Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.
Tag: Improvements
Making the world a better place, one piece at a time
Having managed to mislay my dingy yellow kickstand plate, I made two more and this time hit ’em with fluorescent red paint. Ought to be unforgettable for another few years…
In theory, you’re supposed to apply a white undercoat. I hosed ’em down with many drippy, runny coats of red and it’s all good. This ain’t art and they get thrown on the ground, so what’s the point of being fancy?
The backside of the Lenovo N5901 Mini Wireless Keyboard (which arrived with the aforementioned Q150) has a black-on-black power switch with ON and OFF legends (yes, I think they’re backwards, too) embossed in the matte black case: under anything less intense than enhanced interrogation lighting, you (well, I) can’t determine the switch position.
Of course, the myriad certifications / ratings / labels required for compliance with all the regulations are perfectly legible:
Lenovo Mini Keyboard – enhanced labels
Working a dab of white correction fluid into the letters makes them blindingly obvious; the smudges around the letters will wear off in short order.
I should probably add a bit of white to the switch background as well.
It turns out that an ordinary carbide glass drill works just fine on glazed clay pots. Use a low RPM and very slow feed, flood the scene with water, and drill from the other side after the point breaks through.
Glass drill for plant pot hole
The glaze inside the pot already had a flaw that let the water into the clay, from whence it seeped out through the unglazed lower rim. I suppose saturating the clay can’t possibly be good, but I’ve done this to many glazed pots over the years and none of them have ever complained, so it’s all good.
Our Craftsman lawn mower has both a deadman grip for the motor (the Operator Presence Control Bar) and a Drive Control Lever that engages the rear wheel drive. The latter requires a death grip to keep the belt engaged, which means you (well, I) spend about two hours clenching the grip.
Lawn mower – compound leverage handle
I’ve long since flipped the control to the left side and added thick foam padding, but there’s no adjustment that reduces the death-grip requirement: you can change the engagement distance, not the spring constant.
Evidently the Sears engineers have much stronger hands than anyone in our family.
The doodad hose-clamped to the upright part of the mower handle is a basically a hinge that applies force to the tip of the red handle. The hinge axis lies far enough from the handle’s pivot so that holding the hinge against the handle requires very little force; at least it’s no longer a death grip.
Lawn mower – compound leverage handle engaged
It’s not an ideal solution, but it engages and (more importantly) disengages easily. I still don’t like mowing the lawn, but at least I don’t return with a crippled-up hand.
The hinge is actually a lock hasp, so it has a slot that slides neatly over the Drive Control Lever’s tab. I beat both sides into a more-or-less cylindrical form over a piece of pipe, while miraculously not bending the hinge pin.
Evidently the Sears engineers never actually used the damn mower for two hours at a time.
Although those pink clamp platesworked well enough, they did not provide, shall we say, a completely satisfactory user experience. I reprinted new sets in red while varying the extruder speed by 0.1 rev/min, with small tweaks to the overlap between the infill and the loop threads.
First, the big pictures with details scrawled on the back of the lower plate…
At 3.2 rpm, which is only slightly too fast:
Fairing Plate – 3.2 rpm
At 3.3 rpm, a bit overstuffed:
Fairing Plate – 3.3 rpm
At 3.4 rpm, there’s obviously too much plastic:
Fairing Plate – 3.4 rpm
Some closeups, in the same order…
At 3.2 rpm with 0.20 overlap, it looks OK:
Fairing Plate – 3.2 rpm detail
At 3.3 rpm with 0.25 overlap, which pretty much devours the inner loop thread:
Fairing Plate – 3.3 rpm detail
At 3.4 rpm with 0.25 overlap there’s serious overfill:
Fairing Plate – 3.4 rpm detail
In all cases, the extruder left a track while exiting upward from near the middle of the images. Even at 3. 2 rpm there’s slightly too much plastic.
My ladies don’t care about the fine details. They prefer red to pink and the clamps hold the fairings firmly in place…
Another one of those LED ring lights wound up in the Thing-O-Matic, affixed to the underside of the Z stage with double-sticky foam tape. You can see the whole ring reflected in that picture, but the front third of the ring obscured what the nozzle was doing.
So I sawed out one of the three-LED strings to open a gap:
LED ring light with gap
Unfortunately, the designers arranged things so that the ballast resistor for each string sits directly above the last LED of the adjacent string. The white wire you can barely see connects the ballast resistor that drove the now-missing string on the left to the via feeding the first string on the right.
It now fits around the extruder with the gap exactly matching the opening in front of the Thermal Core.
LED ring light installed
Power comes from a screw terminal connector I hacked into the 4-pin block that used to be part of the 20+4-pin ATX power block at the Motherboard. There’s a length of overly stout 4-wire cable leading to a kludged not-a-connector made of square pins and heatshrink tubing jammed into the block.
TOM auxiliary power connector
It provides +12, +5, +3.3 V, and ground for the fan and LED lighting.
Most of the light in that last picture comes from LED strips on either side of the front opening. My Shop Assistant won a meter of warm-white LEDs at the 3rd Ward Make-a-Thon [Update: dead link. Try their pix from the event.] and graciously allowed me to chop off two 6-LED strips for a good cause.