The Smell of Molten Projects in the Morning

Ed Nisley's Blog: Shop notes, electronics, firmware, machinery, 3D printing, laser cuttery, and curiosities. Contents: 100% human thinking, 0% AI slop.

Tag: Improvements

Making the world a better place, one piece at a time

  • ARRL Hands-On Radio Column Tabulation

    Having been unable to find a single listing of all the ARRL Hands-On Radio columns(*) by Ward Silver, N0AX, in QST magazine, I scraped their lists, did some cleanup, and roughly categorized each column’s topic. If you want to bootstrap yourself (or someone you know) from zero to pretty good, he can get you there!

    [Update: (*) You must be an ARRL member to access the collection, but you need not hold an amateur radio license…]

    Exp Title DC Audio Digital Power RF Theory
    1 The Common-Emitter Amplifier x x x x
    2 The Emitter-Follower Amplifier x x x x
    3 Basic Operational Amplifiers x x x
    4 Active Filters x x
    5 The Integrated Timer x
    6 Rectifiers and Zener References x x
    7 Voltage Multipliers x x
    8 The Linear Regulator x x
    9 Designing Drivers x x x x
    10 Using SCRs x x
    11 Comparators x x x x
    12 Field Effect Transistors x x x x x x
    13 Attenuators x x x
    14 Optocouplers x x x
    15 Switchmode Regulators, Part 1 x x
    16 Switchmode Regulators, Part 2 x x
    17 The Phase-Shift Oscillator x x x
    18 Frequency Response x x x
    19 Current Sources x x x
    20 The Differential Amplifier x x
    21 The L-Network x x
    22 Stubs x x
    23 Open House in the N0AX Lab
    24 Heat Management x x
    25 Totem Pole Outputs x x x x
    26 Solid-State RF Switches x
    27 Scope Tricks x x x x x x
    28 The Common Base Amplifier x x x x
    29 Kirchhoff’s Laws x x x
    30 The Charge Pump x x x x
    31 The Multivibrator x x x
    32 Thevenin Equivalents x
    33 The Transformer x x x x
    34 Technical References x
    35 Power Supply Analysis x x x
    36 The Up-Down Counter x
    37 Decoding for Display x
    38 Battery Charger x x
    39 Battery Charger, Part 2 x x
    40 VOX x
    41 Damping Factor x x x
    42 Notch Filters x x x
    43 RF Oscillators, Part 1 x x
    44 RF Oscillators, Part 2 x x
    45 RF Amplifiers, Part 1 x x x
    46 Two Cs: Crystal and Class x x
    47 Toroids x x
    48 Baluns x x
    49 Reading and Drawing Schematics x
    50 Filter Design 1 x x x
    51 Filter Design 2 x x x
    52 SWR Meters x
    53 RF Peak Detector x x x
    54 Precision Rectifiers x x
    55 Current/Voltage Converters x x x x
    56 Design Sensitivities x
    57 Double Stubs x
    58 Double Stubs II x
    59 Smith Chart Fun I x x
    60 Smith Chart Fun 2 x x
    61 Smith Chart Fun 3 x x
    62 About Resistors x x x x
    63 About Capacitors x x x x
    64 Waveforms and Harmonics x x x x x
    65 Spectrum Modification x x x
    66 Mixer Basics x x x x
    67 The Return of the Kit
    68 Phase Locked Loops, the Basics x x x x
    69 Phase Locked Loops, Applications x x x
    70 Three-Terminal Regulators x x x
    71 Circuit Layout x x x x x x
    72 Return Loss and S-Parameters x x
    73 Choosing an Op Amp x x x
    74 Resonant Circuits x x x
    75 Series to Parallel Conversion x x
    76 Diode Junctions x x x
    77 Load Lines x x x x
    78 Bridge Circuits x x x
    79 Pi and T Networks x x x
    80 Battery Capacity x x x
    81 Synchronous Transformers x x
    82 Antenna Height x x
    83 Circuit Simulation, Part One x x x x x x
    83 Circuit Simulation, Build and Test x x x x x x
    85 Circuit Simulation, Complex Parts x x x x x x
    86 Viewing Waveforms in LTspice x x x x x
    87 Elsie Filter Design, Part 1 x x
    88 Elsie Filter Design, Part 2 x x
    89 Overvoltage Protection x x x x
    90 Construction Techniques x x x x
    91 Common Mode Choke x x x
    92 The 468 Factor x x
    93 An LED AM Modulator x
    94 SWR and Transmission Line Loss x x
    95 Watt’s In a Waveform? x x x x x
    96 Open Wire Transmission Lines x
    97 Programmable Frequency Reference x x x
    98 Linear Supply Design x x x
    99 Cascode Amplifier x x x x
    100 Hands-On Hundred
    101 Rotary Encoders x
    102 Detecting RF, Part 1 x x x x
    103 Detecting RF, Part 2 x x x x
    104 Words to Watch For x
    105 Gain-Bandwidth Product x x x x
    106 Effects of Gain-Bandwidth Product x x x
    107 PCB Layout, Part 1 x x x x x x
    108 PCB Layout, Part 2 x x x x x x
    109 PCB Layout, Part 3 x x x x x x
    110 PCB Layout, Part 4 x x x x x x
    111 Coiled-Coax Chokes x
    112 RFI Hunt x x
    113 Radiation Patterns x x
    114 Recording Signals x x
    115 All About Tapers x x
    116 The Quarter-Three-Quarter Wave Balun x
    117 Laying Down the Laws x
    118 The Laws at Work x
    119 The Q3Q Balun Redux x
    120 Power Polarity Protection x x

    Corrections, amendations, commentary? Let me know…

  • Tea Ball Revivial: Bleaching

    As promised, pix of the tea ball bleaching process (it’s plant pot bleaching time again). Before:

    Tea ball – before bleaching

    And After a few minutes in a 10% bleach solution:

    Tea ball – after bleaching

    The pix don’t do it justice; the thing comes out looking like new. Every half-year, like clockwork!

    Of course, one could argue that tea does even worse things to my interior, but …

  • Peltier Module PWM Frequency

    The tech reviewer for my Circuit Cellar columns on the MOSFET tester commented that the 32 kHz PWM frequency I used for the Peltier module temperature controller was much too high:

    Peltier Noise - VDS - PWM Shutdown
    Peltier Noise – VDS – PWM Shutdown

    He thought something around 1 Hz would be more appropriate.

    Turns out we were both off by a bit. That reference suggests a PWM frequency in the 300-to-3000 Hz range. The lower limit avoids thermal cycling effects (the module’s thermal time constant is much slower) and, I presume, the higher limit avoids major losses from un-snubbed transients (they still occur, but with a very low duty cycle).

    Peltier Turn-Off Transient
    Peltier Turn-Off Transient

    The Peltier PWM drive comes from PWM 10, which uses Timer 1. The VDS and ID setpoints come from PWM 11 and PWM 3, respectively, which use Timer 2. So I can just not tweak the Timer 1 PWM frequency, take the default 488 Hz, and it’s all good. That ever-popular post has the frequency-changing details.

    I’d still use a snubber:

    Peltier Drain - 82 ohm 3.9 nF snubber
    Peltier Drain – 82 ohm 3.9 nF snubber
  • Propane Tank QD Adapter Tool

    Although it’s common practice to exchange your empty 20 pound propane tank for a full one, I vastly prefer to keep my own tanks: I know where they’ve been, how they’ve been used, and can be reasonably sure they don’t have hidden damage. Two of my tanks have old-style threaded connections, but the barby has a quick-disconnect fitting on the regulator and I’ve been using an adapter on those tanks.

    The adapter comes with a plastic tool that you use to install it in the tank valve. In principle, you insert the tool into the adapter, thread the adapter into the valve, then tighten with a wrench until the neck of the plastic tool snaps, at which point you eject the stub and the adapter becomes permanently installed. I don’t like permanent, so I carefully tightened the adapter to the point where the O-ring seals properly and the tool didn’t quite break. I’ve always wanted a backup tool, just in case the original broke, and now I have one:

    Propane QD Adapter Tool - in adapter
    Propane QD Adapter Tool – in adapter

    It fit into both the adapter body and the 5/8 inch wrench (the OEM tool is 9/16 inch) without any fuss at all:

    Propane QD Adapters - OEM and printed
    Propane QD Adapters – OEM and printed

    The solid model has a few improvements over the as-printed tool above:

    • Shorter wrench flats
    • More durable protrusions to engage the locking balls
    Propane QD Adapter Tool
    Propane QD Adapter Tool

    It took about an hour to design and another 45 minutes to print, so it’s obviously not cost-effective. I’ll likely never print another, but maybe you will.

    The OpenSCAD source code:

    // Propane tank QD connector adapter tool
    // Ed Nisley KE4ZNU November 2012
    
    include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/MCAD/units.scad>
    include </mnt/bulkdata/Project Files/Thing-O-Matic/Useful Sizes.scad>
    
    //- Extrusion parameters must match reality!
    //  Print with +1 shells and 3 solid layers
    
    ThreadThick = 0.25;
    ThreadWidth = 2.0 * ThreadThick;
    
    HoleWindage = 0.2;
    
    function IntegerMultiple(Size,Unit) = Unit * ceil(Size / Unit);
    
    Protrusion = 0.1;			// make holes end cleanly
    
    //----------------------
    // Dimensions
    
    WrenchSize = (5/8) * inch;		// across the flats
    WrenchThick = 10;
    
    NoseDia = 8.6;
    NoseLength = 9.0;
    
    LockDia = 12.5;
    LockRingLength = 1.0;
    LockTaperLength = 1.5;
    
    TriDia = 15.1;
    TriWide = 12.2;										// from OD across center to triangle side
    TriOffset = TriWide - TriDia/2;		// from center to triangle side
    TriLength = 9.8;
    
    NeckDia = TriDia;
    NeckLength = 4.0;
    
    //----------------------
    // Useful routines
    
    module PolyCyl(Dia,Height,ForceSides=0) {			// based on nophead's polyholes
    
    Sides = (ForceSides != 0) ? ForceSides : (ceil(Dia) + 2);
    
    FixDia = Dia / cos(180/Sides);
    
    cylinder(r=(FixDia + HoleWindage)/2,
    h=Height,
    	   $fn=Sides);
    }
    
    module ShowPegGrid(Space = 10.0,Size = 1.0) {
    
    Range = floor(50 / Space);
    
    	for (x=[-Range:Range])
    	  for (y=[-Range:Range])
    		translate([x*Space,y*Space,Size/2])
    		  %cube(Size,center=true);
    
    }
    
    //-------------------
    // Build it...
    
    $fn = 4*6;
    
    ShowPegGrid();
    
    union() {
    
    	translate([0,0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength - LockTaperLength - LockRingLength + Protrusion)])
    		cylinder(r1=NoseDia/2,r2=LockDia/2,h=LockTaperLength);
    
    		translate([0,0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength - LockRingLength)])
    		cylinder(r=LockDia/2,h=LockRingLength);
    
    	difference() {
    		union() {
    
    			translate([0,0,WrenchThick/2])
    				cube([WrenchSize,WrenchSize,WrenchThick],center=true);
    
    			cylinder(r=TriDia/2,h=(WrenchThick + NeckLength +TriLength));
    
    			cylinder(r=NoseDia/2,h=(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength + NoseLength));
    		}
    
    		for (a=[-1:1]) {
    			rotate(a*120)
    				translate([(TriOffset + WrenchSize/2),0,(WrenchThick + NeckLength + TriLength/2 + Protrusion/2)])
    					cube([WrenchSize,WrenchSize,(TriLength + Protrusion)],center=true);
    		}
    	}
    }
    
  • 30 Year Clock: The Janus Movement

    After 30 years, IBM gave Mary a commemorative clock, after which she promptly retired. Back in the day, they used to hand out Atmos clocks (admittedly, on more momentous occasions), but this isn’t one of those. In fact, although it appears to have a torsion pendulum, that’s a separate motor-driven foo-foo which we immediately turned off:

    Janus Clock - front
    Janus Clock – front

    It normally sits on the living room coffee table (which actually holds a myriad plants next to the front window) where, after we scrapped all the upholstered furniture, the two of us can’t both see the clock face from our chairs. Having a spare clock insert from that repair, we had the same bright idea at the same time: we need a clock with two faces! We came up with Janus independently…

    Despite its fancy appearance, the IBM clock consists mostly of brass and plastic, so I had no qualms about having my way with it in the shop. The new clock insert spanned the clock’s gilt plastic back cover, needing only a #1 drill hole for the adjustment stem, and exactly filled the available space between the back cover and the case. Both movements had enough interior clearance for 3-48 brass screw heads and nuts, so I eyeballed the right spots on the new cover, centered the Sherline spindle on the plate, and drilled two clearance holes 6 mm in from the edges on the vertical diameter:

    Drilling clock insert cover
    Drilling clock insert cover

    That put them 61.3 mm apart across the diameter, which would be awkward to duplicate by hand. Manual CNC makes it trivially easy to match-drill holes; I clamped down the gilt back cover from the IBM clock, aligned it to the table, located the center, and drilled two 3-48 clearance holes:

    Drilling torsion clock cover
    Drilling torsion clock cover

    The glow from that polycarbonate packing block isn’t quite so nuclear in real life. The clamping force goes down the side panels of the cover, which had enough of a curve to be perfectly stable. Yes, I’m drilling into air, but came down real slow using the Joggy Thing and it was all good.

    Assemble the two back covers (the holes matched perfectly), mark the adjustment stem hole, disassemble, hand-drill, reassemble, tighten nuts, and install:

    Janus Clock - rear
    Janus Clock – rear

    It does look a bit lumpy from the side, but that’s just because I don’t have any gilding for the black tape wrap:

    Janus Clock - side
    Janus Clock – side

    There, now, that was easy.

  • Thing-O-Matic: Cable Control

    The alert reader will have noticed two slip faults in the jellyfish cookie cutter:

    Jellyfish Cookie Cutter - on build platform
    Jellyfish Cookie Cutter – on build platform

    Look closely…

    • Above the wide lip, to the right (+X)
    • Below the top edge, to the front (-Y)

    Those failures came from two separate cable snags that stalled the X and Y stepper motors for about 1 mm of travel. Fortunately, I wasn’t paying attention and, by the time I figured this out, the thing was nearly built, so I let it run to completion. The thick base plate accounts for most of the plastic, anyway.

    First, the cable bundle on the right snagged on the socket-head cap screw just in front of the X axis limit switch (hidden behind the bundle here). This picture, taken after the +12 V pin in the HBP connector burned through, shows the typical snarl of wires inside a Thing-O-Matic:

    Thing-O-Matic - HBP cable routing
    Thing-O-Matic – HBP cable routing

    The rewired thermistor cable snagged on the bulldog clip holding the top aluminum plate. This picture, taken after the thermistor pads fell off the HBP, shows the filler plate I put in place to prevent the cable (entering from the top and passing below the white cable on the HBP) from jamming in the gap between the Y axis stage and the case, but you can see how the bulldog clip handle could snag it when the platform moves rearward from the front left corner (+X +Y):

    HBP Thermistor cable - snag shield and bulldog clamp
    HBP Thermistor cable – snag shield and bulldog clamp

    The fat gray cable flat against the case in that picture carries the X axis stepper drive signals up-and-over the Y axis. The thinner gray thermistor cable emerges from the electronics bay inside the case corner, then arches in from thetop.

    My buddy Aitch recently gave me a few meters of corrugated wire loom, so I moved the bulldog clip rearward and bundled all those loose HBP wires in one tidy snood:

    Thing-O-Matic - X axis cable loom
    Thing-O-Matic – X axis cable loom

    I’m sure something else will go wrong, but the machinery looks marginally less haphazard and the cables don’t snag while I’m watching…

  • Ed’s High-Traction Pizza

    Our Larval Engineer, evidently planning to serve some genuine home-style pizza to her compadres, asked for the Official Recipe.

    It goes a little something like this…

    T minus 2.5 hours

    Blend (manually!) in mixer bowl:

    • 1 Tbsp    yeast (that’s two packets = crazy spendy → buy in bulk)
    • 1 Tbsp    brown sugar (or whatever sweet you have)
    • 1-1/2 C    warm water (1 minute in our microwave)

    Add on top of liquid:

    • 3 C    whole wheat flour
    • 1 C    white flour
    • 1 tsp    salt

    The original recipe called for:

    • 4 Tbsp    olive oil (or safflower, not vegetable / canola)
    • 1/2 C    additional flour only if you add oil

    Don’t stir, just pause 5 minutes until the yeast gets up & running.

    Run mixer until dough becomes rubbery and cleans the bowl.

    No mixer? Stir, stir, stir, then knead, knead, knead.

    Ed & Karen kneading bread dough - Raleigh 1995-ish
    Ed & Karen kneading bread dough – Raleigh 1995-ish

    (As you can see, she has experience kneading bread…)

    Cleave in twain, about 1 lb per lump.
    Oil mixer bowl & one lump, let rise.
    Flatten other lump in plastic bag & freeze for next week.

    Put 1 unit homebrew pizza sauce on counter to thaw.

    T minus 45 minutes

    Roll crust to fit pan, generously flour bottom, let rise on countertop.

    Grate cheese:

    • 2 oz    Sharp Provolone
    • 2 oz    Mozzarella
    • 3 oz    Monterey Jack

    Cube meat:

    • 2 oz    Ham
    • 4 oz    Turkey / pork / what have you

    Chop veggies:

    • handful    Broccoli tips (save stalks for tomorrow’s stir fry)
    • 1/2             Sweet pepper (Green / red)
    • 3                 Bunching onions (or small scallions, whatever)
    • 1 big          Mushroom (or 4 tiddly buttons)

    T minus 15 minutes

    Fire the Oven! to 500 F

    Flour bottom of crust, flop on pan
    Spread pizza sauce generously over crust, counter, walls, self
    Distribute meat / veggies
    Top with cheese

    Slide onto middle shelf of oven
    Set timer to 10 minutes if preheated, 12 minutes if not quite hot yet

    Clean utensils / counter / walls / self

    T minus zero

    Remove from oven (top should be brown & bubbling)
    Pause for coagulation
    Cut
    Distribute
    Nom on!

    The original recipe was about the same, plus foo-foo steps like putting oil in the dough, spreading cornmeal on the pan, oiling the crust before applying the sauce, and suchlike. You’ll need the book for all the details:

    The Complete Book of Pizza
    Louise Love
    Sassafras Press
    1980 (grin)

    I’m sure something different has come along in the last third of a century, but you’ll never hear it from me. Mostly, build a few, tweak the ingredients to suit your style / what’s on hand, and it’ll be all good.

    Enjoy…