
    Laser Rotary – Y driver wiring

    The 1.8 kΩ resistor sticks out of a ferrule doubled up in the 24V terminal feeding the driver and connects to a wire into the +ENA terminal. Two wires from the switch connect to the -ENA and GND terminals, join the -ENA wire from the rotary driver, and crawl through the machine to the front panel.

    The new power supply on the far right completes the electronics bay installation:

    Laser Rotary - electronics bay
    Laser Rotary – electronics bay

    Obviously, the wiring situation is completely out of control.

    Up top, though, it looks like it grew there:

    Laser Rotary - on platform
    Laser Rotary – on platform

    Now, to figure out the settings …

  • Laser Cutter: New 24 V Power Supply

    Laser Cutter: New 24 V Power Supply

    Unlike the OEM 24 V supply in the laser, the “new” supply from my heap does not have mounting flanges; it’s intended to be attached to a mounting plate from the back side. It turns out the laser does have a mounting plate with All The Things screwed onto it, but there is no way I am going to disconnect all the wiring just to drill four more holes in that plate.

    So I made a pair of brackets to screw into the back of the supply and then into suitable holes in the mounting plate:

    Laser 24V Power Supply Mount - solid model
    Laser 24V Power Supply Mount – solid model

    Which look like this in real life:

    Laser 24V Power Suppy - mounts installed
    Laser 24V Power Suppy – mounts installed

    Those M4 rivnuts just beg for 6 mm holes in the mounting plate.

    However, it turns out that their unsquished length exceeds the distance behind the panel, which means there’s no way to install them flush to the panel with the proper backside squish.

    So:

    • Loosen the four bolts holding the panel to the machine frame
    • Ease it forward a bit
    • Tuck 6 mm acrylic scraps behind all four corners
    • Snug the bolts again to hold the plate against the acrylic with plenty of room behind it

    The OpenSCAD code generates a simpleminded drill template:

    Laser 24V Power Suppy - drill template
    Laser 24V Power Suppy – drill template

    Press a scrap of rubber firmly against the plate to dampen vibrations and thwack each hole with an automatic center punch set to stun. Deploy a succession of drills up through 6 mm, catching most of the swarf in tape strips:

    Laser 24V Power Suppy - drill chip catchers
    Laser 24V Power Suppy – drill chip catchers

    Squish the rivnuts in place:

    Laser 24V Power Suppy - rivnuts in place
    Laser 24V Power Suppy – rivnuts in place

    The small, vaguely tapped hole on the lower right was the “good” screw for the OEM power supply; the “bad” screw hole is invisible to the upper left, just under the raceway.

    Install the power supply and it looks like it grew there:

    Laser 24V Power Suppy - installed
    Laser 24V Power Suppy – installed

    The wires and Wago connectors scrunched underneath aren’t anything to be proud of, but longer wires didn’t seem likely to improve the outcome.

    The OpenSCAD source code as a GitHub Gist:

    // Mount for 24 V laser power supply
    // Ed Nisley – KE4ZNU
    // 2025-12-07
    include <BOSL2/std.scad>
    Layout = "Show"; // [Show,Build,Guide,Block]
    /* [Hidden] */
    ID = 0;
    OD = 1;
    LENGTH = 2;
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    Protrusion = 0.1;
    NumSides = 2*3*4;
    $fn=NumSides;
    Gap = 5.0;
    Rivnut = [4.0,6.0,9.0]; // body + head OD
    RivnutHead = [6.0,10.0,1.0]; // flat head
    WallThick = 6.0; // a bit more than half rivnut head OD
    SupplyCase = [50.0,215.0,112.0]; // power supply case size
    SupplyOC = [25.0,150.0,0]; // power supply mounting screw centers
    SupplyOffset = -1.0; // the screws are not centered on the case!
    SupplyScrew = [4.0,9.0,4.0]; // … LENGTH outside supply case
    MountOC = SupplyCase.x + 2*WallThick;
    MountScrewLength = 8.0; // … head-to-baseplate
    MountRadius = 0.5;
    BlockOA = [MountOC + 2*WallThick, 2*WallThick, MountScrewLength];
    GuideOD = 2.0;
    //—–
    // Single mounting block
    module MountBlock() {
    difference() {
    cuboid(BlockOA,chamfer=MountRadius,except=BOTTOM,anchor=BOTTOM);
    for (i = [-1,1]) {
    right(i*MountOC/2) {
    cyl(2*RivnutHead[LENGTH],d=RivnutHead[OD],circum=true,anchor=CENTER);
    cyl(2*BlockOA.z,d=Rivnut[ID] + HoleWindage,circum=true,anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    right(i*SupplyOC.x/2 + SupplyOffset) {
    down(SupplyScrew[LENGTH])
    cyl(BlockOA.z,d=SupplyScrew[OD] + HoleWindage,circum=true,anchor=BOTTOM);
    cyl(2*BlockOA.z,d=SupplyScrew[ID] + HoleWindage,circum=true,anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    }
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Guide holes in a 2D layout
    module DrillGuide() {
    difference() {
    square([BlockOA.x,SupplyOC.y + BlockOA.y],center=true);
    for (j=[-1,1])
    fwd(j*SupplyOC.y/2)
    for (i = [-1,1]) {
    right(i*MountOC/2) {
    circle(d=GuideOD);
    }
    }
    }
    }
    //—–
    // Build things
    if (Layout == "Block")
    MountBlock();
    if (Layout == "Guide")
    DrillGuide();
    if (Layout == "Show") {
    for (j=[-1,1])
    fwd(j*SupplyOC.y/2)
    MountBlock();
    color("Gray",0.5)
    up(BlockOA.z)
    cuboid(SupplyCase,anchor=BOTTOM);
    }
    if (Layout == "Build") {
    for (j=[-1,1])
    fwd(j*(BlockOA.y/2 + Gap/2))
    up(BlockOA.z) zflip()
    MountBlock();
    }

  • Laser Cutter: OEM 24 V Power Supply Annoyances

    Laser Cutter: OEM 24 V Power Supply Annoyances

    In the process of replacing the laser cutter’s OEM 24 V 6 A power supply with a 15 A supply, one of the two screws holding it in place remained stuck in the underlying sheet metal plate:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - installed
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – installed

    You can’t see either of the screws from that position, but they’re in the upper-left and lower-right corners. The offending screw is, of course, on the top, tucked between the top of the supply and the wire raceway. The bottom screw came out easily and I could maneuver the supply out of the way.

    Vigorous persuasion involving a bent-nose pliers and muttering got the screw out and revealed the problem:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - stripped screw
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – stripped screw

    The reason why the screwdriver didn’t get much traction in the head also became obvious:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - goobered screw head
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – goobered screw head

    Folks on the LightBurn forum seem astonished when they discover their fresh-from-the-factory has loose screws, missing screws, and occasionally the wrong screws.

    I always wondered where the switch pointed to by the conspicuous label might be:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - voltage label
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – voltage label

    Unlike most supplies, it’s inside the case:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - voltage switch
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – voltage switch

    After you spot it, you can also find it just below the tip of the arrow in the previous picture. I suppose putting it inside the case prevents it from being inadvertently flipped, but somebody had to dismantle All. The. Supplies. to flip that switch for the USA-ian market.

    The dataplate also became visible:

    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy - dataplate
    Laser OEM 24V Power Suppy – dataplate

    You’ll recall the 5 V 2 A output was dedicated to the red-dot pointer drawing about 20 mA.

    In contrast, the 24 V 6 A output handled:

    • X axis stepper driver: 3.5 A peak
    • Y axis stepper driver: 3.5 A peak
    • U axis stepper driver: 5.1 A peak
    • KT332N controller &c: 1 or 2 A
    • Gantry LED strip: 0.25 A

    The stepper drivers are set to drop the motor current by half when they’re idle, which means their load would be only around 6 A. That’s as delivered to the motor windings, with the power supply’s average current being lower by roughly the ratio between the motor’s rated voltage and the power supply voltage. The instantaneous peak current, however, is the sum of all those currents.

    At some point I must measure all that, but for now I want to shoehorn a bigger supply in there to take care of the additional load of the rotary stepper driver, plus the existing platform lighting and improved electronics bay blower.

  • Dryer Vent Filter Snout: More Warping

    Dryer Vent Filter Snout: More Warping

    I have unfairly maligned the TPU snout, because the PETG snout failed the same way:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - warped PETG
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – warped PETG

    Seen with the shock cord in place, it’s obvious that combining moderately high temperature with steady compression sufficed to bend the PETG enough to pop those tabs loose from the vent.

    So the OpenSCAD model now produces a stiffening ring to be laser-cut from acrylic:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - OpenSCAD stiffener
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – OpenSCAD stiffener

    The whole snout builds as a single unit in the obvious orientation:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - V2 - slicer
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – V2 – slicer

    Because the part of the snout with the tabs is 7 mm tall, I glued a 4 mm acrylic ring to a 3 mm ring, with both of them glued to the snout:

    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout - acrylic gluing
    Clothes Dryer Vent Filter Snout – acrylic gluing

    That’s “natural” PETG, which I expected to be somewhat more transparent, but it’s definitely not a dealbreaker.

    Mary will sew up another cheesecloth filter and we’ll see what happens to this setup.

    As the saying goes, “Experience is what you get when you don’t get what you want.”

    Fortunately, living in the future makes it easy to iterate on the design & implementation until experience produces what should have been obvious at the start.

  • OMTech 60 W Laser: Revised Red-Dot Pointer Power

    OMTech 60 W Laser: Revised Red-Dot Pointer Power

    The OMTech 60 W laser has a 24 V + 5 V power supply for the stepper motors and, I had always assumed, the feeble LED strip light on the gantry:

    OMTech 60W laser - OEM lighting
    OMTech 60W laser – OEM lighting

    The stepper motor driver settings, plus a few amps for the controller and suchlike, added up to something over 12 A, far more than the 24 V supply’s 6 A spec should produce. When I added the COB strip lights around the platform, I dropped a 24 V wall wart into the electronics bay to avoid abusing that poor supply:

    OMTech 60W laser - COB LED strips
    OMTech 60W laser – COB LED strips

    For reasons to be described later, it’s now time to upgrade that 24 V power supply to a 15 A supply that’s been on the shelf for far too long. However, it does not have a 5 V output, so it’s also time to figure out how much 5 V power the laser really needs.

    A quick measurement suggested the 5 V output delivered 20 mA to something. After convincing myself the multimeter was working and that the gantry LED strip was still lit, I finally tracked the wire pair to the red-dot pointer:

    OMTech red dot pointer - polarizing filter installed
    OMTech red dot pointer – polarizing filter installed

    Yeah, a whole dual-output power supply for one red-dot laser module.

    Conveniently, the KT332N controller has several 5 V outputs and the LIMIT terminal block even has a GND terminal on the other end:

    KT332N Limit Terminals - OEM
    KT332N Limit Terminals – OEM

    Prying off the hot melt glue, extracting the red-dot pointer wiring from the raceway, crimping ferrules on a couple of jumpers, and deploying a pair of Wago connectors:

    KT332N Limit Terminals - red dot wiring
    KT332N Limit Terminals – red dot wiring

    I am still not accustomed to the color code:

    • Black = signal
    • Brown = power
    • Blue = GND

    But it’s like that and that’s the way it is.

    The red dot lit right up, the gantry LED strip obviously uses 24 V power, and I must shoehorn a slightly larger 24 V supply into the space currently occupied by the old supply.

  • Garden Step2 Seat: Axle Repair

    Garden Step2 Seat: Axle Repair

    The cart in Mary’s Vassar Farm plot returned in need of repair:

    Garden Seat - fractured body
    Garden Seat – fractured body

    Those fractures near the end of the axle let the axle erode the side wall:

    Garden Seat - eroded body
    Garden Seat – eroded body

    This will obviously require some sort of reinforcement on the body holding the axle, but the first challenge involved getting the wheels off the axle:

    Garden Seat - axle cover
    Garden Seat – axle cover

    Some brute force revealed the hub covers snapped over an install-only locking fastener:

    Garden Seat - axle retaining clip
    Garden Seat – axle retaining clip

    More brute force cut those fasteners (a.k.a. star-lock washers) to get the wheels off the axles.

    While contemplating the situation, a box of 606 bearings (as used in the PolyDryer auto-rewind spindles) failed to scamper out of the way and produced a victim fitting perfectly on the 8 mm axle:

    Garden Seat - bearing idea
    Garden Seat – bearing idea

    I regard such happenstance as a message from the Universe showing I’m on the right track. The alert reader will note the axle should not rotate, but does sport scars showing it’s done some turning in the recent past, so the bearing may not be a completely Bad Idea™.

    Finding a Lexan snippet exactly as thick as the bearing suggested bolting a plate across the side of the body to support the bearing, like this:

    Garden Seat - reinforcing plate installed
    Garden Seat – reinforcing plate installed

    Some layout work in LightBurn produced a template to mark the body for hand-drilling the holes:

    Garden Seat - drill marking template
    Garden Seat – drill marking template

    In retrospect, that was a mistake. I should have:

    • Laser-cut an MDF sheet to make a drill jig
    • Drilled one hole and inserted a screw
    • Drilled the rest of the holes in exactly the right places

    Instead, three of the holes in that nice Lexan sheet ended up slightly egg-shaped to adjust for mis-drilled holes in the body.

    Lexan does not laser-cut well at all, so that sheet was drilled to suit after using the template to mark the holes:

    Garden Seat - plate drilling
    Garden Seat – plate drilling

    Then it got bandsawed / belt-sanded into shape.

    I squeezed 5 mm rivnuts into whatever fiber-reinforced plastic they used for the body, which worked better than I expected. They’re intended for sheet metal, so I set the tool for 5 mm compression and they seem secure. I hope using plenty of screws across a large plate will diffuse the stress on each screw.

    Then I threaded the axles and used acorn nuts:

    Garden Seat - repaired axle installed
    Garden Seat – repaired axle installed

    In this situation, I regard JB KwikWeld epoxy as “removable with some effort”, as opposed to the destruction required with those star-lock washers. High-strength Locktite might also be suitable, but I do not anticipate ever having to remove these again for any reason and do not want the nuts to fall off in the garden.

    The re-replaced seat conjured from a cafeteria tray continues to work fine, as do its 3D printed hinges.

    It’ll reside in the shed until Spring rolls around …

  • Hens and Chicks Coasters

    Hens and Chicks Coasters

    Mary’s Hens and Chicks gardening group is having a White Elephant gift swap, where one can get rid of anything vaguely garden-related without repercussions, so I ran off a set of eponymous coasters for practice:

    Hens and Chicks Coasters - overview
    Hens and Chicks Coasters – overview

    They’re 3 mm laser plywood with English Chestnut stain and satin polyurethane sealant, with PSA cork on the underside. Even if (IMO) the stain came out too dark on some of them, they’re perfectly suited for the occasion.

    Coasters need a storage case:

    Hens and Chicks Coasters - case
    Hens and Chicks Coasters – case

    That’s 1.5 mm Trocraft Eco, which is AFAICT really nice chipboard, with a box layout from boxes.py.

    The image comes from The New Garden Encyclopedia, a fine source of classic images and outdated advice.